IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

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illustrent  la  m6thode. 


by  errata 
Tied  to 

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une  pelure, 
fapon  A 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

Ely''  I'v.I  f  nulire 


H  f^  H  The  F^-^ince  oe  Wales 


trtt«>*il  a(<Liltlit^h>4L*rrf  (o>^'m&Aj  IBbil  L|  M   r^  lS[i  Allr  >'•  (fiaUviki,  |Hiu„t  <*\vt<  -i'  .1  ■iiu'(atf*<*  tini"<»"i  "i^v,/ ^n  Hj>t- 


ROYALTY  m  THE  I^EW  WORLD; 


OR,  THE 


BY 

KINAHAN    CORNWALLIS. 


liong  may  the  Prince  abide, 
England's  hope,  joy,  and  prldo ; 

Long  livo  the  Prince  ; 
May  England's  future  king, 
Victoria's  virtues  bring 
To  grace  his  reign— 

God  sare  the  Prinoe. 


NEW    YORK: 

M.  DOOLADY,   49  WALKER  STREET. 

18  60. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1860,  hj 

KINAHAN    CORNWALLIS, 

In  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the  United  States,  for  the  Southern 

District  of  New  York. 


THOMAS  HOLMAN,  PRINTER, 

CORNER  OF  CE.VTRB    AND  VrHTTE  OTKBKI9,  N.   T 


PREFACE  BY  THE  AUTHOR. 


My  great  aim  in  the  composition  of  this  panorama 
of  the  tour  of  His  Royal  Highness  the  Prince  of 
Wales  was  accuracy — to  convey  a  true  idea  of  the 
progress  of  the  greatest  and  most  auspicious  event 
of  the  age  ;'  and  as  I  personally  saw  more  of  the 
scenes  tlierein  depicted  than  any  other  individual, 
not  of  the  royal  suite,  I  feel  myself  entitled  to  speak  ; 
and  this  I  have  done  from  my  own  impartial  convic- 
tions, founded  on  those  observations,  and  not  heai'- 
say. 

My  connection  with  the  Kew  York  Herald,  with 
which  journal  I  was  in  constant  con  ?spondence 
throughout  the  tour,  procured  me  facilities  for  observ- 
ation which,  under  other  circumstances,  I  could  not 
have  enjoyed,  and  I  think  it  proper  to  mention  that  I 
have  here  freely  availed  myself  of  my  letters  so  pub- 
lished. 

That  the  work  may  be  considered  an  acceptable 
addition  to  the  literature  of,  not  only  history,  but 
travel,  is  my  not  inglorious  wish. 

KINAHAN  CORNWALLIS. 


November,  1860. 


f- 

?* 


SYNOPTICAL    VIEW 


OF 


|.  g.  |.  i\t  $xm  of  Males'  four  in  ^mtitz 


1860. 

July  10. 

"     26, 
Aug.    2, 

"       7, 


IKAVK  1860. 

Plymouth,  England,. . .  July  23, 

St.  John's,  N.  F., "     30, 

Halifax Aug.    2, 

St.  John's,  N.  B., "       9, 


AnBIVE  AT 


Miles. 


<( 
It 

ti 

« 


11. 
13, 
20, 

23, 
29, 


Charlottotown,. 

Gaspe, 

Quebec, 


Quebec, . 
Montreal, 


u 

12, 

u 

15, 

<( 

20, 

(< 

24, 

(< 

30,  Montreal, 


« 


"     31, 
Sept.    3, 
6, 
7, 
10, 
13, 
15, 
18, 
18. 
20, 

21, 
22. 
25, 


<( 

<( 
(• 

(( 
(( 
(I 


(I 


il 
ii 
l( 
<i 
(( 
« 
l< 
l( 


Montreal, Sept.    1 

Ottawa, 

Kingston, 

Cobourg, 

Toronto, 

Collingwood, 

London, 

Niagara, 

Queenston, 

Hamilton, 

Detroit, 

Chicago, 

Dwight, 


<< 
<( 
(( 
(( 

<< 

<( 

(( 

H 
<( 
(t 


4 
6 
7 
10 
1?. 
15 
18 
18 
20 
21 
22 
25 


27, 
29, 
Oct.     2, 
"       3, 


Dwight, "  27 

St.  Louis, "  29 

Cincinnati, Oct.  2 

Harrisburg, *'  3 


5,  Washington, 


6,  Washington 

8,  Richmond, 

9,  Baltimore, 

11,  Philadelphia, 

15,  New  York, 

16,  West  Point, 

17,  Albany, 

20.  Boston, 

20,  Portland  for  England,. 

Total  distance  traveled. 


« 

« 

<< 


G 
8 
9 
11 
15 
16 
17 
20 


St.  John's.  N.  F — 

Halifax,  N.S 900 

St.  John's,  N.  B.,..  120 
Charlottetown,    P. 

E.  I., 250 

Gaspe, 200 

Quebec,  C.  E 650 

Chaudiere       Falls 

and  back 30 

Montreal,  C.  W.,  170 
Chaughnawaga  and 

back, 180 

Sherbrooke       and 

back, 50 

Ottawa 180 

Kingston 101 

Cobourg, 90 

Toronto, 70 

Collingwood, 95 

London, 25 

Niagara  Falls, 126 

Quecnston, 10 

Hamilton 25 

Detroit,  Mich., 150 

Chicago,  111., 284 

Dwight, 70 

Stewart's      Grove 

and  back 30 

St.  Louis,  Mo......  212 

Cincinnati,  O.,. . . .  340 

Harrisburg,  Pa.,. . .  615 
Washington,     via 

Baltimore, 123 

Mount  Vernon  and 

back 34 

Richmond,  Va.,. . .  130 

Baltimore,  Md., . . .  150 

Philadelphia, 98 

New  York 90 

West  Point, 61 

Albany, 99 

Boston,  Mass., 200 

Portland,  Me., 187 


6134 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAQK. 

Introductory, 1 

CHAPTER  H. 

Enthusiastic  Reception  at  St.  John's— Processions,  Levees,  Pres- 
entations, Illuminations,  Addresses,  and  Universal  Rejoicings 
— Royalty  and  Loyalty  T^te-k-t^te— Scenes  and  Incidents 
During  the  Prince's  Stay— The  Departure  for  Halifax— The 
Halt  at  Sidney—A  Unique  Celebration 17 

CHAPTER  III. 

Arrival  at  Halilx— Grand  Military  and  Civic  Display— The 
Prince  Welcomed  by  the  Indians, 34 

CHAPTER  IV. 

The  Feeling  of  the  People  in  Regard  to  the  Visit  of  the  Prince — 
His  Social  Powers  and  Love  of  the  Humorous — The  Royal 
Quarters  on  Board  the  Hero — His  Acquaintance  with  Foreign 
Languages — Personnel  of  his  Suite — His  Arrival  and  Enthusi- 
astic Reception  by  the  People — A  Visit  to  the  Indians, 47 

CHAPTER  V. 

The  River  St.  John — Variety  and  Beauty  of  its  Scenery— The 
.  Reception  at  Fredericton — Enthusiasm  and  Loyal  Demonstra- 
tions of  the  People  there — ^Visit  to  the  Cathedral — Sermon  by 
the  Bishop — Visit  to  the  Indian  Encampment— Opening  of  a 
New  Park  under  the  Auspices  of  the  Prince — Excessive  Heat 
of  the  Day — Ball  in  the  Evening — A  young  Lady  throws  the 
Prince  a  Bouquet,  which  he  stoops  to  pick  up — Race  on  the 
River  between  Indian  Canoes— How  the  Prince  received  the 
Intelligence  of  his  Sister's  Accouchement,  etc., 55 


I  m 


Vlll 


rONTKNTS. 


(JIIAITKU  VI. 


General  Holiday  and  Rejoicing  of  tho  People -Appearance  of 
the  City  of  St.  Joiin's  after  the  rriiice'n  Departure— Dinner 
to  the  Ileprescutatives  of  the  Press — From  St.  John's  to 
Shediac — View  of  Prince  Edward's  Island— Facts  Concerning 
the  Island — The  Way  in  which  it  was  Discovered — Scenes  on 
a  crowded  Steamboat — Scarcity  of  Hotel  Accommodation — 
Grand  Illumination,  etc., 60 

CIIAP'^ER  VII. 

Incidents  on  a  Journey  from  Shediac— Crowded  State  of  tho 
Steamers — Appearance  of  Gaspe — Picturesque  Scenery  on  the 
Rivers — The  Ships  of  tho  Royal  Squadron — Address  from  the 
People  of  Gaspc — Dispatches  for  the  young  Prince  from  his 
Father,  Mother,  and  the  Princess  of  Prussia,  etc.,  etc., 07 


CHAPTER  VIIT. 
Excurfcion  to  meet  the  Prince, 


70 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Pictorial  Glimpses  of  the  Prince's  Travels — Movements  on  the 
River  Saguenay — The  Prince  as  a  Fisherman — The  Scenery  on 
the  St.  Lawrence— The  Prince's  Reception  Room—View  of  the 
Citadel — Grand  Show  of  Regulars  and  Volunteer  Troops — 
Enthusiasm  on  the  Approach  of  the  Hero—Hearty  'Weleome 
to  the  young  Prince — Exciting  Scenes  on  the  Landing  of  the 
Prince — Immense  Concourse  of  People— Order  of  the  Proces- 
sion—Grand Illuminations,  etc.,  etc., 76 

CHAPTER  X. 

Proposed  Federation  of  the  Province,  with  the  Prince  of  Wales 
as  Viceroy — The  Prince  at  Church— His  Visit  to  the  Falls  of 
the  Chaudiere — Description  of  the  Falls,  etc.,  etc., 83 

CHAPTER  XI. 

CloBing  Scenes  in  Quebec, 87 


i  .  i 


CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XII. 
The  first  day  in  Montreal, 

CHAPTER  XIII. 


91 


The  Cricket-Ground- Indian  Games  and  Dances — The  Levee 
and  the  Citizens'  Ball — The  Prince  Encircled  by  Ropes — The 
Concert— Cornwall— In  the  Hapids — Lachine — The  Military 
Review  and  Return — Ottawa,  etc., 97 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Enthusiasm  and  Warmth  of  the  People— Torch-light  and  Fire- 
men's Processions,  and  Departure  of  the  Prince — The  Scenery 
among  the  Thousand  Isles— The  Trip  from  Brockville — Ar- 
rival at  Kingston— the  Preparations  for  the  Reception — The 
Disappointment  of  the  Multitude,  and  the  Obstinacy  of  the 
Orangemen,  etc., 110 

CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Landing  at  Toronto — Fifty  Thousand  Spectators— Four 
Thousand  Children  in  Chorus — The  Procession — Decorations 
on  the  Route — An  Orange  Arch — The  Royal  Party  Annoyed 
— The  Mayor  in  Hot  Water — Illuminations— Addresses — The 
Prince  Playing  at  Rackets-  Reception  at  Osgoode  Hall — The 
Prince  enrolled  as  a  Barrister — The  Ball — Beautiful  Appear- 
ance of  the  Ball-room — Another  Orange  Outrage— Departure 
for  ColUngwood,  et3.,  etc., 120 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  London  of  America— Its  Features  and  its  Differences— 
Sarnia — The  Indians  and  their  Eloquence — Presentation  of 
Medals — The  Prince's  Journey  to  Niagara — Fort  Erie — Arrival 
at  Niagara— Illumination  of  the  Falls,  etc.,  etc., 137 

CHAPTER  XVIL 

The  Falls  and  the  Prince  of  Waies— Farini  crossing  Niagara— 
Blondin  and  his  Exploits — Description  of  his  Performances — 
Crossing  on  Stilts— The  Prince  in  the  Spray— Illumination  of 
the  Falls— The  Prince  in  the  United  States,  etc., 145 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Departure  from  Niagara    FivUs— Brock's  Monument    and    its 
1^.     Corner-Stone — A  Magnificent  View — St.  Catharine's  and  the 
Prince's  Reception  there — Grimsby — Hamilton — Enthusiasm 
of  the  Populace— Description  of  the  City,  etc., 163 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  Grandeur  of  the  Prince's  Reception  at  Detroit— Immense 
Turn-out  of  the  Populace — The  Coup  d'Etat  of  the  Prince  to 
reach  the  Russell  House — His  Royal  Highness  takes  a  Drive 
through  Detroit — His  Departure  for  Chicago — Demonstrations 
of  Welcome — Immense  Turn-out  of  theChicagoaus — The  Prince 
makes  his  Appearance  on  the  Balcony  of  the  Richmond  House 
— Enthusiastic  Cheers  of  Welcome  by  the  Populace — The 
Royal  Party  proceed  on  a  Prairie  Shooting  Excursion, 161 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Trip  from  Dwiglit  to  St.  Louis— Origin  of  St.  Louis — Its  Early 
History  and  Progress — Presents  from  His  Royal  Highness —    . 
The  Journey  to  Cincinnati, 170 

* 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

From  Pittsburg  to  Harrisburg — Over  the  Mountains— Fast  Trav- 
eling of  the  Prince — A  Mistake — His  Royal  Highness  in  Har- 
risburg— The  Ladies  and  their  AflFections — The  Arrival  ia 
Baltimore —The  Enthusiasm — The  Reception  in  Washuigton — 
Republican  Simplicity,  etc., 179 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Prince's  Visit  to  Mount  Vernon — The  Trip  of  the  Royal, 
Party  and  Hosts  down  the  Potomac — Arrival  at  Mount  Vernon 
— The  Prince  evinces  a  deep  Interest  in  the  History  of  Wash- 
ington—lie Plants  a  Tree  in  Commemoration  of  his  Visit — 
He  Pockets  some  Horse-Chestnuts,  which  he  intends  to  Plant 
ia  Windsor  Park- The  Return  Trip— The  Quarter-Deck  of 
the  Revenue  Cutter  Devoted  to  the  Disciples  of  Terpsichore — 
The  Prince  at  Richmond,  etc., 189 


• 


CONTENTS. 


xi 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

The  Departure  from  Baltimore,  and  Arrival  at  Philadelphia — 
Enthusiasm  of  the  People— Quarters  of  the  Prince  at  the  Con- 
tinental— He  occupies  the  same  Rooms  as  did  the  Japanese 
Princes — Incidents,  etc., 196 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

New  York's  Glorious  Welcome  to  the  Prince — A  Million  ou 
Broadway  and  Fifth  Avenue — Splendid  Military  Spectacle — 
The  Review  on  the  Battery  and  in  the  Park — Five  Miles  of 
Human  Beings — Housetops,  Brick  Piles,  Lamp-Posts,  Win- 
dows, Steps,  Awning-Posts,  Doorways,  Carriages,  Boxes,  Stages, 
Carts,  Iron  Railings,  and  Trees,  from  the  Battery  to  Madison 
Square,  Covered  with  Men,  Women,  and  Children— The  Dia- 
mond Ball— Grand  Procession  of  Firemen,  etc.,  etc., 203 

CHAPTER  XXT. 

The  Run  up  the  River  to  see  the  Prince — The  Trip  of  the  Har- 
riet Lane — Excitement  of  the  Ladies — The  Review  at  West 
Point, 214 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

The  Departure  from  Albany — Prpgress  e^i  route— The  Grand  Re- 
ception at  Boston— An  Immense  Crowd— The  Military  Dis- 
play—The Illuminated  Parade,  etc., 220 

CHArrER  XXVIL 

The  Review— The  Musical  Festival— The  Grand  Ball— The  Visit 
to  Harvard  College  and  Bunker  Hill— The  Departure  for  Port- 
land— The  Embarkation— The  last  Farewell  to  America, 226 

CoNCLUDiKa  Reflectioxs, 242 

Summary  op  the  Prince's  Tocr, 248 

The  Historical  Prim^es  op  Wales, 2'35 

The  Royal  Party, 272 


«  • 

^"  CONTENTS. 

Poetry,^''  Welcome,  Laddie,  for  your  Mither'a  sake," 280 

"  At  the  Grave  ofWashmgton," 280 

"  Paddy's  Ode  to  the  Prince," 283 

<'  The  New  York  Ball  to  the  Prince,  or  the  Belles  he 
danced  with," 284 


y 


I 


UOYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD; 


OR, 


2ri)e  prince  of  iUaleg  in  ^.merica. 


-»»* 


CHAPTER  I. 


INTRODUCTORY. 


I  AM  happy  to  say  that  this  is  not  a  Blue  Book,  un- 
less it  happens  to  be  so  in  the  color  of  the  binding. 
Yet  it  contains  a  faithful  record  of  the  progress  of  a 
great  historical  event  from  its  inception  to  its  term- 
ination, and  to  myself,  at  least,  it  will  always  be  a 
pleasant  souvenir. 

When  I  am  dead  and  gone,  as  people  say  in  En- 
gland, the  visit  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  will  be  recalled 
in  the  midst  of  pleasant  associations  by  hundreds  of 
thousands  who  are  now  children,  and  whose  present 
boast  is  that  they  have  seen  him  ;  and  when  they  too 
have  gone  the  way  of  all  flesh  their  children  and  their 
children's  children  will  read  in  the  history  of  our  time 
the  chronicle  of  this  royal  visit,  and  it  will  be  equally 
remembered  in  England  and  America,  and  tend  for 
ages  to  preserve  and  strengthen  that  friendship  which 
ought  always  to  subsist  between  the  English  and 
Americans,  who  are  allied,  not  only  by  ties  of  interest, 
but  by  an  affinity  of  race  and  language,  which  latter 
is  a  natural  bond  that  can  never  be  entirely  broken, 


ROYALTY  IN  THE   NEW  WORLD;   OR, 


and  it  is  to  be  hoped  that  the  day  will  never  come 
when  it  will  be  found  weaker  than  we  find  it  now. 

I  employed  nearly  the  same  words  in  a  newspaper 
leader  before  the  advent  of  His  Royal  Highness  in 
America,  and  I  think  they  met  with  a  hearty  response 
in  every  Anglo-Saxon  breast  on  botli  sides  of  the  At- 
lantic. They  were  quoted  by  the  press  in  America, 
and  echoed  in  England  by  the  press  tliere. 

I  only  mention  this  to  show  the  feeling  which  actu- 
ated me  in  narrating  the  events  relating  to  the  royal 
tour,  of  which  I  was  an  eye-witness  from  the  first  land- 
ing of  His  Royal  Hiirhno=^s  on  the  continent  till  his 
final  departure  from  Portland. 

I  left  New  York  as  early  as  the  10th  of  July  for 
Montreal,  and  afterwards  visited  Quebec,  Ottowa, 
Toronto,  and  other  Canadian  towns,  preparatory  to 
proceeding  to  Halifax;  and,  perhap.-,  if  I  afi'ord  a  few 
glimpses  of  places  by  the  way,  I  may  not  be  considered 
wearisoi  ^e.  Therefore,  to  begin.  1  left  New  York  by 
the  seven  A.M.  train  for  Troy,  and  had  a  delightful 
view  of  the  glorious  Hudson  by  the  way.  From  Troy, 
where  the  passengers  bound  north  changed  cars,  1  was 
carried  by  that  steam-horse,  the  locomotive,  over  a 
series  of  beautiful  landscapes,  till  the  sonorous  voice 
of  the  conductor  announced  that  Rutland  was  reached. 
There  I  succeeded  in  possessing  myself  of  a  sandwich 
and  cup  of  coffee,  upon  which  I  dined,  there  being 
neither  time  nor  opportunity  for  a  more  ample  feast. 
But  half  a  loaf  is  better  than  no  bread  to  a  hungry 
man,  especially  to  one  who  had  traveled  two  hundred 
and  thirty -five  miles  without  a  previous  indulgence  in 
the  customary  meal  of  breakfast.  From  Rutland,  till 
we  sighted  on  the  left  the  mirror-like  waters  of  Lake 
Champlain,  the  scenery  on  either  hand  was  of  the 
most  varied  and  fascinating  character.  I  could  de- 
scribe it  at  a  lengtli  which  would  satisfy  the  most  ex- 
acting landscape  painter  in  the  world,  but  all  the 
world  is  not  made  up  of  landscape  painters,  and  it  is 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES    IN   AMERICA. 


3 


possible  that  some  of  my  readers  would  find  such  scru- 
pulous detail  the  reverse  of  amusing  ;  and  as  I  wish 
my  books  to  be  of  tlie  utile  et  duke  class,  I  am  desirous 
of  preserving  that  '•  happy  medium"  of  whicli  I  have 
heard  so  much  in  theory  but  seen  so  little  in  practice. 
It  is,  therefore,  enough  that  I  say  the  scenery  was 
gladdening  to  the  eye  ;  that  the  sun  brightened  tlie 
hills,  and  here  and  there  threw  a  shadow  over  the 
valleys  ;  that  the  eye  searched  in  vain  for  that  monot- 
onv  of  feature  which  often  characterizes  North  Amer- 
ican  landscapes,  and  that  every  living  thing,  from  the 
young  colt,  that  cantered  across  the  grass  land  at  our 
approach,  to  the  dallying,  bright-winged  butterfly,  and 
from  the  monarch  of  the  primeval  forest  to  the  cul- 
tured rose,  seemed  to  disport  in  the  gladness  of  its 
existence. 

Such  -glorious  weather  as  thus  animated  the  earth 
with  its  vivifying  effulgence  has  a  peculiarly  inspiring 
effect  upon  my  mind,  when  I  am  enabled  to  calmly 
survey  nature  in  her  placid  beauty  aloof  from  the  busy 
haunts  of  men  ;  but  there  is  no  beauty  without  its 
alloy,  and  in  my  case  the  alloy  was  chiefly  made  up 
of  dust  and  smoke — two  things  inseparable  from  rail- 
way traveling,  at  least  in  the  New  World. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  we  crossed  a  couple  of  bridges, 
from  which  the  passengers  looked  down  into  a  deep 
and  rocky  gorge,  at  the  bottom  of  which  a  stream  of 
water  coiled  snake-like  and  stealthily,  giving  to  the 
chasm  an  appearance  of  solemn,  gloomy  wildness,  as 
impressive  as  some  of  the  scenes  pictured  in  the  som- 
bre pages  of  Dante. 

The  train  passed  slowly  over  the  bridges,  and  this 
mournful  pace  gave  time  for  reflection.  Twili<iht 
soon  made  the  distant  hills  grow  dim,  and  a  few  broad 
streaks  of  coloring  above  the  western  horizon  alone 
relieved  the  duskiness  that  harbingered  the  night. 

Night  had  actually  begun  when  we  crossed  the  two- 
mile  bridge  on  piles  across  Masisco  Bay.     A  few  min- 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;    OR, 


a  charge  of 


utes  afterwards  we  crossed  another  of  the  same  kind, 
and  nearly  as  long,  spanning  Lake  Champlain  at 
Rouse's  Point,  where  the  British  Custom-house  officer 
was  obliging  enough  to  leave  my  baggage  behind, 
since  which  time  I  have  been  under  the  necessity  of 
doing  without  it. 

By  this  time  the  weather  had  changed  ;  a  heavy 
shower  of  rain  came  pattering  against  the  car  win- 
dows, and  the  darkness  grew  deeper.  A  Dutchman 
in  the  train,  of  the  slop-built  aspect,  made  himself 
ridiculous  about  this  time  by  talking,  in  the  most  uu- 
grammatical  and  unintelligible  English  imaginable, 
upon  the  slavery  question. 

A  prisoner  in  handcuffs,  arrested  on 
murder,  was  one  of  our  passengers  all  the  way  ;  so 
that  our  society,  it  will  be  seen,  was  of  an  order  more 
than  usually  varied  ;  but  variety  is  not  always  charm- 
ing, although  that  which  has  almost  become  a  proverb 
tells  us  it  is  so.  We  must  not,  however,  believe  all  that 
we  hear,  and  even  proverbs  lie. 

The  train  reached  the  banks  of  the  St.  Lawrence  at 
a  quarter  to  eleven,  when  we  emerged  from  the  cars 
into  the  now  cold  and  damp  night,  the  darkness  of 
which  was  unrelieved  by  a  star  or  moonbeam,  and 
went  on  board  the  ferry  steamer,  which  straightway 
ploughed  its  way  across  the  black  and  silent  tide  to 
the  wharf  at  Montreal — the  Hochelaga  of  the  red  In- 
dian, the  Ville  Marie  of  the  French. 

Five  years  ago  I  set  my  foot  on  its  island  shore,  and 
did  the  "  mountain"  in  a  caleche,  and  paced  the  solemn 
aisles  of  the  Cathedral  in  the  Place  des  Armes.  Mon- 
treal is  the  city  of  red-tiled  and  tinned  roofs,  and  a 
birds-eye  view  of  it  is  consequently  not  unpicturesque. 
It  is  more  than  half  French,  and  this  French  element 
seems  ineradicable.  When  you  speak  to  a  cabman  he 
answers  in  a  French  patois,  or  with  an  accent  which 
tells  you  that  French  is  the  mother  tongue ;  as  you 
pass  a  group  of  children  you  hear  them  chattering 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


French  ;  whenever  you  look  up  at  the  name  of  a  street 
painted  on  tlio  walls,  the  chances  are  twenty  to  one 
that  it  is  French  also  ;  you  meet  Catholic  priests  in 
their  vestments,  with  their  heads  covered  with  ordi- 
nary black  silk  hats  ;  you  read  French  names  over  the 
shops,  and  at  the  Custom-house  and  City  Hall  you 
find  the  names  of  the  Departments  painted  on  the 
doors  in  botli  langua<?es  ;  you  go  into  your  hotel  and 
take  up  an  entirely  French  newspaper,  and  an  entirely 
French  play-bill  from  a  French  theatre ;  in  fact, 
wherever  you  turn,  you  are  constantly  reminded  that 
Montreal  was  once  a  colony  of  France,  and  the  fea- 
tures of  the  people,  as  well  as  of  the  city,  confirm  you 
in  the  impression. 

On  the  following  morning  I  took  a  drive  through 
the  city,  the  public  buildings  of  which  are,  almost 
without  exception,  built  of  gray  limestone  of  the  gran- 
ite aspect. 

For  tlie  first  time  I  now  saw  the  completed  great 
two-mile  tubular  bridge  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway 
Company  across  the  St.  Lawrence.  When  I  visited 
Montreal  in  1855,  it  was  not  a  bridge,  but  a  mere 
skeleton.  1  therefore  felt  a  peculiar  interest  in  glanc- 
ing over  its  immense  span,  which  is  supported  by 
twenty-four  piers,  standing  242  feet  apart,  excepting 
the  centre  span,  which  is  339  feet,  each  pier  being 
calculated  to  resist  the  force  of  70,000  tons  of  ice  at 
one  time.  Resting  on  these  piers,  and  extending  from 
abutment  to  abutment,  is  the  bridge,  consisting  of  a 
hollow  iron  tube,  twenty-two  feet  high  and  sixteen 
feet  wide.  As  a  work  of  human  ingenuity  and  indus- 
try, it  is  worthy  to  rank  with  the  seven  wonders  of 
the  worM,  and  is  decidedly  one  of  the  greatest  works 
of  engineering  art  in,  not  only  America,  but  the  two 
hemispheres. 

I  left  Montreal  by  the  four  P.M.  train  for  Quebec 
on  the  day  following  my  arrival,  and  for  the  first  time 
in  my  life  passed  througli  the  bridge,  which  is  pleas- 


6  ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 

antly  lighted  from  above  by  openings  near  the  roof. 
The  weather  at  this  time  was  cold  and  showery,  and 
as  the  evening  advanced  it  became  so  chilly  that  a  fire 
was  lighted  in  the  car  stove.  Only  one  lirst-class  car 
was  attached  to  the  train  ;  tliere  was  anotiier  next  the 
tender,  but  it  was  second  class,  and  the  warmth  which 
this  wood  fire  emitted  was  very  acceptable.  The 
scenery  along  the  road  was  flat  and  monotonous. 
Charred  stumps  of  trees,  and  here  and  there  a  burning 
log,  lined  the  wayside,  which  showed  that  those  con- 
cerned were  anxious  to  clear  the  land  of  its  surplus- 
age of  timber  at  tlie  earliest  opportunity.  A  few 
wooden  villages,  and  occasionally  the  solitary  tene- 
ment of  some  lonely  wood-cutter,  enamored,  perhaps, 
but  I  think  it  doubtful,  of  a  lodge  in  the  wilderness, 
alone  gave  evidence  of  the  presence  of  man  in  this 
thinly  peopled  district. 

At  half-past  nine  we  reached  the  terminus  of  the 
line  at  Point  Levy,  opposite  the  quaint  old  garrisoned 
city  of  Quebec.  We  emerged  from  the  car  shivering 
with  the  cold,  and  locomoted  our  way  on  board  the 
ferry  steamer,  which  conveyed  us  across  the  dark  river, 
at  this  point  about  a  mile  wide,  to  the  "  Lower  Town," 
a  quarter  inhabited  chiefly  by  the  French,  or  rather 
the  descendants  of  the  French,  and  about  the  most 
gloomy,  unwholesome,  and  dirty-looking  spot  in  all 
Canada.  This  region,  which  has  a  very  antiquated 
appearance,  is  built  under  the  cliffs,  and  occupies  a  site 
SO  low  that  the  very  wharves  projecting  into  tlie  river 
are  more  elevated  than  it.  In  the  main  street  is  to 
be  seen  the  oldest  church  in  the  colonv.  It  is  a  crum- 
bling  vestige  of  by-gone  ages,  and  the  plaster  on  its 
outer  walls  has  been  yellowed  by  the  sun  and  rains  of 
centuries.  It  reminded  me  strongly  of  the  Catholic 
churches  at  Lima,  and  its  aspect  is,  so  far,  South  Amer- 
ican. 

I  entered  the  omnibus  of  Russell's  Hotel,  and  after 
ascending  several  precipitous  streets  we  passed  through 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


the  Prescott  Gate,  so  celebrated  in  the  history  of  Que- 
bec, to  which  1  shall  hereafter  make  allusion,  and  soon 
readied  our  destination,  for  which  I  was  nothing  less 
than  thankful,  the  cold  being  of  raw  Octoberian  sever- 
ity, and  owing  to  the  loss  of  my  baggage  I  had  been 
unable  to  effect  a  suitable  change  of  clothing. 

Tliose  to  whom  the  sight  of  fortifications  is  refresh- 
ing pre  likely  to  derive  much  pleasure  from  a  visit  to 
the  gray  old  city  of  Quebec — the  Gibraltar  of  the  New 
World.  All  approaclies  to  the  city,  both  by  land  and 
water,  are  commanded  by  formidable  batteries  point- 
ing huge  black  cannon,  which  meet  you  with  open 
mouth  at  e~  ?ry  turning  in  certain  neighborhoods.  The 
circuit  of  the  fortifications  inclosing  the  Upper  Town 
is  two  miles  and  three  quarters,  and  the  total  circum- 
ference outside  the  ditches  and  space  reserved  by  gov- 
ernment on  which  no  house  is  allowed  to  be  built,  on 
the  west  side,  is  nearly  three  miles.  The  fortifications 
consist  of  bastions  connected  by  lofty  curtains  of  solid 
masonry,  and  ramparts  from  twenty-five  to  thirty-five 
feet  high,  and  of  an  almost  equal  thickness,  bristling 
with  the  before  mentioned  cannon,  and  diversified  with 
round  towers,  loophole  walls,  and  massive  gates,  which 
occur  at  regular  distances.  On  the  summit  of  the 
ramparts,  from  Cape  Diamond  to  the  Artillery  Bar- 
racks, is  a  broad,  covered  walk,  commanding  a  beau- 
tiful view  of  the  country  westward.  This  passes  over 
the  top  of  St.  John's  and  St.  Louis'  Gates,  where  a  ser- 
geant's guard  is  stationed,  and  from  which,  at  sunset, 
popular  report  informs  me,  a  splendid  view  is  obtain- 
able ;  and  I  saw  no  reason  to  discredit  popular  report; 
although  it  is  by  no  means  always  on  the  side  of  truth. 
I  was  not  there  at  that  delightful  hour  when  nature, 
as  it  were,  sinks  to  rest,  and  the  sun  to  illuminate 
the  other  hemisphere.  Phoebus  is  a  hard-working 
fellow,  his  task  is  never  ending  and  he  keeps  no 
holiday ;  yet  he  always  goes  his  rounds,  casting  that 
pleasant,  broad  smile  of  his  over  the  earth,  as  if  he 


8 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


Rli 


never  knew  what  it  was  to  look  on  the  dark  side  of  life. 
Happy,  bright-faced  luminary,  whom  nations  have 
worshiped  through  all  time  as  the  king  of  the  universe  I 
Would  that  I  were  the  sun  1 

If  I  had  been  above  St.  John^s  Gate  at  the  hour 
named,  just  preceding  that  most  dear  to  lovers,  and 
when  I  sometimes  fin^^  /self  singing  "  Come  into  the 
garden,  Maud,"  as  .  ically  had  a  Maud  to  sing  to, 
I  should  likely  have  taken  in  all  the  features  of  the 
landscape  to  my  entire  satisfaction.  I  should  have 
seen  the  river  St.  Charles  in  the  fleeting  effulgence, 
either  reposing  with  mirror-like  placidity,  or  waving 
like  a  rye-field,  according  to  the  state  of  the  wind  ; 
should  have  gazed  with  lingering  delight  and  the  en- 
thusiasm of  a  painter  upon  the  last  touches  of  light 
and  coloring  resting  on  the  spires  of  Lorette  and 
Charlesbourg,  and  have  watched  them  as  they  faded 
away  beyond  the  mountains  of  Bonliomme  and  Tsoun- 
onthuan,  which  rear  their  summits  dimly  in  the  dis- 
tance ;  while  at  one  sweep  of  the  eye  I  should  have  em- 
braced every  detail  of  the  prospect,  far  and  near,  with 
all  its  picturesque  variations  of  light  and  shade.  But 
it  is  not  yet  too  late,  and  some  fine  day  at  sunset  I 
shall  be  a  spectator  of  the  scene  which  I  have  faintly 
traced.  My  eye  never  wearies  of,  but  is  ever  eager 
for,  beautiful  sunsets  and  beautiful  scenery,  although  I 
have  seen  thousands  of  the  most  splendid  natural 
views  in  the  world,  for  I  have  been  a  wanderer  in  my 
day,  and  there  are  but  few  climes  in  which  1  have  not 
set  my  foot. 

The  city  being  defended  on  its  land  side  by  ram- 
parts, is  elsewhere  protected  by  a  lofty  wall  and  para- 
pet, based  on  a  high  natural  cliff,  which  no  troops  in 
the  world  could  scale.  The  Upper  Town  is  founded 
on  a  rock — a  very  sure  foundation,  too,  according  to 
all  authorities,  from  the  parable  downward — while 
tlie  Lower  Town  is  a  wretched,  populous  place,  built 
under  this  rock,  facing  the  St.  Lawrence.    The  streets 


:it,iin 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


leading  from  the  Lower  to  the  CTppcr  Town  are,  as  a 
natural  consequence,  very  steep,  and  they  are  also 
very  tortuous  and  narrow.  One  of  these  streets  is 
named  tlie  Mountain,  and  the  name  conveys  a  very  ac- 
curate idea  of  the  sort  of  thoroughfare  it  \3.  The 
military  history  of  Quebec  possesses  a  world-wide  in- 
terest, for  on  its  fields  and  around  its  battlements  some 
of  the  most  courageous  exploits  ever  attempted  have 
taken  place.  Wolfe  of  England,  Montcalm  of  France, 
and  Montgomery  of  America  died  there,  and  their 
names  are  associated  with  a  lasting  glory  in  the  chroni- 
cles of  warfare.  On  the  next  morning  I  hired  a  wagon, 
as  the  carriages  are  called  here,  and  drove  to  the  cele- 
brated Plains  of  Abraham,  where  General  Wolfe 
fought  and  died  in  the  remarkable  battle  against  the 
French  troops  under  Montcalm. 

I  drove  through  tlie  St.  Louis  Gate,  where  every  an- 
gle was  commanded  by  cannon,  and,  leaving  the  citadel 
on  the  left,  passed  between  martello-towers  guarding 
the  road,  and  soon  afterwards  reached  the  toll-gate  at 
the  entrance  to  the  Plains,  where  ninepence  of  British 
money  was  demanded.  This  is  a  tax  I  have  never 
paid  with  pleasure,  and  on  the  present  occasion  I  did 
not  pay  it  at  all.  I  left  the  wagon  standing,  and,  pass- 
ing through  a  rude  opening  like  a  gateway,  where 
stood  a  wooden  shanty,  which,  so  far  as  its  appearance 
was  concerned,  might  have  been  uninhabited,  I  found 
myself  in  one  of  the  open  and  grassy  fields  which  con- 
stitute the  Plains  of  Abraham,  and  straight  before  me, 
within  a  small  paling  inclosure,  stood  a  column  sur- 
mounted with  a  helmet  and  sword,  and  bearing  on  its 
base  the  inscription,  "Here  died  Wolfe,  victorious." 

Ascending  an  eminence  a  little  further  on,  where, 
surrounded  by  a  fence,  can  be  traced  the  redoubt 
where  Wolfe  received  the  fatal  wound,  and  from  which 
he  was  carried  to  the  spot  now  occupied  by  the  col- 
umn, I  had  a  magnificent  view  of  the  surrounding 
country  for  many  miles,  including  the  cove,  a  little  on 


w 


10 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


the  Montreal  side  of  Quebec,  wliero  Wolfe  landed  his 
forces,  and  which  has  since  borne  his  name. 

According  to  history,  which  I  may  remark  is  often 
a  gij^antic  lie,  but  not  always,  the  English  right  nearly 
faced  this  redoubt,  and  on  this  position  the  French  left 
rested.  The  French  came  on  the  Plains  from  the  right 
on  their  way  from  Beauport,  and  not  from  Quebec,  and 
after  their  defeat  retreated  down  the  heights  by  which 
they  had  ascended ;  they  were  thus  entirely  cut  off  from 
the  city. 

On  my  return  to  the  highway,  I  saw  within  an  in 
closure  the  stone  well  from  wliich  the  water  that  moist 
ened  the  lips  of  the  dying  Wolfe  was  procured,  and 
which  is  now  looked  upon  by  many  a«  little  less  than 
holy.  1 

Beyond  this  there  is  a  beautiful  drive  as  far  as 
Marchmont,  where  the  river  widens  into  lake-like  pro- 
portions, and  exhibits  a  fair  sprinkling  of  ships  lying 
at  anchor,  and  smaller  vessels  and  occasionally  a 
steamer  coursing  np  and  down,  while  down  only  im- 
mense rafts  of  timber  may  be  seen  to  float,  guided  by 
men  who,  with  their  families  and  chattels,  have  trav- 
eled on  them  from  the  far  interior  of  the  lumber  coun- 
try. 

Mount  Hermon  Cemetery  lies  in  this  direction,  at  a 
distance  of  about  three  miles  from  Quebec.  It  is  thirty- 
two  acres  in  extent,  and  slopes  with  picturesque  ir- 
regularity down  a  cliff  overhanging  the  St.  Law- 
rence. :  ; 

On  my  way  back  I  visited  the  Citadel,  which  is  im- 
posing enough  without,  and,  with  its  flag-staff  tower, 
has  a  striking  military  appearance,  but  within  presents 
but  little  to  arrest  attention.  I  found  myself  in  a 
large  open  space,  with  barracks  and  stoi  c-houses  built 
round  it  that  had  a  worn  and  desolate  look.  I  had 
long  heard  of  the  beautiful  view  attainable  from  the 
tower  of  this  Citadel,  which,  from  its  elevation  of  three 
hundred  and  sixty  feet  above  the  river,  set  before  the 


THE  PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


11 


ber  coun- 


lingering  eye  a  lovely  panorama  of  the  surrounding 
scenery,  embracing  mountains,  valleys,  and  plains, 
and  the  rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  St.  Charles.  I, 
tlierefore,  eagerly  made  the  ascent,  and  well  was  I 
rewariled.  The  description  would  be  monotonous, 
but  tlie  prospect  was  varied  and  refreshing,  and  I  felt 
myself  well  rewarded  for  my  trouble.  I  have  alluded 
to  the  French  features  of  Montreal  ;  but  Quebec 
is  even  more  French  than  the  City  of  the  Island. 
Thousands  of  tlie  population  speak  a  French  patois, 
and  only  a  few  words  of  broken  English.  Many  of 
the  streets  have  Frencli  names,  and  the  churches  of  the 
Roman  Catholics  preponderate  far  over  those  of  the 
Protestants.  The  former  are  a  strong  party  in  Lower 
Canada,  seeing  that  they  constitute  four  fifths  of  the 
entire  population,  and  nearly  all  converse  as  often  in 
French  as  in  English,  so  that  an  affinity  of  language 
between  the  English  and  the  bulk  of  the  Lower  Cana- 
dians can  hardly  be  said  to  exist. 

After  returning  to  the  city  I  entered  the  Cathedral, 
whose  tall,  tin-covered  spires  had  attracted  my  atten- 
tion. The  interior  was  painted  white,  and  over  the 
grand  altar  a  gilded  canopy  rose  nearly  as  high  as  the 
arched  roof,  while  round  the  walls  were  several  chap- 
els, dedicated  to  various  saints.  But  the  charm  of  the 
whole  was  by  no  means  equal  to  the  dim  old  moulder- 
ing churches  of  the  faith  in  the  more  balmy  regions  of 
South  America.  Even  the  few  kneeling  figures  that  I 
saw  seemed  more  formal,  yet  less  fervent  in  their  devo- 
tions than  those  with  whose  precincts  I  had  made 
myself  familiar  on  the  shores  of  the  .Pacific,  and  there 
was  less  solemnity  of  aspect  about  the  whole  than  be- 
longed— yea,  still  belongs — to  the  grand  old  taberna- 
cle relics  of  the  vice-regal  period  of  Peru — the  monu- 
ments of  splendid  ruin  in  which  the  maiden  kneels  to 
her  invisible  father  confessor,  and  the  service  of  tiie 
mass  is  still  said. 

At  eleven  o'clock  I  drove  Ottt  to  the  Falls  of  Mont- 


12 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NE  W   WORLD  ;   OR, 


morenci,  which  are  situated  at  a  distance  of  about 
seven  miles  from  Quebec.  The  journey  thither  I  per- 
formed in  a  caleche,  drawn  by  a  stout  Canadian  horse. 
After  passing  through  a  succession  of  narrow  and  de- 
clivitous streets,  we  emerged  through  a  dilapidated 
gateway  into  the  suburb  of  San  Roque,  and  then  cross- 
ed a  long  wooden  bridge  spanning  the  St.  Charles 
River.  The  houses  at  the  road-side  were  all  painted 
white,  and  had  a  very  quaint  appearance.  Fine  gar- 
dens were  attached  to  each,  and  in  some  of  these  wom- 
en, dressed  in  short  black  frocks,  white  bodices,  and 
broad-brimmed  straw  hats,  were  engaged  in  horticul- 
tural operations. 

On  arriving  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Montmorenci  riv- 
ulet or  torrent,  which  I  found  rushing  through  a  rocky 
gorge,  and  just  before  flinging  itself  over  a  precipice 
two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  deep — greater  even  than 
that  of  Niagara — so  constituting  the  Falls,  I  accepted 
the  services  of  a  juvenile  individual  who  exhibited 
great  anxiety  to  "  show"  me  the  cataract.  I  now 
alighted  from  the  caleche  and  commenced  the  descent 
over  an  exceedingly  rugged  and  shelving  path  as  far 
as  a  sm.all  ledge  of  rock  ju&t  overhanging  the  Falls. 
After  thus  looking  down  at  the  tumbling  waters,  I  de- 
scended considerably  further  and  looked  up  at  them. 
From  this  position  I  had  a  splendid  view.  The  water 
fell  in  an  unbroken  sheet,  into  an  oblong  recess,  the 
sides  of  which  were  almost  perpendicular,  and  opening 
into  the  St.  Lawrence,  whose  banks  were  here  high, 
but  gradually  inclining.  The  eftect  of  the  neighboring 
scenery  was  somewhat  spoiled  by  the  too  close  prox- 
imity of  some  saw-mills,  driven  by  water-power,  on  the 
banks  of  a  small  stream,  diverted  from  the  main  chan- 
nel of  the  Montmorenoi.  The  spot  last  alluded  to  is 
remarkable  for  the  formation  of  an  ice  cone,  caused  by 
the  freezing  of  the  spray.  But  as  there  now  remained 
no  traces  of  the  last  year's  glacier,  I  was  unable  to  im- 
agine myself  in  Switzerland. 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


13 


The  Falls,  although  so  high,  and  situated  in  a  beauti- 
ful nook  of  the  river,  are  not  as  grand  as  may  be  sup- 
posed, owing  to  tlieir  narrowness,  fifty  feet  being,  I 
should  say,  their  greatest  breadth. 

The  journey  from  Quebec  to  Montreal  occupied  by 
railway  only  live  hours  and  a  half — an  arrangement 
very  creditable  to  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  Com- 
pany. On  the  way  we  sighted  several  bush  fires, 
which  threw  a  lurid  glare  over  certain  parts,  and  cov- 
ered the  landscape  with  smoke.  But  to  myself,  who 
had  seen  the  bush  fires  of  Australia,  where  for  miles  the 
prospect  was  one  sheet  of  flame,  and  where  for  hund- 
reds of  miles  I  could  trace  the  effects  of  the  conflagra- 
tion, the  scene  was  as  insignificant  as  is  a  fusee  when 
compared  to  a  burning  mountain.  However,  burning 
mountains  are  not  to  be  seen  every  day,  so  I  was  con- 
tent with  the  fusee ;  and  as  timber  is  a  drug  in  this 
market,  I  did  not  feel  as  I  should  have  done  had  I 
been  gazing  at  a  house  on  fire.  I  knew  that  the  fire 
would  only  tend  to  clear  the  land  of  wood,  as  a  great 
deal  of  human  labor  is  brought  into  requisition  daily 
for  converting  the  saplings,  yea,  and  the  old  monarchs 
of  the  forest,  into  firewood,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
ready  the  land  for  agricultural  and  building  opera- 
tions. 

1  remained  at  Montreal  till  Monday  morning,  when 
I  left  by  the  nine  A.M.  train  for  Toronto,  calling  at 
Ottowa.  In  the  mean  time,  I  explored  the  city  more 
than  I  had  ever  done  before.  The  public  buildings  at 
Montreal  are  well  worth  visiting,  and  for  the  benefit 
of  future  tourists,  I  will  make  mention  of  a  few  of  the 
principal. 

The  new  Court  House,  on  Notre  Dame  Street,  is 
one  of  the  most  massive  and  imposing  of  the  whole 
city.  It  is  built  of  limestone  in  the  Grecian  Ionic 
style,  and  is  seventy-six  feet  high,  the  ground  plan  be- 
ing three  hundred  feet  by  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
five.    Standing  immediately  opposite,  and  contrasting 


'I! 


•i.  ;l!  i 


14 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :  OR, 


remarkably  with  the  newness  of  its  appearance,  is 
Nelson's  monument. 

The  Post-office,  on  Great  St.  James  Street,  is  a 
handsome  building,  as  also  is  the  Bonsecours  Market, 
in  St.  Paul  Street.  Several  of  the  banks  make  a  very 
imposing  display,  particularly  the  Bank  of  Montreal, 
in  the  square.  Place  d'Armes,  which  is  of  cut  stone 
and  of  the  Corinthian  order. 

I  have  already  made  mention  of  the  Cathedral  on 
the  opposite  side  of  this  square,  the  turrets  of  which 
rise  conspicuously  over  all  the  other  buildings  in  the 
city.  Tliere  are  three  nunneries  in  and  about  Mon- 
treal, and  Sisters  of  Mercy,  in  their  unbecoming  black, 
and  with  a  white  band  across  the  forehead,  may  be 
seen  walking  through  the  street  invariably  at  the  one 
mournful  pace  at  all  hours  of  the  day. 

On  the  next  Sunday  I  took  anothp^  drive  around  the 
mountain — the  royal  one,  from  which  the  city  derives 
its  name.  It  is  almost  a  misnomer  to  call  it  a  mount- 
ain, for  it  is  a  mere  elevated  piece  of  table-land.  The 
drive,  however,  affords  a  series  of  splendid  views,  al- 
though, on  the  present  occasion,  these  were  much  hid- 
den from  my  view  by  the  clouds  of  dust  that  came  whirl- 
ing along  the  highway.  I  called  at  the  Bellevue  Gar- 
dens on  the  way,  where  a  party  of  pleasure  seekers 
were  regaling  themselves  with  such  of  the  good  things 
of  this  life  as  were  there  dispensed.  Mount  Royal 
Cemetery  lies  about  two  miles  from  the  city,  on  the 
mountain,  and  is  much  visited,  but  not  being  in  an 
epitaph-collecting  mood,  I  did  not  stay  to  ponder  over 
its  tombstones.  On  arriving  opposite  the  house  of 
General  Williams,  I  drove  up  one  or  two  private 
roads  leading  to  the  same.  I  found  that  the  General 
was  out  of  town,  and  that  the  premises  were  being 
prepared  for  the  reception  of  His  Royal  Highness. 
The  view  from  the  liouse  is  the  most  deliglitful  on  the 
mountain,  commanding,  as  it  does,  a  fine  sweep  of  the 
Back  River,  whicli  runs  behind  the  city  and  mountaia 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


15 


;arance,  is 


of  the  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  thickly  wooded  Nun's 
Island,  where  a  large  nunnery  is  situated  ;  of  the  great 
tubular  railway  bridge,  backed  in  the  distance  by  a 
couple  of  lofty  hills,  and  with  a  foreground  of  wooded 
landscape,  dotted  with  here  and  there  a  villa,  while 
turning  to  the  left  may  be  seen  the  western  end  of  the 
city. 

The  scenery  between  Montreal  and  the  Prescott 
junction,  where  the  Ottowa  passengers  changed  cars, 
is  pretty,  but  not  grand.  I  had  a  pleasant  glimpse  of 
the  St.  Anne's  River  and  the  Lake  of  the  Two  Mount- 
ains on  the  way  ;  but  the  landscape  partook  chiefly 
of  the  character  of  land  undergoing  a  transition  from 
its  natural  state  to  that  of  cultivation.  Just  before 
arriving  at  the  junction  the  train  ran  over  a  skunk 
which  emitted  an  almost  overpowering  stench,  so  that 
we  were  obliged  to  close  the  windows  in  self-defense. 
There  was  nearly  an  hour's  delay  at  tlie  junction  be- 
fore the  arrival  of  the  train  for  Ottawa,  distant  fifty- 
four  miles  from  Prescott,  which  latter  is  one  hundred 
and  twelve  miles  from  Montreal.  The  line  between 
these  places  disclosed  a  succession  of  dense  forest, 
swamp  and  partially  cleared  lands,  with  an  occasional 
group  of  shanties.  Between  Gloucester  and  Ottawa, 
however,  a  few  farms  were  disclosed  on  either  side  of 
the  railway,  as  far  as  the  station  near  New  Edinburg* 
on  the  left  bank  of  .the  Rideau  River,  facing  Ottawa, 
at  the  distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile.  We 
reached  Ottawa  about  four  P.M.,  when  we  took  an 
omnibus  belonging  to  Campbell's  Hotel,  which  was 
the  only  house  represented  by  a  public  vehicle  at  the 
station,  and  bad  enough  I  found  it. 

To  call  Ottawa  a  city  is  ridiculous  ;  but  it  is  likely 
to  become  one ;  so  I  shall  devote  a  few  words  to  it. 
Its  original  name  was  By  town,  and  it  is  the  centre  of 
the  immense  timber  district  of  tlie  river  Ottawa,  on 
whicii  it  is  situated,  at  its  junction  with  the  Rideau 
and  Gatineau.    The  town  is  intersected  by  the  Rideau 


16 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW  WORLD  ;    OR, 


Canal  and  bridge,  and  forms  three  districts,  namely, 
that  of  the  Lower  Town  on  the  east,  Central  Town  ou 
the  west,  and  Upper  Town  on  the  northwest,  all  of 
which  are  on  the  north  side  of  the  Ottawa. 

The  streets  are  all  wide  and  laid  out  at  right 
angles,  Rideau  and  Sussex  Streets  being  the  principal 
ones.  The  buildings  are  monotonously  plain,  and 
present  no  imposing  features.  The  government  build- 
ings are  situated  on  a  place  called  Barrack  Hill ;  but 
these  are  too  insignificant  to  attract  the  attention  of 
the  visitor.  Here  are  erected  some  fortifications,  and 
the  site  is  well  adapted  for  such.  Central  Town  being 
in  the  rear,  while  the  Upper  and  Lower  Towns  are 
completely  commanded  by  it  on  each  side.  In  front 
is  a  precipitous  embankment  running  almost  perpen- 
dicularly to  the  river  over  a  distance  of  several  hund- 
red feet,  thus  completely  sweeping  the  river  and  op- 
posite shore,  at  three  points  of  the  compass. 

The  scenery  around  Ottawa  is  varied  and  delight- 
ful embracing  river,  landscape  and  waterfalls,  tho 
latter  being  those  of  the  Chaudiere — a  Niagara  in 
miniature.  At  present,  they  have  a  fall  of  about  forty 
feet ;  but  in  winter,  when  the  river  is  swollen,  they 
partake  more  of  the  character  of  rapids.  The  best 
view  of  these,  I  was  informed,  could  be  obtained  from 
the  suspension  bridge,  which  crosses  the  river  close 
to  them.  Besides  these,  the  Rideau  Falls  attract 
considerable  attention.  They  are,  however,  much 
smaller,  but  present  features  of  great  natural  beauty. 
Ottowa  is  pre-eminently  the  city  of  the  future,  and 
not  of  the  present.  There  is  a  large  hotel  tliore  al- 
ready built,  but  as  yet  unopened.  This  is  where  the 
Prince  resided  during  his  stay  in  the  place. 

The  new  Houses  of  Parliament  are  being  proceeded 
with  very  rapidly,  but  little  more  than  their  founda- 
tions are  as  yet  built.  The  view  from  this  position  is 
the  most  delightful  in  the  neighborhood,  and  perhapa 
in  all  Canada.  "      • 


THE  PRINCE  OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


n 


owns  are 


Leaving  Ottowa  by  the  eleven  A.M.  train,  we  ar- 
rived in  Toronto  at  the  same  hour  at  night. 

Toronto,  which  is  the  metropolis  of  Upper  Canada, 
lies  on  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  on  a 
clear  day  is  within  view  of  the  mist  rising  above 
Niagara  Falls;  indeed,  I  saw  it  from  the  roof  of  my 
hotel.  It  is  only  forty  years  old  ;  yet  it  boasts  of  a 
university,  consisting  of  two  colleges,  and  several 
public  buildings  of  great  utility,  highly  creditable  to 
the  city.  The  site  of  Toronto  is  extremely  flat,  but 
it  is  nevertheless  a  place  well  worth  visiting,  especial- 
ly by  tourists  on  their  way  to  Niagara. 


"s. 


CHAPTER  n. 

Enthusiastic  Reception  at  St.  John's — Processions,  Levees,  Presenta- 
tions, Illuminatious,  Addresses,  and  Universal  Rejoicings — Royalty 
and  Lovalty  Tete-k-t6te — Scenes  and  Incidents  During  the  Prince's 
Stay — The  Departure  for  Halifax — The  Halt  at  Sidney — A  Unique 
Celebration. 


From  Toronto  I  proceeded  to  Halifax  and  awaited 
the  arrival  of  the  royal  squadron  there.  But  in  or- 
der to  make  my  narrative  of  the  tour  complete  I  give 
the  following  account  of  the  ovation  at  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland, compiled  from  the  special  correspondence 
of  the  JVew  York  Herald  : 

The  popular  idea  seems  to  be  that  Newfoundland  is 
a  large,  barren  island,  with  a  climate  colder  than 
Greenland's,  shut  off  from  all  intercourse  with  the 
civilized  world,  occupied  only  by  a  few  fishing  stations, 
perpetually  enveloped  in  the  densest  of  fogs,  and  in- 
habited by  a  few  hundred  modern  Robinson  Crusoes, 
who  live  in  semi-barbarous  style,  earning  a  living  by 


18 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WO..LD  ;    OR, 


catching  codfish,  and  are  prevented  from  holding  much 
intercourse  with  each  other  by  the  heavy  mists,  which 
render  navigation  by  land  and  water  equally  difficult 
and  dangerous. 

Newfoundland  is  four  hundred  and  twenty  miles  in 
length,  three  hundred  miles  in  breadth  at  its  widest 
part,  about  one  thousand  miles  in  circumference,  and 
with  an  area  of  thirty-five  thousand  nine  hundred  and 
thirteen  miles.  It  lies  just  east  of  the  river  and  gulf 
of  St.  Lawrence,  which  separates  it  from  the  Ameri- 
can continent,  and  its  latitude  is  between  46  deg.  37 
min.  and  51  deg.  40  min.  north.  The  island  is  located 
upon  an  im  nense  bank,  its  shores  are  broken  and  rug- 
ged, and  its  bold  and  lofty  sea-clififs  tower  like  natural 
fortifications  above  the  Atlantic  waves,  with  soundings 
of  from  twenty-five  to  ninety -five  fathoms  up  to  their 
very  bases.  Its  interior  conformation  presents  innu- 
merable hills,  intervened  with  valleys,  marshes,  woods, 
and  barrens,  intersected  by  few  considerable  water- 
courses, but  jeweled  here  and  there  with  hundreds  of 
lakes. 

St.  John's,  the  principal  city  of  the  colony,  and  the 
place  at  which  the  Prince  was  received,  is  situated  on 
the  extreme  east  of  the  island,  and  contains  about 
thirty  thousand  inhabitants.  Its  harbor  is  perfectly 
land-locked,  and  is  entered  by  a  passage  between  two 
high  hills,  appropriately  called  The  Narrows,  since 
there  is  scarcely  room  for  a  steamship  of  ordinary  size 
to  enter.  These  hills  are  fortified,  and  completely 
command  the  harbor ;  which  is  about  half  a  mile  .in 
length,  with  deep  water  up  to  the  very  docks.  St. 
John's  is  built  in  amphitheatrical  form  around  this 
harbor,  and  rises  with  the  hills  from  the  water's  edge. 
Its  appearance  is  certainly  unique,  the  houses  being 
confusedly  jumbled  together,  as  if  some  players  had 
been  using  them  for  dice,  and  had  heaped  them  pell- 
mell  at  the  last  throw.  The  buildings  in  the  lower 
part  of  the  city  are  of  brick,  rebuilt  after  a  large  fire 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


19 


in  1846  ;  in  the  upper  part  of  wood  ;  but  all  are  of 
only  one  or  two  stories  in  height,  and  painted  of  some 
fingy  brownish  color,  with  roofs  of  black,  giving  the 
tow  a  an  indescribably  dull  and  quaint  appearance. 
The  streets,  like  all  the  roads  on  the  island,  are  mac- 
adamized, but,  except  at  intervals,  do  not  pretend  to 
sidewalks  for  pedestrians.  The  city  covers  an  area 
of  about  three  miles,  and  is  very  loosely  and  irregu- 
larly built,  a  few  only  of  the  thoroughfares  being  en- 
titled to  the  name  of  streets,  the  rest  being  merely 
lanes,  with  as  many  turns  and  angles  as  the  best  of 
Boston  cow-paths.  The  city  is  built  upon  a  succession 
of  very  steep  hills,  and  this  gives  all  the  houses  upon 
the  transverse  streets  the  appearance  of  stepping  up 
hills,  and  adds  to  the  unique  aspect  of  the  place.  The 
finest  public  buildings  are  ranged  in  a  line  at  the  rear 
of  the  town,  are  built  of  stone,  and,  excepting  the 
Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  are  of  the  most  hideous 
styles  of  architecture  ;  the  governor's  mansion  looking 
more  like  a  jail  than  a  private  residence,  and  the  Co- 
lonial Building  almost  successfully  contesting  the  palm 
of  ugliness.  The  city  is  not  a  municipality,  but  is  un- 
der the  charge  of  the  House  of  Assembly.  There  are 
a  few  policemen  on  duty,  but  they  seem  to  have  an 
easy  life  of  it,  and  only  occasionally  arrest  a  saucy 
man-o'-war's  man,  by  way  of  practice.  The  stranger 
who  lands  at  St.  John's  is  at  first  struck  with  the 
neatness  and  cleanliness  everywhere  apparent,  and  is 
then  surprised  at  the  apparently  gigantic  size  of  the 
inhabitants,  who,  on  account  of  the  low-storied  houses, 
tower  disproportionately  large,  and  at  the  diminutive 
size  of  the  horses  which  pass  along  the  streets,  draw- 
ing immense  drays,  or  equally  cumbersome  wagons, 
double  seated,  and  generally  loaded  with  four  persons. 
The  immense  number  of  liquor  stores  next  attract  at- 
tention, nearly  every  shop  in  the  lower  part  of  the 
town  keeping  liquor  in  addition  to  its  other  wares. 
St.  John's  is  the  seat  of  the  Colonial  Government,  and 


20 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


almost  every  other  person  one  meets  is  some  official 
or  other.  The  women  are  everywhere  prevalent,  and 
take  the  places  of  men  in  stores,  in  the  markets,  and 
as  waiters  in  the  hotels.  During  the  Prince's  visit 
the  men  seemed  disproportionately  few,  the  majority 
of  them  being  absent  at  the  fisheries  on  the  Labrador 
coast.  The  inhabitants  are  about  two  thirds  Roman 
Catholic.  Along  the  coast,  near  the  city,  are  several 
small  fishing  villages,  and  around  the  harbor  are  raised 
platforms,  called  "  flakes,"  for  drying  the  fish,  from 
which  comes  an  odor  any  thing  but  pleasant  to  unac- 
customed nostrils.  Beyond  the  city  stretches  away 
an  open  country,  broken  by  diminutive  hills,  inter- 
spersed here  and  there  with  small  lakes  or  ponds,  and 
fringed  with  forests  of  evergreens.  Add  to  these  par- 
ticulars a  sky  bright  and  sunshiny  as  that  of  Italy,  and 
weather  deliciously  cool,  and  the  reader  can  form  some 
idea  of  the  city  of  St.  John's. 

As  soon  as  it  was  known  that  the  Prince  of  Wales 
was  to  land  at  St.  John's,  and  not,  as  had  been  previ- 
ously arranged,  to  receive  the  addresses  of  the  inhab- 
itants on  board  ship,  outside  the  harbor,  the  greatest 
excitement  prevailed,  and  every  effort  was  made  to 
give  the  Prince  a  reception  worthy  of  the  colony. 
The  governor's  mansion  was  refurnished,  arches  of 
evergreens  sprang  across  the  streets,  the  inhabitants 
prepared  to  decorate  their  residences.  The  Queen's 
Wharf,  at  which  the  Prince  was  to  land,  was  admira- 
bly fitted  up  ;  the  various  societies  prepared  to  march 
in  procession  ;  a  public  ball  was  arranged,  and  a  pa- 
vilion erected  alongside  the  Colonial  Building  for  the 
occasion  ;  the  two  companies  of  Volunteer  Riflemen 
incessantly  practiced  their  drill ;  a  company  of  one 
hundred  men,  in  riflemen's  uniform,  was  organized  as 
the  Prince's  guard  ;  the  Newfoundland  Corps,  number- 
ing about  two  hundred  men,  detailed  from  the  British 
army,  and  stationed  at  St.  John's,  was  ordered  to  pa- 
rade J  the  newspapers  teemed  with  official  programmes, 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


21 


and  the  city  was  fairly  alive  with  bustle  and  anima- 
tion. The  war-steamer  Flying  Fish,  Captain  Hope, 
one  of  the  vessels  which  was  to  accompany  the  Prince, 
arrived  at  St.  John's  on  the  18th  inst.,  and  increased 
the  excitement.  The  Prince  was  not  expected  at  St. 
John's  until  the  26th  ;  but,  after  a  pleasant  passage 
from  England,  the  royal  ship  pushed  through  the  fog 
banks  which  lie  distinctly  visible  from  St.  John's,  three 
or  four  miles  from  the  island,  and  on  the  evening  of 
the  28d,  were  signaled  from  the  look-out  at  Signal 
Hill,  which  guarils  the  entrance  to  the  harbor. 

The  evening  was  clear  and  pleasant,  and  the  sun- 
shine dying  out  of  the  sky,  left  that  cool  and  delicious 
half-light  most  favorable  to  marine  views.  Just  at 
half-past  live,  the  magnificent  steamer  of  the  line. 
Hero,  with  the  Prince  on  board,  entered  the  narrows, 
closely  followed  by  the  Ariadne,  one  of  the  largest 
and  fastest  war-steamers  of  the  English  navy.  In- 
stantly the  fort  on  Signal  Hill  thundered  its  salute, 
the  cannon  of  the  French  frigate  Sesostris  and  the 
Flying  Fish  echoing  the  reports,  and  the  Ariadne,  with 
its  heavier  guns,  pealing  its  bass  to  the  chorus,  while  the 
reverberations  of  the  surrounding  hills  repeated  the 
salutes,  like  parks  of  artillery.  Flags  of  every  variety 
of  color  suddenly  streamed  from  tlie  shipping  and 
lightened  up  the  town  with  gay  hues,  every  house  dis- 
playing its  decorations,  and  the  public  buildings  and 
churches  being  fairly  enveloped  in  the  gaudy  folds  of 
the  English  ensign.  Mingling  with  the  thunder  of  the 
cannon,  came  the  silvery  chiming  of  the  church  bells, 
and  the  steady,  hearty  English  cheers  of  the  crowd 
which  thronged  the  shore,  filling  up  the  pauses  of  the 
cannonade,  and  thrilling  the  multitude  with  new  en- 
thusiasm. Nothing  could  be  grander  than  the  specta- 
cle presented  by  the  land-locked  harbor,  covered  with 
vessels  and  enveloped  in  dense  smoke  above,  and  be- 
neath which  tha  cannons  of  the  fort  and  the  shipping, 
pushed  their  quick,  bright  flashes,  while  every  now 


22 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


■  '   i!;l 


and  then,  the  smoke  lifted  and  disclosed  the  city, 
gay  with  thousands  of  flags,  and  the  wharves  lined 
with  people,  in  vari-colored  dresses,  lightened  by 
the  last  golden  beams  of  the  sunshine,  which  touched 
with  their  magic  pencil  the  smoke,  the  church  spires, 
the  summits  of  the  hills,  the  many-hued  flags,  and  lent 
a  new  beauty  to  the  imposing  spectacle.  As  soon  as 
the  Hero  cast  anchor  in  the  harbor.  Major  Grant,  the 
commandant  of  the  garrison,  with  Lieutenant  Coen, 
the  aid  of  Governor  Bannerman,  went  on  board  and 
submitted  to  the  Prince  the  programme  for  his  recep- 
tion. The  Prince*announced  that  he  would  land  the 
next  morning  at  ten  o'clock,  and  as  soon  as  this  intel- 
ligence became  known  on  shore,  the  crowd  poured 
back  from  the  wharves  and  thronged  the  streets  of 
tlie  city.  St.  John's  appeared  fairly  transformed. 
What  had  before  been  preparation,  was  now  comple- 
tion, and  every  house  was  decorated  with  flags,  the 
principal  streets  were  crossed  by  arches  of  everr 
green,  with  loyal  inscriptions,  and  thousands  of  people 
from  the  surrounding  villages,  kept  pouring  into  the 
city  during  the  night.  The  rejoicing  was  universal 
and  enthusiastic,  and  every  one  seemed  anxious  to  do 
his  best  to  add  to  the  eclat  of  the  reception  the  next 
day. 

St.  John's,  so  gay  the  night  before,  could  hardly  be 
recognized  in  the  sorry  picture  it  presented  the  next 
morning,  which,  of  all  others,  should  have  been  the 
most  brilliant.  During  the  night,  the  wind  had 
changed,  the  sky  frowned  with  most  gloomy  clouds, 
and  a  brisk  rain  pelted  the  gay  dressings  of  the  town, 
as  if  in  derision  of  the  whole  affair.  Never  did  the 
town  look  more  woe-begone  and  bedrenched.  The 
flags  clung  to  their  stafl's  or  draggled  miserably  along 
the  roofs,  the  streets  were  almost  entirely  deserted, 
the  dull-colored  houses  seemed  doubly  gloomy,  the 
streets  were  guttered  by  miniature  rivers  running 
muddilj  along,  the  waters  of  the  harbor  were  as  dirty 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


23 


looking  as  if  it  were  but  an  immense  puddle,  and  the 
ships  loomed  drearily  through  the  mist  like  spectres 
of  unfortunate  men-of-war.  Ten  o'clock  approached. 
The  most  sanguine  could  discern  no  tokens  of  fair 
weather,  and  notliing  remained  but  to  postpone  the 
landing  for  an  hour  or  two,  to  gratify  those  who  still 
hoped  against  hope.  To  this  the  Prince  consented, 
and  the  order  was  issued  to  prepare  to  receive  tlie 
Prince  at  noon.  Anxious  faces  of  ladies  in  Sunday 
finery,  of  volunteers  in  brilliant  costumes,  of  officials 
excited  almost  to  desperation  at  having  cold  water 
thus  thrown  upon  a  celebration  which  had  cost  them 
so  much  labor  and  expense,  were  pressed  against  the 
window  panes  in  hopeless  hope.  Half-past  eleven 
o'clock  came,  and  still  the  rain  came  down,  and  the 
weatherwise  avoided  all  inquiries,  and  could  give  no 
hopes  of  better  things.  The  ladies  were  determined 
to  have  the  celebration  however,  and,  with  umbrellas, 
overcoats,  and  pattens,  trooped  down  to  the  Queen's 
wharf,  and  filled  the  tiers  of  seats  erected  for  their 
accommodation.  The  men  mustered  in  fewer  num- 
bers, and  the  military  were  not  to  be  seen.  Barriers 
had  been  erected  across  the  street,  above  and  below 
the  wharf,  to  prevent  a  crowd  of  spectators,  and  these 
were  guarded  by  policemen,  who  enjoyed  the  rain  and 
their  sinecure,  and  had  no  one  to  keep  back  or  arrest. 
The  members  of  the  Committee  of  Arrangements  ran 
about  in  the  most  deplorable  frame  of  mind,  and  seri- 
ously contemplating  suicide.  Suddenly,  at  a  quarter 
before  noon,  the  rain  ceased,  a  gleam  of  sunshine  light- 
ened up  all  faces,  the  clouds  parted,  and  cleared  away 
like  a  curtain,  and  in  an  instant  the  city  and  harbor 
were  brilliant  with  glorious  light,  which  flashed  back 
in  new  brightness  from  the  rain  drops.  The  Queen's 
and  the  surrounding  wharves  rapidly  filled  with  spec- 
tators. The  roofs  of  the  commanding  buildings  and 
the  rigging  of  the  vessels  were  crowded.  The  com- 
panies of  volunteer  riflemen  guarded  the  approaches 


24 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


to  the  wharf.  The  policemen  mustered  iu  full  force 
and  were  fully  occupied  in  keeping  back  the  throng 
and  clearing  the  pathway  for  the  Prince.  Tlie  hold- 
ers of  tickets  jammed  the  seats  reserved  for  them. 
The  societies  with  their  insignia,  were  drawn  up  out- 
side the  gate  with  the  children  of  the  public  schools. 
The  governor,  the  bishops,  judges,  officers,  civil  and 
military  members  of  the  Assembly,  foreign  consuls, 
and  the  officers  of  the  Sesostris,  took  their  assigned 
positions  in  order  of  rank.  Hawsers  were  extended 
from  the  wharf  one  hundred  fathoms  into  the  harbor, 
and  along  these  were  moored  a  number  of  small  boats, 
loaded  with  spectators,  and  forming  a  lane  leading  to 
the  wharf.  The  wharf  is  semi-eliptical  in  shape,  and 
around  it  were  arranged  vari-colored  bannerets.  To 
the  right  was  the  landing  place  of  the  Prince,  from 
which  a  raised  path,  carpeted  with  crimson  cloth,  led 
to  the  gateway,  over  which  was  a  magnificent  arch  of 
evergreens,  with  the  inscriptions  :  "  Welcome,"  and 
"  God  Save  the  Queen,"  and  the  royal  initials  and 
Prince's  motto,  "  Icli  dien,"  /  serve.  Along  this 
pathway  were  drawn  up  the  Newfoundland  Corps,  as 
a  guard  of  honor,  tlie  dignitaries  and  invited  guests. 
To  the  left  of  the  wharf  were  the  seats  for  ladies,  and 
the  tout  ensemUe  was  most  brilliant  and  animated. 
The  royal  salute  from  the  Ariadne  announced  that  the 
Prince  had  entered  his  barge,  and  in  a  moment  after 
the  boat  rounded  the  Hero,  and  was  seen  pulling  swift- 
ly to  the  landing,  j.  ^ain  the  air  was  rent  with  the 
thunder  of  cannon,  tlie  jangling  of  bells  and  the  cheers 
of  excited  thousands,  which  grew  louder  and  more  en- 
thusiastic as  the  Prince  landed,  and  was  welcomed  to 
St.  John's  by  Governor  Bannerman.  The  Prince  was 
dressed  in  the  uniform  of  an  English  colonel,  and  his 
appearance  captivated  all  hearts.  As  he  proceeded 
up  the  scarlet  pathway  to  his  carriage,  the  band  struck 
up  the  magnificent  national  anthem,  the  cheers  re- 
doubled, the  demonstrations  of  enthusiasm  became  al- 


THE   PRINCK   OF   WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


25 


most  frantic,  and  all  rose  from  their  fjeata  as  tlic  Prince 
courteously  and  gracefully  acknowledged  their  wel- 
come by  bowing  to  tlie  right  and  left,  as  lie  walked  on, 
and  waved  hats  and  handkerchiefs,  and  shouted  huzzas 
and  blessings  in  a  perfect  tumult  of  excitement.  Tho 
Prince  was  accompanied  by  his  suite,  consisting  of  tho 
Duke  of  Newcastle,  Secretary  of  State  for  the  Colo- 
nics, the  Earl  of  St.  Germains,  Lord  Steward  of  ller 
Majesty's  household,  Major  Teesdalc,  and  Capt.  Grey, 
equerries  in  waiting,  and  Dr.  Acland,  the  Prince's 
physician.  Having  reached  the  gateway,  the  Princo 
and  suite  entered  the  carriages  provided  for  them,  Gov. 
Bannerman  riding  with  the  Prince,  and  proceeded  to 
the  Government  House  in  procession. 

As  the  Prince  passed  along  the  street,  the  bishops 
and  clergy,  the  judges,  members  of  the  House  of  As- 
sembly, officers  of  the  garrison,  and  officers  of  the 
French  steamer,  fell  into  line,  followed  by  the  three 
rifle  companies,  and  societies  in  order  of  seniority. 

The  cortege  passed  through  several  streets,  which 
were  decorated  with  flags  and  arches  of  evergreens, 
and  lined  with  people,  who  kept  up  an  uninterrupted 
cheer,  which  the  Prince  gracefully  acknowledged,  and 
at  length  passed  through  a  magnificent  triumphal  arch 
and  entered  the  government  grounds,  the  entrance  to 
which  was  surrounded  by  an  evergreen  bower.  The 
lawn  was  covered  with  people,  and  in  front  of  the 
governor's  mansion  was  drawn  up  the  Prince's  Guard, 
a  company  of  one  hundred  boys,  dressed  in  the  uniform 
of  a  volunteer  corps,  and  a  number  of  tlie  children 
belonging  to  the  Sabbath  schools,  dressed  in  white  and 
with  wreaths  of  flowers.  Amid  the  huzzas  of  the  mul- 
titude the  Prince  entered,  through  fUes  of  soldierv,  the 
Government  House,  an  immense  stone  building,  erect- 
ed at  a  cost  of  over  a  million  of  dollars,  and  command- 
ing a  splendid  view  of  St.  John's  and  the  surrounding' 
country.  This  building  is  used  as  the  residence  of  the 
governor,  and  was  luxuriantly  refitted  for  the  occa- 

2 


26 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  :   OR, 


ii  < 


'■  !  ■     !   ^ 


sion  of  the  Prince's  visit.  The  Prince  took  his  place 
upon  a  dais  in  the  iraraense  drawing-room,  with  the 
Earl  of  St.  Germains  on  his  right,  and  the  Duke  of 
Newcastle  on  his  left.  Addresses  were  then  present- 
ed from  the  Bishop  of  Newfoundland  and  his  clergy, 
from  the  Roman  Catholic  bishop  and  clergy,  from  the 
inhabitants  of  St.  John's  and  Harbor  Grace,  from  the 
Council  and  Assembly,  and  from  the  various  societies. 

The  addresses  having  been  disposed  of,  the  Prince 
held  a  levee  in  the  drawing-rooms  of  the  mansion,  at 
which  about  two  hundred  gentlemen,  comprising  the 
elite  of  Newfoundland  society,  were  introduced.  These 
gentlemen  had,  according  to  the  regulations,  previously 
registered  their  names  with  the  Committee  of  Ar- 
rangements, and  each  was  announced  by  the  equerry 
in  waiting  as  he  entered  the  room.  The  ceremonies 
consisted  simply  in  an  introduction  of  each  gentleman 
to  the  Prince  by  name.  His  Highness  bowing  as  each 
name  was  called.  The  levee,  however,  afforded  all  an 
opportunity  to  observe  the  personnel  of  the  Prince, 
whose  graceful  affability  had  before  delighted  them. 

Immediately  after  the  levee  was  broken  up,  the 
Prince  reviewed  the  Royal  Newfoundland  and  the 
Yolunteer  Corps — the  crowd  cheering  him  wherever 
he  appeared.  In  the  afternoon  he  appeared  on  horse- 
back, in  citizen's  dress,  riding  with  perfect  grace  ;  and 
attended  only  by  his  suite,  he  visited  Waterford  Bridge, 
about  three  miles  from  the  city.  The  route  was  lined 
with  spectators,  and  the  Prince  seemed  carried  for- 
ward by  unceasing  waves  of  cheers.  The  houses  along 
the  road  were  gay  with  flags,  and  across  the  road  were 
fine  arches  of  evergreen,  with  mottoes  and  devices — 
prominent  among  which  were  the  Prince's  crest  and 
plumes.  The  Prince  atid  his  suite  were  much  gratified 
by  the  view  from  Topsail  Road.  The  elements  of 
Newfoundland  scenery  are  very  simple,  but  combine 
most  beautifully.  Hills  dimpled  with  lakes,  a  great 
deal  of  sky,  a  little  evergreen,  and  much  rock — these 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


27 


are  the  components  of  views  unsurpassed  on  this  con- 
tinent. 

In  the  evening  a  State  dinner  was  given  at  the  Gov- 
ernment House,  at  half-past  eight  o'clock.  Arches 
across  the  streets,  the  churches,  and  public  buildinf^s, 
and  many  private  residences,  were  most  brilliantly 
illuminated,  and  all  over  the  city  fire-works  were  dis- 
played in  lavish  profusion,  the  most  beautiful  display 
being  given  from  the  Colonial  House.  From  the  gov- 
ernor's mansion  the  scene  was  bewilderingly  beautiful. 
The  streets  of  the  city  were  marked  by  rows  of  lamps, 
and  spanned  by  arches  of  living  flame,  while,  rising  in 
stately  columns  of  light,  the  larger  edifices  shut  in  the 
view,  and  brilliant  rockets  and  balls  of  flame  leaped 
up  to  the  dark  dome  of  the  sky  in  tracks  of  viviu  light. 

Wednesday  was  a  fine  clear  day,  and  at  an  early 
hour  the  population  was  astir  to  renew  the  festivities 
in  honor  of  the  Prince's  arrival.  The  people  of  the 
surrounding  villages  completely  deserted  their  homes 
and  avocations,  and  flocked  to  St.  John's,  where  all 
business  was  suspended.  At  an  early  hour  Sir  Fran- 
cis Brady,  the  chairman  of  the  Committee  of  Arrange- 
ments, waited  upon  the  Prince,  and  on  behalf  of  the 
people  of  the  colony,  presented  him  with  a  fine  New- 
foundland dog,  of  large  size,  and  of  the  rarest  breed, 
and  wearing  upon  his  powerful  neck  a  massive  silver 
collar. 

The  Prince  said  that  he  was  delighted  with  his  dog, 
and  that  he  had  been  wishi  ;'  for  just  such  a  one  dur- 
ing his  passage  from  England.  He  remarked  that  he 
would  like  to  give  the  dog  a  name  which  would  please 
the  people  of  Newfoundland — some  name  connected 
with  the  history  of  tlie  island.  Chief  Justice  Brady 
suggested  "Avalon."  The  Prince  replied  tliat  this 
was  tlie  name  of  but  one  portion  of  the  colony,  and 
that  he  should  call  his  dog  "  Cabot,"  after  the  discov- 
erer of  Newfoundland.  The  gentlemen  present  seemed 
no  loss  surprised  t.Aau  delighted  at  this  display  of  the 


28 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;    OR, 


I 


I   'M 


Prince's  knowledge  of  their  colonial  liistory,  and  ex- 
changed looks  of  profound  admiration.  The  dog  was 
sent  on  board  the  Hero,  and  safely  secured  to  prevent 
his  leaving  his  royal  master,  for  whose  service  lie 
seemed  to  have  no  inclination,  and  rejoining  his  more 
humble  but  older  acquaintances  on  tlie  south  side  of 
tlie  harbor. 

During  the  forenoon  the  Prince  and  suite,  attended 
by  Governor  Bannerman,  rode  on  horseback  to  Portu- 
gal Cove,  ?  fishing  station  about  nine  miles  from  St. 
John's,  in  the  direction  opposite  to  that  taken  during 
the  ride  the  day  before.  The  road  to  the  Cove  is  a 
very  excellent  one,  and  winds  most  picturesquely  over 
the  hills  and  around  the  mimic  lakes  which  diversify 
the  view,  passing  through  bits  of  evergreen  woods, 
and  displaying  at  almost  every  turn  some  beautiful 
little  vista  or  rare  nook  secluded  among  the  hills. 
From  Portugal  Cove  a  fine  view  may  be  obtained  of 
Conception  Bay,  with  its  cluster  of  islands  shadowing 
in  the  distance.  Indeed,  the  whole  vicinity  of  this 
Cove  abounds  in  romantic  beauty,  and  was  much  ad- 
mired by  the  party.  The  buildings  along  the  whole 
route  were  gayly  decorated  ;  every  farm-yard  had  its 
flagstaff  and  ensign,  and  the  Prince  was  enthusiastic- 
iilly  cheered  by  the  residents  along  the  road  and  at 
Portugal  Cove. 

Upon  their  return  to  town  the  Prince  and  suite  vis- 
ited the  Episcopal  Cathedral,  a  fine  stone  building  of 
the  Gothic  style  of  architecture,  and,  after  a  brief  stay, 
proceeded  to  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral,  which 
occupies  a  most  commanding  position  upon  a  hill  at 
the  rear  of  the  town.  The  church  is  flanked  by  con- 
vents and  by  the  residence  of  Bishop  Mullock,  and  is 
built  of  light-colored  stone,  in  the  Koman  Basillican 
style  uf  architecture.  It  was  crowded  to  its  fullest 
capacity  upon  the  occasion  of  the  Prince's  visit,  and  as 
he  entered  the  building,  the  magnificent  organ,  tlie 
fourteenth  in  size  in  the  world,  pealed  forth  the  an- 


» 


THE   PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


29 


n'th  the  an- 


them "  God  Save  the  Queen,"  and  the  rich  strains 
blended  in  harmonious  thunder  with  the  cheers  of  the 
populace.  Upon  the  Prince's  return  to  Government 
House,  the  streets  alonoj  the  route  were  crowded  with 
people,  and  he  was  followed  by  hearty  acclamations, 
wliich  he  acknowledged  as  he  rode  on,  attended  by 
his  brilliant  suite. 

In  the  afternoon  a  regatta  was  given  at  Lake  Quidi 
Vidi,  about  half  a  mile  from  St.  John's,  and  nine  prizes 
were  contended  for  by  oared  boats.  The  races  were 
not  particularly  interesting  or  well  contested,  but  the 
scene  around  the  lake  well  repaid  a  visit.  The  lake 
is  small,  but  deep,  and  is  delightfully  located.  All 
around  the  lake  were  groups  of  spectators,  and  booths 
of  gay-colored  stuffs  flaunting  rich  flags  in  the  sun- 
sliine,  wliich  flashed  upon  the  waters  of  the  lake  its 
sunniest  smiles.  Wiien  the  Prince  appeared  the  cheer- 
ing was  deafening,  and  as  he  drove  around  the  lake 
his  carriage  was  followed  by  enthusiastic  thousands, 
shouting  the  most  laudatory  and  loyal  observations. 
The  pressure  was  enormous,  and  it  Avas  almost  impos- 
sible for  the  police  to  clear  a  way  for  the  Prince,  who 
stood  up  in  his  carriage,  smiling  and  bowing  in  the 
most  approved  style.  "  We  will  sec  him,"  "  He's  only 
to  be  iiere  one  day,"  "  Sure,  he's  as  safe  as  if  in  his 
mother's  parlor,"  the  crowd  called  out,  the  ladies  be- 
ing especially  noticeable  with  their  shrill  outcries. 
Tiie  Prince  soon  tired  of  this  homage,  however,  and 
tlie  party  drove  off;  and,  at  His  Highness'  request, 
inspected  a  fishing-station,  or  "  room,"  as  it  is  technic- 
ally called,  where  he  observed  the  various  operations 
of  bringing  in,  decapitation,  splitting,  salting,  washing 
out,  drying,  and  packing,  to  which  the  codfish  is  sub- 
jected, seeming  to  be  greatly  interested,  and  glad  to 
learn  something  of  the  means  by  which  Newfoundland's 
wealth  is  acquired.  The  Prince  was  not  subjected  to 
the  usual  boot  oiling  which  attends  a  visit  to  these 
"  rooms,"  but  some  of  his  followers  were  not  so  for- 


i!iin  iff' 


I 


m^ 


%■  ■': 


*v 


80 


ROYALTT  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


tunate,  and  were  obliged  to  pay  a  douceur  for  the 
privilege  of  having  a  greasy  hand  smeared  across 
their  patent  leathers.  A  ride  to  Signal  Hill,  cele- 
brated for  many  desperate  combats  between  the  En- 
glish and  the  French,  from  whence  a  fine  view  of  the 
surrounding  country  may  be  obtained,  concluded  the 
afternoon's  excursion,  and  the  Prince  returned  to  the 
Government  House  to  dine. 

In  the  evening  the  grand  reception  ball  took  place 
at  the  Colonial  House  or  Capitol.  A  pavilion  of  wood 
was  erected  as  a  wing  to  the  building,  and  was  used 
as  a  ball-room.  The  room  was  hung  with  alternate 
red  and  white  bunting,  and  was  neatly  and  tastefully 
decorated  with  flags  and  pictures.  The  Prince's  ar- 
rival having  occurred  two  days  before  it  was  antici- 
pated, the  arrangements  were  necessarily  hurried,  and 
the  decorations  fell  short  of  what  was  intended,  but 
were  sufficient  to  satisfy  the  most  fastidious  require- 
ment. A  dais,  carpeted  with  crimson,  and  with  the 
Prince's  arms  above  it,  occupied  the  further  extremity 
of  the  room. 

The  ball  was  a  public  one,  a  limited  number  of 
tickets  being  sold  at  five  dollars  each,  and  the  attend- 
ance consequently  embraced  representatives  of  all 
classes  and  conditions.  As  the  Prince  and  his  suite, 
at  ten  o'clock,  entered  the  chamber  used  as  a  reception 
room,  the  bands  of  the  Hero  and  the  Newfoundland 
Corps  struck  up  the  national  anthem,  and  amid  the 
wildest  cheers  he  reached  the  dais  at  the  head  of  the 
chamber.  After  a  brief  conversation  with  his  attend- 
ants, the  Prince  and  the  company  entered  the  ball- 
room, where  his  reception  was  overwhelming,  and  the 
ball  was  formally  opened. 

The  Prince  danced  quadrilles,  the  lancers,  polkas, 
waltzes,  and  a  gallop,  being  upon  the  floor  twelve  times. 
It  is  almost  impossible  to  describe  this  ball,  for  from 
different  points  of  observation  it  presented  very  dif- 
ferent aspects.    Regarded  as  the  best  that  the  New 


:!:!!!!' 


JtH. 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


81 


foundlandcrs  could  do,  it  was  certainly  deserving  of 
every  praise  ;  but  regarded  comparatively  and  on  its 
merits,  it  was  equal  to  the  most  ridiculous  scene  tha*; 
ever  Rabelais,  Cervantes,  Smollett,  or  Dickens  im- 
agined in  their  merriest  moods.  The  Prince,  dressed 
in  the  uniform  of  a  British  colonel,  occupied,  when  not 
dancing,  the  dais  at  the  extremity  of  the  room.  The 
two  bands  were  located  in  niches  opposite  each  other, 
and  alternated  their  music.  At  first  the  dancing  was 
conducted  with  great  ceremony,  but  with  little  grace, 
but  as  the  evening  wore  on,  and  supper  was  over,  the 
dancers  warmed  to  their  work,  and  the  fun  began. 
Not  one  person  out  of  twenty  in  the  room  knew  any- 
thing about  dancing,  and  the  confusion  at  the  plebeian 
end  of  the  hall  became  almost  inextricable,  but  was 
prevented  from  spreading  over  the  entire  room  by  tho 
exertions  of  the  Prince's  body-guard  of  volunteers. 
Every  few  minutes  the  Prince  would  be  cheered,  and 
at  every  dance  he  selected  a  new  partner.  The  Prince 
danced  very  gracefully,  conversed  with  his  partners 
during  the  pauses  of  the  figures,  and  escorted  them  to 
their  guardians,  but  not  to  their  seats,  politely  avoid- 
ing the  attempts  made  by  some  of  the  ladies,  in  defi- 
ance of  etiquette,  to  take  his  arm. 

Towards  the  end  of  the  ball  the  stewards  became 
less  careful  of  those  who  danced  in  the  set  with  the 
Prince,  and  now  began  the  laughable  faux  fas.  A 
tall  ensign,  with  a  very  red  head,  insisted  on  blunder- 
ing himself  ae^ainst  the  Prince  and  his  partner  ;  a  vol- 
unteer danced  about  with  the  delightful  idea  that  he 
was  doing  his  duty,  and  unconscious  that  he  was  out 
of  time,  out  of  place,  and  out  of  the  figure  ;  a  very  tall 
man  succeeded  in  waltzing  his  partner  until  she  became 
giddy  enough  to  fall  at  the  Prince's  feet ;  and  bobbing 
up  and  down,  over  the  room,  were  flushed,  anxious 
faces,  regarding  partners  who  would  go  wrong,  or  who 
were  obstinately  right.  The  Prince  could  not  avoid 
laughing  outright  at  these  mishaps,  but  continued  to 


m\ 


!ii.:ii 


),!  If  >|i< 


32 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD;   OR, 


dance,  good-naturedly  correctinp;  mistakes,  and  calling 
out  the  liguros  to  the  awkward  squad  before  liim.  In 
these  eflbrts  lie  w^as  aided  by  a  little  mite  of  a  mid- 
shipman, a  boyish  sprig  of  nobility,  who  persisted  in 
dancing  with  the  largest  ladies  he  could  find,  and  thus 
increased  the  general  merriment.  Altogether,  if  the 
Prince  did  not  iind  at  the  ball  the  refinement  and  the 
beautiful  dancing  to  which  he  had  been  accustomed  at 
court,  he  found,  probably,  more  genuine  and  hearty 
enjoyment,  and  he  remained  very  late.  The  ball  broke 
up  almost  immediately  after  the  young  Prince  had  de- 
parted, followed  by  repeated  cheers. 

The  next  morning  dawned  bright  and  clear,  and  the 
little  town,  in  its  holiday  dress,  was  thronged  with 
people  striving  to  obtain  positions  from  which  they 
migiit  take  a  last  long  look  at  tiie  heir  apparent,  who, 
in  the  meantime,  was  taking  his  leave  at  the  Govern- 
ment House. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  chiming  of  the  Cathedral  bells 
announced  that  the  Prince  was  about  to  start  for  the 
wharf,  and  tlie  streets  crossing  the  route  were  thronged 
with  people,  and  the  various  societies  and  corps  of 
soldiery  were  drawn  up  upon  the  government  lawn. 
When  the  Prince,  accompanied  by  the  Earl  St.  Ger- 
mains  and  Sir  and  Lady  Banncrman,  entered  the  car- 
riage, the  air  was  rent  with  shouts,  and  darkened  with 
hats  and  handkerchiefs.  Suddenly  a  body  of  men 
rushed  forward,  detached  the  horses  from  the  carriage, 
and  the  Prince,  having  graciously  acceded  to  the  wish 
of  the  people,  a  stout  rope  was  hooked  on,  and  about 
two  hundred  men,  after  a  smart  scramble  for  the  honor 
of  places,  formed  into  line,  and  drew  the  carriage,  at 
the  head  of  the  procession,  to  the  wharf  gate.  The 
procession  was  the  same  as  at  the  landing,  and  the  ar- 
rangements upon  the  wliarf  were  precisely  similar,  ex- 
cept that  the  chief  officers  of  the  British  ships  took 
their  stations  also  at  the  landing  steps.  The  Prince 
entered  the  wharf,  bowing  to  the  tremendous  shouts 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


33 


which  greeted  him,  and  amid  the  tliunders  of  cannon, 
the  ringing  of  bells,  tlie  music  of  the  bands,  the  cheers 
from  sliip  and  shore,  he  took  his  leave  of  Lady  Banner- 
man  and  the  officers  of  tlie  government,  stepped  into 
the  Hero's  barge,  and  flew  across  the  water  to  the 
noble  liner  whicli  was  to  convey  him  to  Halifax.  A 
moment  after,  the  hundreds  of  naval  Blondins  and  De 
Laves  who  had  been  manning  the  yards  of  the  men-of- 
war,  swarmed  down  the  rigging,  the  salutes  ceased, 
the  royal  ensign  slowly  rose  to  the  Hero's  mast,  and 
one  by  one  the  royal  steamers  sailed  through  the  Nar- 
rows, and  disappeared  from  the  sight  of  the  Newfound- 
landers. As  tlicy  passed  out  of  the  harbor,  the  Prince 
was  greeted  with  a  unique  salute,  in  the  form  of  a  sub- 
marine blast,  by  the  workmen  engaged  in  removing 
the  Raby  Rock. 

The  royal  fleet  called  on  Saturday  at  Sidney,  in 
Nova  Scotia,  for  coals  for  the  Hero.  At  the  landing 
place  the  Prince  was  received  by  three  volunteers, 
hastily  collected,  and  by  an  old  woman,  who  over- 
whelmed the  Prince  with  garrulous  blessings.  Away 
posted  the  volunteers  to  coUectiheir  forces,  and  finally 


succeeded  in  getting 


together 


about  thirty,  in  some 


sort  of  uniform,  but  with  no  two  hats  alike.  Sidney, 
be  it  known,  is  probably  the  only  finished  city  in  the 
world.  A  place  more  completely  used  up  could  scarce- 
ly be  imagined,  and  cannot  be  described.  Around  it 
stretch  wide  barrens  ;  and  as  the  Prince  rode  across 
these  to  the  town,  which  has  but  a  few  hundred  inhab- 
itants, he  encountered  a  tribe  of  Micmac  Indians,  the 
first  that  he  had  ever  seen.  With  every  indication  of 
curiosity,  the  Prince  dismounted,  entered  and  exam- 
ined the  tents  of  the  Lidians,  conversed  with  them, 
and  made  several  purchases  of  moccasins.  The  com- 
pany, with  the  Prince,  then  entered  the  town,  where 
the  inhabitants  gave  a  dozen  faint  cheers,  and  the  vol- 
unteers made  a  few  disconsolate  attempts  at  a  parade. 


84 


ItOYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :  OR, 


CHAPTER  III. 


Arrival  at  Halifax— Grand  Military  and  Civic  Display— The  Prince 

Welcomed  by  the  Indians. 

If  I  were  asked  to  name  the  finest  bay  in  North 
America,  I  should  say-  that  of  Halifax.  If  I  were 
asked  to  name  the  most  miserable  city  in  that  country, 
my  reply  would  also  be  Halifax. 

The  former,  which  is  2466  miles  from  Liverpool,  is 
situated  400  miles  nearer  to  the  British  Islands  than 
any  other  port  on  the  continent,  and  while  the  Cana- 
dian harbors  are  blocked  up  with  ice  during  nearly 
half  the  year,  it  is  always  accessible.  From  Halifax 
to  Quebec,  through  British  territory,  the  distance  is 
about  600  miles,  and  from  Halifax  to  Prince  Edward's 
Island,  only  150  miles. 

The  Duke  of  Kent,  father  of  Queen  Victoria,  was 
commander  of  the  British  forces  in  North  America, 
and  stationed  at  Halifax  in  the  year  1799,  and  there 
are  several  now  living  there  who  remember  the  old 
gentleman,  and  who  manifested  much  venerable  de- 
light at  the  prospect  of  seeing  his  grr.ndson  among 
them  after  the  lapse  of  sixty  years. 

If  Albert  Ed«^ard  lives  to  be  King  of  England,  he 
will  not  be  the  first  ruler  of  the  British  realm  who 
once  in  his  life  visited  North  America,  for  William 
IV.,  in  his  early  manhood — and  while  the  third  son 
of  his  father  George  III.,  and  consequently  with  little 
expectation  of  ever  succeeding  to  the  throne — visited 
several  of  these  provinces. 

The  present  Sir  Samuel  Cunard  formerly  worked 
as  a  carpenter  in  the  Ordnance  Department  at  Hali- 
fax ;  and  Haliburton,  of  "  Sam  Slick  "  celebrity,  was 
born  a  few  miles  only  out  of  the  town,  in  which,  I  may 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


35 


—The  Prince 


remark,  murders  are  of  such  rare  occurrence  that  no 
execution  has  taken  place  for  fifteen  years. 

I  will  now  return  to  the  bay,  the  noble  proportions 
of  whicli  would  render  it  magnificent  if  the  scenery  in 
which  it  lies  enframed  was  of  a  more  stupendous  char- 
acter, but  it  lacks  those  classic  heights  which  overhang 
Rio,  Palermo,  and  Naples,  and  the  prospect  afforded 
by  its  shores  is  one  of  extreme  baldness  and  sterility. 

On  entering  it,  the  shores  on  either  side  are  long, 
low,  and  sandy,  and  continue  so  for  several  miles,  after 
which  Sambro,  the  first  signal  station,  is  passed,  and 
the  coast  becomes  a  little  more  elevated,  and  appears 
to  be  made  up  of  a  mass  of  broken  rocks,  between 
wliich  here  and  there  may  be  seen  patches  of  furze  and 
other  hardy  plants  and  shrubs,  while  the  wretched 
wooden  shanty  of  a  fisherman,  and  occasionally  small 
villages  of  such,  in  the  midst  of  which  stands  a  church, 
which  is  to  city  churches  what  a  mouse-trap  is  to  a  ho- 
tel, rise  up  from  the  naked  rocks  upon  which  they  are 
irregularly  perched.  It  would  be  difficult  to  imagine 
anything  more  bleak  and  forlorn,  especially  in  winter 
— and  I  have  seen  it  in  winter — than  this  same  barren 
Nova  Scotian  terra  Jirma,  But,  for  twenty  miles  round 
Halifax,  the  country  is  almost  equally  rocky  and  un- 
cultivated, so  that  the  colony  is  by  no  means  rich  in 
agricultural  promise.  After  passing  the  York  re- 
doubt, which  is  the  second  signal  station,  white  sand- 
stone and  clumps  of  dark,  stunted  pine-trees  distin- 
guish the  western  or  left-hand  shore,  and  red  sand- 
stone and  pines  the  opposite,  or  eastern  one.  Ad- 
vancing, we  pass  Tower  Woods  on  the  left,  which  is 
the  nearest  shore,  for  we  are  sailing  up  the  western 
channel,  the  larger  of  the  two  that  lead  up  to  the 
harbor,  where  a  tower,  pierced  for  cannon,  but  not  in 
use,  stands  embowered  in  the  sombre  foliage  of  the 
pines. 

We  next  come  to  Point  Peasant,  two  miles  from 
Il9,lif^x,  "\vherp  a  couple  of  batteries  point  their  black 


86 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR,   ' 


t  I 
I: 


f  I 


illlli 


i'r 


"'i 


.-inPlllilf 


j^uns  as  if  they  really  meant  to  do  us  mischief.  But 
we  pass  them  unmolested,  and  arc  soon  abreast  of  the 
Eastern  Battery,  so  called  because  it  commands  the 
eastern  channel,  facing  George's  Island,  which  lies  al- 
most parallel  with  McNab's  Island,  the  latter  crowned 
with  a  formidable  round  tower  of  gray  stone. 

McNab's  Island  acts  as  a  breakwater,  and  divides 
the  harbor  within  immediate  view  of  the  town,  which, 
from  the  water,  has  a  very  dingy,  quaint,  and  anti- 
quated appearance.  It  is  backed  by  the  Citadel,  which 
is  the  third  signal  station,  and  has  an  aspect  of  the 
most  commanding  and  impregnable  order. 

There  are  a  few  small  vessels  and  sometimes  a  large 
one,  sailing  up  and  down  the  bay,  and  a  ferry  steamer 
plies  frequently  from  Halifax  to  Dartmouth,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  harbor,  which  is  to  the  city  what 
Cheshire  is  to  Liverpool.  Here  stands  a  conspicuous 
red  brick  building,  which  tempts  the  stranger  to  in- 
quire about  it,  and  his  curiosity  is  rewarded  by  discov- 
ering it  to  be  a  lunatic  asylum. 

On  landing  at  Cunard's  wharf,  a  gloomy  archway 
leads  into  a  narrow  and  dusty  street,  which  is  a  fair 
specimen  of  all  the  other  streets  in  the  town. 

Those  who  have  visited  Kingston,  in  Jamaica,  could 
hardly  foil  to  recognize  a  resemblance  between  the 
streets  of  it  and  Halifax  during  the  summer. 

The  view  from  the  Citadel  is  the  finest  in  Nova  Sco- 
tia, and  embraces  a  wide  sweep  of  country  on  all  sides. 
The  Avagons  or  caleches  of  the  place  drive  up  to  the 
top  of  the  hill,  but  visitors  are  only  allowed  to  enter 
the  Citadel  on  foot.  Within,  however,  there  is  less 
of  general  interest  to  be  seen  than  at  the  Citadel  of 
Quebec.  It  is  used  as  an  infantry  barrack  and  store- 
house. 

The  bublic  buildings  of  Halifax  are  neither  numer- 
ous  nor  imposing.  The  Province  House,  where  the 
Governor,  Lord  Mulgrave,  resides,  is  a  neat,  but  low 
building,  inclosed  within  a  small  garden,  and  here  an 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


37 


artillery  soldier  is  always  on  duty,  to  receive  passen- 
gers and  cards. 

The  Providence  Building,  or  House  of  Assembly,  at 
tlie  corner  of  Holies  and  Granville  Streets,  is  the 
largest  and  best-conditioned  one  in  the  town,  and  is  of 
gray  stone.  Tlie  Wellington  Barracks,  recently  con- 
tructed,  f^re  handsome  and  durable,  but  the  old  South 
Barracks  are  wretched. 

There  are  five  tri-weekly  newspapers  in  Halifax,  but 
not  one  daily. 

The  colony  was  first  settled  in  1749,  and  its  present 
population  is  nearly  300,000  a  number  that,  consider- 
ing the  sterility  of  a  large  portion  of  the  country,  is 
surprisingly  large.  Halifax  itself  has  a  population  of 
32,000. 

The  reception  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  at  Halifax 
was  a  picturesque  and  exciting  scene,  which  is  still  in 
memory  before  me.  In  my  mind's  eye  I  can  see  the 
broad,  heavy  Hero,  of  2800  tons  measurement,  steam- 
ing slowly  past  the  booming  guns  of  the  York  redoubt, 
and  the  smoke  ascending  lazily  from  her  one  huge 
black  funnel,  while  Albert  Edward,  the  hero  of  all 
heroes  of  the  day,  stands  on  her  quarter-deck  in  his 
plain  dark  dress,  and  acknowledges  the  cheers  of  our 
passengers  by  raising  his  cap  and  bowing  with  a  grajce- 
ful  inclination.  The  crew  are  gathered  on  the  main- 
deck,  looking  on  with  their  ordinary  composure,  and 
naval  grandees  in  black  cocked  hats,  red  coats,  and 
white  trowsers,  are,  spy-glasses  in  hand,  standing  and 
moving  about  the  quarter-deck.  The  noble  form  of 
that  best  of  war  steamers — the  two  funneled  Ariadne 
— follows  at  a  short  but  respectful  distance  in  her 
wake.  The  yacht-like  Flying  Pish,  with  her  two  lean- 
ing, cream-colored  funnels  smoking  like  well-drawn 
pipes,  is  coming  uj)  in  the  rear,  and  more  good  look- 
ing gentlemen  in  cocked  hats  and  white  trowsers  are 
to  be  seen  on  her  quarter-deck. 

The  wide-mouthed  guns  of  the  batteries  bid  them 


38 


ROYALTY  IN   THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


iii;  IW 


welcome,  and  the  anxious  multitude  that  stand  on 
yonder  crosstrces  and  on  the  deck  of  the  two  steamers 
wliicli  have  come  out  to  meet  the  royal  squadron,  and 
on  the  wharves  and  vessels  in  port,  and  the  top  of 
Citadel  Hill,  and  wherever  the  human  form  is  seen. 
Thrice  welcome,  say  I,  and  the  band  of  the  steamer 
strikes  up  the  national  anthem,  which  is  listened  to  by 
both  men  and  officers  of  the  Ariadne,  alongside  of 
which  we  are  steaming. 

It  caused  a  pleasant  thrill  to  hear  the  shouts  of  cheer- 
ing, as  the  Hero  passed  the  crowded  wharves,  and  the 
rapid  firing  of  royal  salutes  from  the  Citadel  and  the 
round  tower  on  George's  Island  ;  and  that  of  Tower 
Woods,  was  an  exciting  demonstration,  which  warmed 
the  people  into  exultation,  notwithstanding  the  cold- 
ness of  the  weather  and  the  depressing  effects  of  a 
showery  sky. 

It  was  pretty,  too,  as  the  Hero  wheeled  to  her  moor- 
ings, rounding,  as  she  did  so,  the  Nile,  the  Valorous, 
and  the  Cossack,  to  see  their  yards  manned  by  their, 
brave  crews,  clothed  in  white  duck  and  cheering  and 
waving  their  hats  in  honor  of  their  future  king,  as  he 
stood  on  the  broad  quarter-deck  beneath  them ;  and 
then  looking  up  the  bay  a  little  further  to  see  a  fleet 
of. twelve  canoes,  paddled  by  Indians,  in  their  sub- 
scription clothes  of  blue  and  red,  come  hurrying  to- 
wards us.  *  >«  . 

The  squadron  anchors,  the  drizzling  rain  again  sets 
in,  and  again  subsides,  and  it  is  now  ten  o'clock.  The 
Neptune  lands  her  passengers,  and  I  find  myself  in  the 
streets  again.  They  are  garlanded  with  evergreens, 
and  thickly  intersected  with  arches,  and  every  house 
displays  either  illumination  frames  in  its  windows,  or 
flowers  and  verdure  in  its  front,  or  both.  The  street 
arches,  which  are  all  of  very  substantial  and  tasteful 
build,  number  twenty-seven.  All  these  are  construct- 
ed of  timber  and  decorated  with  a  heavv  covering  of 
spruce.    This  gives  them  a  general  resemblance  ;  bu^ 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


80 


the  devices,  and  in  some  cases  the  architecture,  varies. 
It  is  evident  that  the  hand  of  preparation  has  been 
busy,  and  nothing  has  been  left  undone  that  either  the 
taste  or  opportunities  of  the  inmates  could  devise  for 
giving  Albert  Edward  a  right  hearty,  right  royal  re- 
ception. 

1  traversed  the  streets,  not  in  the  line  of  route,  from 
the  landing  place  at  the  dock-yard,  to  Government 
House,  and  I  found  them  nearly  deserted,  and  I  knew 
that  the  shops  would  be  closed,  and  they  were  closed. 
The  holiday  was  general,  and  all  courted  it  but  the 
cabmen,  and  here  and  there  a  liquor  dealer. 

I  bent  my  steps  up  to  Barrington  Street,  through 
which  the  procession  was  to  pass.  There  I  found  in- 
fantry in  British  red,  and  volunteers  in  sombre  gray, 
lining  the  way  on  either  side  in  long,  single  lile,  and 
I  saw  a  congregation  of  men,  women,  and  children  out- 
side of  the  barriers  imposed  by  these,  while  the  mid- 
dle of  the  road  was  empty  and  in  waiting  for  the  royal 
equestrian  and  the  ranks  which  were  to  follow,  no 
vehicles  boing,  meanwhile,  permitted  on  its  cleared 
precincts. 

After  this  I  retired  to  the  quiet  streets,  which  looked 
like  so  many  avenues  of  green  trees,  and,  hiring  a  cab, 
drove  to  the  dock-yard,  where  I  found  the  Mayor  of 
Montreal,  with  his  conspicuous  chain  of  office  round 
his  neck,  and  hanging  down  as  far  as  his  waist.  And 
I  saw,  also,  clergymen  in  their  Episcopal  robes,  and 
the  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Commons  in  his  black 
gown,  and  I  saw  priests  with  white  bands  round  their 
necks,  and  officers  of  the  army  and  navy  in  their 
bright  uniform  moving  to  and  fro,  while  the  Chief 
Justice  and  Judges,  the  President  and  members  of  the 
Legislative  Council,  the  Speaker  and  members  of  the 
House  of  Assembly,  the  Mayor  and  Corporation,  the 
Custos  and  High  Sheriff,  the  heads  of  Departments  and 
the  members  of  the  Executive  Municipality  Commit- 
tee were  grouped  together  in  the  centre  of  the  yard, 


^0 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


ri! 


near  the  landing  steps,  and  in  full  view  of  the  occu- 
pants of  the  temporary  platforms  which  had  been 
erected  on  each  side. 

Then,  as  the  clock  in  the  yard  pointed  to  within 
eight  minutes  of  the  hour  of  twelve,  I  saw  a  slim  form 
in  military  uniform  step  into  a  white-painted  boat  at 
the  foot  of  the  gangway  steps  of  H.  M.  steamer  Hero, 
and  quickly  following  it  I  saw  that  boat  rowed  by 
brawny  arms  towards  the  dock-yard,  at  tlic  foot  of 
wMch  the  twelve  Indian  canoes  and  their  Indian  pad- 
dlers  lay  idly  in  waiting,  while  their  squaws  and 
children  were  grouped  in  a  prominent  position  of  the 
yard  assigned  to  them.  And  now  listen  to  that  glori- 
ous chorus  of  the  iron-mouthed  guns  of  all  the  batteries 
and  the  six  British  men-of-war  in  harbor,  whose  yards 
are  manned  by  their  cheering  crews,  and  whose  rig- 
/ring  displays  the  flying  flags  of  nations.  What  a  glo- 
rious sight  is  that  when  combined  with  the  scene 
around,  and  what  music  makes  the  nerve  vibrate  like 
the  ringing  boom  of  cannon.  Welcome  to  their  roar, , 
and  while  I  speak,  glance  at  the  multitude  of  anxious, 
eager  eyes  that  rest  upon  the  coming  boat,  whose  oars 
now  cease  their  play.  The  hero  steps  ashore,  and 
there  is  a  loud,  long  cheer  of  unfeigned  rejoicing.  The 
Admiral  of  tlie  fleet  and  Lord  Mulgrave  receive  him, 
and  he  is  led  to  tlie  central  group  of  the  local  digni- 
taries alluded  to. 

The  Mayor  read  an  address.  The  Prince  replied. 
Following  this,  he  mounted  a  charger  ano  -ode  with 
his  suite,  and  a  long  procession  of  societies  on  foot,  to- 
wards Government  House. 

On  arriving  opposite  the  stand  occupied  by  the 
school  children  His  Royal  Highness  halted,  and  the 
three  thousand  five  hundred  struck  up  the  music  of 
their  anthem  : 

God  save  our  gracious  Queen  1  i- 

Long  live  our  noble  Quoeu  I 

God  save  the  Queen  I  '.. 


i   I'M 

'    Hi 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN    AMERICA.  41 

J       ,;       Send  her  victorious,  liappy  and  glorious, 
,     ,.       Long  to  reign  over  us— 
"  '  God  save  the  Queen ! 

Welcome,  our  royal  guest  ; 
;..  ^  Welcome,  from  every  breast — 

From,  every  tongue  ; 
From  hearts  both  warm  and  true — 
Hearts  that  bent  high  for  you, 
*.      Loudly  our  welcome  due  ^ 

-      '  To  thee  be  sung. 

Prince  of  a  lofty  line, 
The  virtues  all  be  thine 

Wliich  grace  the  Queen. 
To  her  we  pay,  through  thee, 
Love,  faith,  and  loyalty — 
,  ,       Homage  which  fits  the  free. 

God  save  the  Queen  I 

The  three  cheers  of  their  tiny  voices  given  at  its 
close,  and  the  butterfly  fluttering  of  tlieir  little  hand- 
kerchiefs, must  have  sent  a  thrill  of  sometliing  akin  to 
rapture  through  the  iieart  of  many  a  mother  among 
the  masses  collected  below. 

On  arriving  at  Government  House  the  Premier  of 
the  House  of  Representatives  read  an  address  in  the 
presence  of  all  the  members,  which  was  responded  to 
by  the  Prince  reading  another. 

After  t!iis  interview  His  Royal  Highness  retired  to 
his  private  apartment,  and  at  four  o'clock  rode  in  plain 
clothes,  accompanied  by  several  of  his  suite.  It  was 
fair  when  he  started,  but  he  was  drenched  with  rain 
before  returning.  At  half-past  seven  he  sat  down  to 
dinner  with  forty -six  others,  the  guests  of  Government 
House. 

On  the  following  morning  preparations  were  made 
for  a  grand  review  of  the  regular  and  volunteer 
troops. 

At  an  early  hour  the  volunteer  companies  assembled 
at  their  respective  barrack  rooms,  and  at  ten  o'clock 
tliey  were  in  attendance  at  tlie  Pavilion  Barrack  Square, 
under  their  several  commanders,  where  they  were  put 


12 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


iilii 


through  a  variety  of  evolutions.    Meanwhile,  the  "  reg- 
ulars" were  inarching  from  the  Citadel  and  other  mili- 
tary quarters  towards  the  Common,  the  scene  of  the 
review.     Soon  after  ten  the  commandant  of  the  volun 
teers  took  command  of  the  battalion,  and  after  going 
through  the  customary  duty  of  equalizing  companies 
and  numbering  oflf  divisions,  the  entire  battalion  di 
rected  their  course  to  the  Common,  a  few  minutes  be 
fore  eleven  o'clock.      On  arriving  there  they  were 
formed  into  line  on  the  left  of  the  regular  troops,  and 
combined,   they  extended   the  whole  length  of  the 
ground,  and  presented  a  most  imposing  appearance. 

About  this  time — at  a  quarter  to  eleven — His  Royal 
Highness  left  Government  House,  in  his  colonel's  uni- 
form, accompanied  by  Lord  Mulgrave,  in  the  blue  and 
gold  of  his  official  dress,  and  his  suite.  Along  the  line 
of  route  of  the  Common  he  was  greeted  almost  raptur- 
ously by  the  thousands  wlio  had  assembled  to  catch  a 
glimpse  of  his  person.  The  firemen  and  axemen  form- 
ed in  open  order  along  Spring  Garden  Road,  and  as 
His  Royal  Highness  passed,  they  lollowed  behind  his 
staff. 

On  arriving  at  the  Common  at  a  few  minutes  past 
eleven,  where  about  fifteen  thousand  people  had  assem- 
bled, he  was  received  with  a  burst  of  enthusiasm  such 
as  never  before  awoke  the  echoes  in  Nova  Scotia.  The 
royal  standard  was  then  hoisted  at  the  eastern  side  of 
the  review-ground,  and  here  the  Prince  and  his  party 
took  up  their  position. 

After  the  combined  troops  were  formed  into  review 
order,  His  Royal  Highness,  accompanied  by  the  Duke 
of  Newcastle,  the  Earl  of  Mulgrave,  Commander-in- 
chief  of  the  Volunteers,  the  Earl  of  St.  Germains, 
General  Trollope,  and  the  remainder  of  the  staffs,  num- 
bering in  all  more  than  twenty,  rode  slowly  past  the 
ranks,  and  was  received  with  the  usual  general  salute, 
the  wliolc  presenting  arms  together.  This  being  over, 
the  regulars  and  volunteers  formed  into  open  column, 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   TN   AMERICA. 


43 


earance. 


right  in  front — the  regulars  leading  off — and  marched 
past  the  royal  standard,  on  the  right  of  wliich  the 
Prince  was  stationed,  in  slow  and  quick  time.  After 
this  the  whole  formed  into  line  and  quarter  distance 
column,  and  marched  to  the  front.  The  regulars  were 
then  moved  off  the  ground,  and  the  volunteers,  which 
included  a  company  of  negroes,  facetiously  called  the 
Greeley  Guard,  were,  in  presence  of  His  Royal  High- 
ness and  staff,  put  through  numerous  evolutions  by 
their  captain.  On  the  conclusion  of  the  review  the 
battalion  formed  into  three-quarter  distance  column, 
and  three  cheers  were  given  for  His  Royal  Highness 
with  great  unction. 

At  this  moment  I  saw  a  long  line  of  uplifted  bayo- 
nets glittering  in  the  sun,  and  on  the  points  of  these 
the  uniform  caps  of  every  man  of  the  battalion,  the 
variegated  plumes  of  which  enhanced  the  picturesque 
effect. 

His  Royal  Highness  then  rode  off  the  review  ground 
in  the  midst  of  the  most  enthusiastic  cheering  from  the 
multitude  surrounding  the  reserved  space,  and  under 
a  salute  from  the  Volunteer  Artillery. 

After  leaving  the  review-ground  the  Prince  visited 
the  Citadel,  and  then  returned  to  Government  House 
to  lunch.         »?  , 

In  the  course  of  the  afternoon  he  rode  out  to  the 
Common  again,  in  plain  dress,  and  witnessed  the  rural 
sports  there  going  forward  ;  the  racing  and  the  Indian 
war-dance,  performed  by  the  remnant  of  the  Mic  Mac 
tribe,  in  particular  attracted  his  attention. 

The  Prince  dined  with  a  large  party  at  Govern- 
ment House  at  half-past  seven,  and  at  lialf-past  nine  in 
the  evening  he  led  Lady  Mulgrave  into  the  ball-room 
at  the  Province  Building,  which  had  been  showily  and 
tastefully  fitted  up  for  the  occasion. 

The  ball-room,  lined  witli  red  and  wliite  cloth,  and 
suitable  hangings  over  appropriate  devices,  inclosing 
Latin  mottoes,  and  filled  with  the  bright  uniforms  of 


44 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;    OR, 


ii'i 


military  and  naval  officers,  and  ladies  whose  exquisite 
toilets  were  worthy  of  the  saloons  of  London  and 
Paris,  presented  a  very  gay  and  elegant  appearance. 
So  also  did  the  main  corridor  leadins:  from  the  ball- 
room  to  the  supper-room,  where  the  flags  of  all  na- 
tions, hanging  at  the  sides  and  overhead,  and  well 
lighted  up,  had  a  very  pretty  appearance. 

The  Prince,  after  the  members  of  the  Legislature 
and  public  service  present  had  filed  past  him  in  the 
ball-room,  led  off  the  ball  in  a  quadrille,  his  partner 
being  the  niece  of  the  Premier  or  President  of  the 
Council. 

At  eleven  o'clock  he  led  Lady  Mulgrave  to  the  re- 
freshment room,  and  at  one  to  supper,  when  the  toasts 
of  the  Queen,  Prince  Consort,  and  Prince  of  Wales 
were  respectively  proposed  and  responded  to  with  im- 
mense cheering  from  the  thousand  guests  present,  who, 
I  may  remark,  were  without  exception  in  strict  even- 
ing dress,  including  a  white  necktie.  There  were 
twenty  dances  included  in  the  programme,  and  of  these 
the  Prince  danced  eighteen,  with  as  many  different 
ladies,  being  all  there  were  danced  up  to  the  time  of 
his  leading  Lady  Mulgrave  to  her  carriage  at  a  quarter 
to  four. 

On  the  following  morning  the  Prince  was  up  early, 
and  after  breakfast  walked  out  in  plain  dress  with 
Lord  Mulgrave  and  his  suite.  He  returned  soon  after 
ten  and  dressed  in  his  staff  uniform,  that  of  a  lieuten- 
ant colonel,  and  at  eleven  took  his  place  in  the  inner 
reception-room  and  held  a  levee,  which  was  attended 
by  about  three  hundred  of  the  leading  men  of  Nova 
Scotia  and  most  of  the  visitors  at  Halifax,  including 
Mr.  Lincoln,  the  Mayor  of  Boston,  and  the  Mayor  of 
Montreal.  Of  course,  I  was  not  absent  on  the  occa- 
sion. The  Prince  was  attended  by  all  the  members 
of  his  suite,  Lord  Muljrrave  and  the  senior  officers  of 
the  garrison.  He  looked  as  fresh  as  if  he  had  enjoyed 
his  usual  rest  on  the  previous  night,  and  bowed  with 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


unaflfected  grace  as  one  by  one  the  gentlemen  attend- 
ing the  levee  were  presented. 

At  half-past  twelve  he  stepped  out  into  the  grounda 
at  the  back  of  the  Government  House,  and  witli  the 
Duke  of  Newcastle  and  the  Earl  of  St.  Germains  on 
his  left,  and  Lord  Mulgrave  and  the  remainder  of  liig 
suite  on  his  riglit,  was  photographed  by  a  professional 
artist  of  the  town.  He  stood  in  his  uniform,  and  hold- 
ing his  hat  in  his  right  hand,  under  his  arm,  and  the 
sun  shone  full  on  his  face. 

After  this  he  partook  of  luncheon,  and  at  a  quarter- 
past  two  he  arrived  at  the  dock-yard  in  an  open  car- 
riage, with  Lord  and  Lady  Mulgrave,  the  Duke  of 
Newcastle,  and  Earl  St.  Germains.  He  there  embarked 
on  one  of  the  boats  of  the  Nile,  in  order  to  lunch  with 
the  Admiral  on  board,  and  witness  the  regatta,  which 
had  been  going  forward  since  the  hour  of  ten.  The 
yards  of  the  three  vessels  of  the  Admiral's  fleet  were 
manned,  and  these,  as  also  the  royal  squadron,  fired 
royal  salutes  as  the  royal  standard  moved  away  from 
the  shore.  He  went  on  board  tlie  Hero  in  three  quar- 
ters of  an  hour  afterwards  and  changed  his  uniform  for 
a  plain  walking  suit,  after  wliich  he  was  rowed  to  the 
paddle  steamer  Valorous,  in  which  he  sailed  up  to  the 
basin  at  the  head  of  the  bay,  where  his  grandfather, 
the  Duke  of  Kent,  once  owned  a  farm.  At  a  few  min- 
utes past  six  the  Valorous,  with  the  royal  standard 
fluttering  at  her  masthead,  returned,  and  upon  anchor- 
ing the  boat  was  at  once  lowered,  and  Albert  Edward 
stepped  into  it,  when  the  royal  standard  was  erected 
at  the  bow.  As  the  boat  was  rowed  towards  the 
crowded  wharves  and  landing  steps  the  royal  salutes 
were  again  fired,  and  the  yards  were  manned  as  be- 
fore. 

Li  the  meantime  I  had  been  visiting  the  vessels  of 
the  fleet,  including  tlie  Hero,  and  glancing  at  tlie 
yachts  and  punts  and  pinnaces  as  they  shot  to  and  fro 
over  the  bay  at  the  highest  speed  either  wind  or  labor 


43 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD;   OR, 


m  'ii 


would  carry  them.  To  those  having  a  taste  for  aquat- 
ics the  scene  on  the  bay  at  this  time  was  one  of  the 
finest  sights  of  the  Halifax  carnival.  There  was  gen- 
uine good-humor  among  the  masses  that  covered  the 
wharves,  and  real  spirit  shown  by  the  rowers. 

On  Thursday  morning,  at  seven  o'clock,  the  Prince 
and  suite,  the  members  of  the  Legislature,  and  a  few 
others,  left  Halifax  by  a  special  train  for  Windsor.  As 
the  train  moved  away  from  the  station  a  rural-looking 
couple  jumped  on  to  the  foot-board  of  one  of  the  cars, 
and  could  not  be  persuaded  to  jump  back  again,  not- 
withstanding the  energetic  expostulations  of  those  in 
charge ;  so  they  were  carried  to  Windsor  in  the  posi- 
tion of  stow-aways.  The  Prince  and  suite,  with  Lord 
and  Lady  Mulgrave,  had  a  car  to  themselves.  The 
train  arrived  at  Windsor  at  half-past  eight,  and  the 
Prince  passed  between  the  ranks  of  a  voluntew:  guard 
of  honor,  which  had  arrived  from  Halifax  two  hours 
previously,  into  the  Clifton  House,  on  the  balcony  of 
which  he  was  soon  afterwards  presented  with  an  ad- 
dress by  the  inhabitants,  to  whose  spokesman  he  read 
a  brief  reply,  the  sun  all  the  time  shining  upon  his 
head  and  face.  He  next  partook  of  an  elegant  break- 
fast at  a  large  table,  at  which  all  of  the  special  train 
were  permitted  to  seat  themselves.  The  Queen,  Prince 
Consort,  and  the  Prince  of  Wales  were  toasted,  soon 
after  which  the  royal  guest  left  the  table  and  took  his 
seat  in  one  of  the  carriages  in  waiting  to  convey  the 
party  to  Hansport,  where  he  embarked  on  board  the 
Styx  for  St.  John's,  New  Brunswick,  which  vessel  an- 
chored there  at  ten  P.M.,  after  a  smooth  and  delight- 
ful passage  down  the  picturesque  Bay  of  Fundy. 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


47 


CHAPTER  lY. 


The  Feeling  of  the  People  in  Regard  to  the  Visit  of  the  Prince — 
His  Social  Powers  and  Love  of  the  Humorous — The  Royal  Quarters 
on  Board  the  Hero — His  Acquaintance  with  Foreign  Languages — 
Personnel  of  his  Suite — His  Arrival  and  Enthusiastic  Reception  by 
the  People — A  Visit  to  the  Indians. 

"Wherever  I  went  there  was  but  one  sentiment 
distinguishing  the  people  with  respect  to  their  royal 
visitor,  and  that  was  of  admiration  for  the  man,  and 
loyalty  to  the  throne,  which  they  all  hope  he  may  at 
some  distant  day  ascend. 

I  may  say  of  the  Prince  that  he  is  handsome,  and 
not  only  that,  but  very  pleasing  in  other  respects. 
His  proportions,  although  small  and  delicate,  are 
symmetrical,  while  the  play  and  expression  of  his 
features  are  of  an  order  at  once  intellectual,  refined, 
and  prepossessing. 

During  the  voyage  from  England,  he  was  the  most 
lively  and  social  of  all  on  board.  He  used  to  sit  cross- 
legged,  with  telescope  in  hand,  signaling'  the  other 
ships  of  the  squadron,  alternately  asking  humorous 
questions,  and  returning  all  sorts  of  jocular  replies. 

He  was  slightly  sea-sick  during  the  first  two  or 
three  days  when  the  weather  was  rough,  but  after- 
wards he  was  hardly  ever  in  his  own  cabin  ten  min- 
utes at  a  time,  save  at  meals,  during  the  whole  day. 
Yet  he  frequently  passed  in  and  out. 

He  had  the  entire  use  of  the  upper  quarter-deck 
cabin,  usually  occupied  by  the  captain,  and  into  this 
none  of  the  members  of  his  suite  ever  entered,  unless 
to  dine,  or  by  special  invitation. 

On  walking  from  the  main-deck,  where  a  sentinel 
of  marines  is  at  all  t,  mcs  pacing  to  and  fro,  you  enter 


48 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


III 


1  i  'i;'! 


i\ 


the  dining  cabin,  which  is  as  broad  as  the  quarter- 
deck, but  considerably  less  extensive.  Right  and  left, 
on  each  side,  you  see  two  of  the  huge  ninety  one  guns, 
which  the  ship  carries,  painted  white,  and  laslied  to 
the  deck  and  port-hole  loops  with  thick,  heavy  ropes 
or  hawsers,  which  are  twisted  about  each  of  the  four 
cannon  referred  to  like  so  many  coils  of  snakes.  A 
mahogany  dining- table  stands  in  the  centre,  together 
with  two  small  card-tables,  and  twentv  two  leather  bot- 
tomed  chairs  of  the  same  wood.  The  walls  and  ceil- 
ing are  painted  plain  drab,  and  tlie  only  approaches 
to  ornament  about  either,  or  the  cabin,  are  a  few  gilt 
lines  between  the  paneling.  Tlio  floor  is  covered 
with  a  thin  mottled-red  carpet  which,  in  sobriety  of 
look,  is  in  keeping  with  every  tiling  else  in  the  apart- 
ment. A  mahogany  sideboard  occupies  a  middle  posi- 
tion on  the  forward  side,  and  over  this  are  suspended 
from  the  roof  four  long  silver  lantern-like  candle  hold- 
ers, whicli  were  once  the  property  of  Lord  Nelson, 
and  used  by  him  on  board  the  Victory,  from  which 
they  were  taken  after  the  battle  of  Trafalgar.  These 
had  candles  burning  in  them  only  once  during  the 
voyage,  when  the  Prince  gave  a  dinner  party. 

On  the  opposite  wall  hangs,  in  a  plain  narrow 
frame,  an  engraved  portrait  of  Nelson,  in  his  uniform, 
and  surrounded  by  charts,  and  with  one  arm  leaning 
on  a  table,  and  immediately  underneath  is  a  cabinet, 
which  was  made  out  of  the  timbers  of  the  old  Victory 
herself. 

A  doorway,  facing  the  outer  one,  leads  into  his  sit- 
ting cabin,  which  is  a  well-window  lighted,  and  a  very 
comfortable  room,  furnished  with  a  table  in  the  cen- 
tre, and  two  small  leather-covered  sofas  and  chairs  to 
match.  The  walls  are  painted  similarly  to  those  of 
the  other  apartment,  and  are  equally  devoid  of  orna- 
ment. Turning  to  the  right  after  entering,  you  step 
into  his  sleeping  cabin,  on  the  right  hand  side  of  which 
his  cot,  lined  with  a  hair  mattress,  was  swung  for  him 


THE    PRINCE    OF    WALES    IN    AMERICA. 


49 


every  night.  On  the  left  is  a  speaking-tube,  which 
he  used  for  summoning  liis  servant,  who  entered  by  a 
doorway  leading  direct  into  the  sleeping  chamber, 
and  facing  the  other  one.  Underneath  a  plain  deal 
board,  on  which  his  cot  rested  by  day,  were  three  new- 
looking  solid  leather  portmanteaus,  or,  as  we  call 
them,  trunks,  of  which  he  carried  ten  in  all.  He  arose 
about  eight  or  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  breakfast- 
ed soon  after,  lunched  at  one,  and  dined  at  five,  with 
whoever  he  chose  to  invite,  and  he  always  invited  one 
or  more  of  the  oflBcers,  including  midshipmen,  with 
whom,  to  use  a  familiar  expression,  he  was  "  fond  of 
skylarking."  He  appears  to  be  very  fond  of  the  socie- 
ty of  his  brethren  of  the  rising  generation,  for  at  the 
Halifax  ball  a  youthful  middy  of,  I  believe,  the  Hero, 
engaged  his  conversation  at  one  point  of  the  evening 
more  than  the  partner  leaning  on  his  arm. 

And,  while  speaking  of  that  evening,  I  must  nut 
omit  to  mention  that,  at  dinner,  being  seated  near  the 
Portuguese  Consul  to  whom  he  had  been  previously 
presented,  he  began  talking  Portuguese  to  him,  a  lan- 
guage which  the  consal,  being  an  Englishman,  was 
by  no  means  proficient  in,  and  was,  therefore,  compel- 
led to  tell  the  Prince,  that,  although  the  Portuguese 
Consul,  he  was  anything  but  a  Portuguese  himself. 
"  Did  he  speak  it  well  ?"  I  asked  the  consul.  "  Oh 
yes,  so  far  as  I  could  judge ;  better  a  good  deal,  at 
any  rate,  than  I  could  speak  it." 

To  return  to  the  Hero.  A  plain,  portable  mahogany 
washstand,  with  a  lid  that  closes  over  the  top,  stands 
under  the  speaking  tube,  and  a  small  brass  wire  rack 
is  fixed  in  the  wall  within  reach  of  his  cot  when 
swung,  so  that  he  can  place  or  take  away  a  box>k 
or  such  like  there  while  in  bed. 

On  the  deck  next  below,  and  directly  under  the 
Prince's  cabins,  are  those  of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle, 
ard  Earl  St.  Germains,  who  have  separate  sleeping 
cabins,  but  one  sitting-room  in  common. 


*;' 


tm 


60 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WOULD  I   OR, 


!!;!;>  JH 


In  the  latter,  alike  with  that  of  the  Prince,  there  is 
a  bookcase  filled  with  volumes  relating  almost  entire- 
ly to  the  United  States  and  British  North  America, 
selected  especially  for  this  occasion.  All  the  works 
on  this  country  that  could  be  gathered  are  on  board, 
and  have  been  read  with  avidity.  Hence,  to  some 
extent,  the  ready  information  expressed  with  regard 
to  places  visited,  historical  and  otherwise,  in  the  royal 
replies. 

The  Duke  is  about  five  feet  eleven  inches  in  height, 
and  well  made.  He  is  easily  recognizable  by  his 
short-cut  beard,  whisker?,  and  mustache,  which  in  color 
are  sandy,  with  an  inclination  to  red.  His  age  is  a 
little  beyond  forty.  He  stands  and  walks  very  erect, 
and  has  a  fine  gentlemanly  bearing.  He  was  always, 
when  in  company  with  the  Prince,  to  be  seen  on  his 
left ;  and,  whenever  the  latter  was  in  uniform,  the 
Duke  appeared  in  that  of  a  Lord  Lieutenant — scarlet, 
with  silver  facings. 

The  Earl  of  St.  Germains  looks  more  than  ten  years 
older,  and  his  hair  is  gray  ;  but  he  has  a  firm  step,  a 
quick  eye,  and  great  nobility  of  countenance.  He  is 
nearly  as  tall  as  the  Duke,  and  liis  uniform  is  that  of 
the  Lord  Chamberlain,  which  has  gold  work  on  a  scar- 
let ground.  General  Bruce,  His  Royal  Highness'  Gov- 
ernor, is  a  Major  General  in  the  army,  and  of  extreme- 
ly affable  and  refined  manners.  He  is  nearly  as  tall, 
and  a  little  younger  than  the  Earl,  but  his  hair  is 
gray  also.  He  wear^  the  uniform  of  a  General,  scar- 
let, with  gold  lace.  The  remainder  of  the  Prince's 
suite  are  Major  Teesdale  and  Captain  Gray,  the 
equerries,  who  are  both  young  men  ;  Dr.  Acland,  phy- 
sician, and  Mr.  Englehart,  secretary,  both  of  whom 
dressed  in  civil  blue  uniform,  with  silver  facings  and 
cocked  hats,  whenever  the  Prince  assumed  his,  and 
exchanged  it  for  plain  dress  as  often.  Besides  these 
there  were  several  servants  of  various  degrees,  in- 
cluding a  steward,  who,  wlienever  on  duty,  was  in 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


51 


plain  evening  dress,  after  tlic  style  of  gentlemen  and 
butlers  in  Engliind,  and  one  or  more  footmen,  who 


the  box  of  whatever 
might  be  riding  in,  and 


carriage 
wore 


His 

the 


always  rode  on 
Royal  Highness 
royal  livery. 

When  it  was  first  understood  that  the  Prince  was 
to  sail  in  the  Hero  the  Admiralty  prepared  to  take  the 
guns  out  of  the  cabin  to  be  used  by  him,  and  decorated 
the  apartments  in  regal  splendor.  But  an  order  tamo 
from  Her  Majesty,  his  mother,  to  the  effect  that  every- 
thing was  to  remain  in  the  same  order  on  board,  and 
that  whatever  little  addition  required  to  be  made  for 
his  personal  accommodation  should  be  of  the  plainest 
kind.   These  instructions  had,  of  course,  to  be  obeyed. 

In  my  observation  of  the  character  of  the  Prince  I 
have  found  that  he  is  full  of  genuine  good-humor, 
which  often  rises  into  a  bubbling  gayety  and  strong 
relish  for  fun.  He  has  a  quick  eye  for  the  ludicrous 
wherever  seen,  and  evidently  delights  in  throwing  off 
all  state  and  acting  like  any  common  mortal. 

It  may  be  interesting  either  to  learn  or  be  reminded 
that  New  Brunswick  extends  nearly  north  and  south, 
and  forms  an  irregular  square  between  Nova  Scotia 
and  Canada.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  the  Bay 
of  Chaleurs  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  which 
separate  it  from  Gaspe,  or  boundary  of  Canada.  On 
the  east  it  also  extends  to  the  Gulf  or  Northumberland 
Straits.  A.  narrow  peninsula  joins  it  to  Nova  Scotia 
on  the  southeast,  and  it  is  separated  from  that  province 
on  the  south  by  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  On  the  west  it 
meets  the  State  of  Maine.  It  contains  about  26,000 
square  miles  of  territory,  which  is  mostly  of  a  cultiva- 
table  character.  The  county  of  St.  John's,  situated  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  of  that  name,  occupies  a  long 
and  narrow  belt  of  land,  forming  the  north  coast  of 
the  Bay  of  Fundy,  between  Cape  Eurage  and  Mace's 
Bay,  being  more  than  eighty  miles  in  length,  and  on 
an  average  not  more  than  ten  miles  in  breadth.    The 


St'    J 


f\ 


,nil<:!l 


'1* 


>\'m  <  ' 


ffli' " 


ill  pi: 
I'  ■  " 


Wtn 


52 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;    OR, 


whole  shore  is  rocky,  and  here  and  there  bounded  by 
precipitous  clifls.  Tiie  harbor  of  8t.  John's  is  safe,  but 
not  very  commodiouH,  especially  at  low  water.  The 
tides  rise  twenty-six  feet,  so  leaving  long  shores  at 
low  tide.  Partridge  Island  is  situated  at  the  mouth 
of  the  harbor,  and  on  it  there  are  a  battery,  lighthouse, 
signal  station,  and  hospital.  Between  the  island  and 
mainland  there  is  a  long  narrow  bar,  to  be  seen  at  low 
water.  Eastward  of  the  harbor  there  is  a  broad  shal- 
low estuary,  terminating  in  a  marsh,  and  a  deep  ravine 
that  runs  westward  and  separates  the  town  of  Port- 
land from  St.  John's.  The  harbor  of  St.  John's  has  the 
important  advantage  of  being  accessible  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year.  The  town  is  built  on  a  rocky  peninsula 
of  very  uneven  ground,  sloping  in  opposite  directions 
from  a  central  ridge.  The  whole  shore  is  lined  with 
timber  ponds,  booms,  and  ship-yards,  which  receive 
the  numerous  rafts  floated  down  the  river.  A  little 
more  than  sixty  years  ago  the  site  of  the  city  was  a 
rocky  headland,  covered  with  cedar  thickets.  It  was 
then  the  refuge  of  American  loyalists,  by  whose  in- 
dustry it  was  founded.  Up  to  the  year  1784  it  was  a 
part  of  the  colony  of  Nova  Scotia,  but  in  that  year  a 
rupture  occurred,  which  led  to  its  becoming  a  separate 
province. 

On  the  morning  following  my  arrival  at  St.  John's 
the  streets  were  busy  with  the  stir  of  human  life,  and 
the  hum  of  voices  filled  the  air.  Most  of  the  shop 
doors  were  open,  but  their  shutters  were  closed,  and 
a  general  holiday  appeared  to  be  the  order  of  the 
day. 

At  ten  o'clock  I  followed  the  crowd  on  foot  to 
Reed's  Point  Wharf,  where  the  landing  was  to  take 
place.  The  Styx,  gayly  dressed  with  flags,  lay  mid- 
stream, opposite,  at  anchor,  and  workmen  were  busy 
erecting  the  stage  on  which  His  Royal  Highness  was 
to  step  from  the  boat.  The  guard  of  honor  of  the 
Sixty-third  Regiment,  from  Halifax,  lined  the  way 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


56 


nearest  the  water,  and  after  them  came  the  volunteers 
and  the  trade  and  other  societies.  The  Lieutenant 
Governor  of  New  Brunswick  was  in  waiting  between 
the  ranks,  as  also  several  of  the  municipality  of  the 
town.  On  either  side,  amphitheatric  seats  of  tempo- 
rary construction,  were  crowded  with  thousands  of 
the  loyal  and  curious,  who  cast  eager  glances  towards 
the  man-of-war,  whose  yards  were  already  being 
Manned.  Suddenly,  and  while  the  carpenters  were 
still  at  work  on  the  stage,  there  arose  a  general  shout 
of  "  Here  ho  comes,"  and  true  to  the  words,  a  boat 
with  the  royal  standard  fluttering  at  its  peak,  came 
bounding  towards  the  shore.  Then  boomed  out  the 
glorious  music  of  the  loud-tongued  cannon  in  a  royal 
salute,  with  which  the  voices  of  the  masses  blended  in 
a  grand  chorus  of  welcome.  Hurrah  I  Hurrah  I  Hur- 
rah I  shouted  the  excited  multitude  in  their  patriotic 
ardor,  and  cheers  rang  again  and  again  till  the  Prince 
had  entered  liis  carriage  at  the  end  of  the  wharf  and 
disappeared  from  their  sight,  when  the  cry  of  welcome 
was  taken  up  and  echoed  along  the  ranks  by  fresh 
multitudes  assembled  to  swell  the  concourse  in  honor 
of  their  future  king. 

I  passed  from  the  wharf  in  the  midst  of  a  crc^^d,  to 
which  that  of  the  Japanese  ball  at  New  York  was  only 
second,  and  had  the  felicity  of  joining  in  a  foot  pro- 
cession as  far  as  the  house  in  which  the  Prince  was  to 
take  up  his  abode.  The  long  street  we  had  to  tread 
was  very  dusty,  and  the  sun  was  shedding  his  brilliant 
lustre  with  oppressive  warmth  over  our  heads,  and  the 
carriages  containing  the  Prince  jind  suite  stopped  sud 
denly  at  irregular  intervals,  which  had  the  effect  of 
damaging  the  shins  of  those  nearest,  and  throwing  all 
followers  back  in  disorder,  to  the  entire  glee  of  the 
small  boys  who  looked  on  from  the  windows  and  side- 
walks. 
.  The  boys  and  girls  of  the  united  schools  threw 


64 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J   OE, 


bunches  of  flowers  a^the  carriage  as  it  passed  through 
the  grounds  of  the  house  he  was  to  occupy,  beyond  the 
entrance  to  which,  none  but  the  Prince,  his  suite,  and 
the  Governor  were  allowed  to  pass. 

Then  the  procession,  which  included  the  Mayor  of 
Montreal,  who  wore  the  same  great  big  conspicuous 
chain  of  office  around  his  neck  that  had  attracted  so 
mucli  attention  on  the  part  of  the  natives  of  Halifax, 
retraced  their  steps  over  the  hot,  dusty  street,  in  the 
direction  of  the  Court  House,  where  the  Prince  met 
them  at  half-past  twelve.  There  he  took  his  stand  on 
the  small  platform  erected  for  him  in  front  of  an  open 
space  of  ground,  where  about  five  thousand  people, 
with  upturned  faces,  were  assembled  to  look  at  and 
cheer  him  while  the  procession  of  trades  and  firemen 
filed  past,  every  now  and  then  halting  to  give  him  a 
hearty  three  times  three. 

"  Is  that  all  ?"  said  the  Prince,  inquiringly,  towards 
the  end  of  the  long  procession,  addressing  the  Duke 
of  Newcastle,  but  the  cry  was  "  still  they  come." 

J*  fter  this  ho  held  the  levee,  which  was  attended  by 
gentlemen  in  white  neckties  and  clothes  to  match.  It 
was  then  that  the  usual  addresses  were  presented. 

The  Prince,  having  passed  through  this  ordeal, 
drove  home  and  changed  his  uniform  for  a  plain  suit, 
in  which  he  drove  to  Carleton — a  suburb  of  the  town 
— and  returned  to  dinner  at  eight.  His  own  suite, 
and  the  Governor,  and  the  Attorney  General  of  New 
Brunswick,  alone  dined  with  him  on  this  occasion. 

At  nine  the  next  morning  ho  was  oflf  for  Frederic- 
ton.  The  reception  there  was  enthusiastic  enough  for 
the  place,  but  a  mere  lukewarm  demonstration  com- 
pared with  the  ovations  he  was  destined  to  receive 
elsewhere. 

He  arrived  at  half-past  six  on  Saturday  afternoon, 
and  landed  from  the  steamer  Forest  Queen  at  the 
wharf  facing  the  Province  Building,  where  a  crowd 


THE  PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


55 


of  about  four  thousand  people  had  assembled  to  greet 
him.  The  Governor  accompanied  the  royal  guest  to 
Government  House,  where  he  was  domiciled  while  in 
Fredericton. 


■K-p 


'  CHAPTER  y. 

The  River  St.  John— Variety  and  Beauty  of  its  Scenery— The  Recep- 
tion at  Fredericton — Enthusiasm  and  Loyal  Demonstrations  of  the 
People  there— Visit  to  the  Cathedral — Sermon  by  the  Bishop — 
Visit  to  the  Indian  Encampment — Opening  of  a  New  Park  under 
the  Auspices  of  the  Prince— Excessive  Heat  of  the  Day — Ball  in 
the  Evening— A  young  Lady  throv/s  the  Prince  a  Bouquet,  which 
he  stoops  to  pick  up— Race  on  the  River  between  Indian  Canoes 
— How  the  Prince  received  the  Intelligence  of  his  Sister's  Ac- 
couchement, etc.  - 


Thi^  river  St.  John,  in  New  Brunswick,  by  which 
the  Prnce  traveled  to  Fredericton,  is  worthy  of  a 
fame  far  more  extended  than  it  now  possesses.  Near 
its  mouth,  at  the  harbor  of  St.  John,  the  scenery  is  of  a 
character  as  bold  and  varied  as  any  to  be  found  on  the 
Hudson,  and  far  away  in  the  interior,  over  the  entire 
length  of  its  main  stream — a  distance  of  three  hundred 
and  sixty  miles — scenes  of  rare  picturesque  beauty 
frequently  present  themselves,  while  in  no  part  is  there 
monotony  or  utter  tameness.  About  sixty  miles  above 
Fredericton  the  river  presents  a  series  of  falls,  which 
descend  perpendicularly  over  a  depth  of  seventy  feet. 

New  Brunswick  gave  the  Prince  a  loyal  reception, 
but  it  was  second  in  magnificence  to  that  of  Halifax. 
This  was  as  I  anticipated.  At  Halifax  there  were  six 
British  ships  of  war,  half  a  dozen  batteries  and  two 
regiments  of  tl-e  line,  besides  artillery  to  tliunder  out 


56 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


royal  salutes  in  his  honor,  and  it  being  the  capital,  and 
his  stay  there  more  prolonged  than  at  either  St.  John's 
or  Fredericton,  more  opportunities  were  afforded  for 
display  than  at  either  of  the  two  places  named.  The 
cheering  at  the  landing  stage  at  St.  John^s  was  not  as 
enthusiastic  as  it  might  have  been,  but  I  rightly  attrib- 
uted it  to  a  lack  of  manner  rather  than  of  feeling,  fo  r 
I  observed  an  awe,  amounting  to  reverence,  pictured 
in  the  faces  of  all  I  saw. 

In  New  Brunswick  every  demonstration  that  was 
made  was  the  popular  outburst  of  patriotism  and  loy- 
alty on  the  part  of  the  real  sinew  and  muscle  of  tlie 
country,  the  hard-working  people,  almost  entirely  un- 
aided by  military  forces  other  than  those  of  their  own 
local  organization,  and  these  did  credtt  to  tlie  colony. 
On  the  banks  of  the  St.  John  they  made  their  appear 
ance  in  village  groups  at  several  points,  and  hred  a 
salute  as  the  steamer,  with  the  royal  standard  float- 
ing from  her  foremast,  passed  by,  while  the  inhabitants 
testified  their  loyalty  by  collecting  at  every  available 
spot  and  cheering  vociferously. 

Shortly  before  eleven  o'clock  on  Sunday  morning  he 
drove  from  Government  House  to  the  Cathedral,  in  an 
open  carriage.  Beside  him  sat  Mrs.  Manners  Sutton, 
the  wife  of  the  Governor,  and  on  the  opposite  seat  the 
Governor  himself  and  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  in  plain 
dress,  an  official  cap  on  the  part  of  the  former  excepted. 

On  the  way  there  was  no  demonstration  whatever 
on  the  part  of  the  people  collectively,  nor  was  any 
crowd  assembled,  save  near  the  church  door  ;  but  in- 
dividuals, from  time  to  time,  raised  their  hats  to  him, 
to  which  he  responded  by  raising  his  own.  None  but 
regular  attendants  at  the  church  were  admitted  till 
after  the  Prince  had  entered,  and  after  that  the  pews 
were  quickly  filled,  and  many  had  only  standing  room. 

His  Royal  Highness  sat  in  the  Governor's  pew,  and 
listened  to  an  eloquent  sermon  by  the  bishop,  with 
much  attention.    Tlie  latter  made  beautiful  allusion 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


m 


to  the  virtues  of  his  mother,  and  also  his  own  probable 
career. 

As  he  drove  home  again  the  same  quiet  prevailed  in 
the  streets  as  at  his  coming,  and  in  his  reply  to  the 
address  of  the  municipality  on  the  following  morning, 
he  made  very  tasteful  allusion  to  this  observance  of 
the  Sabbath.  At  night  he  strolled  to  the  Indian  en- 
campment at  the  river-side. 

The  event  of  the  next  day  following  the  levee  and 
presentation  of  addresses  was  the  opening  of  the  park 
— a  narrow  walk,  with  a  total  area  of  only  sixteen 
acres — and  drawing  the  plug  of  a  new  fountain  there- 
in erected. 

After  lunching  with  Mr.  Fisher,  the  Attorney  Gen- 
eral, I  drove  there,  and  found  a  large  assemblage  of 
four  thousand  people  waiting  his  arrival  from  Govern- 
ment House,  which  stands  directly  opposite  at  a  few 
hundred  yards  distance.  The  day  was  very  hot,  and 
there  was  little  shelter  from  the  vivid  rays  of  the  sun. 
Several  hundred  school-children  were  anxiously  under- 
going the  baking  process  on  a  large  stand  erected  for 
their  accommodation.  Everybody  was  complaining 
of  tlie  heat  and  wishing  for  the  royal  presence,  when, 
at  a  few  minutes  after  three  there  arose  a  cry  of  "  Here 
he  is,''  and  all  eyes  were  directed  towards  a  small, 
neat  figure  stepping  into  an  open  carriage  at  the  door 
of  the  Government  House,  in  front  of  which  waved 
from  a  flagstaff  the  royal  standard  of  England. 

The  interest  quickened,  and  a  few  minutes  later  a 
succession  of  cheers  announced  his  entry  into  the  so- 
called  park.  He  was  in  plain  costume,  and  on  alight- 
ing was  conducted  under  a  wooden  awning  fronting 
the  fountain.  Here  he  drew  the  plug  and  a  thin 
column  of  water  ascended.  The  insignificance  of  the 
jet  aroused  inquiry  as  to  the  cause,  when,  lo  and  be- 
hold, it  was  discovered  that  the  thirsty  multitude  of 
spectators  had  drank  nearly  all  the  water  out  of  the 
tank  which  supplied  the  said  fountain.    Such  a  step 


^tt"- 


':  I- 


i;  •  ■ ! 


I*': 


j! 

w 

m 


iiilll 


!•:!!; 


i:: 


58 


ROYALTY  IN   THE  NEW   WOULD  ;   OR, 


from  a  sublime  inauguration  to  a  ridiculous  sequel  was 
never  perhaps  before  witnessed,  and  the  Prince  could 
not  suppress  smiling  at  the  cmitre  temps.  While  this 
sickly  jet  was  disporting  itself  in  feeble  play,  the  bak- 
ing children  sang  the  national  anthem,  with  a  puerile 
variation,  after  which  they  gave  three  cheers  for  the 
Queen,  and  tlien  three  for  the  Prince  of  Wales,  which 
were  echoed  by  the  crowd. 

He  drove  home  after  this,  and  remained  there  till 
he  left  in  his  uniform  for  the  ball,  at  ten  o'clock.  On 
his  arrival  there  he  passed  to  a  private  supper-room 
provided  for  him  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  main  ball- 
room, between  a  double  line  of  ladies,  with  ten  of 
whom  he  afterwards  danced  as  many  dances,  the  first 
being  with  the  wife  of  the  Governor.  There  was  no 
supper  to  which  the  company  sat  down,  but  a  refresh- 
ment table  was  kept  open  all  the  evening.  The  tickets, 
admitting  a  gentleman  and  two  ladies,  were  only  five 
dollars  each,  so  that  nothing  better  could  be  afforded. 
The  rooms,  too,  were  consequently  overcrowded,  and 
those  present  were  of  an  order  less  select  than  at  Hal- 
ifax, where  the  price  was  ten  dollars  for  gentlemen  and 
five  for  ladies. 

The  band  of  the  Sixty-third  played  excellently,  and 
to  its  inspiriting  strains  the  gay  throng  glided  through 
the  terpsichorean  mazes  to  their  own  evident  de- 
light, notwithstanding  the  limited  space  they  had  to 
tread. 

When  the  Prince  was  about  to  step  on  board  the 
Forest  Queen,  at  half-past  six  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, dressed  in  a  white  hat  and  an  Inverness  cape 
over  a  black  coat  and  drab  trowsers,  a  young  lady 
threw  a  bouquet  at  his  feet,  upon  which  he  stooped 
and  picked  it  up  with  alacrity,  and  returned  her  a 
very  polite  bow. 

Several  hundreds  were  collected  to  see  him  off,  a  ad 
they  remained  till  eight,  wh^n,  the  fog  having  lifted, 
the  steamer  starte'd.  Meanwhile,  the  racing  on  the  part 


-THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


59 


of  fifteen  canoes,  manned  by  Indians  of  the  Milicelt 
tribe,  was  amusing. 

The  Prince  had  breakfasted  at  Government  House, 
but  he  dined  at  one  o'clock  in  the  saloon  with  the  rest 
of  the  passengers  on  board,  including  members  of  the 
New  Brunswick  Legislature,  at  the  cost  of  which  the 
steamer  was  provided. 

The  same  demonstrations  on  the  part  of  the  people 
and  volunteers  were  made  along  the  banks  of  the  river 
as  during  his  coming. 

On  arriving  at  Indiantown,  he  received  a  telegraphic 
dispatch  announcing  the  accouchement  of  his  sister,  the 
Princess  of  Prussia,  which  he  read  with  evident  pleas- 
ure. On  stepping  ashore,  where  the  Mayor,  Corpora- 
tion, and  others,  were  assembled  to  receive  him,  as  also 
the  volunteer  companies,  he  was  greeted  with  loud  and 
prolonged  cheering.  He  had  to  walk  as  far  as  a  tri- 
umphal arch  before  reaching  his  carriage.  When  he 
was  driven  ofif  a  procession  of  thv3  officials  formed,  and 
a  succession  of  flags  and  evergreen  decorations  were 
passed.  On  arriving  at  the  Suspension  Bridge,  the 
troops  were  drawn  up  while  he  passed,  and  a  royal 
salute  was  fired  from  Carleton  Heights.  On  his  reach- 
ing Princess  Street,  where  the  Carleton  fire  companies 
were  in  waiting,  the  horses  were  taken  from  his  car- 
riage to  which  the  drag-ropes  of  an  engine  were  at- 
tached, and  the  carriage  so  drawn  by  the  men,  pre- 
ceded by  the  city  band. 

Further  on  he  was  greeted  with  a  shower  of  bou- 
quets, some  of  which  fell  into  the  carriage.  One  of 
these  he  picked  up,  and  bowed  to  the  crowd  as  he 
held  it. 

It  being  a  general  holiday,  all  the  societies  that  lined 
the  way  and  joined  in  the  procession  on  the  occasion 
of  his  first  landing  were  in  attendance  now,  and  the 
cheering  was  far  warmer  than  on  the  previous  Friday. 

A  stand  full  of  school-children  sang  the  anthem  to 
him  at  a  more  advanced  point,  and  during  its  delivery 


,  !  ! 


60 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :   OR, 


the  carriage  was  stopped  and  he  sat  uncovered.  He 
embarked  from  Rodney's  Wharf  for  the  Styx  in  the 
presence  of  thousands  collected  on  the  water-side,  and 
on  reaching  her  took  his  stand  near  one  of  the  paddle- 
boxes,  and  answered  the  cheers  of  the  crowd  by  rais- 
ing his  hat,  till,  at  a  few  minutes  before  five,  the  Styx 
weighed  anchor  and  receded  from  their  gaze,  with 
royalty  on  her  deck  and  its  standard  at  her  main. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

General  Holiday  and  Rejoicing  of  the  People — Appearance  of  the 
City  of  St.  John's  after  the  Prince's  Departure — Dinner  to  the  Rep- 
resentatives of  the  Press— From  St.  John's  to  Shediac — View  of 
Prince  Edward's  Island — Facts  Concerning  the  Island— The  Way 
in  wl  ?  :h  it  was  Discovered — Scenes  on  a  crowded  Steamboat — 
Scarcity  of  Hotel  Accommodation— Grand  Illuminations,  etc. 

I  WILL  now  resume  the  thread  of  my  personal  narra- 
tive since  arriving  at  St.  John's.  When  the  last  echoes 
of  the  cheers  that  rose  from  the  thousands  of  loyal 
New  Brunswickers  collected  on  the  wharves,  and 
casting  one  last,  long,  lingering  look  at  the  young 
man  waving  his  hat  from  the  paddle-box  gangway  of 
tlie  receding  steamer  Styx,  had  died  away,  I  bent  my 
steps  from  the  water-side  into  the  shop-closed  streets, 
where  all  of  the  few  people  I  saw  were  idling  through 
a  general  holiday,  and  where  the  triumphal  arches 
were  still  spanning  the  streets  in  all  the  ghastliness 
of  their  decayed  finery.  The  towns  reminded  me  of 
a  dining  hall  after  the  feast,  a  ball-room  after  the 
guests  had  departed.  The  spirit  that  had  inspired 
the  masses  of  the  population  with  new  life  had  gone, 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


61 


and  here  alone  remained  the  wreck  of  the  past.  But, 
after  all,  it  was  not  magnificent — not  splendid — ruin  ; 
for  there  is  but  little  magnificence  or  splendor  of 
either  thought  or  action  about  the  slow-going  inhabit- 
ants of  this  long-wintered  colony ;  and  it  required  an 
effort,  the  most  extreme  of  which  their  unemotional 
nature  was  capable,  to  arouse  them  even  to  the  tame 
demonstration  which  they  made.  This  says  nothing 
against  their  loyalty — nothing  against  their  love  of 
country — but  it  shows  that  their  susceptibility  to 
external  influences  is  slight,  and  that  what  would  fill  a 
Frenchman  with  the  bubbling  gayety  of  extreme  ardor, 
and  make  a  New  Yorker  boil  over  with  the  excitement 
of  enthusiasm,  would  upon  a  native  of  New  Brunswick 
produce  hardly  any  impression  deeper  than  would  be 
caused  by  the  common  every-day  events  of  life. 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  evening  alluded  to  I  sat 
down  at  Stubb's  Hotel  in  company  with  a  hundred  or 
more  to  a  public  dinner  given  to  the  representatives 
of  the  foreign  press  accompanying  the  Prince  of 
Wales.  I  can  only  speak  of  this  with  that  sense  of 
appreciation  which  such  kindness  and  hospitality  de- 
serves. Both  the  viands  and  the  wine  were  of  the 
first  order,  and  the  chief  men  of  the  town  were  pres- 
ent. A  torch-light  procession  of  the  firemen  in  honor 
of  the  guests  halted  in  front  of  the  hotel  at  about  ten 
o'clock,  upon  which  the  dinner  party  adjourned  to 
the  street  door,  where  a  few  speeches  were  made  to 
the  torch-bearers.  The  guests  afterwards  returned  to 
the  table,  where  toast-making  was  commenced  and 
continued  up  to  a  late  hour. 

At  eight  o'clock  on  the  next  morning  I  left  St. 
John's  by  the  railway  train  for  Shediac,  thence  to  era- 
bark  for  Prince  Edward's  Island.  This  railway  was 
only  opened  at  the  beginning  of  the  month,  when  the 
Prince  of  Wales  rode  by  it,  in  a  car  specially  prepar- 
ed for  him,  to  the  steamer  Forest  Queen,  which  was 
to  convey  him  to  Fredericton ;  and  this  car  was  on 


ROYALTY  IN   THE   NEW  WORLD  J  OR, 


ft 
M  ■ 


the  present  occasion  reserved  for  the  press.  It  was 
fitted  up  like  a  room,  with  a  sofa  and  arm-chairs,  and 
neatly  carpeted. 

The  scenery  by  tlie  way  was  here  and  there  pretty, 
but  of  no  particular  interest,  and  Shediac  was  as  miser 
able  looking  as  most  of  the  villages  in  this  part  of  the 
British  Provinces. 

I  embarked  on  board  the  Arabian  steamer  at  four 
o'clock,  together  with  three  hundred  and  odd  more, 
so  that  the  accommodations  for  passengers  were  by 
no  means  of  the  first  order.  In  fact  the  passage  was 
di?'Bisting  to  every  one  of  any  sensibility.  At  eleven 
0  (•  ock  I  stood  on  deck  and  saw  Prince  Edward's  Isl- 
an:i  ij  ing  before  me  as  flat  as  a  map,  for  over  its  hund- 
ijd  a.  .  %'ty  miles  of  length  and  four  to  thirty-four 
of  breadth,  it  is  one  almost  even  plain  of  alluvial  land, 
without  a  single  rock  or  even  a  pebble  to  harden  its 
snrface.  The  soil  of  the  island  is  the  same  through- 
out, such  being  a  reddish  sand.  The  chief  articles  of 
agricultural  produce  are  oats  and  potatoes ;  but  as 
the  latter  are  raised  more  with  a  view  to  quantity, 
than  quality,  they  are  not  of  a  very  superior  descrip- 
tion. Cattle  of  all  kinds  are  fed  upon  th-  :,  pastur- 
age being  deficient.  Tiie  population  of  the  island  is 
about  sixty  thousand,  of  which  eight  thousand  live  in 
Charlottetown  and  the  immediate  neighborhood.  The 
streets  are  totally  unpaved,  but  the  sidewalks  are 
slightly  raised  above  the  level  of  the  road.  The 
houses,  being  almost  universally  built  of  wood,  are  by 
no  means  imposing  in  appearance,  and  the  only  ap- 
proach to  a  solid  piece  of  masonry  is  made  by  the 
Colonial  Building  and  the  Post-office,  both  of  which 
are  of  stone,  but  the  former  considerably  larger  than 
the  latter,  and  both  standing  in  an  open  space  of 
ground  called  the  Square. 

During  five  months  of  winter  the  harbors  and  rivers 
are  frozen  over,  and  used  as  liighroads  for  the  convey- 
ance of  produce  from  the  interior. 


i'lii;; 


THE  PRINCE   OP   WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


63 


The  scenery  around  Charlottetown  presents  a  pic- 
turesque arrangement  of  land  and  water,  but  there  is 
a  scarcity  of  wood,  which  results  in  a  lack  of  antithesis 
in  the  landscape. 

I  may,  perhaps,  be  expected  to  say  a  few  words 
respecting  the  history  of  this  island  of  the  Gulf  of 
St.  Lawrence,  which  the  inhabitants  tell  me  is  in  the 
form  of  a  crescent. 

It  is  not  likely  that  neglected  Columbus,  or  his 
more-honored  successor,  Americus  Vespucius,  or  even 
that  wanderer  in  these  waters,  Sebastian  Cabot,  ever 
sighted  the  island,  which  was  called  Prince  Edward's, 
in  honor  of  the  late  Duke  of  Kent,  the  grandfather 
of  the  royal  Albert  J]dward  who  has  just  been  gracing 
the  ball-rooms  of  the  New  World. 

It  is,  however,  alleged  by  some  i  ^at  *he  island  was 
discovered  by  Cabot  in  1497,  and  sub^^  quently  redis- 
covered by  Vedazzani,  a  proof  thai  these  early  events 
are  shrouded  in  mystery,  as  the  records  of  those  navi- 
gators bear  no  evidence  of  the  fact. 

It  is,  nevertheless,  well  know  that  when  the  French 
had  their  garrisons  at  Quebec  and  Louisburg,  it  was 
the  principal  source  of  their  supplies,  and  this  led  to 
its  being  termed  the  Granary  of  North  America. 

In  1663  the  island  was  granted  by  the  French  to  a 
Frenchman,  whose  name  it  is  not  here  essential  to 
learn,  and  it  subsequently  became  the  rendezvous  of 
French  families.  In  1745  it  was  captured  by  the 
New  England  forces,  but  restored  to  France  by  the 
treaty  of  Aix  la  Chapelle.  But  after  the  second  re- 
duction of  Louisburg  in  1758  it  became  permanently 
ceded  by  treaty  to  Great  Britain,  and  was,  up  to 
1770,  classed  as  a  part  of  Nova  Scotia.  In  that  year, 
however,  it  was  constituted  a  separate  colony,  and  so 
has  remained  ever  since.  The  population  at  that 
period  did  not  amount  to  more  than  4000. 

I  will  now  return  to  myself,  and  the  crowded, 
steamer,  from  which >  as  soon  as  she  touched  the  dark 


It 


u 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;    OR,' 


and  wooden  wharf,  I  stepped  ashore.  I  had  the  hap- 
piness or  misfortune,  as  tlie  case  may  be,  to  be  totally 
unencumbered  with  baggage — mine  having  been  left 
behind  at  St.  John's,  owing  to  the  negligence  of  the 
parties  concerned.  There  were  neither  cabs,  nor 
porters,  nor  lights,  nor  any  thing  alive  to  be  seen  on 
that  long,  dreary  wharf,  as  I  groped  along  it  towards 
the  town,  which  instinct  told  me  lay  somewhere  ahead. 
I  continued  gi'oping,  and  finally  stumbled  over  a  little, 
forlorn-looking  bey,  whom  I  at  once  impressed  into 
my  service  in  guiding  me  to  a  habitation.  I  passed 
through  a  deserted  street  to  the  chief  hotel  of  the 
place,  which  looked  like  the  rest  of  the  houses  in  the 
neighborhood,  with  the  exception  that  it  was  open 
and  lighted,  whereas  all  the  others  were  shut  and 
dark.  Here  a  woman  with  a  child  in  her  arms  told 
me  that  the  house  was  full.  "Aye,"  said  she,  "  and 
these  gents  had  to  sleep  on  the  chairs,  although  they 
came  by  telegraph  a  week  ago,"  I  smiled,  and  again 
walked  out  into  the  night  to  seek  shelter  elsewhere. 
I  knocked  at  several  houses,  and  received  answers 
similar  to  that  given  by  the  woman  with  the  child  in 
her  arms. 

At  length  I  met  a  tall  stranger  hurrying  on  to- 
ward a  lighted  window,  upon  which  I  was  myself  in- 
tent, and  with  him  were  several  of  my  unfortunate 
fellow-passengers,  who  were  for  the  present  equally 
homeless  and  equally  bedless  with  myself.  This  was 
the  Mayor.  "  Welcome,  your  worship,"  I  was  about 
to  exclaim,  when  his  local  eminence  was  made  known 
to  me,  but  I  didn't.  The  Mayor  tried  all  his  p«vrsua- 
sive  powers  upon  the  hostess  at  the  house  we  entered, 
but  in  vain.  After  that  he  hurried  away  up  the 
street,  and  renewed  his  application  elsewhere.  Men 
in  night-shirts,  candle  in  hand,  unlocked  doors  and 
opened  them,  but  only  to  tell  us  that  all  was  full — 
that  no  more  could  be  accommodated.  At  length  we 
found  a  place  where  the  host  promised  me  a  reception 


THE   PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


65 


— a  bed — but  not  a  room.  Here  the  Mayor  bade  me 
good-night,  and  I  remained  in  the  hope  of  rest. 

It  was  about  an  hour  after  this  when  I  was  intro- 
duced to  a  mattress,  on  the  top  of  sundry  chairs,  in  a 
room  in  which  I  found  four  other  sleepers  extended  on 
as  many  stretchers.  I  lay  down,  but  the  street  noises 
consequent  on  the  landing  of  the  steamer's  passengers 
were  so  great  that  had  it  not  been  for  excessive 
fatigue  I  should  hardly  have  slept ;  but  I  did  sleep  ; 
and  when  I  awoke  early  in  the  morning  and  looked 
out  of  the  windows  I  saw  hundreds  of  mv  own  fellow- 
passengers,  as  well  as  of  those  who  had  come  by  a 
subsequent  steamer,  crowding  the  streets  and  walking 
about  in  search  of  a  place  of  rest.  Alas !  said  I,  for 
the  pleasure-seekers  (they  were  excursionists),  for  they 
seek  it  and  find  it  not,  and  after  so  saying  I  dressed 
myself  and  joined  the  moving  multitude. 

The  Prince  arrived  at  Hantsport,  by  the  Valorous, 
ill  the  morning  at  six.  He  then  drove  to  Windsor, 
where  he  breakfasted  at  eight.  A  special  train  con- 
veyed him  to  Iruro  by  twelve,  when  an  address  was 
presented,  to  waicli  he  briefly  replied.  He  left  at 
one  for  Pictou,  where  he  arrived  at  six.  At  half- 
past  eight  he  embarked  on  board  the  Hero,  which 
arrived  here  at  noon  to-day,  in  company  with  the 
Ariadne  and  Flying  Fish  Her  Majesty's  ship  Valor- 
ous had  arrived  previously,  as  also  the  French  war- 
steamer  Pomona.  At  half-past  one  he  disembarked 
for  the  landing  stage,  where  the  Governor,  the  Judges, 
tlic  members  of  the  Legislature,  the  Mayor  and  Cor- 
poration, the  clergy  and  the  heads  of  Departments 
were  assembled  to  receive  him.  Royal  salutes  were 
thundered  from  all  the  war-ships,  including  the  Pomo- 
na, whose  yards  were  manned  and  rigging  dressed 
alike  with  the  others,  while  at  her  peak  fluttered  the 
British  flag,  the  English  ships  hoisting  the  French 
one  in  acknowledgment  of  the  compliment. 

On  stepping  ashore  he  shook  hands  with  the  Gov- 


66 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


ernor,  who  was  in  uniform,  and  bowed  to  tlie  Mayor, 
and  then  took  his  seat  beside  the  former  in  an  open 
carriage,  and,  preceded  by  militia,  cavalry,  and  band, 
drove  to  Government  House,  nearly  a  mile  distant. 
A  guard  of  honor  of  the  Sixty-second  regiment,  to- 
gether with  the  local  volunteers,  lined  a  portion  of 
the  way.  The  Masonic  and  three  other  societies 
formed  a  double  line  beyond,  and  joined  in  as  the 
procession  passed. 

The  cheering  was  not  very  energetic,  and  the 
w  -ather  was  gloomy  and  wet.  It  cleared  up  during 
the  time  between  his  leaving  the  ship  and  reaching 
Government  House,  but  after  that  it  rained  heavily 
all  day. 

There  were  five  triumphal  arches  erected  in  the 
town,  four  of  which  were  on  the  line  of  procession. 

The  illuminations  which  were  attempted  in  the  even- 
ing did,  considering  the  extremely  wet  and  cloudy 
weather,  much  credit  to  the  natives.  The  attempt 
was  spirited,  but  the  failure  desperate. 

On  the  next  day  there  was  a  levee  at  Government 
House,  and  in  the  evening  a  public  ball  at  the  Prov- 
ince Building,  which  was  well  attended,  and  at  which 
His  Royal  Highness  danced  nearly  every  dance. 

On  the  morning  following  he  was  escorted  to  the 
water-side,  as  on  his  arrival,  and  there  embarked  on 
the  Hero,  shortly  after  which  the  squadron  sailed  for 
Gaspe. 


J 


m 


:.»ii' 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


67 


■-.■'*  ■ '. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


Incidents  on  a  Journey  from  Shediac— Crowded  State  of  the  Steamers 
—Appearance  of  Gaepc — Picturesque  Scenery  on  the  Rivers— The 
Ships  of  the  Royal  Squadron — Address  from  the  People  of  Gaspe 
—Dispatches  for  the  young  Prince  from  bis  Father,  Mother,  and 

the  Priuctoa  oi  i  russia,  etc.,  etc. 

I'    '  ,      ■ 

At  half-past  two  in  the  morning  I  wended  my  way 
in  solitude  through  the  deserted  streets  of  Charlotte- 
town  in  the  direction  of  the  wharf  where  lay  the 
Shediac  steamer.  The  night  was  dark,  and  the  walk 
by  no  means  pleasant,  but  I  am  in  the  habit  of  taking 
things  as  1  find  them,  and  making  the  best  of  my  lot ; 
80  I  did  not  repine. 

When  I  stepped  on  board  the  vessel,  I  found  her,  to 
use  strong  language,  terribly  crowded — there  being 
within  her  upwards  of  four  hundred  and  fifty  passen- 
gers. These  crowded  the  decks  like  flies,  so  that  there 
was  no  sitting,  and  barely  standing  room  ;  and  when 
I  descended,  with  considerable  difficulty,  into  the  cabin, 
I  beheld  an  accumulation  of  legs  and  arms  such  as  I 
had  never  done  before  in  all  my  travels.  The  packing 
was  closer  than  that  adopted  onboard  an  African  slav- 
er, and  the  ventilation  less  perfect.  However,  I  had 
prepared  myself  to  sail  in  this  steamer,  so  I  endured 
the  "  roughing,"  and  stood  and  sat  in  a  narrow  com- 
pass, and  breathing  an  unwholesome  atmosphere,  until 
the  wharf  at  Shediac  was  reached,  at  eleven  o'clock. 
At  three  in  the  afternoon  I  left  in  the  same  steamer 
for  Gaspe,  the  easternmost  point  of  Canada,  in  order 
to  meet  the  royal  squadron  again.  She  had  about  one 
hundred  and  twenty  passengers  on  board,  and  sailed 
in  a  roundabout  route,  calling  at  various  places  en  route. 
The  first  was  Richibucto,  the  timber  port,  which  I 


68 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


pifi' 


n,  litmi 


l!i; 


shall  long  remember,  for  the  reason  that,  in  coming  out 
of  its  harbor,  the  steamer  grounded  on  a  sand-bank,  and, 
if  it  had  not  been  for  a  fisherman  pilot  of  the  place, 
might  have  remained  there  for  the  night,  but  owing  to 
his  skill  we  got  off  after  a  delay  of  about  two  hours. 
Meanwhile,  several  persons  on  board  were  giving  or- 
ders, and  the  grossest  incompetence  and  want  of  dis- 
cipline were  displayed  by  each. 

I  succeeded  in  capturing  a  berth  on  this  night ;  but 
the  bed  linen  had  been  so  long  away  from  the  wash-tul) 
that  cleanliness  forbade  me  to  do  more  than  throw  off 
ray  more  external  habiliments,  and  the  shelf  was  so 
small,  and  the  atmosphere  so  used  up,  that  my  repose 
was  by  no  means  luxurious. 

The  provisions  served  at  meals  were  as  bad  as  the 
cooking,  and  as  we  messed  in  the  sleeping  cabin,  the 
only  one  in  the  boat,  all  sorts  of  nuisances  were  en- 
countered. The  waiters  were  as  disgustingly  unclean 
as  the  general  arrangements  of  the  steward,  and  the 
whole  voyage  was  a  miserable  purgatory  to  the  pas 
sengers,  wlio  had,  nevertheless,  to  pay  enormously  high 
fares  and  half  a  dollar  for  every  meal  in  addition. 

Early  on  the  next  morning  we  called  at  Chatham 
and  Newcastle,  towns  and  timber  ports  on  the  Mira- 
maclii  River.  It  is  popularly  supposed  that  there  is  a 
town  or  port  named  Miramachi,  but  such  is  not  tlie 
Cuse.  Miramachi  is  a  name  generally  applied  to  all 
the  ports  on  the  river,  so  called,  and  within  the  dis- 
trict. ' 

In  the  afternoon  of  this  day  we  entered  the  Bay  of 
Chaleur,  where  the  sea  ran  high  and  the  breeze  blew 
strongly,  and  the  air  was  filled  with  mist.  Our  vessel, 
having  been  built  for  river  navigation  only,  now  pitch- 
ed and  rolled  about  in  a  manner  anything  but  de- 
lightful. 

The  bay  is  ninety  miles  long  by  twenty  to  thirty 
broad,  and  its  shores  are  pleasantly  diversified  with 
hill  and  plain,  rocks  and  grass  land.     From  this  wo 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


69 


passed  into  the  Restip^ouche  River,  and  landed  passen- 
gers at  Dalhousie.  We  then  returned  to  the  bay,  and 
called  at  Batliurst  and  Paspebebita,  all  fishing  and 
timber  ports  of  New  Brunswick. 

After  this  we  kept  well  in  with  the  shore,  which  was 
no  longer  that  of  New  Brunswick,  but  of  Canada,  and 
occasionally  stopped  to  take  in  passengers  that  put  off 
to  us  in  boats  from  the  adjacent  villages. 

The  shore  was  a  cliff  of  red  sandstone,  backed  by  a 
chain  of  rolling  hills — a  spur  of  the  Alleghanics — 
pleasantly  dotted  with  cottages  and  small  farms.  At 
a  point  named  Cape  Despair  on  the  south  side  of  the 
bay,  I  saw  a  cross,  which  denotes  the  spot  wliere 
Jacques  Carticr  first  landed  on  discovering  Canada. 
The  Duke  of  Kent  visited  this  site  in  the  Lcander, 
which,  while  passing,  bumped  against  a  sunken  rock, 
but  sustained  only  slight  damage. 

Tiie  most  picturesque  scenery  on  the  wliolc  bay  lay 
a  few  miles  further  on,  in  the  midst  of  which  lay  cm- 
bosomed  the  fishing  village  of  Perce.  Wc  were  press- 
ed between  the  mainland  and  Bonaventura  Island,  also 
inhabited  by  fishermen.  Standing  at  the  distance  of 
a  few  yards  from  the  mainland,  facing  tiiis  island,  is 
Perce  Rock,  a  tall  pillar  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram, 
with  an  archway  in  the  centre,  through  which,  at  high 
water,  a  boat  may  pass.  On  this  rock  thousands  of 
seagulls  were  perched,  and  here  tliey  build  their  nests 
and  keep  up  a  perpetual  chatter,  so  much  so  that  tiie 
fishermen,  when  overtaken  by  a  fog,  ascertain  their 
position  by  the  sound  from  this  natural  bell-tower. 

We  rounded  a  headland  after  this,  and  then  the 
beautiful  Bay  of  Gaspe  opened  upon  our  view. 

Beautiful  hills  rose  on  either  side  as  we  steamed  in- 
to the  harbor,  and  finally  into  the  basin  fronting  the 
village.  Here  the  water  is  almost  entirely  landlocked, 
and  the  hills  rise  to  an  altitude  of  from  fifteen  hundred 
to  two  thousand  feet.  The  village  in  itself  is  insignifi- 
cant, yet  in  the  only  hotel  there  I  found  the  ubiqui- 


I: 


m':'L 


11^ 


70 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


tons  JVew  York  Herald.  Hie  et  vbiqae  ought  to  be  its 
motto.    It  alone  is  universal  among  newspapers. 

In  the  distance  we  saw  the  smoke  of  the  ships  of  the 
royal  squadron,  which  two  hours  afterwards  anchored 
in  the  bay. 

I  slept  on  board  the  steamer  from  Charlotte  town 
that  night,  but  on  the  following  morning  gladly  trans- 
ferred myself  to  the  government  steamer  Lady  Head, 
in  waiting  on  the  squadron,  where  a  berth  had  been 
reserved  for  me. 


CHAPTEE  VIII, 


Excursion  to  meet  the  Prince. 


The  Lady  Head  steam<5f ,  by  which  I  traveled  from 
Gaspe,  came  to  a  full  stop  opposite  Riviere  du  Loup, 
on  the  night  of  the  14th  of  August  at  nine  o'clock,  for 
the  purpose  of  enabling  several  of  the  Canadian  min- 
istry, who  had  joined  us  from  the  Queen  Victoria,  to 
go  ashore  and  take  their  places  in  a  special  train  for 
Quebec.  They  went,  and  I  witli  them,  across  the  dark 
water  in  a  four-oared  boat  to  the  landing  slip,  where 
lay  the  Magnet,  bound  for  an  excursion  up  the  Sag- 
uenay.  My  object  was  to  take  passage  in  her,  so, 
parting  from  my  friends,  wlio  had  a  dreary,  jolting 
tiiree-niile  ride  before  them,  to  the  railroad  station 
— a  lot  I  by  no  means  envied.  I  secured  a  state-room 
in  her  and  retired.     This  is  the  end  of  Act  1. 

Soon  after  three  the  paddle-wheels  of  the  steamer 
began  creating  a  sensation  in  the  waters  of  the  quiet 
inlet  where  she  lay,  and,  awaking,  I  became  conscious 
that  she  Iiad  started  on  her  trip,  which  the  advertise- 


i;H:; 


THE    PRINCE    OF    WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


71 


ments  declared  to  be  the  only  opportunity  for  meeting 
the  Prince  in  the  Saguenay. 

The  Riviere  du  Loup  flows  into  the  St.  Lawrence 
from  its  southern  side,  and  away  on  the  other  side  of 
the  inlet  may  be  seen  the  village  of  that  name. 

The  mouth  of  the  Saguenay  is  a  rocky  gap,  situated 
a  hundred  and  thirty  miles  below  Quebec,  and  this  gap 
was  filled  with  mist  as  we  entered.  On  its  lower  side 
is  a  barren  and  stony  point  known  as  L'Islet,  and  this 
divides  the  Saguenay  from  Tadoussac  Bay,  to  the  east- 
ward of  which  two  terraces  of  alluvial  land  deck  out 
the  distance  ;  while  in  their  rear,  and  almost  enfram- 
ing them,  are  rugged  quartz-like  elevations,  which 
miglit  almost  be  called  mountains,  the  fissures  of  which 
are  filled  with  a  growth  of  stunted  spruce-trees. 

We  passed  the  cove  and  lumber  village  of  L'Ance  a 
L'Eau  on  the  right,  soon  after  entering,  and  caught  a 
glimpse  of  the  church  spire  in  Tadoussac  as  we  as- 
cended higher. 

People  were  up  early  on  the  lookout  for  the  Prince, 
asking  all  sorts  ofquestions  about  him,  and  appearing 
quite  disappointed  when  they  were  told  he  had  not 
arrived. 

Whoever  admitted  to  have  seen  him  became  at  once 
an  object  of  curiosity,  and  found  himself  watched  and 
pursued  at  every  corner  by  people  anxious  to  learn 
more,  till  at  length  the  man  who  had  seen  the  Prince 
was  only  second  in  interest  to  the  Prince  himself. 

Away  we  sped  through  the  cold  and  gloomy  gorge 
of  precipitous  naked  rock,  and  over  the  inky  flood — 
for  the  waters  of  the  river  are  strangely  black,  and  its 
walls  look  as  if  they  had  been  long  ago  cleft  asunder 
by  some  wild  convulsion  of  nature. 

Here  and  there  occurs  a  narrow  ravine  througli 
which  a  slender  but  foaming  torrent  hurries  to  its 
bed,  and  yonder  is  a  sprinkling  of  strangely  dwarfed 
shrubs,  quite  in  character  with  the  strange,  sepulchral 
scenery  around. 


'  \M 


!  !! 


■  m 


*■■:! 


*.  8? 


rT 


Mi  i'l  ,1, 1 


•1     ' 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OP, 


A  thunder-storm  in  the  ^'agueaaj  by  night  wOcH 
be  a  glorious  scene  for  the  \'"er  of  jlc  orav  gran«1e':r ; 
and,  if  I  were  certain  of  the  evo?  t,  I  %/o'il  I  at  any  time 
undertoko  the  journey  for  ti>e  mere  plers^jre  of  listen- 
ing to  the  ringing  echoes  of  ti.o  tsuuidor,  and  seeing 
those  barren  cliffs  lighted  up  witli  supernatural  radi- 
ance. The  Saguenay  is  unique  :  but,  save  ai  the  lofty 
peaks  of  Capes  Trinity  and  Eternity,  it  can  hardly  be 
called  magnificent.  Like  all  such  places  of  popular 
resort,  its  beauties,  its  wildness,  its  grandeur,  have 
been  exaggerated,  partly  by  parties  interested  in  the 
steamboat  traffic,  and  still  more  by  those  who,  in  re- 
counting their  travels,  are  never  satisfied  to  tell  a 
plain  unvarnished  tale,  but  must  ever  gild  the  picture. 

Those  who  are  fond  of  exploring  caves  and  coal 
mines,  the  Thames  Tunnel,  the  great  tubular  bridge, 
and  such  other  regions  of  shade,  will  like  the  Sague- 
nay, for  it  is  the  must  sombre  river  in  th».  world.  It 
is  the  best  place  for  enjoying  a  fit  of  the  blues,  or  mel- 
ancholy, that  I  know  of,  It  is  an  emblem  of  Lethe, 
and  would  pass  for  a  channel  of  the  Dead  Sea. 

It  looks  lifeless,  but  it  is  not  so  ;  fish  abound  in  its 
waters,  and  its  villages  arc  tlie  resort  of  anglers. 
There  are  only  about  three  of  these,  and  miserably 
small  and  destitute  they  are,  betwi'on  the  mouth  and 
Ha-IIa  Bay — a  distance  of  sixty  miles.  The  average 
width  of  the  Saguenay  is  about  three  quarters  of  a 
mile.  Iii  some  places  it  narrows  to  a  width  of  less  than 
half  a  mile,  nna  in  others  expands  two  miles  or  more. 
Tlie  rocks,  in  vLtch  it  is  set  like  a  mirror,  vary  in 
height  from  three  hundred  to  seventeen  hundred  feet, 
and  these  are  composed  chiefly  of  sienitic  granite  and 
gneiss.  The  water  at  their  base  is,  near  the  river's 
mouth,  seven  hundred  feet  deeper  tlian  the  St.  Law- 
rence, and  averages  one  thousand  feet  in  depth  in  the 
main  channel  all  the  way  to  the  Grand  Bay,  as  that 
of  Ha-Ha  is  sometimes  called. 

One  peculiar  feature  of  the  scenery  is.  that  wherever 


--     j; 


THE    PRINCE   OF    WALES   IN    \MERICA. 


73 


there  is  Ji  proJGction  on  one  side  of  the  river  there  h 
a  corresponding  indentation  on  the  other,  Avhich  favors 
the  before  n^entioned  suppCjltion  of  its  halving  boon 
rent  hy  the  oleinjnts. 

Eighteen  miles  above  Tadoussac  I  had  a  glimpse  of 
the  island  of  St.  Louis,  a  rocky  mass,  covered  witfi 
stunted  trees,  and  rising  to  the  height  of  three  hundred 
feet  at  its  extreme  point. 

The  St.  Marguerite  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Sag- 
uenay,  rolled  into  it  from  the  north,  and  here  I  saw 
the  house  and  tents  which  had  been  fitted  up  for  the 
reception  of  His  Royal  Highness  during  his  day's  fish- 
ing there.  On  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  another 
stream,  called  the  Little  Saguenay,  joined  the  larger 
one,  and  soon  after  passing  that  we  came  to  St.  John's 
Bay,  situated  on  the  soutliern  side,  and  twenty-seven 
miles  from  the  Saguenay 's  moutV.  Its  entrance  is  two 
miles  wide,  and  it  extends  two  miles  inland.  The 
mountains  which  overhang  it  present  some  fine  sub- 
jects for  ^he  hand  of  the  landscape  painter.  I  was 
told,  after  we  had  left  behind  St.  John's  Bay,  tiiat  we 
were  approaching  "  the  best  part  of  the  river,"  that 
the  lofty  cape  I  saw  before  me,  rising  seventeen  hund- 
red feet  above  the  water,  was  Cape  Eternity.  The 
very  name  was  calculated  to  awe  me,  if  I  had  been  of 
a  more  impressible  nature.  1  gazed  with  interest,  yea, 
with  admiration,  on  its  colossal  form,  and  my  eye  i^  g- 
ered,  as  the  bee  might  linger  on  the  flower,  with  a.  <<i  ju 
appreciation  of  the  picturesque,  upon  a  gurglin^-  cas- 
cade that  poured  from  its  summit  into  tin3  vavinn  on 
some  projecting  bowlder  a  thousand  feet  above  mc. 

The  river  grew  darker  as  we  j  issed  beneatli,  and 
nearly  all  the  passengers  swarmed  to  the  right-liand 
bide  of  the  steamer,  and  with  upturned  faces,  contem, 
plated  this  handiwork  of  nature. 

Wo  were  now  in  Trinity  Bay,  on  the  southern  shore 
— a  capacious  estuary,  semicircular  ia  shape  and  sur- 
rounded with  rocks,  ave  at  its  mouth,  which  is  a  mile 


;i  ^^diul 


r 


u 


Pi    i 


HI  |i||i 

mti: 

74 


ROYALTY  IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  :   OR, 


wide.  Cape  Trinity  stands  vis-a-vis  with  Eternity, 
and  tiie  steamer  passed  close  under  it. 

Pine  and  spruce  trees  flourish  in  the  fissures  of  both 
these  lofty  peaks,  which  stand  like  sentinels  to  guard 
the  entrance  to  the  bay. 

Statue  Point  was  the  next  great  object  of  attention. 
It  is  a  tall  promontory,  on  Avhich,  at  an  elevation  of 
eight  hundred  feet,  is  a  niche  of  an  irregular  Gothic 
shape,  supposed  to  be  the  outlet  of  a  cave.  The  name 
originated  from  the  fact  of  there  having  been  at  one 
time  a  rock  resembling  a  statue  at  its  entrance.  The 
Pictures  next  strike  the  eye.  They  are  very  abrupt 
rocks,  like  the  rest  of  tlie  river  scenery,  rising  to  the 
height  of  a  thousand  feet  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  and  presenting  nearly  an  even  surface. 

As  we  neared  our  destination,  a  young  lady  with  a 
characteristic  display  of  wonder,  called  my  attention 
to  another  lofty  elevation,  known  as  Ea&t  Cape,  by  ex- 
claiming, "  Oh  I  look  at  that !"  1  looked  and  saw  a 
ragged  and  perpendicular  cliff,  the  sides  of  which  were 
diversified  with  dwarfed  trees  and  bowlders  of  granite. 

Soon  after  this  we  reached  Ha-Ha  Bay,  and  saw  on 
its  southern  shore  the  village,  over  which  floated 
about  thirty  fle;;s,  chiefly  British  ensigns  and  union- 
jacks. 

A  huge  pile  of  deals  occupied  one  extremity  of  it, 
and  denoted  the  site  of  saw-mills,  which  are  owned  by 
a  large  lumber  merchant  of  the  district. 

The  steamer  no  sooner  stopped  than  she  became  the 
c^intre  around  whicJi  nearly  a  dozen  boats  began  to 
ply,  souio  for  passengers,  others  for  the  sale  of  poultry 
and  blueberries,  the  latter  being  so  cheap  and  abundant 
that  in  a  few  minutes  several  large  baskets  full  of  them 
were  purchased  by  the  passengers.  Blueberrries  ap- 
peared to  be  every  man's  property,  for  I  observed  that 
Thoe\or  had  a  peck  or  so  of  them  before  him,  had  in- 
ii  *merable  visitors,  who  helped  themselves  unceremo- 
liiously  from  his  pile  and  then  walked  away,  eating 


THE   PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


75 


the  fruits  of  their  own  coolness.  French,  or  rather  a 
French  patois,  is  the  prevailing  language  of  the  vil- 
lagers, who  supply  the  wants  of  nature  by  fishing,  rear- 
ing poultry,  and  cultivating  such  scanty  crops  as  the 
soil  enables  them. 

Ha-Ha  is  a  ridiculous  name,  said  to  have  originated 
from  the  circumstance  of  the  first  explorers  of  the  bay 
laugliing  aloud  to  the  tune  of  lia  ha,  in  consequence  of 
their  joy  at  finding  a  landing  place  and  anchorage 
after  the  long  journey  over  the  deep  channel  of  the 
river. 

The  steamer's  passengers  were  not  expected  to  go 
ashore,  as  the  vessel  was  only  to  remain  three  quarters 
of  an  hour,  and  very  few  of  them  did  so. 

There  is  another  small  village  at  the  extreme  head 
of  the  bay,  or  basin,  as  it  ought  to  have  been  called, 
and  this,  with  the  other,  is  inhabited  by  about  four 
hundred  people,  all  of  whom,  with  two  or  three  excep- 
tions, belong  to  the  laboring  classes.  There  is  a 
clnirch,  resembling  a  magnified  toy,  in  the  centre  of 
the  larger  village,  both  of  which,  I  may  remark,  are 
situated  on  the  banks  of  a  stream.  Water-power  is 
thus  obtained  for  driving  the  saw-mills  alluded  to. 

The  bay  is  nearly  circular  in  shape,  and  nearly  two 
miles  wide,  Avith  mountains  as  its  frame-work. 

The  steamer  arrived  at  eleven,  and  left  soon  after 
noon  on  her  return  to  the  Riviere  du  Loup  and  Que- 
bec. 

The  weather  was  misty  and  showery,  and  the  spir- 
its of  all  were  damped,  for  the  reason  that  they  had 
expected  to  meet  the  Prince,  and  they  had  not  met 
him. 

At  three  o'clock,  however,  there  was  a  rush  to  the 
deck  to  see  an  approaching  steamer.  It  was  the 
Queen  Victoria,  and  the  royal  standard  fluttered  from 
her  main-mast.  Everybody  stared  at  the  vessel  in  si- 
lence, but  they  did  not  recognize  the  Prince  standing 
on  the  deck,  and,  as  a  consequence,  but  few  cheers 


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76 


ROYALTY  IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


distinguished  the  event.  The  master  of  the  boat,  with 
a  surprising  simplicity,  blew  the  engine  whistle,  as  a 
signal  lor  the  royal  steamer  to  stop,  in  order  that  he 
might  deliver  a  bag  of  dispatches  he  had  on  board  for 
His  Royal  Highness,  and  enable  his  passengers  and 
himself  to  have  a  good  stare  at  him.  But,  of  course, 
the  Queen  Victoria,  treating  the  whistle  in  question 
with  silent  contempt,  passed  on,  to  the  terrible  indig- 
nation of  the  blower. 

We  subsequently  went  alongside  the  Hero  and  de- 
livered the  bag  of  dispatches,  and  then  pursued  our 
journey  to  the  Riviere  du  Loup,  where  the  steamer 
was  moored  for  the  night. 


CHAPTER  IX.  •  , 

» 

Pictorial  Gliiapsea  of  the  Prince's  Travels — Movements  on  the  River 
Saguenay — The  Prince  as  a  Fisherman— The  Scenery  on  the  St. 
Lawrence — The  Prince's  Reception  Room — View  of  the  Citadel — 
Grand  Show  of  Regulars  and  Volunteer  Troops— Enthusiasm  on 
the  Approach  of  the  Hero — Hearty  Welcome  to  the  young  Prince 
— Exciting  Scenes  on  the  Landing  of  the  Prince — Immense  Con- 
course of  People — Order  of  the  Procession — Grand  Illuminations, 
etc.,  etc. 

I  AM  about  to  give  you  a  pictorial  glimpse  of  the  re- 
ception given  to  His  Royal  Highness  the  Prince  of 
Wales  at  Quebec  ;  but  before  doing  so  I  will  recur  to 
the  time  at  which  I  last  left  him. 

The  Prince  did  not,  as  was  anticipated,  remain  in 
the  Sagucnay  on  Wednesday  night :  but  after  proceed- 
ing in  the  Queen  Victoria,  with  the  Governor  General, 
forty-five  miles  up  the  river,  returned  to  the  Hero  at 
nightfall. 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


77 


Owing  to  the  wet  and  misty  weatlier,  rough  clothes, 
including  water-proofs,  were  in  general  use  on  board. 
When  the  steamer  was  near  Cape  Eternity,  some  of 
her  guns  were  fired,  in  order  that  the  party  might  be 
amused  by  hearing  the  echoes  that  rang  back  from  the 
rocks  around,  and  the  effect  was  as  fine  as  anticipated. 

The  next  morning  dawned  more  favorably  than  its 
predecessor,  and  the  Prince  re-embarked  in  the  little 
steamer,  and  sailed  again  up  the  Saguenay  as  far  as 
the  village  of  St.  Marguerite,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river 
of  that  name,  wliere  he  spent  the  greater  portion  of 
the  morning  in  fishing,  alike  witli  those  who  accom- 
panied him.  But,  unfortunately,  he  had  no  luck,  and 
only  a  few  trout  were  caught  by  the  united  rods. 

After  luncheon,  the  entire  party,  taking  advantage 
of  the  tide,  ascended  the  St.  Marguerite  in  birch  ca- 
noes, paddled  by  French  Canadians,  the  Prince  being, 
as  ever,  foremost  in  this  aquatic  procession. 

The  Flying  Fish,  having  on  board  many  of  the  offi- 
cers of  the  squadron,  also  steamed  up  the  Saguenay 
on  the  same  day,  and  as  she  passed  the  tents  where  tlie 
Prince's  standard  hung  from  its  staff,  a  salute  of 
twenty-one  guns  was  fired  by  her,  the  echoes  of  which 
muttered  in  sublime  accents  from  the  neighboring 
cliffs  and  more  distant  hills. 

Had  it  not  been  for  the  mishap  of  the  Hero  ground- 
ing on  Bar  Reef,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay,  the 
Prince  would  have  sailed  up  in  her  ;  but  on  the  occur- 
rence of  this  accident — the  second  of  the  kind  within 
two  days — he  transferred  himself  to  the  Governor  Gen- 
eral's steamer  that  was  to  have  followed. 

The  boat  in  which  I  made  tlie  excursion  up  the  Sag- 
uenay took  in  at  Murray  Bay,  a  point  between  the 
Riviere  du  Loup  and  Quebec,  one  hundred  additional 
passengers,  which  resulted  in  a  tremendous  rush  for 
the  dinner  tables  when  the  doors  of  the  dining  saloon 
were  thrown  open,  for  "  first  come,  first  served,"  was 
the  guiding  rule  on  the  occasion. 


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78 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


m.  ''"« 


I  need  not  describe  the  brip^ht  and  beautiful  scenery 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  for  the  theme  has  been  long  and 
oft  dilated  upon,  and,  as  time  presses,  I  must  hurry  on. 
The  Isle  of  Orleans,  within  live  miles  of  Quebec,  di- 
vides the  river  into  the  north  and  south  cliannels,  and 
has  a  very  picturesque  effect.  It  was  called  by  Jacques 
Cartier  tlie  Isle  of  Bacchus,  owing  to  the  number  of 
wild  vines  that  in  his  day — some  time  during  1535 — 
flourished  over  its  extent.  It  is  twenty-one  miles  long 
and  five  broad.  Its  upper  extremity  is  near  the  mouth 
of  the  Montmorenci  River,  and  within  full  view  of  the 
Falls  of  that  name,  a  pleasing  glimpse  of  which  I  ob- 
tained from  the  steamer's  deck,  as  they  are  situated  only 
a  few  hundred  yards  from  the  main  channel  of  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  conspicuously  visible  to  all  passing. 

On  tlie  north  side  of  the  highest  point  of  land  on 
the  island  may  be  seen  the  second  of  a  chain  of  flag 
and  ball  telegraphs,  erected  by  the  British  during  the 
last  American  war,  and  extending  from  Quebec  to 
Green  Island,  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Saguenay. 
Villages  and  churches  may  now  be  seen  on  either  side 
of  the  river  ;  and  looming  ahead,  at  the  curve  of  the 
river,  near  its  junction  with  the  St.  Charles,  stands 
the  imposing  city  of  Quebec,  situated,  for  the  most 
part,  on  a  clifif  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and 
defended  on  the  St.  Lawrence  side  by  a  citadel,  and 
elsewhere  by  formidable  ramparts. 

Numerous  vessels  were  sailing  within  view,  while 
higher  up  than  the  city  lay  a  fleet  of  merchant  craft, 
with  the  frigate  Nile  and  the  Valorous,  both  of  which 
had  arrived  at  ten  that  morning  from  Prince  Edward's 
Island,  lying  in  the  foreground. 

On  the  morning  after  my  arrival  I  drove  to  the 
Citadel,  and  had  an  inside  look  at  the  heavy  cannon 
and  square  piles  of  cannon-balls,  which  are  painted 
black  in  the  most  peaceful  manner  every  two  years. 
The  river  side  of  the  Citadel  is  occupied  principally 
by  a  building  used  as  officers'  quarters,  and  elsewhere 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


79 


by  barracks  and  storehouses.  The  place  would  be 
hardly  worth  cab  hire  and  the  fee  which  the  soldier 
at  the  lodge  expects  for  showing  tlic  visitor  round, 
were  it  not  for  the  delightful  view  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
and  St.  Charles  Rivers  which  is  here  afforded. 

Friday  night,  from  the  appearance  of  the  sky,  prom- 
ised rain,  and  the  dawn  of  Saturday  was  dull  and 
showery.  The  streets  looked  like  so  many  avenues, 
ov/ing  to  the  sidewalks  being  planted  with  spruce 
l>oughs  to  an  extent  whicli  hardly  allowed  of  a  passage 
way  for  even  one  at  a  time  ;  and,  as  these  were  loaded 
with  moisture,  every  one  who  brushed  against  them 
received  a  little  of  it.  This  was  unpleasant,  and  much 
impeded  traffic,  the  cartway  being  too  muddy  to  tempt 
pedestrians. 

As  the  morning  advanced  the  thoroughfares  became 
more  crowded,  and  only  then  the  last  nails  were  being 
driven  into  the  arches,  and  the  last  branches  of  ever- 
green matted  into  place.  About  two  the  current  of 
tratlic  set  in  strongly  towards  the  Citadel  and  the  water- 
side respectively,  and  this  -continued  till  the  time  of 
landing.  Meanwhile,  the  various  stands  about  the  city 
had  been  filling  up  rapidly,  windows  had  become  occu- 
pied, soldiers  of  the  line  and  volunteer  companies  had 
lined  the  streets,  as  well  as  they  could,  and  all  Quebec 
had  turned  out  of  doors  to  see  the  landing  or  proces- 
sion. And  during  this  time  the  huge  dark  form  of 
the  Hero,  which,  since  her  last  grounding  at  the  Sag- 
uenay,  had  been  making  four  inches  of  water  an  hour, 
followed  by  the  Ariadne,  and  the  sharp-prowed  Fly- 
ing Fish,  was  steaming  up  the  river,  with  L.s  Royal 
Highness  on  her  quarter-deck,  dressed  in  a  tweed 
shooting  suit,  and  looking  so  unlike  what  is  expected 
tliat  the  eager  sight-seers  crowding  the  twenty  excur- 
sion steamers  in  her  vicinity  hardly  glance  at  him,  but 
cheer  every  young  officer  in  uniform  that  makes  his 
appearance,  everybody  being,  nevertheless,  in  doubt 
as  to  who's  who.    There  is  the  Jenny  Lind,  from 


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ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


Montreal,  whose  passengers  have  been  peeping  into 
T-he  Hero's  port-holes  all  the  way  up  from  where  the 
Equadron  anchored  last  night,  so  daring  has  her  com- 
mander been  in  keeping  her  close  alongside.  There 
are  plenty  of  pretty  girls  to  be  seen  on  board  of  her, 
and  these  are  exchanging  harmless  glances  with  those 
on  the  Hero,  Albert  Edward  included. 

There  is  a  grand,  a  mighty,  a  swelling,  a  joyous 
chorus  of  welcome,  filling  the  air  as  the  Hero  is  about 
to  drop  anchor  opposite  the  Champion  Market.  It 
comes  from  yonder  thousands  assembled  on  the  Citadel 
walls,  and  from  other  thousands  on  the  strand  and 
wharf,  and  surrounding  roofs,  and  balconies,  and 
steamers,  and  ships,  and  river  boats,  and  wherever 
else  the  human  form  can  cling,  and  from  the  descend- 
ants of  the  French  as  well  as  the  Englisli.  Welcome 
to  their  roar  I  And  now  listen  to  the  hearty  cheers 
of  those  crews  manning  the  yards  of  the  Admiral's 
fleet,  which  display  their  thousand  flags,  fluttering 
from  the  rigging,  for  Her  Majesty's  ships  are  dressed 
in  honor  of  her  son.  A  royal  salute  was  fired  from 
these  and  tlie  Citadel  as  the  Hero  neared  the  anchor- 
age ground,  and  there  will  be  none  now  till  the  real 
hero  leaves  his  ship  for  the  shore. 

There  is  no  mistake  about  the  feeling  of  welcome 
among  all  classes  here,  for  on  every  side  there  are  evi- 
dences of  it.  There  is  not  a  house  to  be  seen  without 
its  flag  or  its  evergreen  or  illurnination  device,  and 
every  word  the  people  utter,  whether  in  French  or. 
English,  expresses  genuine  loyal  pleasure  at  the  visit 
of  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

It  is  now  half-past  three,  and  the  Hero  drops  anch- 
or. Under  a  circular  wooden  canopy,  fronting  the 
landing  steps,  are  gathered  the  Governor  General  and 
the  Ministry,  in  their  civic  uniforms  of  blue  and  gold  ; 
the  British  minister  at  Washington,  Lord  Lyons,  and 
his  two  attaches ;  the  Commander  of  the  Forces,  Sir 
Fenwick  Williams,  of  Kars  ;  the  Protestant  and  Ro- 


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THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


81 


man  Catholic  bishops,  and  several  of  the  Catholic 
clergy,  all  in  their  robes  ;  the  Mayor  of  the  city  and 
several  of  the  Municipal  Council,  together  with  other 
officers,  civil  and  military,  and  many  members  of  the 
Legislature.  These  are  in  waiting  to  receive  the  illus- 
trious visitor  on  the  threshold  of  the  city,  and  as  the 
yards  of  the  fleet  are  being  manned,  the  chief  among 
them  step  down  to  the  water-side  where  the  royal 
baree  is  to  touch. 

Minutes  of  suspense  now  ensue.  The  horses  of  the 
military  congregated  on  the  town  side  of  the  canopy 
manifest  a  good  deal  of  high-blooded  restlessness,  and 
their  riders  are  as  eager  in  their  glances  towards  the 
Hero  as  the  crowd  generally. 

The  time  has  now  come.  The  Hero  has  swung 
round,  and  the  Prince  has  stepped  into  the  boat  from 
the  gangway,  on  the  Point  Levi  side,  so  that  while  all 
are  looking  for  his  appearance  at  the  one  nearest,  the 
standard  is  lowered  from*  the  mast-head,  and  a  boat 
with  another  such  standard  fluttering  from  its  peak 
rounds  the  ship,  and  appears  in  full  view.  And  now 
the  flag-ship  fires  the  first  of  her  twenty- one  guns, 
which  is  the  signal  for  the  rest  to  pour  forth  their 
volleys  in  concert  with  the  Citadel. 

The  natural  cliff  of  Cape  Diamond  forms  a  massive 
and  splendid  background  of  an  order  the  most  pictur- 
esque. The  Prince  ascends  the  carpeted  steps,  and 
halts  under  the  canopy  amid  renewed  cheers,  which  he 
acknowledges  by  bowing  in  his  usual  graceful  manner. 
His  manner  wins  all  hearts,  and  they  hail  him  as  a 
friend. 

The  Mayor  is  presented  to  him,  and  he  bows  ;  after 
which  the  former  reads  an  address  of  welcome  to  him 
in  French,  and  afterwards  a  translation  of  the  same 
into  English.  The  Prince  listens  with  courteous  atten- 
tion, but  a  smile  is  traceable  beneath  the  surface  as  he 
hears  the  address  in  the  first  language. 

The  Mayor  has  finished,  and  he  advances  and  hands 


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copies  of  both  to  the  Prince  in  person,  who,  assuming 
an  expression  of  earnest  gravity,  receives  his  reply 
from  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  on  his  left,  and  reads  it 
in  that  firm,  clear  manner  for  which  his  mother  has 
been  so  long  celebrated,  and  he  wears  the  same  regal 
yet  unostentatious  look  as  she  does  so. 

The  reply,  alike  with  its  predecessors,  is  well  word- 
ed, and  in  excellent  taste.  He  hands  the  copy  to  the 
Mayor,  and  there  is  a  mutual  bow. 

There  is  a  dead  silence  of  some  seconds'  duration, 
when  some  one  of  the  local  authorities  breaks  it  by 
exclaiming  "  Three  cheers  for  the  Prince,"  upon  which 
there  is  a  grander  chorus  of  voices  than  has  yet  been 
heard.  It  rings  from  the  wharf  to  the  Citadel,  and 
the  Citadel  to  the  wharf,  and  "  one  cheer  more"  is 
responded  to  with  undiminished  enthusiasm.  The 
Prince,  with  uncovered  head,  bows  again  and  again, 
and  is  then  conducted  to  his  carriage,  which  is  drawn 
by  four  dark  bays,  and  driven  by  a  coachman  in  the 
reddest  of  livery.  The  Governor  General,  the  Duke 
of  Newcastle,  and  Earl  St.  Germain,  take  their  places 
with  him,  and  the  carriage  moves  away  in  the  order  of 
procession,  saluted  with  renewed  cheers  on  all  sides. 

After  this  the  other  carriages  to  join  in  the  proces- 
sion came  up,  and  moved  on  as  jast  as  they  were  occu- 
pied. The  Quebec  Cavalry  took  up  position,  as  an 
escort,  to  the  Governor  General's  residence,  whither 
the  Prince  was  going,  and  the  Prince's  standard  si- 
multaneously waved  over  the  landing  place,  the  Cita- 
del, and  the  house  of  the  Governor  General. 

The  decorations  over  the  whole  line  of  route  were 
very  abundant,  and  the  cheering  vociferous.  Crowds 
lined  the  whole  way,  and  every  window  had  its  occu- 
pants. Arch  succeeded  arch  at  short  intervals  from 
the  wharf  to  the  Government  House,  a  distance  of 
more  than  five  miles,  and  nearly  every  arch  had  its 
motto  and  device. 

The  procession,  on  arriving  at  St.  John's  toll-gate, 


> '  It 


THE  PRINCE   OF   WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


83 


opened  files,  facing  inward,  and  lined  the  road  for  the 
passage  of  the  Prince's  and  other  carriages. 

In  the  evening  the  illuminations  presented  from  the 
river  a  long  and  glittering  line,  which  was  the  finest 
sight  of  the  kind  I  ever  saw.  In  detail,  however,  they 
were  less  imposing,  although,  for  Quebec,  they  were 
quite  equal  to  what  I  had  anticipated,  and  did  much 
credit  to  the  city.  As  at  Halifax,  on  the  night  ap- 
pointed for  the  general  illumination,  the  weather  was 
dark  and  wet,  and  the  showers  which  had  fallen  at 
intervals  throughout  the  day,  made  the  streets  exceed- 
ingly muddy.  Yet,  notwithstanding,  the  streets  were 
thronged  with  perambulating  crowds. 

I  have  seen  much  finer  illuminations,  but  they  were 
produced  by  gas  jets,  whereas  those  of  Quebec  were 
chiefly  transparencies  lighted  with  oil  lamps  and  can- 
dles. The  illumination  was  universal,  and,  as  a  whole, 
far  surpassed  the  display  of  the  kind  made  at  Halifax. 


CHAPTER  X. 

Proposed  Federation  of  the  Province,  with  the  Prince  of  Wales  as 
\iceroy— The  Priace  at  Church— His  Visit  to  the  Falls  of  the 
Chaudiere — Description  of  the  Falls,  etc.,  etc. 

I  WILL  commence  my  present  chapter  by  making 
allusion  to  what  I  have  hitherto  remained  silent  upon, 
namely,  a  federation  of  the  British  North  American 
provinces,  with,  very  likely,  Albert  Edward,  Prince  of 
VVales,  as  Yice^oy.  This,  I  have  every  reason  to  be- 
l,eYO,  is  i^ot  only  pqssible,  but  highly  probable. 

The  Duke  of  Newcj^stle,  who  has  long  been  the  chief 
supporter  of  moderate  liberalism  in  England,  is  not 
here  merely  as  an  attendant  upon  royalty,  but  to  as- 


84 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


'■J,a,'|.    ! 

W    5   1 


I'll'; 


,!.  I 


certain  the  state  of  feeling  throughout  these  colonies, 
with  a  view  to  the  consolidation  referred  to  in  the 
event  of  such  being  at  any  time  deemed  desirable  by 
the  mother  country ;  for  circumstances  may  arise  in 
which  such  a  union  would,  not  only  give  her  strength, 
but  insure  safety  to  these  possessions. 

The  feeling  throughout  the  provinces  is  universally 
in  favor  of  such  a  consolidation  of  England's  colonial 
empire  in  North  America.  The  inhabitants  are  averse 
to  the  distinctions  of  Newfoundlanders,  Nova  Scotians, 
New  Brunswickers,  Prince  Edward  Islanders,  Cana- 
dians, and  British  Columbians.  They  wish  to  be  all 
included  under  the  one  general  head,  and  have  one 
government  in  common,  which,  from  its  superior  ex- 
tent, would  insure  greater  rewards  and  more  honors 
than  now  exist  among  them. 

There  is  so  much  petty  party  bickering  now  in 
existence  in  the  North  American  colonies,  that  the 
system  must  be  enlarged  to  avert  the  catastrophe  of 
its  breaking  in  pieces. 

It  is,  I  am  certain,  the  political  future  of  the  whole 
of  British  America  to  become  one,  to  be  ruled  by  a 
single  Legislature,  and  to  have  laws  in  common.  But 
how  soon  this  result  will  be  arrived  at  I  cannot  say. 
Meanwhile,  England  is  well  aware  of  her  necessity  for 
maintaining  the  prestige  which  the  possession  of  these 
colonies  secures  her,  and  the  immensity  of  the  disaster 
which  their  loss  would  inflict  upon  her  political  stand- 
ing. A  war  between  England  and  France  would,  un- 
der the  present  Emperor,  probably  lead  to  the  capture 
of  one  or  more  of  the  British  colonies  referred  to,  but 
it  is  probable  that  were  a  political  union  of  the  prov- 
inces to  exist,  such  would  never  occur.  They  would 
in  themselves  be  too  strong  for  any  such  attempt  to 
meet  with  success. 

On  Sunday  morning  the  Prince  drove  in  an  open 
carriage  from  the  residence  of  the  Governor  General 
to  the  English  Cathedral,  where  he  attended  Divine 


liViim 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


85 


service.  As  at  Fredericton,  members  of  tlie  congre- 
gation only  were  admitted  previous  to  his  arrival,  in 
company  with  the  Governor ;  his  own  suite,  and  the 
other  distinguished  personages  officially  in  Quebec. 
Wiien,  at  half- past  ten,  the  party  arrived,  they  were 
received  at  the  side  door  by  the  bishop  and  clergy  of 
the  cathedral,  who  bowed  most  graciously.  The  Prince 
then  proceeded  to  the  Governor  General's  pew,  which 
had  been  fitted  up  with  crimson  velvet,  a  throne,  and 
sofas,  for  the  occasion. 

The  Bishop  preached  an  excellent  sermon,  at  the  end 
of  which,  he  made  a  brief  but  graceful  allusion  to  the 
presence  of  the  Prince. 

No  demonstration  was  made  by  the  people  in  the 
streets  as  the  royal  party  drove  past,  and  pedestrians 
were  nearly  as  few  an'^i  the  general  quiet  as  complete 
as  on  an  ordinary  Sunday. 

The  Prince  remained  at  home  during  the  nst  of 
the  dav. 

On  the  next  morning,  at  a  few  minutes  before  noon, 
the  Prince,  in  company  with  the  Governor  General  and 
his  suite,  left  the  Government  House  for  Cape  Rouge, 
where  he  embarked  in  a  boat  for  the  opposite  side  of 
the  St.  Lawrence,  on  his  way  to  the  Falls  of  the  Chau- 
diere ;  and  this,  notwithstanding  the  dull  and  rainy 
weather  and  the  muddy  roads — facts  that  left  the  party 
with  a  mere  half  dozen  strangers,  enterprising  enough 
to  accompany  them  on  the  excursion. 

The  Falls  alluded  to,  which  are  situated  about  a  mile 
below  the  railway  tubular  bridge,  on  the  river  from 
which  they  derive  their  name,  are  inferior  in  both 
volume  and  beauty  to  either  those  of  St.  Anne's  or 
Montmorenci.  Nevertheless,  they  are  one  of  the  sights 
which  the  tourist  through  Lower  Canada  is  expected 
to  visit.  The  distance  from  Quebec  to  the  Falls  is 
about  nine  miles,  and  the  most  convenient  way  of 
performing  the  journey  is  to  hire  a  caleche,  the  driver 
of  which  will  take  you  there  and  back  for  three  dollars. 


r 


^^^(, 


J 


It  I 


I 

I: 


ij 


i  .1? 


'   5 


•  u 


t 


,  M 


il,f 


s 


1  ""1 

^1 


Hi 


\r-i 


i  : 


Ijnjrjii'i 
'  '  iii 


^f 


"'ij 


I 


'' if 


rJm 

m 

jiil'iri 

..II,  I 


86 


ROYALTY    IN   THE   NEW    WORLD  ;    OR, 


The  (erry  steamer  plying  between  the  Lower  Town  and 
Point  Levi  will  convey  horse  and  vehicle  across  the 
river,  after  which  there  is  a  good  and  direct  road  to 
the  required  spot.  The  time  occupied  in  going  and 
returning  is  usually  about  three  hours. 

The  river  at  the  cascade  is  narrower  than  elsewhere, 
being  only  four  hundred  feet  across.  The  depth  of  the 
Falls  is  about  a  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet,  and  these 
are  divided  by  rocks  into  three  currents,  of  which  the 
one  on  the  western  side  is  the  largest.  These  partially 
reunite  before  their  broken  and  agitated  waters  are 
received  into  the  basin,  where  the  visitor  looks  down 
into  a  turbulent  whirlpool.  Owing  to  the  shape  of  the 
rocks,  a  portion  of  the  flood  is  diverted  into  an  oblique 
direction  beyond  the  line  of  the  precipice,  while  their 
cavities  increase  the  foaming  fury  of  the  hurrying 
stream  as  it  flings  itself  wildly  into  the  gulf,  sending 
up  meanwhile  a  cloud  of  spray,  which  in  the  sun  be- 
comes a  rainbow. 

The  forest  scenery  around  contrasts  well  with  this 
rocky  and  troubled  scene,  and  those  who  love  the 
country  will  feel  pleasure  in  the  prospect,  for  it  is  a 
rural,  lonely  spot. 

Like  all  waterfalls,  they  look  well  whether  viewed 
from  above  or  beneath,  and  the  Prince  did  not  miss 
the  opportunity  of  scanning  them  from  both  points, 
for  he  has  an  inquiring,  ardent  mind,  and  likes  to  see 
everything  that  is  to  be  seen.  He  is  an  observant, 
pleasant  traveler,  enthusiastic,  persevering  and  over- 
flowing with  good  spirits,  and,  I  warrant,  could  write 
a  capital  narrative  of  his  New  World  experiences. 

The  weather  continued  wet  and  dreary  throughout 
the  afternoon.  At  four  o'clock  the  august  party  re- 
turned to  Government  House  by  the  same  route  as  on 


coming. 


I'it--^ 


I  '^''-y. 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


87 


CHAPTER  XL 

Closing  Scenes  in  Quebec. 

The  necessity  of  embracing  the  entire  tour  in  a 
single  volume  compels  me  to  compress  my  narrations 
into  as  small  a  compass  as  possible,  which  is  a  circum- 
stance very  adverse  to  excellence  of  composition. 

The  great  event  of  Tuesday,  the  21st  of  August, 
was  the  levee  at  the  Province  Building,  upon  which 
occasion  the  Speakers  of  the  Upper  and  Lower  Houses 
of  the  Colonial  Parliament  were  knighted.  I  was 
present  and  saw  the  slender  burnished  blade  of  the 
Duke  of  Newcastle's  sword  passed  to  the  hand  of  the 
Prince,  who  waved  it  gently  from  the  left  shoulder  to 
the  right  of  the  gentleman  in  the  long  robe,  who  rose 
Sir  Narcisse  Belleau,  an  honor  which  was  a  few  mo- 
ments later  shared  by  one  of  the  great  Smith  family, 
surnamed  Henry.  , 

In  the  afternoon,  His  Royal  Highness  and  suite 
drove  out  to  the  Falls  of  Montmorenci,  and  afterwards 
walked  a  mile  or  more  across  some  fields  to  the  natural 
steps,  so  called  from  a  succession  of  rocky  shelves 
over  which  the  waters  of  the  Montmorenci  River  rush 
wildly  through  a  gloomy  gorge. 

In  the  evening,  the  citizens'  ball,  in  his  honor,  took 
place.  It  was  attended  by  the  elite  of  the  city,  and 
was  brilliantly  successful,  and  much  enjoyed  by  His 
Royal  Highness,  who  took  part  in  every  dance. 

On  the  following  day  the  illustrious  scion  of  the 
House  of  Hanover  \iirUfid  the  La  Val  University,  a 
seminary  for  priests,  where  an  address  was  read  to  him. 
He  afterwards  drove  to  the  Ursuline  Convent,  where 
the  lady  inmates  sang  with  touching  effect  to  a  guitar 


r«  ir 


<  <<d 


'tin 


1".-;     I 


hm 


I 


piil'l    'I 

m 

ijj-i 

W': 

11 '• 

'hlL^ 


88 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;    OR, 


accompaniment,  the  following  song  of  welcome  in  his 
presence : 

CU0RU8. 

Hark !  hark !  a  merry,  merry  peal 

Rings  out  o'er  all  the  land  ; 
Its  echoes  through  the  cloisters  steal, 

It  fires  our  youthful  band. 
Bring  harp  and  sing  ;  let  melody, 
Let  joy,  gush  lorth  in  numbers  free  ! 
Thy  welcome  Prince,  is  sounding  still) 
Thv  welcome  is  that  merry  peal 

Of  joy  o'er  all  the  land. 


A 


SOLO. 


l> 


'■   J 


'Tis  gladness  all  thy  welcoming 

From  Albion's  isle  afar ; 
And  loyal  hearts  their  homage  bring 

To  hail  thy  rising  star  ; 
And  joyous  youth  their  promise  tell, 
While  tuneful  notes  of  triumph  swell  I 
Lo !  Briton's  heir  deigns  here  to  rest, 
Oh !  haste  to  greet  our  royal  guest. 

CHORUS.      **      '    ■* 

Wake,  wake,  another  merry  peal, 
And  let  it  echo  long, 

While  wishes  for  the  Prince's  weal 
Are  mingled  with  our  song. 

May  every  blessing  on  thee  rest ! 
Thus  rings  the  merry  peal. 

And  thus  we  hail  thee,  royal  guest, 
Thus  pray  we  for  thy  weal. 
While  still  that  merry  peal 
Rings  loud  and  echoes  long. 


He  also  received  and  replied  to  an  address  from 
the  nuns. 

In  the  evening  there  was  a  grand  display  of  fire- 
works at  the  expense  of  the  (rovernment,  at  which 
a  serious  accident  occurred,  by  the  breakdown  of  a 
stand  full  of  people. 

On  the  next  morning  the  Prince  left  the  Parliament 
House  to  embark  for  Montreal.  The  weather  was 
beautifully  warm  and  sunny,  and  the  soldiers  of  the 
Seventeenth  Regiment  were  stationed  along  the  line  of 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


89 


route,  wh'^e  the  Quebec  Cavalry  acted  as  a  guard  of 
honor  by  accompanying  the  royal  carriage. 

On  the  wharf  were  collected  the  members  of  the 
Executive  Council,  the  Mayor  and  Corporation,  and 
the  masters  of  various  national  societies. 

As  the  royal  cortege  passed  along,  the  cheers  of  men 
and  the  waving  handkerchiefs  of  women  denoted  the 
highest  enthusiasm.  A  glorious  chorus  of  voices  filled 
the  air  as  he  stepped  from  his  carriage  at  the  point  of 
embarkation,  where  many  thousands  were  assembled 
to  do  him  honor,  and  still  louder  was  the  burst  of  ex- 
cited loyalty  and  admiration  as  he  embarked  on  the 
steamer.  Then,  too,  the  loud-tongued  cannon  rolled 
out  the  terrible  music  of  a  royal  salute,  and  the  crews 
that  manned  the  yards  of  the  men-of-war  waved  their 
hats  and  raised  their  voices  in  a  grand  unity  of  praise. 
From  the  Citadel,  from  the  ships,  from  the  battery 
overlooking  the  St.  Charles,  came  tlie  thunder  and 
smoke  of  the  iron-mou.hed  guns,  and  flags  waved,  and 
wavelets  glittered,  and  magnificent  was  the  view. 
But,  in  the  midst  of  all  this,  I  saw  a  tear  course  down 
a  maiden's  cheek.  I  had  seen  her  dancing  with  the 
Prince  at  the  ball.  If  I  had  been  a  maiden  I  might 
also  have  wept  myself.  Alas,  that  regrets  are  vain. 
The  steamer  recedes  from  my  view.  Cheers  ring 
again  and  again.  They  are  answered  by  a  wave  of 
the  hat.    Adieu ! 

That  morning  Major  General  Bruce  had  sent  to  the 
Anglican  Bishop  of  Quebec  a  Bible,  on  the  fly  leaf  of 
which  was  written  by  a  royal  hand,  "  To  the  Cathedral 
of  Quebec,  in  memory  of  Sunday,  August  19,  1860. 

Albert  Edward." 

The  book  was  exquisitely  bound,  and  bore  the  arms 
and  crest  of  the  giver  on  the  cover. 

At  four  o'clock  that  afternoon  I  left  the  city  for 
Montreal,  on  board  the  steamer  Quebec,  which  had 
been  chartered  by  the  Governi>ient  for  the  conveyance 


to 


■  >s 


:5i 


90 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW  WORLD;   OR, 


of  members  of  the  Legislature  desirous  of  being  pres- 
ent at  the  festivities  there. 

By  leaving  thus  early  in  the  day  I  enjoyed  a  good 
view  of  the  beautiful  river  scenery  for  some  hours. 

A  meeting  was  held  on  board,  at  which  it  was  re- 
solved tliat  the  vessel  should  anchor  at  Three  Rivers 
during  the  night,  and  sail  up  with  the  Prince  in  the 


morning. 


When  we  arrived  at  that  point,  at  half-past  ten,  the 
whole  of  the  water-side  was  beautifuMy  illuminated, 
and  the  royal  steamer  lay  at  anchor  a  few  hundred 
yards  from  the  pier. 

The  Prince  had  landed  there,  under  an  arch  and 
canopy  erected  for  the  occasion,  at  half-past  six,  and 
'was  honored  with  a  salute  from  a  corps  of  Royal  Ar- 
tillery and  a  company  of  Montreal  Light  Infantry. 
He  was  received  by  the  Mayor  and  Corporation,  the 
clergy,  public  officers,  and  citizens,  who  presented  an 
address  to  him,  which  elicited  a  brief  but  appropriate 
response,  after  the  delivery  of  which  he  returned  to 
the  steamer. 

When  I  awoke,  we  were  steaming  up  the  St.  Law- 
rence, with  the  royal  steamer  a  short  distance  ahead. 
It  was  raining  heavily,  and  the  day  promised  badly. 
But,  notwithstanding  its  being  misty  and  gloomy,  and 
wet,  Montreal  excursion  steamers  from  about  ten 
o'clock  met  us,  with  their  decks  crowded  with  thou- 
sands of  men,  women,  and  children.  These  steamers 
blew  the  whistle  and  turned  back  to  accompany  us, 
their  passengers,  meanwhile,  cheering  vociferously,  and 
in  one  instance  singing  "  God  save  the  Queen." 

Steamer  after  steamer  joined  us  as  we  advanced,  the 
decks  equally  crowded  with  people  wet  to  the  skin, 
notwithstanding  their  umbrellas,  for  the  rain  was  too 
heavy  and  drifting  to  be  escaped.     / 

At  two  o'clock  the  Kingston  stopped  to  await  the 
proper  time  (three  P.M.)  for  approaching  the  city. 
She  was  now  three  miles  below  it. 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


n 


We  left  her  behind,  and,  steaming  up  to  the  quay, 
landed.  The  rain  had  by  this  time  ceased,  and  there 
was  every  promise  of  a  line  afternoon.  Nevertheless, 
the  Mayor  had  issued  a  proclamation  to  the  effect  that 
owing  to  the  state  of  the  weather  tlie  reception  would 
be  postponed  till  the  morning  following.  Tlie  tens 
of  thousands  who  had  prepared  themselves  for  the 
event  were,  therefore,  left  to  go  home  again. 

In  firing  the  salute  in  honor  of  His  Royal  Highness' 
approach,  three  men  were  killed  on  board  the  Flying 
Fish,  and  one  on  tlie  Valorous. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

The  First  day  in  Montreal. 

The  morning  of  Saturday  the  25th  of  August,  broke 
wet  and  gloomy.  This  gave  rise,  I  heard,  to  a  wag 
remarking  that  His  Royal  Highness  was  not  only  heir 
apparent  to  the  British  throne,  but  the  Rainijig  Prince. 
Before  eight  o'clock,  however,  the-  rain  had  ceased, 
and  the  current  of  traffic  set  in  strongly  towards  the 
river-side.  At  a  few  minutes  before  nine — the  hour 
appointed  for  the  landing — I  drove  to  Bonsecours  Mar- 
ket, and  then  walked  through  the  mud  between  lines 
of  citizens,  kept  in  order  by  a  few  policemen,  towards 
the  wharf  near  the  extreme  end  of  which  stood  the  tri- 
umphal arch  or  pavilion. 

There  I  found  the  Ministry  in  their  Third-Class  uni- 
form, members  of  the  Upper  House  in  their  regulation 
steel-buttoned  coats,  many  of  the  Lower  House  in  even- 
ing dress,  the  Anglican  Bishop  and  clergy  and  several 
of  the  Roman  Catholic  Hierarchy,  the  Admiral  of  the 
Fleet,  and  other  naval  officers,  the  ir. embers  of  the 


I 'I  i 


92 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


Executive  Committee,  and  lastly,  but  mightiest  of  all, 
the  Mayor  in  his  scarlet  robe.  He  stood  foremost  of 
the  group  in  all  the  pride  and  majesty  of  office,  and  was 
evidently  eager  to  give  the  Prince  a  fervent  welcome. 
The  steamer  Kingston  painted  whit^,  and  with  the 
plumes  and  motto  of  the  Princes  of  Wales  painted  on 
her  paddle-boxes  was  only  a  few  yards  distant  from 
the  wharf,  but,  owing  to  the  awkwardness  displayed 
in  getting  her  alongside,  more  than  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  elapsed  before  the  gangway  was  opened  to  the 
shore.  ""^^    'J  ^.^jcy-h"   '         '.'-:>  ■  .-^---^  ' 

During  this  time  the  Prince  and  the  noblemen  ac- 
companying him,  as  also  the  gentlemen  of  the  suite,  all 
of  whom  were  in  uniform,  appeared  standing  on  deck 
and  exchanging  remarks  concerning  the  scene  before 
them,  and  the  yards  of  the  Valorous,  Slyx,  and  Flying 
Fish  were  manned  by  crews  eager  for  the  landing  and 
the  signal  when  they  were  to  cheer.  The  dome  of 
Bonsecours  Market,  directly  opposite  the  Pavilion,  pre- 
sented as  pretty  a  background  as  anything  short  of 
fine  natural  scenery,  and  the  thousands  of  people  that 
crowded  the  steamers  lying  in  the  vicinity,  and  a  few 
that  were  plying  on  the  water,  lent  animation  to  the 
picture. 

At  twenty  minutes  past  nine  the  Kingston  was  moor- 
ed to  the  wharf,  and  the  royal  party  stepped  without 
delay  on  to  the  strip  of  red  carpet  leading  to  the  steps 
of  the  Pavilion,  where  led  by  the  Mayor  all  took  their 
stand,  the  Prince  on  the  one  uppermost  with  the  Duke 
of  Newcastle  on  his  left  and  the  Governor  General  on 
his  right. 

The  Valorous,  Flying  Fish,  and  Styx,  all  dressed 
with  flags,  now  fired  a  royal  salute,  as  also  did  the 
Volunteer  Field  Battery  of  Artillery  from  the  wharf 
parallel  to  the  landing,  while  the  crews  of  the  war- 
steamers  cheered  from  the  yards  they  covered  and  the 
multitude  within  view  echoed  the  sound,  amid  the  ring- 
ing of  church  bells,  with  that  enthusiasm  which  every- 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


93 


where  greeted  the  Prince  during  his  tour  in  the  New 
World. 

Our  select  circle  on  the  wharf  was  not  behind  in  the 
gladsome  demonstration,  for  we  waved  our  hats  and 
.raised  our  voices  again  and  again  in  his  praise  and 
welcome.     ''■'-•  '.'■■:■:■"' ^^:s\:-,  v '.••T-.:^-e-^-v'- ^-z 

The  Mayor,  after  conducting  the  royal  guest  thus 
far,  took  his  place  on  the  carpeted  floor,  and  read  the 
usual  address  in  English,  and  afterwards  a  translation 
of  the  same  into  French. 

His  Royal  Highness  then  read  the  reply  in  English 
only.  At  the  conclusion  of  this,  the  cheering  was  im- 
mense. When  it  had  subsided,  the  Prince  walked  be- 
tween the  Duke  of  Newcastle  and  the  Governor  General 
to  his  carriage,  drawn  by  four  horses,  in  waiting  a  short 
distance  up  the  wharf.  As  he  drove  away  the  cheer- 
ing was  renewed,  and  continued  with  more  or  less  en- 
thusiasm all  along  the  route  to  the  exhibition  building. 

The  Prince  arrived  at  the  building  at  the  appointed 
hour  of  eleven,  and  on  alighting  from  his  carriage 
passed  through  the  horticultural  tent  to  the  reception 
room,  where  he  remained  only  a  few  moments,  prepar- 
atory to  entering  the  great  hall,  and  taking  his  place 
on  the  dais  or  throne  prepared  for  him.  He  was 
greeted  with  loud  cheers  and  clapping  of  hands,  and 
by  the  young  ladies  of  the  orchestra  singing  "  God 
save  the  Queen,"  to  an  organic  accompaniment.  The 
Prince  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  official  group  while 
the  anthem  was  being  sung,  and  never  was  man  more 
the  observed  of  all  observers.  The  anthem  was  suc- 
ceeded by  the  Governor  General  leaving  the  Prince's 
right,  and  taking  his  place  at  the  foot  of  the  throne, 
where  he  read  an  address  to  His  Royal  Highness,  set- 
ting forth  the  nature  and  objects  of  the  exhibition,  and 
praying  that  he  would  be  pleased  to  open  and  inau- 
gurate the  same. 

To  this  the  Prince  then  replied.  No  sooner  was 
this  done  than  I  heard  a  voice  saying,  "  Let  us  pray." 


1    '5 


' 


94 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


It  came  from  the  mouth  of  the  Anglican  Bishop,  who, 
clad  in  his  robes,  thereupon  read  a  prayer,  invoking 
God's  blessing  on  the  undertaking,  the  audience  dur- 
ing its  delivery  listening  without  changing  position. 
The  royal  party  was  now  conducted  over  the  building 
by  the  secretary  of  the  exhibition. 

Returning  to  the  dais.  His  Royal  Higlmess  formally 
declared  the  exhibition  opened.  Upon  this  the  Ora- 
torio Society  sang  the  "  Hallelujah  Chorus,"  with 
much  spirit,  at  the  conclusion  of  which  the  royal  party 
retired  by  the  door  at  which  they  entered,  a  farewell 
cheer  accompanying  them. 

From  the  exhibition  building  I  proceeded  to  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  station,  at  Point  St.  Charles, 
from  which  my  ticket  apprised  me  I  had  to  Jeave  by 
special  train  for  the  bridge  at  half-past  twelve,  to  wit- 
ness the  ceremony  of  its  inaugui'ation  by  His  Royal 
Highness  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

I  entered  the  special  train,  which  soon  afterwards 
moved  away  in  the  direction  of  the  bridge,  and  stop- 
ped at  the  entrance  to  it,  where  all  the  passengers 
alighted,  in  order  to  ascend  the  long  wooden  steps 
leading  up  to  the  top  of  the  bridge,  or  gallery,  as  it 
was  termed,  where  rows  of  seats  were  erected  for  the 
accommodation  of  those  present,  nearly  half  of  whom 
were  ladies. 

We  all  know  what  women  will  go  through  when 
they  have  an  object  of  their  own  choice  in  view,  and 
what  fatigue  they  will  happily  endure  under  the  name 
of  pleasure.  So  it  was  not  to  be  wondered  at  that 
the  ladies  here  displayed  their  proverbial  courage  in 
overcoming  all  difficulties. 

When  I  reached  the  summit  of  the  bridge,  the  sun 
was  shining  gloriously,  and  the  tin  roofs  and  spires 
and  cupolas  of  the  island  city  of  Montreal,  glittered 
like  the  wavelets  of  the  river,  in  the  midst  of  which, 
like  an  emerald  set  in  diamonds,  lay  the  green  islet 
fronting  the  Custom-housO. 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


u 


I  never  before  saw  Montreal  to  so  much  advantage, 
never  before  took  in  the  appearance  of  the  two-mile 
tin-roofed  tubular  bridge,  stretching  from  shore  to 
shore,  with  such  nicety  of  view. 

On  the  entrance  lintel  of  the  stone  parapet,  above 
the  roadway,  I  saw  cut  the  following  inscription  : 

'  '  ERECTED,  A.D.  MDCCCLIX.  '''^"^      ' 

ROBERT  STEPHENSON  AND  ALEXANDER  M.  ROSS, 

'      •■■■'      ■■■■     ■■■  ENGINEERS.      '  "  r  •■: 

One  block  of  limestone  now  alone  remained  to  be 
lowered  into  place,  in  order  to  formally  complete  the 
great  practical  work  which  has  monopolized  so  Irrge 
a  share  of  public  attention,  and  that  block  was  now 
depending  by  a  chain  from  the  scaffolding  over  the 
grave  in  which  it  was  to  rest  till  disturbed  by  ruin. 

The  top  of  the  parapet  in  which  the  stone  was  to  be 
placed,  was  set  apart  for  the  gentlemen  of  the  press, 
and  this  was  the  best  possible  position  for  them.  From 
this  point  I  looked  down  on  dark  masses  of  men  as- 
sembled in  the  cool  shade  of  the  trackway,  and  who 
had  come  by  a  train  subsequent  to  the  one  mentioned, 
while  on  either  hand,  forming  a  beautiful  vista,  were 
long  rows  of  bonnets,  with  a  sprinkling  of  hats,  denot- 
ing as  many  ladies  and  gentlemen. 

At  twenty  minutes  to  two,  and  while  every  one,  to 
use  a  common  expression,  was  on  the  tip-toe  of  expect- 
ation, the  royal  car  arrived,  drawn  by  a  locomotive 
dressed  with  flags.  The  dark  masses  below  formed 
into  line  on  either  side  of  the  track,  and  there  was  a 
general  cheer.  The  Prince  jumped  from  the  car  on  to 
the  platform,  and,  accompanied  by  the  Governor  Gen- 
eral, the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Earl  St.  Germains,  Lord 
Lyons,  Lord  Mulgrave,  the  members  of  his  suite,  and  a 
few  others,  ascended  the  stairs  to  another  platform 
erected  a  little  below  the  level  of  the  base  the  stone 
was  to  occupy.  The  Prince  was  met  with  renewed 
cheers  on  reaching  this  elevation,  and  here  an  elegant 


ilfll 
hill!'' 


;U 


96 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :   OR, 


silver  trowel,  on  which  was  the  following  inscription, 
was  handed  to  him  by  the  contractor  for  the  work  : 
"  To  commemorate  the  completion  of  the  Victoria 
Bridge,  by  His  Royal  Highness,  Albert,  Prince  of 
Wales,  Montreal,  1860." 

His  Royal  Highness  then  stooped  and  spread  the 
mortar  which  had  been  previously  placed  there,  after 
which  he  returned  the  trowel  to  the  presenter,  who, 
having  wiped  it,  restored  it  to  its  case.  As  soon  as  the 
stone,  which  weighed  ten  tons,  was  lowered  into  place, 
the  Prince  gave  it  three  gentle  taps  with  the  mallet. 
The  ceremony  was  thus  far  completed,  and  the  Prince 
descended  the  steps,  and  re-entered  his  car,  in  order 
to  proceed  into  the  bridge,  and  hammer  the  last  rivet 
into  the  centre  tube. 

As  soon  as  the  rivet  was  driven  in  by  His  Royal 
Highness,  he  and  his  party  returned  to  Point  St. 
Charles,  and  l  ^tended  the  dejeuner,  which  was  given  in 
one*  of  the  car-shops  of  the  railway  company,  deco- 
rated for  the  occasion.  There  was  a  gallery  at  the 
head  of  the  room  devoted  to  the  use  of  the  Prince  and 
high  officials  accompanying  him. 

After  a  short  lapse  of  time,  the  Governor  Gen- 
eral proposed  the  health  of  the  Queen,  which  was  re- 
ceived with  hearty  cheers.  Prince  Albert  was  next 
toasted,  and  afterwards  "the  Prince  of  Wales,"  the 
latter  being  more  especially  greeted  with  tremendous 
applause. 

A  few  minutes  of  silence  only  intervened  before  the 
Prince  rose  and  proposed  "  The  health  of  the  Gover- 
nor General,  prosperity  to  Canada,  and  success  to  the 
Grand  Trunk  Railway." 

He  waved  his  glass  to  the  cheering,  and  evidently 
entered  into  the  feeling  with  much  warmth.  The 
royal  party  left  shortly  after  this,  and  no  further 
speech-making  took  place. 

The  illuminations  in  the  evening  were  the  finest 
that  the  Provinces  have  produced,  and  may  be  said  to 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


97 


have  been  universal.  The  ships  of  war  in  port  pre- 
sented a  very  fine  spectacle,  and  after  those  the  Place 
d'Armes  wore  the  most  brilliant  aspect. 


-./.  CHAPTER  XIII. 

The  Cricket-Ground — Indian  Games  and  Dances — The  Levee  and  the 
Citizens'  Ball — The  Prince  Encircled  by  Ropes — The  Concert — 
Cornwall — In  the  Rapids— Lachlne — The  Military  Review  and 
Return — Ottawa,  etc.  .  ^^v  .    ,   . 

On  Monday  morning  when,  at  a  few  minutes  before 
ten,  I  drove  to  the  cricket-ground  where  the  Indian 
games  were  to  take  place,  in  the  presence  of  the 
Prince,  I  found  an  immense  concourse  of  people  gath- 
ered, in  a  state  of  excitement,  in  front  of  a  small  door 
or  opening  in  a  paling  which  surrounded  the  limited 
territory  in  question. 

"  Keep  back,  keep  back,  you're  killing  these  ladies," 
was  the  cry  of  a  man  clinging  to  the  paling  above  the 
small  doorway,  and  who  kept  alternately  goading  and 
soothing  the  crowd  in  their  passage  from  purgatory  to 
paradise. 

As  I  walked  across  the  smooth  turf  towards  the 
stand  which  had  been  erected  on  the  town  side  of  tlie 
inclosure  for  the  accommodation  of  the  Prince  and. 
party,  I  saw  a  number  of  figures,  chiefly  Indian,  in 
tighlly  fitting  red  and  white  and  blue  and  red  gar- 
ments, standing  here  and  there  in  picturesque  groups. 
These  were  the  players.  Approaching  nearer,  I  saw 
that  the  Indians  wore  feathers  in  their  caps,  and  had 
their  faces  painted. 

At  ten  o'clock  the  Prince  arrived,  and  took  his  place 
on  the  stand  amid  loud  cheering. 

6  • 


t  ;■ 


4M 


m 


98 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


II 


The  first  Lacrosse  game  now  commenced  between 
sixty  of  the  Algonquin  tribe  and  an  equal  number  of 
the  Iroquois,  and,  after  a  spirited  contest,  was  given  in 
favor  of  the  latter,  in  order  to  enable  the  Prince  to 
witness  the  match  between  twenty-five  Montreal  gen- 
tlemen and  as  many  Algonquins.  Lacrosse  is  a  game 
combining  foot-ball  and  rackets,  or  raqucts,  as  it 
used  to  be  spelt.  There  is  one  ball  in  common,  and 
every  player  has  a  racket  or  bat  made  of  twigs.  It 
is  the  object  of  the  one  side  to  keep  the  ball  as  much 
in  one  direction  as  possible,  and  strike  into  a  space 
called  the  jail,  and  of  tlic  other  to  do  exactly  the  re- 
verse. 

The  first  two  games  were  won  easily  by  the  red 
men,  but  in  the  third  the  whites  were  victorious. 

Now  commenced  the  war-dance,  in  which  about 
twenty  painted  Indians,  in  very  warlike  garb,  and 
fully  armed  for  battle  with  tomahawks,  scalping 
knives,  and  other  tragic  weapons,  formed  themselves 
into  a  ring  with  one  of  their  number  in  the  centre, 
who  engaged  himself  in  the  occupation  of  beating  a 
drum  and  singing. 

While  dancing  they  uttered  a  harsh  refrain,  and 
most  of  them  remained  stooping  with  their  hands  rest- 
ing on  their  tliighs  during  the  monotony  ;  then  yelling 
and  changing  their  position  for  one  exceedingly  fierce, 
in  which  they  brandished  their  knives  in  each  other's 
faces,  they  assumed  as  many  distortions  of  legs,  arms, 
body,  and  face,  as  an  Australian  aborigine  in  the  midst 
of  a  corrobberri. 

The  war-dance  was  the  most  amusing  feature  of  the 
whole  performance,  and  the  Prince  laughed  in  evident 
enjoyment  of  savage  antics,  the  squaws  in  front  of 
two  or  three  bark  wigwams  beneath,  meanwhile  eye- 
ing him  as  a  being  of  whose  position  among  the  pale 
faces  they  would  like  to  know  more. 

A  race  between  twenty  of  each  tribe  came  next,  and 
these  ran  from  the  centre  of  the  field  up  to  and  through 


THE   PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


99 


tne  flags,  then  back  again  through  the  opposite  flags 
to  the  starting  point.  The  running  was  not  as  swift 
as  I  anticipated,  and  the  race  was  won  by  an  Iroquois. 

This  was  succeeded  by  a  fourth  game  of  lacrosse,  in 
the  midst  of  which  and  at  eleven  o'clock  a  shower  fell, 
and  His  Royal  Highness,  left  the  grounds  in  the  car- 
riage by  which  he  came,  accompanied  by  the  Governor 
General,  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Lord  Lyons,  and  his 
own  suite.  The  standard  was  lowered  on  the  flagstaff 
over  the  stand,  and  cheers  followed  the  royal  party 
along  the  moistened  ranks. 

Tlie  levee  was  appointed  to  take  place  at  noon,  and 
at  a  few  moments  before  that  hour  the  Prince  arrived, 
in  uniform,  under  an  escort  of  volunteer  cavalry,  and 
accompanied  by  all  the  noblemen  and  gentlemen  who 
had  attended  him  at  the  levee  at  Quebec.  He  was  re- 
ceived by  the  Highland  Company  of  Rifles,  acting  as 
the  guard  of  honor. 

The  levee  was  held  in  the  Advocates'  Library,  and 
about  two  thousand  presentations  took  place.' 

The  next  great  event  of  the  day  was  the  citizens' 
ball.  I  went  there  at  a  few  minutes  before  ten  o'clock, 
and  found  myself  auiong  a  throng  of  three  or  four 
thousand  gathered  in  the  largest  circular  ball-room  I 
ever  danced  in.  • 

It  is  somewhat  dry  work  giving  the  measurement  of 
such  a  room  on  such  an  occasion,  but  I  will,  neverthe- 
less, descend  from  the  poetry  of  the  scene  to  the  bare 
facts.  I  was  in  a  circular  room,  the  circumference  of 
which  was  three  hundred  and  seventy -five  feet,  and 
which  had,  consequently,  a  diameter  of  two  hundred 
and  fifteen  fett,  and  a  superficial  space  of  thirty-two 
thousand  ditto,  with  a  gallery  above,  extending  around 
the  whole  rotunda,  where  well-dressed  beauty  sat  in 
pride,  gazing  on  the  festive  scene. 

In  the  centre  was  the  stand  occupied  by  the  band, 
and  round  tliis  was  the  grand  promenade. 

The  Prince  arrived  at  ten  o'clock,  up  to  which  time 


MS 


*   (■ 


!  1 


'1  n 


m 


100 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


l^i 


no  dancing  had  taken  place.  Gas-burners  circled  the 
building  in  tliree  rows,  and  produced  a  brilliant  effect, 
for  light  is  an  important  clement  in  these  grand  gath- 
erings of  the  elite.  The  refreshment  stalls  were  ar- 
ranged round  the  extreme  circle,  and  here  cliampagne 
on  draught,  and  thick  slices  of  cold  corned  beef,  were 
to  be  obtained  ;  but  no  sherry,  or  port,  or  any  drinks 
of  a  vinoufj  or  alcoholic  nature,  more  than  the  said 
draught  champagne  and  some  questionable  claret. 

The  Prince  entered  the  ball-room  from  his  dressing- 
room  in  a  secluded  part  of  the  gallery,  and  accompa- 
nied by  his  usual  suite  in  uniform.  There  was  a  cheer, 
and  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  was  played  by  the  band. 
The  royal  party  was  conducted  to  a  box  situated  be- 
tween two  red  ropes,  meant  to  act  as  barriers  in  pre- 
venting other  than  a  select  circle  dancing  in  that  vi- 
cinity. Everybody  was  crying  out  against  these  ropes, 
and  it  would  have  been  the  most  popular  act  that  His 
Royal  Highness  could  have  done  to  have  gone  beyOnd 
this  local  boundary,  but,  unfortunately,  he  danced  there 
all  the  evening,  and  being  shut  up,  had  a  crowd  around 
him  all  the  time,  which  crowd  was  as  solid  and  hard 
to  move  as  a  wall.  The  noblemen  and  gentlemen  of 
His  Royal  Highness'  suite  were,  therefore,  unable  to 
move  about  and  say  "  How  d'you  ?"  to  their  friends 
and  acquaintances,  and  two  of  them  went  to  sleep 
in  their  chairs,  and  remained  so  during  the  greater 
part  of  the  evening. 

The  only  approach  that  has  ever  been  made  to  such 
a  ball-room,  was  by  the  Theatre  Francais,  at  Paris, 
when  boarded  over  immediately  after  the  carnival, 
and  used  as  a  public  salle  ;  but  its  inferior  size  places 
it  far  below  the  great  ball-room  of  Montreal.  Yet  the 
ball  at  Montreal  was  all  show  and  no  comfort. 

The  roof  of  the  building  was  tastefully  colored,  but 
its  supports  or  pillars  were  only  parallelogramic  lengths 
of  timber,  whitewashed  and  scantily  wreathed  with 
evergreens. 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


101 


The  Prince  remained  till  a  few  minutes  past  four 
o'clock,  and  received  a  general  cheer  as  he  left  the 
room  through  the  passage  way  formed  for  his  depart- 
ure. 

The  weather  was  fortunately  fine  when,  on  the  next 
morning  at  eleven  o'clock,  the  Prince  drove  from  his 
residence  to  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway  station,  where 
he  and  his  suite  took  their  places  in  the  royal  car  and 
started  for  Cornwall. 

Cornwall  is  a  new  and  by  no  means  French-looking 
or  French-i-peaking  town,  but  pure  Anglo-Saxon.  It 
is  situated  about  live  miles  from  the  boundary  line 
between  the  United  States  and  Canada,  which  runs 
through  the  village  of  St.  Regis,  inhabited  chiefly  by 
Indians,  half  of  whom  acknowledge  themselves  under 
the  sway  of  Great  Britain,  while  the  remainder  lay 
claim  to  tlie  protection  of  the  United  States. 

Cornwall  has  among  other  things  a  conspicuous 
churcli  and  court-house,  and  is  the  chief  township  of 
the  eastern  district,  and  one  of  the  most  populous  and 
best  situated  of  the  divisions  of  Upper  Canada,  it 
being  bounded  on  two  sides  bv  the  broad  waters  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  respectively.  A  canal 
extends  from  this  over  a  distance  of  twelve  miles, 
parallel  with  the  Long  Sault  Rapids,  at  the  foot  of 
which  the  town  lies. 

Here  the  Prince  and  party  on  their  arrival  were 
received  with  much  enthusiasm,  and  embarked  on 
board  the  steamer  Kingston,  which  had  come  up  on 
the  previous  day  in  order  to  be  in  readiness  for  the 
trip  down. 

The  St.  Lawrence  a  little  below  this  point  expands 
into  a  lake,  and  presents  a  fine  sweep  of  prospect.  As 
the  steamer  glided  away,  the  royal  party  were  assem- 
bled on  deck,  and  tliere^  they  remained  during  most 
of  the  passage. 

St.  Regis  Island,  situated  mid-channel,  was  the  first 
object  that  was  remarked  upon,  as  the  steamer  sped 


'   'I 


Y  "r   l» 


1 ' ) 


102 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


onward  towards  the  lake,  witli  the  royal  standard 
floating  from  lier  topmast.  The  steamer  on  entering 
the  lake  passed  between  Sqnaw  and  Butternut  Islands, 
with  tiic  lighthouse  on  Lancaster  Shoal  within  easy- 
view. 

The  steamer  was  now  ste^  1  close  past  a  floating 
lighthouse,  and  so  on  to  .rry  Island  light,  with 
McGecs'  Point  visible  on  the  northern  shore,  and  the 
Rapids  of  Coteau  du  Lac  straight  ahead. 

Coteau  du  Lac  is  a  small  village  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
St.  Francis,  ond  twelve  miles  from  the  Cascades.  Both 
by  name  and  nature  its  French  origin  is  distinctly 
traceable. 

On  the  right  bank  the  shore  now  appeared  studded 
with  those  little  stone  churches  and  comfortable  farm- 
houses and  neat  farms  so  characteristic  of  the  French 
Canadian  Territory. 

The  Coteau  Rapids  were  run  just  below  the  village, 
and  then  came  the  Cedar  Rapids,  extending  from  the 
village  of  Cedars  on  the  north  shore  to  that  of  St. 
Timothe  on  the  opposite  one,  both  sides  of  the  river 
being  Canadian  below  Cornwall. 

A  group  of  sixteen  islands  interrupted  the  navigation 
at  the  Coteau  du  Lac  Rapids,  the  tirst  of  these  latter 
being  between  Giron  Island  and  the  mainland  ;  the 
second  between  French  Island  and  those  of  Maple  and 
Thorn,  and  the  third  between  Prisoner's  and  Broad 
Islands,  after  which  the  steamer  shot  into  smooth  water 
opposite  Grand  Island. 

This  newly  earned  tranquillity,  however,  was  of  short 
duration  ;  for  the  steamer  was  soon  darting  from  ledge 
to  ledge  through  the  Irarrying  waters  of  the  Cedars, 
the  village  of  that  name  lying  on  the  north  shore  and 
Beauharnois  on  the  south.  Emerging  from  these 
rapids,  the  steamer  was  again  at  rest ;  soon,  however, 
to  be  again  disturbed  by  the  turbulent  bed  of  the  Cas- 
cade Rapids,  tumbling  over  a  chain  of  bars.  These 
are  situated  between   Cascades  Point  and  Buisson 


THE  PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


103 


Point,  where  the  St.  Lawrence  expands  into  Lake  St. 
Louis,  and  the  bright  and  rolling  waters  of  the  Ottawa 
mingle  on  the  northern  shore  with  those  of  the  sister 
river.  From  this  lovely  scene  the  steamer  now 
ploughed  her  way  over  the  lake  to  the  town  of  La- 
chine,  on  the  north  bank,  and  nearly  opposite  the  In- 
dian village  of  Caughnawaga. 

Lachine  is  situated  a  short  distance  above  the  rapids 
of  that  name  and  nine  miles  from  Montreal.  But,  al- 
though so  near,  the  royal  party  preferred  landing  and 
returning  to  town  by  railway  to  descending  these,  the 
most  swift  and  wild  of  all  the  rapids  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence ;  and  they  accordingly  disembarked. 

Ldchine  is  the  headquarters  of  the  Hudson  Bay 
Company  in  North  America,  and  the  residence  of  its 
Governor.  A  number  of  voyageurs  were  here  assem- 
bled, and  these  manned  their  boats  in  honor  of  the 
Prince,  and  cheered  loudly.  The  royal  party  after- 
wards returned  to  town  by  railway,  and  at  half-past 
ten  arrived  for  the  second  time  at  the  ball-room, 
where  all  the  musical  talent  of  the  country  had 
assembled  in  the  cause  of  a  musical  festival. 

The  room  was  crowded  with  a  galaxy  of  beauty  in 
full  dress,  more  so  even  than  on  the  previous  evening. 
The  first  division  was  performed  by  the  Montreal 
Oratorio  Society.  This  was  followed  by  a  recess  of 
more  than  an  hour.  Then  a  solo  was  executed  by  a 
gentleman  member  of  the  Montreal  Musical  Union, 
which  consisted  of  over  two  hundred  and  fifty  per- 
formers, all  of  whom  were  assembled  on  the  raised 
circular  platform  in  the  centre  of  the  room. 

Soon  after  this  the  royal  party  arrived. 

At  its  close  the  grand  cantata,  composed  in  honor 
of  the  visit  of  the  Prince,  was  performed  by  the  two 
hundred  and  fifty  referred  to.  Following  this  came 
the  concert  by  the  professional  artistes. 

The  whole  concluded  near  midnight  with  "  God 
save  the  Queen."  ;-  s- 


4 


i  ;; 


104 


\r 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


Lady  Franklin  was  present  and  after  His  Royal 
Hip^hness  had  retired,  the  chairman  of  the  Committee 
of  Management,  conducted  l?cr  to  the  chair  vacated  by 
the  Prince,  upon  which  she  was  recognized  by  the 
audience,  wiio  rose  and  greeted  her  with  several  rounds 
of  applause. 

TIio  review  on  the  next  morning  was  a  tolerable 
success.  The  companies  and  troops  comprising  the 
volunteer  forces  were  assembled  on  the  ground  at 
Logan's  farm  soon  after  ten  o'clock.  At  eleven  the 
Prince  arrived,  when  his  standard  was  run  up  on  the 
flagstaff  there  erected,  the  field  battery  meanwliile 
occupying  a  place  on  the  extreme  left,  ^acing  tlie  flag- 
staff, and  the  first  and  second  troops  of  cavalry*  oc- 
cupying a  position  on  the  hill,  near  and  to  the  right 
of  the  flagstaff,  with  the  light  infantry  formed  to 
the  right  of  the  cavalry,  the  rifles  on  the  left,  and 
foot  artillery  companies  on  the  right  of  the  field  bat- 
tery. ^  • 

The  line  being  thus  formed,  the  battery  fired  a  royal 
salute,  and  as  the  Prince  rode  up  to  the  place  reserved 
for  him  the  brigade  presented  arms  and  tlie  Prince's 
band  playeu  "  God  save  the  Queen." 

Tlie  Prince  at  once  commenced  an  inspection  of  the 
line,  comtnencing  with  the  cavalry  and  riding  down  to 
the  extreme  end,  on  reaching  which  he  turned  and 
passed  slowly  up  the  rear.  This  finished,  the  Prince 
led  back  to  the  flagstaff  and  faced  the  line,  which  broke 
and  marched  past  in  quick  time,  the  salutations  of  the 
officers  being  returned  by  the  Prince.  The  brigade 
marched  back  to  the  same  ground,  formed  in  quarter- 
distance  column,  and  again  marched  by.  Line  was  re- 
formed on  the  original  ground,  and  the  cavalry  and 
battery  retired  to  the  rear  of  the  cavalry  supporting 
the  battalion,  which  changed  front  obliquely  to  the 
right  on  the  centre  company  of  rifles.  Here,  at  the 
double,  two  companies  of  rifles  advanced  and  extended 
right  and  left  in  skirmishing  order,  after  which  they 


th'j 


THE   PRINCE   OF    WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


105 


right 


commenced  firing,  but  with  little  effect,  for  the  order 
to  retire  was  given  and  tlic  Bkirmishers  retreated  in 
quick  time,  liring  as  they  went  to  their  supports. 

Line  was  once  more  deployed,  and  the  companies 
commenced  firing  by  platoons,  the  battery  meanwhile 
loading,  0})cned  lire  with  two  guns  at  either  end  of 
th'j  line.  This  mock  cannonading  was  kept  up  for  a 
time  when  the  brigade  cavalry  advanced  from  the  left 
and  charged  in  a  very  spirited  manner  to  clear  the 
ground  of  the  remnants  of  the  enemy. 

Soon  after  this  the  square  deployed  and  formed  in 
line,  and,  advancing  in  slow  time,  presented  arms. 
The  royal  party  then  left  the  grounds. 

Afterwards  the  Prince  and  suite  drove  to  Lachine, 
where  they  arrived  about  three  o'clock. 

The  royal  party  embarked  in  four  of  the  Valorous' 
boats  and  were  rowed  across  to  the  island  of  Dorval, 
the  residence  of  Sir  George  Simpson.  ..  ' 

When  about  mid-channel  they  were  met  by  ten  ca- 
noes, each  manned  by  a  dozen  Indians,  who  formed  a 
double  line,  between  which  the  man-of-war  boats  pass- 
ed, to  the  music  of  an  Indian  salute  from  those  on 
board  the  canoes. 

His  Royal  Highness  only  remained  about  half  an 
hour  at  the  house  before  he  went  on  board  an  Indian 
canoe,  to  be  paddled  round  the  island  to  the  before 
mentioned  village  of  Caughnawaga,  and  back  to  La- 
chine.  This  was  done  to  the  evident  pleasure  of  En- 
gland's eldest  son,  after  which  he  returned  to  town  by 
steamer  down  the  Lachine  Rapids.     • 

It  was  a  great  day  for  the  good  folks  of  the  Eastern 
townships  St.  Hyacinthe  and  Sherbrooke,  when  on 
Thursday  morning  the  Prince  made  his  appearance 
among  them. 

The  royal  party  left  Montreal  at  ten,  and  reached 
the  former  place  after  an  hour's  ride  by  railway,  the 
intermediate  stations  being  decorated  with  spruce, 
mottoes,  and  words  of  welcome. 


'  m 


n 


Sit 


r 


9 


106 


KOYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   QR, 


k§' 


\y< 


A  platform  liad  been  erected  for  tlie  occasion,  on  to 
which  the  Prince  stepped  from  the  car  amid  tlie  cheers 
of  nearly  the  whole  population.  He  was  received  by 
the  Mayor  and  Council,  and  the  members  of  tlie  Local 
Reception  Committee.  Carriages  being  in  attendance, 
he  drove  to  the  College  Building  through  streets 
abounding  in  triumphal  arches,  and  rich  in  minor  dec- 
orationp  Here  three  addresses  were  presented  to 
him,  after  which  he  ascended  to  the  roof  of  the  build- 
ing, and  had  a  fine  view  of  the  surrounding  scenery, 
which  is  of  extreme  beauty.  On  his  return  to  the  sta- 
tion the  cheers  were  renewed  with  undiminished  en- 
thusiasm. At  noon  he  reached  Sherbrooke,  and  re- 
ceived and  replied  to  an  address  from  the  Mayor,  after 
which  he  drove  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Gait  under  a 
series  of  arches,  and  amid  the  ringing  of  church  bells, 
and  the  cheers  of  thousands,  many  of  the  fair  among 
whom  threw  bouquets  into  his  carriage.  The  house 
stood  on  the  summit  of  a  hill  commanding  a  pleasing 
view  of  the  St.  Francis  River  winding  through  a  val- 
ley beneath,  and  was  tastefully  decorated  with  spruce, 
flowers,  and  mottoes.  The  ground  in  front  was  filled 
with  ladies,  so  that  the  scene  by  no  means  lacked  ani- 
mation. ^ 

Immediately  after  entering,  His  Royal  Highness 
held  an  informal  levee  in  his  traveling  costume,  there 
being  no  restrictions  as  to  dress  on  the  part  of  those 
presented. 

At  the  conclusion  of  this  ceremony  a  touching  inci- 
dent occurred,  *vhich  speaks  well  for  the  good  feel- 
ing of  the  Prince.  A  gentleman  who  had  been  long 
residing  here,  was,  in  his  youth,  signal  midshipman 
on  NcIsol's  flag-ship,  the  Victory,  at  the  memorable 
battle  of  Trafalgar,  and  afterwards  at  the  battle  of 
Copenhagen,  in  both  of  which  actions  he  earned  med- 
als, but  unluckily  was  ofl&cer  of  the  watch  on  board 
the  sloop  of  war  Carieux,  when,  during  the  block- 
ade of  Guadaloupe  in  1809,  she  struck  on  a  rock  and 


THE   PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


107 


was  wrecked.  This  resulted  in  his  being  dismissed 
the  service. 

His  Royal  Highness,  on  being  told  of  these  circum- 
stances, at  once,  in  the  exercise  of  his  prerogative,  and 
with  much  show  of  kindly  warmth,  restored  him  to  the 
position  in  the  Royal  Navy  which  he  had  lost.  The 
graceful  manner  in  which  this  was  signified,  was  only 
second  to  the  generosity  of  the  act  itself. 

Lunch  followed,  during  which  repast  the  Prince  dis- 
played his  usual  cordiality,  and  when  he  returned  to 
the  railway  car,  the  demonstrations  on  all  sides  were 
as  unbounded  as  human  nature  was  capable  of. 

In  the  evening  the  Prince  and  suite  were  present 
by  invitation,  at  a  people's  ball  in  the  great  room  at 
Montreal,  but  did  not  dance.  Shooting-coats  and  bon- 
nets were  plentifully  displayed  by  the  great  unwashed, 
who  honored  the  event  with  their  presence. 

Early  on  the  next  morning,  Friday,  the  royal  party- 
departed  by  steamer  for  Ottaw^a. 

It  was  a  matter  of  general  regret  there  that  the 
weather  was  so  wet  and  the  day  so  advanced  when 
His  Royal  Highness  landed  that  evening,  for  rain  and 
darkness  combined  tended  very  much  to  lessen  the 
effect  of  both  the  aquatic  and  street  processions,  al- 
though the  former  was  still  a  sight  rare  in  its  pictur- 
esque beauty.  The  hundred  and  more  bark  canoes 
manned  by  six  times  as  many  men  all  in  bright  red,  or 
blue  shirts,  brimmed  hats,  and  white  trowsers,  and 
every  canoe  looking  as  new  and  showy  as  the  men's 
shirts,  and  with  a  flag  at  the  bow  and  another  at  the 
Btern,  while  the  si^^  hundred  odd  paddles  feathered 
with  spray  played  in  unison  together,  with  the  royal 
steamer  advancing  in  the  centre  of  this  flotilla,  and 
several  other  excursion  steamers  following  at  a  re- 
spectful distance,  made  up  a  picture  of  unrivaled  in- 
terest. 

There  was  a  triumphal  arch  under  which  royalty 
Bteppe4  frQDi  tl^^  stejimer  to  the  shore,  greeted  with 


'■'ym 


m 


108 


ROYALTY   IN   TKF3   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


*• 


the  thrilling  cheers  of  thousands  gathered  like  pelicans 
and  penguins — men  and  women — on  the  edge  of  the 
cliffs  overlooking  the  river,  and  near  the  landing  place 
and  wherever  else  a  view  of  the  fleet  could  be  obtain- 
ed from  the  Falls  of  the  Chaudiere,  to  the  promontory 
at  Rockliffe. 

The  Mayor  was  at  the  landing  place  in  his  robes, 
surrounded  by  the  other  municipal  dignitaries,  and  de- 
livered tlie  usual  address,  which  was  as  promptly  re- 
plied to,  after  which  the  procession  groped  its  way  to 
the  royal  quarters. 

At  a  few  minutes  before  eleven  on  Saturday  morn- 
ing, I  drove  through  streets  as  muddy  as  those  of 
Melbourne  at  the  time  of  the  gold  mania,  to  witness 
the  laying  of  the  corner-stone  of  the  public  buildings. 
On  reaching  the  gates  leading  to  the  works,  in  front 
of  which,  and  down  the  street  as  far  as  the  Victoria 
Hotel,  or  Prince's  quarters,  an  immense  concourse  of 
people  had  assembled.  It  was  quite  an  adventure 
passing  up  the  inner  roadway  to  the  desired  spot,  so 
crowded  was  it  with  men,  women,  and  children,  and 
so  encumbered  with  all  sorts  of  lumber. 
*  Being  occasionally  a  little  wiser  than  my  neighbors, 
I  succeeded  in  taking  my  stand  among  the  members 
of  the  Legislature  in  the  appointed  place,  my  ticket 
being  the  same  as  their  own,  and  so  had  a  full  view 
of  the  interesting  ceremony. 

His  Royal  Highness,  preceded  by  his  equerries,  and 
attended  by  the  members  of  his  suite,  arrived  in  open 
carriages  and  full  uniform  at  eleven,  and  took  their 
places,  together  with  the  Canadian  Ministers,  on  the 
canopied  platform  in  the  northeast  angle  of  the  build- 
ing, and  fronting  the  white  marble  block  which  was 
to  become  the  great  corner-stone. 

The  Prince  stood  in  the  centre  of  the  dais,  with  the 
Governor  General  on  his  right,  and  the  Duke  of  New- 
castle on  his  left.  The  Legislature  occupied  the  front 
seats  on  either  side  of  the  platform,  und  in  their  rear 


fr 


,  and 
open 
their 
)n  the 
juild- 
was 

th  the 
New- 
front 
rear 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


109 


were  amphiiheatric  stands,  crowded  with  ladies  and 
p^entlemen.  Behind  the  block,  which  was  suspended 
from  a  derrick  by  a  rope  intertwined  with  red  cord, 
and  a  pulley  which  was  gilded,  stood  the  architects, 
the  contractors,  the  Mayor,  arid  members  of  the  City 
Council,  together  with  other  gentlemen  locally  con- 
nected with  the  works.  One  of  these  now  commenced 
laying  mortar  on  the  base  it  was  to  rest  on,  after 
which,  while  the  block  swung  from  the  derrick  pre- 
paratory to  the  lowering,  so  as  to  be  highly  suggest- 
ive of  a  coffin,  the  chaplain  of  the  Legislature  ad- 
vanced, and  heightened  the  funereal  effect  by  reading 
a  short  prayer,  concluding  with  that  of  our  Lord. 
The  Prince  then  descended  from  the  dais,  and  receiv- 
ing a  chastely  worked  silver  trowel,  stooped  and 
spread  the  mortar  over  the  foundation,  immediately 
following  which  the  block  was  lowered  to  its  grave. 
The  royal  hand  gave  it  three  taps  with  the  mallet ; 
the  Governor  General  came  forward,  and  placing  his 
hand  on  it  said,  "  Your  Royal  Highness,  the  stone  is 
now  laid  ;"  there  was  a  glorious  cheer,  repeated  again 
and  again,  from  the  assembled  multitude,  whose  un- 
covered heads  were  hot  in  the  sun,  and  the  ceremony 
was  over. 

The  gentlemen  connected  with  the  works  were  then 
introduced  to  the  frince,  after  which  the  royal  party 
inspected  tlie  models,  and  walked  round  as  far  as  tfte 
cliff  overlooking  the  river,  making  the  best  progress 
they  could  over  building  materials,  and,  having  there 
enjoyed  the  view,  returned  to  the  hotel  which  closely 
adjoined,  where  at  noon  a  levee  was  held,  the  attend- 
ance being  very  full. 

A  drive  and  a  public  dejeuner  followed,  after  which 
His  Royal  Highness  descended  on  a  crib  of  wood  the 
timber  slide  on  the  right  side  of  the  Chaudiere  Falls. 
He  then  sailed  down  the  river  in  a  six-oared  boat  to 
witness  some  canoe  races,  which  were  conducted  with 
spirit. 


if 


110 


ROYALXr  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


In  the  evening  the  town  was  illuminated.  -^ 

The  Prince  attended  the  English  church  on  the  Sun- 
day, and  at  eight  on  the  next  morning  a  salute  from 
the  Ottawa  field-battery  proclaimed  his  departure. 


,f  ••- 


CHAPTER  XIV.  ^     ' 

Enthusiasm  and  Warmth  of  the  People — Torch-light  and  Firemen's 
Processions,  and  Departure  of  the  Prince — The  Scenery  among 
the  Thousand  Isles— The  Trip  from  Broclcville — Arrival  at  Kings- 
ton— the  Preparations  for  the  Reception — The  Disappointment  of 
the  Multitude,  and  the  Obstinacy  of  the  Orangemen,  etc. 

A  PLEASANT  country  drive  brought  His  Royal  High- 
ness to  the  village  of  Aylmer,  where  a  steamer  was 
in  waiting  to  convey  him  up  the  river  Ottawa,  on  his 
way  to  Brockville,  and  a  large  crowd  had  gathered 
from  the  neighboring  townships,  and  triumphal  arches 
spanned  the  roads. 

It  was  pleasing  to  see  the  enthusiasm  alike  mani- 
fested by  men,  women,  and  children,  to  watch  the 
flutter  of  pocket-handkerchiefs,  an(^the  waving  of  hats 
in  the  bright,  warm  sunshine.  Here  was  another  of 
those  popular  outbursts  of  genuine  good-feeling  which 
met  Albert  Edward  throughout  his  travels  in  the 
New  World.  Decrepit  age  and  elastic  boyhood,  young 
maidens  and  grave  matrons,  vied  with  each  other  in 
the  chorus  of  welcome  to  England's  eldest  son,  who  ac- 
knowledged the  flattering  homage  in  a  smiling  manner 
which  won  all  hearts. 

He  embarked  without  delay,  and  the  steamer  started 
immediately  for  Chats'  Portage,  where  a  fleet  of  canoes, 
furnished  by  the  lumbermen  of  the  district,  were  in 
waiting  to  convey  him  to  Arnprior.  The  sceftery  «,long 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


Ill 


this  part  of  the  Ottawa  was  vei7  fine,  and  called  forth 
expressions  of  admiration  from  all. 

The  Prince  takes  to  traveling  with  the  zeal  of  an 
old  tourist ;  so  that  he  enjoyed  tlio  trip  exceedingly, 
and  such  enjoyment  was  contagious,  for  he  puts  all 
around  him  in  good  spirits. 

Arnprior  was  next  reached,  and  here  arches  and 
garlands,  and  words  of  welcome  again  appeared  in 
ornamental  array  ;  and  cheers  arose  in  a  prodigal- 
ity of  joy  which  touched  the  heart  of  him  for  whom 
they  were  meant.  The  scene  at  Aylmer  was  re-enact- 
ed, and  the  beautiful  weather  enhanced  the  festive 
glory  of  the  scene. 

A  line  of  carriages  was  here  drawn  up  to  convey 
the  royal  party  to  Almonte,  distant  eighteen  miles. 
Here  and  there  along  the  road,  spruce  and  pine  trees 
were  planted,  and  wreaths  of  flowers  hung  out,  while 
in  several  instances  rustic  belles,  who  had  long  been 
waiting  in  anxious  expectation  of  the  royal  presence, 
threw  bouquets  into  one  or  the  other  of  the  carriages, 
for  they  were  uncertain  as  to  which  was  the  Prince's 
when  they  saw  all  in  plain  dress,  and  many  let  the 
Prince  go  by  under  the  delusion  that  he  had  yet  to 
come. 

At  Almonte  there  was  another  warm  and  pictur- 
esque demonstration,  which  gladdened  the  souls  of  all 
who  either  participated  in  or  witnessed  it.  Grave 
men  relaxed  their  features,  and  joined  in  the  gay  and 
brilliant  scene  of  rejoicing.  "  Lo,  England's  heir  has 
come !  Welcome,  welcome  I"  was  one  of  the  public 
inscriptions  on  an  archway  that  spanned  the  road  at 
the  railway  station.  Here  the  Prince  entered  the 
royal  car  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railway,  and  receded 
from  the  view  in  the  midst  of  the  same  waving  of  hats, 
the  same  fluttering  of  handkerchiefs,  the  same  ringing 
cheers  of  a  loyal  people,  as  before — of  a  people  who 
felt  that  this  visit  was  another  tie  that  bound  them  to 
the  parent  land. 


4i 


i 


'  1  ii  ■  I 


il 


112 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :   OR, 


At  twenty  minutes  to  eiglit  the  train  reached  Brock- 
ville,  when  the  greatest  crowd  that  Brockville  ever 
gathered  was  seen  at  the  railway  station. 

On  stepping  on  to  the  platform  the  cheering  pre- 
vented anything  else  being  heard  for  several  minutes  ; 
but  when  this  burst  of  joy  and  welcome  had  subsided, 
the  Mayor  of  the  town,  accompanied  by  several  mem- 
bers of  the  Common  Council,  advanced  and  read  an 
address,  to  which  His  Royal  Highness  replied. 

The  Prince  was  conducted  to  his  carriage,  in  which 
he  took  his  seat  beside  the  Governor  General*,  with 
His  Grace  the  Duke  of  Newca^le  on  the  opposite  seat. 
A  torch-light  procession  of  the  firemen  and  others  was 
in  waiting,  and  a  general  illumination  had  the  effect, 
in  the  midst  of  the  triumphal  arches,  and  other  ever- 
gi'een  and  floral  decorations,  of  lending  a  species  of 
fairy  enchantment  to  the  scene,  which  was  one  of  the 
prettiest  I  have  ever  seen — far  more  so  than  that  of 
the  great  Japanese  ball.  The  flaring  torches  in  the 
background,  the  exploding  rockets  high  above,  the 
brilliant  transparencies  spanning  the  streets,  the  Chi- 
nese lanterns  swinging  from  roofs  and  windows  and 
arches,  the  distant  bonfires,  the  ringing  church  bells 
and  the  ringing  cheers,  combined  to  make  a  spectacle 
as  brilliant  as  it  wls  exciting.  The  procession  then 
moved  forward  towards  the  steamer  Kingston,  at  the 
wharf — the  firemen  and  other  torch-bearers  following 
in  the  rear,  and  while  saluted  with  fire-works,  tliat 
lent  a  terribly  lurid  aspect  to  the  whole,  at  every  point 
of  their  progress. 

The  display  was  highly  creditable  to  the  townspeo- 
ple, many  of  whom,  however,  went  home  very  much 
disappointed  at  having  been  unable  to  catcbji  glimpse 
of  the  royal  visitor.  ^^ 

On  the  next  morning  the  Prince  apipeared  on  the 
steamer's  deck  at  nine  o'clock,  and,  being  recognized 
by  those  ashore,  there  was  great  cheering.  The 
steamer,  being  anchored  a  short  distance  midstream. 


THE   PRINCR   OP   WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


113 


was  surrounded  by  numerous  boats  filled  with  those 
eager  to  -ee  him.  At  a  quarter  to  eleven  he  gratified 
a  general  wih  by  coming  ashore  in  a  small  boat,  and 
driving  through  the  principal  streets  of  the  town.  All 
the  resources  of  the  place  were  taxed  to  provide  car- 
riages for  the  party,  and  with  tolerable  success,  al- 
though there  was  a  great  want  of  uniformity  in  the 
size,  color,  and  shape  of  the  vehicles  and  horses  en- 
listed in  the  service.  The  Prince  took  his  place  in  an 
open  carriage  by  the  side  of  the  Governor  General, 
while  the  Duke  of  Newcastle  and  Earl  St.  Germains 
sat  opposite.  Lord  Lyons  and  the  suite  followed  in 
separate  carriages.  The  streets  were  very  dusty,  ow- 
ing partly  to  the  crowd  that  ran  alongside  and  before 
and  behind  the  Prince's  carriage,  which  was  guarded  by 
two  policemen,  one  at  either  side,  armed  witli  batons. 
The  royal  party  had  to  keep  their  eyes  half  shut  for  a 
while,  but  afterwards  the  clouds  diminished  both  in 
Yohune  and  density.  The  drive  lasted  about  half  an 
hour.  -^  ^^ 

At  twenty  minutes  past  twelve  the  Kingston  steamed 
away,  and  in  a  few  minutes  afterwards  was  pursuing 
her  course  among  the  Thousand  Islands. 

The  weather  was  fortunately  warm  and  sunny,  and 
the  granite  islands  were  seen  to  great  advantage. 
Here  nature  appeared  to  have  fancifully  prepared  a 
grand  prftaceniuni  to  feast  the  traveler's  eye,  for  noth- 
ing could  have  exceeded  in  singularity  the  scene  that 
presented  itself.  The  mighty  St.  Lawrence — the  Iro- 
quois of  the  red  maU'^liCTe,  in  ages  long  elapsed,  urged 
its  vexed  waters,  before  pent  up  in  the  vast  inland  ba- 
sin of  North  America,  against  that  portion  of  the 
primitive  barrier  which  visibly  extends  from  the  gran- 
ite mountains  of  the  East  over  to  the  dividing  ridge 
between  tha  wild  regions  of  Hudson  Bay  and  the  tribu- 
tary waters  of  the  Ottawa  and  the  St,  Lawrence  ;  and 
here,  by  some  tremendous  effort  which  has  evidently 
shaken  the  whole  country  from  Kingston,  at  the  east* 


mm 


114 


ROYALTY    IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


ern  extremity  of  Lake  Ontario,  to  the  other  side  of  the 
region  through  which  tlie  granite  ridge  pursues  its 
northwesterly  course,  the  river  has  at  one  time  rushed 
over  a  sheet  of  cascades  and  rapids  miles  in  breadth, 
but  which  have  long  disappeared  under  the  wearing 
influence  of  time.  Island  succeeded  island,  group  suc- 
ceeded group,  till  the  eye  almost  wearied  of  the  suc- 
cession. Most  of  these  were  beautifully  wooded,  and 
many  of  them  so  low  and  flat  as  to  suggest  to  the  mind 
the  tranquil  prospect  of  an  Italian  lagoon.  Others 
again  were  split  and  rent  into  a  variety  of  fantastic 
forms,  forming  views  of  peculiar  wildness.  A  turn  of 
the  channel  disclosed  a  new  labyrinth,  while  we  passed 
under  a  dark  wall  of  rock,  coated  with  moss  and  li- 
chens that  had  likely  flourished  there  for  generations, 
and  from  whose  bare  and  rugged  top  the  hoary  fir 
lifted  its  sombre  head.  Further  on  a  lighthouse  stood 
perched  on  a  rock,  and  further  still  another.  AH  was 
still  and  lonely — the  cerulean  vault  above,  the  tran- 
quil tide  below,  the  sunshine  over  all.  Was  tbe 
poetry  of  the  scene  felt  by  that  fair  young  man  gaz- 
ing so  calmly,  so  thoughtfully,  upon  it  from  the  deck  of 
that  steamer  over  which  the  rich  tints  of  a  Prince  of 
Wales  standard  flaunted  in  the  sun  ?  If  I  were  a 
novelist  I  should  say  "  Yes." 

Then  another  fairy  picture  presented  itself  in  groves, 
growing,  as  it  were,  out  of  the  water,  and  seeming  to 
bar  our  further  progress,  till  suddenly  the  sylvan  cur- 
tain was  withdrawn,  and  the  eye  wandered  over  a 
wide  sweep  of  water  dotted  here  and  there  with  a  few 
small  rocks,  and  bounded  by  the  endless  forest  of  the 
mainland.  Towns  and  villages  were  meanwhile  passed 
on  either  shore,  and  once  a  lonely  fisherman  was  seen 
practicing  his  gentle  art  in  a  small  row-boat. 

The  islands  extended  the  whole  way  from  Brock- 
ville  to  Kingston,  but  the  most  compact  cluster  was 
seen  in  front  of  Alexandria  Bay.  Here  the  view  was 
exquisite.    A  wide  expanse  of  river  reposed  mirror- 


THE   PRINCE    OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


115 


like  beneath  the  rich  autumnal  sky,  and  this  sheet  of 
water  reflected  the  forms  of  an  assemblage  of  islets  of 
the  most  picturesque,  diversified,  and  inviting  aspect ; 
here  a  naked  crag,  there  a  majestic  bouquet,  yonder  a 
clump  of  trees  or  a  perfect  island  supporting  a  solitary 
stem.  Such  happy  confusion,  such  an  indiscriminate 
sprinkling  of  all  shapes  and  sizes  and  varieties  of  vege- 
tation was  unique  in  the  extreme. 

As  we  neared  Kingston,  after  leaving  Brockville, 
the  channel  by  which  we  advanced  and  which  was 
formed  by  Long  Island,  on  the  borders  of  which  were 
several  islets,  and  by  the  mainland,  Pittsburg  and 
Kingston,  gradually  widened.  These  were  well 
wooded,  and  the  larger  one  disclosed  several  neat 
farms. 

Further  on  appeared  the  strong  fortification  crown- 
ing the  promontory  of  Point  Henry,  about  a  hundred 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  lake,  for  here  Ontario  and 
the  St.  Lawrence  meet.  This  commanded  a  narrow 
entrance  between  Cedar  Island  and  Hamilton  Cove  ; 
and  here,  on  a  verdant  slope,  fronting  the  picturesque 
rocks  of  Cedar  Island  and  commanding  a  be'autiful 
view  of  the  opening  of  the  lake,  stood  the  Garrison 
Hospital,  built  of  dark  blue  stone,  with  a  tin  roof  and 
veranda  in  front. 

Advancing  beyond,  a  prospect  still  finer  unfolded 
itself  to  the  delighted  eye.  The  opening  of  the  lake 
was  observable  in  the  distance,  and  the  town  of  Kings- 
ton began  to  show  itself  on  the  right.  Away  we 
went  past  Navy  Bay  and  Point  Frederick,  between 
which,  during  the  American  war,  British  frigates  used 
to  lie  in  waiting.  Ships,  powder  magazines,  forts,  and 
batteries,  -told  the  tale  of  the  past.  A  dangerous 
shoal,  running  off  from  Point  Frederick,  obliged  us  to 
make  a  large  curve  beforo  entering  the  harbor  ;  but 
this  afforded  a  fine  opportunity  for  observing  the 
scenery,  including  the  expanse  of  Ontario,  the  broad 
current  between  Long  Island  and  the  town,  the  fine 


fpii 

1.* 


mm 


ii 


.-M 


116 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


estuary  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  across  which,  over  a  dis- 
tance of  eighteen  hundred  feet  in  length,  a  \vooden 
bridge^extends  ;  the  houses,  and  cliurclies,  and  market- 
place of  the  town  rising  above  each  other  on  a  gentle 
declivity,  and  spreading  two  miles  or  more  along  the 
margin  of  the  lake,  the  wharfs  and  shipping,  and  the 
distant  forest  on  either  side. 

Kingston  was  one  of  the  first  settlements  of  the 
Frencii  missionaries  on  the  great  fresh-water  seas  of 
the  New  World.  It  was  then  called  by  its  Indian 
name,  Catai-aqui,  and  was  strengthened  with  a  large 
fort,  erected  by  order  of  the  Governor  General  of 
Canada. 

And  now  we  were  near  the  wharf  where  His  Royal 
Highness  was  appointed  to  land,  according  to  the 
original  arrangement,  but  whicli  consummation  had 
been  considered  doubtful  since  the  departure  from 
Brockvillc,  for  it  was  there  communicated  by  telegraph 
that  the  Orangemen  were  determined  to  take  part  in 
the  procession,  arrayed  in  all  the  trappings  of  their 
Order,  and  it  had  been  signified  that  His  Royal  High- 
ness would  not  take  part  in  such  a  procession,  for  the 
reason  that  it  was  offensive  to  the  Roman  Catholic 
body,  which  had  protested  against  it. 

Immediately  upon  arrival  the  Governor  General 
sent  to  the  Mayor,  asking  the  question  whether  or  not 
the  Orangemen  intended  to  forego  joining  the  proces- 
sion in  their  robes,  with  the  attendant  banners.  The 
answer  was  in  the  negative.  The  Governor  General 
— acting  likely  under  higher  authority — then  intimated 
that  if  they  did  not  agree  to  dispense  with  their  party 
demonstration  within  an  hour  the  Prince  would  re- 
main on  board  the  steamer.  The  hour  elapsed,  the 
Orangemen  were  firm  in  their  decision  to  hold  out, 
and  the  Prince,  as  a  consequence,  did  not  land.  The 
procession,  which  had  been  formed  at  great  length,  in- 
cluding all  the  public  officers  and  clergy,  and  the  vol- 
unteer cavalry  of  Kingston,  was,  therefore,  left  to  dis- 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES    IN    AMERICA. 


117 


perse  in  tlie  gray  twilight.  People,  under  the  com- 
bined influence  of  excitement  and  disappointment,  now 
stared  at  each  other  in  blank  wonder  at  the  unfortu- 
nate turn  of  events,  and  after  that  began  to  speculate 
concerning  the  ultimate  result. 

The  Prince  slept  on  board  the  steamer  that  night, 
and  the  town  was  illuminated,  although  not  as  gener- 
ally as  if  His  -Royal  Highness  had  been  ashore,  ac- 
cording to  original  expectation.  Thousands  of  visitors 
crowded  the  streets  and  hotels,  unable  to  obtaia  beds. 

On  the  following  morning  the  Mayor  and  others 
went  on  board  the  royal  steamer,  in  the  endeavor  to 
arrange  matters  so  as  to  enable  His  Royal  Highness 
to  go  ashore — the  Orange  party,  meanwhile,  parading 
the  streets  in  full  party  costume,  and  forming  a  long 
procession.  But  the  result  was  that  such,  under  the 
attendant  circumstances,  was  declined.  His  Royal  High- 
ness proposing  to  receive  addresses  on  board  the 
steamer  instead.  Thus  the  first  shadow  had  fallen 
across  the  New  World  path  of  the  future  King  of 
England,  affording  another  evidence  that  there  is  no 
pleasure  without  an  alloy  of  pain,  no  event  in  human 
history  but  is  marred  by  some  element  of  discord, 
whether  individual  or  national.  It  was,  therefore, 
hardly  to  be  expected  that  the  paean  of  welcome  would 
not  be  marred  by  some  factional  croaking,  or  that  the 
cloven  foot  of  party  prejudice  would  not  intrude  among 
the  crowd. 

The  following  letter  will  explain  the  cause  of  the 
unfortunate  difficulty : 

Montreal,  August  30, 1860. 
My  Dear  Sir  Edmund, — I  am  informed  that  it  is  the 
intention  of  the  Orangemen  of  Toronto  to  erect  an 
arch  on  the  line  of  route  which  it  is  desired  by  the 
citizens  that  the  Prince  of  Wales  shall  take  on  Friday 
next,  and  to  decorate  it  with  the  insignia  of  their 
association.    I  am  also  told  tliat  they  mean  to  ap- 


I 


118 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :    OR, 


pear  in  the  procession  similarly  decorated  with  party 
badges. 

It  is  obvious  that  a  display  of  this  nature  on  such  an 
occasion  is  likely  to  lead  to  religious  feud  and  breach 
of  the  peace,  and  it  is  my  duty  to  prevent,  as  far  as  I 
am  able,  the  exposure  of  the  Prince  to  supposed  par- 
ticipation in  a  scene  so  much  to  be  deprecated  and  so 
alien  to  the  spirit  in  which  he  visits  Canada. 

1  trust  you  may  be  able  to  persuade  those  who  are 
concerned  in  these  preparations  to  abandon  their  in- 
tentions ;  but  that  there  may  be  no  mistake,  I  hope 
you  will  inform  them  that,  in  the  event  of  such  an 
arch  being  erected,  I  shall  advise  the  Prince  to  refuse 
to  pass  under  it,  and  enter  the  town  by  another  street ; 
and  further,  if  any  Orange  demonstration,  or  any  other 
demonstration  of  a  party  character  is  persisted  in,  I 
shall  advise  the  Prince  to  abandon  his  visit  to  the 
town  altogether. 

I  have  heard,  but  with  less  certainty,  that  a  similar 
demonstration  is  contemplated  at  Kingston.  I  need 
not  say  that  my  remarks  apply  equally  to  that  or  any 
other  town.    I  am,  etc.  Newcastle. 

To  the  Right  Hon.  Sir  E.  W.  Head. 

The  Kingston  left  the  harbor  at  three  on  the  next 
afternoon,  the  occasion  being  distinguished  by  a  royal 
salute,  fired  from  the  Market  Battery  by  the  volunteer 
artillery  company  of  the  towi.  There  were  not  many 
assembled  at  the  water-side  id  the  time,  and  the  cheers 
were  of  a  less  enthusiastic  character  than  those  given 
on  his  departure  from  any  other  place  visited. 

The  Orangemen  remained  in  procession  in  the  street 
parallel  with  the  water-side  up  to  this  time,  although 
their  numbers  were  fewer  by  one  half  than  on  the  pre- 
vious day,  many  having  been  compelled  to  return  to 
their  homes  in  the  country,  in  consequence  of  the  ap- 
proaching harvest. 

Immediately  after  the  last  shots  from  the  battery 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


119 


had  died  away,  an  indignation  meeting  was  held  by 
the  citizens  generally,  who,  I  may  remark,  entertained 
a  strong  sympathy  for  the  Orange  party.  I  am  sorry 
to  say  that  the  chief  speaker  took  anything  but  an 
unbigotcd  and  impartial  view  of  the  relations  of  one 
section  of  the  community  to  another.  He  dragged 
down  the  religious  faith  of  a  people  from  the  lofty 
standard  of  individual  responsibility  and  moi-al  in- 
fluence to  do  battle  in  political  and  party  contests. 
He  and  others  were  evidently  disposed  to  revive  the 
rancor  and  religious  hate  which  long  ago  cast  a  stain 
upon  tiie  people  of  Canada.  Historical  recollections 
were  revived,  and  the  concourse  was  told  how  the 
Orangemen  were  the  representatives  of  those  who 
fought  side  by  side  with  the  illustrious  William,  and 
bled  with  him  in  the  cause  of  a  common  religion  and 
a  common  liberty.  That  banner  they  carried  to-day 
had  floated  in  triumph  over  the  walls  of  Derry,  and 
led  the  way  when  the  conquerors  of  the  Boyne  waded 
to  the  neck  to  oppose  their  foes.  And  yet  they  were 
thus  ignored.  They  deserved  better.  Was  it  right 
for  the  Roman  Catholics  in  Lower  Canada  to  assemble 
all  their  bishops  from  Sandwich  to  Gaspe  to  meet  His 
Royal  Highness  on  his  first  landing  at  Quebec,  to  in- 
duce him  to  visit  their  colleges  and  nunneries,  and 
when  the  Church  of  England  was  hardly  represented 
to  allow  these  to  gather  and  pass  before  him  in  all  the 
pageantry  of  feudal  days,  and  then,  after  such  a  rec- 
ognition of  the  religion  of  the  people  in  that  section, 
altogether  refuse  similar  privileges  to  the  representa- 
tives of  Protestantism  in  Upper  Canada  ? 

Then  followed  some  rather  strong  language,  in 
which  the  names  of  the  Governor  General  and  the 
members  for  the  town  and  county  were  received  with 
loud  groans. 

A-  still  loftier  personage  interested  in  colonial  aflFairs 
also  came  in  for  a  slight  share  of  the  unpopularity 
caused  by  this  party  feeling. 


i 


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t.;. 


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m 

■A 


120 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


TIius,  it  will  be  seen,  the  worst  consequences  arose 
from  the  stubborn  determination  of  the  body  of  Orange- 
men to  parade  the  insignia  of  their  order  to  tlie  an- 
?ioyance  of  the  Roman  Catholic  portion  of  the  com- 
munity, and  that,  notwithstanding  an  official  intimation 
that  such  a  display  was  contrary  to  the  wishes  of  the 
highest  authorities  of  the  crown,  as  well  as  being  sub- 
versive of  good  order.  A  greater  insult  could  hardly 
have  been  offered  to  the  Prince  and  crown  than  was 
brought  about  by  this  fanatical  adherence  to  party 
creed  and  pji^rty  resolves.  "You  don't  respect  the 
Prince,"  I  heard  one  rtmn  say  to  one  of  the  gentlemen 
in  red  and  j^ellow.  "  Yes,  we  do ;  but  we  respect 
Protestantism  more."  This  is  laying  to  their  souls 
the  flattering  unction  that  they  are  something  more 
than  what  they  are.  Protestantism,  it  is  to  be  hoped, 
is  totally  independent  of  Orangeism. 


■'"■"'V^Wvi-.'  ■ 


--s.,-Ji'> 


CHAPTER  XV. 

The  Landing  at  Toronto— Fifty  Thousand  Spectators— Four  Thou- 
sand Children  in  Chorus— The  Procession— Decorations  on  the 
Route— An  Orange  Arch — The  Royal  Party  Annoyed — The  Mayor 
in  Hot  Water — Illuminations — Addresses — The  Prince  Playing  at 
Rackety— Reception  at  Osgoode  Hall — The  Prince  Enrolled  as 
a  Barrister — The  Ball — Beautiful  Appearance  of  the  Ball-room — 
Another  Orange  Outrage— Departure  for  CoUingwood,  etc.,  etc. 

The  Orange  demonstration  so  unwisely  persisted  in, 
which  prevented  the  landing  of  the  Prince  at  Kings- 
ton, operated  with  an  equally  unfortunate  result  at 
his  next  place  of  call,  Belleville,  for  the  Orangejjien, 
who  had  paraded  themselves  in  that  town  while  the 
royal  steamer  remained  in  harbor,  left  by  railway,  to 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   TN   AMERICA. 


121 


the  number  of  about  two  hundred,  at  four  o'clock  on  the 
morning  following  her  departure,  for  the  same  destina- 
tion. No  sooner  did  they  arrive  at  Belleville,  at  six, 
than  they  formed  in  procession,  arrayed  in  scarf  and 
badge,  and  marshaled  by  a  man  in  harlequin  costume, 
with  their  band  playing  party  tunes  as  the  vanguard. 

By  the  cheers  that  met  them  here  and  there,  as  they 
passed  along,  it  was  evident  tliat  popular  feeling  was 
not  opposed  to  them,  although  popular  ignorance  may 
have  had  a  good  deal  to  do  with  that.  They  took  up 
their  quarters  at  a  hotel  in  the  town,  out  of  one  of  the 
windows  of  which  they  hung  their  flag.  Their  pres- 
ence, of  course,  created  much  excitement  among  the 
populace,  half  of  whom  appeared  to  be  in  favor  of  the 
Orangemen  holding  out,  and  the  other  half  of  them 
giving  in  ;  but  the  wearers  of  the  red  and  yellow  were 
firm  to  their  motto  of  "  No  surrender." 

Soon  after  nine  o'clock  the  Mayor  went  on  board  the 
Kingston,  to  acquaint  the  Duke  of  Newcastle  with  the 
resolution  of  the  Orangemen  to  join  in  the  procession 
if  the  Prince  landed,  as  also  to  allow  their  party  col- 
ored arch,  erected  in  one  of  the  streets,  to  remain 
standing. 

After  his  return  from  this  interview,  the  Mayor 
mounted  a  platform  and  addressed  the  people.  He 
said  that  he  had  seen  the  Duke,  and  heard  that  the 
Prince  greatly  regretted  that  lie  should  not  have  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  their  town,  more  especially  as 
they  had  gone  to  so  much  trouble  u,.-d  expense  in  their 
decorations. 

At  a  quarter  before  ten  the  Kingston  left  the  har- 
bor on  her  way  to  Cobourg.  The  gloom  occasioned 
by  this  event  was  oppressive ;  the  triumphal  arches 
had  been  erected  in  vain,  and  the  loyal  inhabitants 
were  overcome  with  disappointment.  The  Orange- 
men returned  to  Kingston  without  disturbance,  and  I 
proceeded  on  to  Cobourg,  where  I  found  everybody 
on  the  tip-too  of  expectation.     Triumphal  arches, 

6 


iti 


«il 


122 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


transparencies,  and  other  devices  were  abundant ;  vol- 
unteer cavalry  patrolled  the  streets  ;  stands  were  built 
to  accommodate  sight-seers  ;  the  Town  Hall  had  a 
beautiful  platform  and  canopy  in  front,  and  was  intern- 
ally beautifully  decorated  ;  and  all  promised  well, 
for  the  Orangemen  of  the  place  had  agreed  not  to 
parade  the  insignia  of  their  party. 

Darkness  succeeded  daylight,  and  still  no  Prince 
came  ;  but  shortly  before  ten  the  royal  steamer  ar- 
rived, and  was  saluted  by  the  Kingston  Volunteer  Ar- 
tillery. It  was  then  announced  that  His  Royal  High- 
ness would  land  at  ten,  attend  the  citizens'  ball,  and 
sleep  ashore  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Smith,  the  Postmaster 
General.  Accordingly,  soon  after  ten  the  landing 
took  place,  and  open  carriages  being  in  attendance  for 
the  illustrious  visitor  and  others,  he  stepped  into  one 
in  company  with  the  Duke  and  Governor  General, 
when,  to  his  surprise,  the  horses  were  turned  aside  and 
the  carriage  was  drawn  to  the  Town  Hall  by  a  party  of 
gentlemen  of  the  place  in  full  evening  costume.  The 
cheers  along  the  line  of  route  were  vociferous,  and  must 
have  gladdened  the  heart  of  him  for  whom  they  were 
intended.  An  address  was  presented  to  him  by  the 
Mayor  and  Corporation,  to  which  he  briefly  replied. 

He  then  entered  the  ball-room,  which  was  tastefully 
arranged  and  by  no  means  crowded,  there  not  being 
more  than  two  hundred  people  present.  There,  for 
the  first  time  in  America,  he  danced  in  plain  evening 
dress,  and  walked  about  the  room  with  his  partner  on 
his  arm. 

He  danced  every  dance  till  a  quarter  to  four,  and 
then  drove  home. 

On  the  following  morning,  at  a  few  minutes  before 
ten,  he  left  the  house  for  the  railway  station,  escorted 
by  a  detachment  of  cavalry.  He  was  in  plain  morn- 
ing dress,  and  from  the  house  to  the  station  was  envel- 
oped in  a  cloud  of  dust. 

He  traveled  in  a  special  train  towards  Peterboro, 


^ 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


123 


his  departure  being  distinguished  by  the  firing  of  a 
royal  salute.  On  reaching  Rico  Lake,  where  the  rail- 
way is  laid  across  a  bridge  three  miles  long,  the  royal 
party  embarked  in  a  small  steamer  named  the  0  tana- 
bee,  and  sailed  among  a  group  of  fir-covered  islets. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  lake  the  Indians  had  erected 
an  arch,  and  they  had  mustered  there  in  canoes.  Their 
chief  presented  a  written  address  to  His  Royal  High- 
ness, signed  in  Tndian  and  English,  after  which  he  ten- 
dered to  the  Prince  a  present  of  birch  baskets  full  of 
Indian  work,  which  was  accepted.  The  train  was  then 
re-entered  and  moved  on  to  Peterboro,  where  crowds 
had  assembled  at  the  station,  and  the  municipal  author- 
ities of  the  town  and  county  presented  addresses,  which 
were  replied  to  in  the  usual  manner.  v  / 

The  party  did  not  remain  long  here  before  proceed- 
ing to  Port  Hope,  where  arches  were  plentiful  and  the 
inhabitants  appeared  to  be  in  a  state  of  exuberant 
joy.  The  Town  Hall  was  fitted  up  for  his  accommo- 
dation, and  thither  he  drove  and  received  addresses 
from  the  town  and  county,  to  which  he  gave  one  reply. 
He  then  went  up  stairs  to  a  public  luncheon  which  had 
been  provided,  and  at  which  the  usual  toasts  of  the 
Queen,  Prince  Consort,  and  Prince  of  Wales  were  pro- 
posed and  responded  to  with  genuine  and  tremendous 
cheers.  The  enthusiasm  manifested  at  all  points  can- 
not well  be  described,  and  there  was  not  a  cloud  to 
sully  the  brightness  of  this  happy  morning. 

Soon  afterwards  the  party  re-entered  the  cars  and 
proceeded  to  Whitby,  where  a  repetition  of  the  same 
glorious  scene  occurred.  Here  three  addresses  were 
read,  and  as  many  replies  made  by  His  Royal  High- 
ness, who.  immediately  following  their  delivery,  drove 
off  towards  the  wharf  to  embark  on  board  the  Kings- 
ton for  Toronto.  The  people  scampered  after  his  car- 
riage in  thousands,  and  were  seemingly  wild  with  de- 
light. 

From  Whitby  to  Toronto  he  was  escorted  by  a 


■■^,-m 


m 

mi  ti 


,,! 


124 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J   OR, 


dozen  or  more  excursion  steamers,  which  number  in- 
creased as  tlie  royal  steamer  neared  tlic  city.  At  a 
few  minutes  before  seven  the  landing  took  place,  in 
the  presence  of  fifty  thousand  people  collected  on  the 
wharf  and  grand  stand,  and  amid  salutes  from  volun- 
teer artillery  and  elsewhere,  and  the  huzzas  of  the 
mighty  throng,  that  greeted  him  rapturously.  A 
magnificent  canopy  had  been  erected  on  the  spot,  and 
here  an  address  was  delivered  by  the  Mayor.  To  this 
he  read  his  reply  in  his  naturally  clear  and  emphatic 
manner. 

The  procession  was  then  formed,  and  the  grandest 
sight  of  the  kind  that  had  yet  attended  his  progress  in 
the  New  World,  was  exhibited. 

On  entering  the  first  street,  that  portion  of  the  pro- 
cession within  the  inclosure  passed  under  a  magnifi- 
cent triumphal  arch,  after  the  Roman  style. 

Arch  succeeded  arch  after  this  as  the  procession 
passed  along  the  streets,  attended  by  cheers,  without 
a  single  pause. 

On  coming  to  the  Orange  arch,  supposed  to  be  in 
shape  an  exact  imitation  of  the  memorable  gate  of 
Derry,  with  a  transparency  on  the  pediment  represent- 
ing King  William  the  Third  mounted  on  a  white  horse, 
in  the  act  of  crossing  the  Boyne,  the  Prince  and  the 
Duke  of  Newcastle  eyed  it  with  unpleasant  surprise. 
"  Why,  they've  King  William  there,"  was  tlie  remark 
of  one  of  them.  The  Mayor  had  assured  the  Duke 
that  there  was  nothing  of  a  party  character  about  it ; 
and  here  his  statement  was  ocularly  disproved. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  the  Duke  wrote  to 
the  Mayor  on  the  subject,  but  this  did  not  result  in  the 
removal  of  the  obnoxious  picture,  for,  to  the  Duke's 
surprise,  it  was  alleged  to  be  an  equestrian  drawing 
of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  in  the  attitude  in  which  King 
William  is  commonly  represented.  This,  however, 
did  not  satisfy  the  Duke,  who  reproached  the  Mayor 
for  a  want  of  candor. 


THE   PRINCE  OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


125 


After  a  lono^  drive  by  a  circuitous  route,  the  royal 
party  reached  Government  Hous'e,  which  they  entered 
amid  a  final  outburst  of  cheers.  The  tens  of  thousands 
then  wandered  to  and  fro  about  the  streets,  looking  at 
the  illuminations.  These  were  botli  very  numerous 
and  very  fine,  Osgoode  Hall  being  a  beautiful  constel- 
lation, and  many  of  tiie  public  and  private  buildings 
were  gorgeously  illuminated. 

On  Saturday  morning  the  levee  was  held  in  the  re- 
ception room  of  Government  House,  commencing  at 
eleven  o'cloclc,  and  ending  at  two.  Thirteen  addresses 
were  here  presented,  but  to  only  four  of  these  did  His 
Royal  Highness  reply.  After  luncheon  the  Prince, 
accompanied  by  the  Governor  General's  aid-de-camp 
and  one  or  two  others,  drove  in  a  city  cab  to  a  public 
rackvit-court,  where  he  threw  off  his  coat  and  engaged 
in  the  fashionable  game  of  rackets  with  much  zest.  It 
was  soon  rumored  in  the  immediate  neighborhood,  and 
some  young  men  procured  a  ladder  reaching  to  the 
glass  roof  of  the  building,  the  doors  of  which  were 
meanwhile  closed  to  the  general  public.  There,  as  the 
cobwebs  partially  screened  the  players  from  their  view, 
they  broke  the  windows,  and  the  debris  falling  in  had 
the  cfifect  of  shortening  the  stay  of  His  Royal  High- 
ne?  ,  who  returned  to  the  cab  in  waiting,  and  drove 
baciv  to  his  residence,  in  front  of  which,  during  the 
afternoon  and  evening,  a  floating  cloud  of  sight-seers 
congregated  in  the  hope  of  catching  a  glimpse  of  the 
royal  visitor.  At  twenty  minutes  past  nine  he  left 
with  the  Governor  General,  the  Duke  of  Newcastle, 
and  Earl  St.  Gerraains,  in  a  closed  carriage,  to  attend 
the  ball,  or  reception,  as  it  was  called,  at  Osgoode 
Hall,  followed  by  the  other  members  of  the  suite  in 
separate  carriages.  '• 

On  his  arrival  at  the  building,  which  includes  the 
most  chastely  ornamented  and  magnificent  law  courts, 
not  only  in  America,  but  the  whole  world,  St.  George's 
Hall,  Liverpool,  perhaps,  excepted,  he  was  received  by 


^^  ^1 


?M 


n 


I 


m 


I'M 


126 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD;   CR, 


the  Judges  in  their  robes,  and  conducted  through  the 
corridor  of  white  Oaen  stone  to  the  central  atrium, 
where  he  took  his  stand  for  a  few  moments  on  the  low 
dais  prepared  for  him.  The  dancing,  which  had  been 
going  forward  for  about  half  an  hour  previously,  ceased, 
and  there  was  a  general  cheer,  followed  by  "  God  save 
the  Queen,"  from  the  band  of  the  Royal  Canadian 
Rifles.  This  concluded,  the  Treasurer  of  the  Law 
Society  advanced,  bowed,  and  read  an  address  to  His 
Royal  Highness,  which  was  replied  to. 

Dancing  was  now  recommenced,  but,  owing  to  their 
being  only  one  band,  the  Prince's  set  (the  only  one 
formed)  was  soon  environed  by  a  wall  of  crinoline, 
which  hardly  allowed  room  enough  for  the  dancers. 
After  the  second  dance,  however,  the  throng,  number- 
ing about  eight  hundred,  dispersed  into  the  hall,  cor- 
ridors, and  other  rooms.  Soon  after  this  another  band 
commenced  playing  in  the  gallery  above  the  central 
hall,  and  here  the  votaries  of  Terpsichore  betook 
themselves  in  considerable  numbers.  Later  still.  His 
Royal  Highness  proceeded  there,  and  this  had  the  ef- 
fect of  making  it  the  most  crowded  part  of  the  build- 
ing, which  latter  looked  more  like  courts  of  the  Al- 
hambra  in  days  of  yore  than  law  courts.  The  whole 
was  lighted  on  the  principle  adopted  by  the  British 
Houses  of  Parliament,  the  inner  roofing  being  of  stain- 
ed glass,  behind  which  were  gas  jets  that  poured  their 
lustre  in  mellow  tints  upon  the  festive  scene  below, 
illuminating  the  elaborately  carved  stone  pillars  sup- 
porting the  galleries  and  roof,  and  contrasting  with 
the  darker  shades  of  the  tesselated  pavement.  It  was 
gorgeous  and  unique,  and,  save  an  occasional  display 
of  choice  flowers  arranged  in  the  vestibule  and  main 
hall,  there  was  little  or  no  attempt  at  any  other  orna- 
ment. 

The  gravity  of  the  law  was  laid  aside,  mirth  reigned 
supreme,  and  consulting  chambers  and  retiring  rooms, 
instead  of  being  filled  with  papers  and  grave  men,  in 


im 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


127 


jr  orna- 


liorse-hair  wigs  and  bombazine  gowns,  poring  over  old 
parchments,  were  turned  upside  down  with  crinoline, 
shawls,  looking-glasses,  and  the  little  odds  and  ends 
of  female  apparel. 

At  a  few  minutes  past  eleven  His  Royal  Highness 
conducted  Mrs.  Cameron,  the  wife  of  the  Treasurer,  to 
supper,  which  was  served  in  the  Practice  Court  in  the 
west  wing,  and^  was  of  a  very  recherche  character. 
Here  the  toasts  of  the  Queen,  Prince  Consort,  and 
Prince  of  Wales,  were  proposed  and  responded  to 
with  the  highest  enthusiasm.  Dancing  was  afterwards 
resumed,  and  continued  till  five  minutes  past  twelve, 
His  Royal  Highness  having  taken  part  in  every  dance 
during  his  stay. 

On  the  next  morning  (Sunday)  he  drove  to  church, 
without  passing  under  the  Orange  arch.  This  aroused 
the  indignation  of  a  few  of  the  bigoted  followers  of 
King  William,  and  during  divine  service  they  pro- 
ceeded to  their  lodges  and  procured  five  of  the  ortho- 
dox flags  of  their  party,  with  which  they  returned  and 
decorated  the  arch.  This  insulting  conduct  aroused 
in  its  turn  the  wrath  of  a  city  Alderman,  who  forth- 
with obtained  a  ladder,  and  was  in  the  act  of  ascend- 
ing it,  with  a  view  of  pulling  the  flags  down,  when 
some  Orangemen — who  had  taken  their  stand  on  the 
top  of  the  arch,  imagining,  perhaps,  in  their  ardor, 
that  they  were  defending  the  real  instead  of  the  imita- 
tion gate  of  Derry — shook  the  ladder  till  the  Alder- 
man had  fallen  to  the  ground,  after  which  they  suc- 
ceeded in  breaking  the  ladder  itself.  A  master  of  a 
lodge  then  interfered,  but  with  an  equally  fruitless  re- 
sult. The  flags  remained  flying  when  the  Prince  came 
out  of  church,  and  within  view  of  the  royal  party. 
There  was  u,  large  crowd  assembled,  and  a  good  deal 
of  excitement  and  disorder  prevailed.  One  Orange- 
man conducted  himself  in  a  riotous  manner,  and  was 
taken  into  custody,  upon  which  another  of  his  party 
attempted  to  rescue  him.    The  object  of  this  was  to 


-ifi 


•t'f 


n 


128 


ROYALTY  IN   THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


create  a  disturbance  favorable  to  forcing  the  royal 
carriage  to  pass  under  the  arch — a  proceeding  which 
some  of  these  wretched  blackguards  had  openly  talked 
about  while  the  flags  were  being  put  up,  and  as  the 
Prince  emerged  from  the  church.  Had  there  been  the 
slightest  practical  attempt  at  carrying  out  this  design 
there  would  have  been  bloodshed,  and  the  Battle  of 
Toronto  would  hereafter  have  occupied  as  conspicu- 
ous a  place  in  the  pages  of  the  future  historian,  as  the 
recent  conduct  of  the  Orangemen  in  Canada  will,  not- 
withstanding. 

In  the  afternoon  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Earl  St. 
Germains,  and  the  Governor  General,  after  visiting 
the  University,  walked  down  to  inspect  the  objection- 
able arch,  and,  being  recognized  by  some  of  the  Or- 
ange party,  they  were  hooted  and  followed  in  a  rather 
threatening  manner. 

On  the  following  Monday  morning  at  a  few  minutes 
before  nine,  several  thousands  had  assembled  in  and 
around  the  amphitheatre  at  the  railway  station  for  the 
purpose  of  witnese^ing  the  departure  of  His  Royal 
Highness  for  Collingwood,  ninety-four  miles  north- 
ward from  Toronto.  These  greeted  him  with  loud 
cheers  as  he  appeared  in  view  and  stepped  into  fhe 
open  car,  decorated  with  flags,  embossed  crov  ns, 
Prince's  plumes,  imitation  maple  leaves,  and  ottorians, 
which  had  been  provided  for  the  occasion  by  the 
Northern  Railway  Company  of  Canada. 
,  Davenport  was  the  first  station  arrived  at,  and  the 
train  passed  slowly,  in  order  to  give  those  present  an 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  Prince,  and  vice  versa. 

At  Richmond  Hill  there  was  a  few  minutes'  stoppage, 
to  take  in  water.  A  neat  arch  here  spanned  the  track, 
and  a  large  concourse  stood  gathered,  uttering  vocifer- 
ous acclamations,  to  which  the  Buffalo  band  en  board 
the  train  joined  "  God  save  the  Queen." 

At  Aurora  there  was  a  stoppage  for  wood.  Two 
arches  were  erected  across  the  track  at  this  point,  one 


:t  i'l 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


129 


of  which  was  Masonic  and  the  other  Orange.  There, 
was  some  excitement  and  annoyance  displayed  here, 
owing  to  the  presence  of  the  Orange  arch.  However 
the  royal  car  passed  under  it,  and,  arriving  at  New- 
market, stopped  a  few  minutes.  The  crowd  was  here 
very  dense,  amounting  to  nearly  three  thousand  per- 
sons. A  large  stand  or  platform  was  filled  with 
ladies,  gentlemen  and  children  of  an  agricultural 
aspect.  A  salute  was  firedj  and  an  address  presented 
by  the  local  authorities. 

At  Bradford  a  stoppage  of  ten  minutes  occurred. 
The  concourse  was  here  greater  than  at  any  former 
place,  and  the  preparations  more  extensive.  A  hand- 
some dais  occupied  the  centre  of  an  amphitheatre,  and 
to  this  His  Royal  Highness  was  conducted  to  receive 
an  address.  Two  large  arches  were  erected  within 
Tiew,  and  three  companies  of  firemen  and  two  bands 
of  music  were  among  the  other  attractions.  The 
municipal  authorities  and  leading  men  of  the  town 
were  in  full  evening  dress.  An  address  was  presented, 
to  which  the  Prince  read  a  reply.  Cheers  rang  again 
and  again  after  this. 

Women  put  their  butterflies  in  motion,  or  rather 
their  cambrics  into  a  flutter,  and  said  "  Where  is  he  ?" 
"There  he  is!"  and  lifted  their  children  on  to  the 
shoulders  of  men  and  seemed  wild  with  delight,  while 
the  heroes  of  the  plough  and  lords  of  the  stubble 
opened  wide  their  mouths  with  sheer  curiosity. 
Young  ladies  endeavored  to  make  themselves  as  con- 
spicuous as  possible,  and  threw  bouquets  into  the 
royal  car.  The  Prince  smiled,  bowed,  looked  happy, 
and  pleased  all. 

Craigville  was  hurried  by,  and  Earrie,  the  county 
town  of  Simcoe,  was  reached,  where  the  train  stopped 
another  ten  minutes,  and  tlie  Bradford  scene  was  more 
than  re-enacted.  A  handsome  pavilion,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  town,  the  bay,  and  the  lake,  stretching 
away  further  than  the  eye  could  carry,  was  erected 


lao 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;    OR, 


near  the  track  in  the  rear  of  the  station.  To  tliis 
pavilion  His  Royal  Highness  was  conducted,  passing 
under  on  his  way  a  tastefully  built  agricultural  arch, 
surmounted  by  a  Prince  of  Wales'  plume  made  of 
sheaves  of  wheat.  The  firemen  and  Barrie  Volunteer 
Rifles  were  present  in  full  force,  a  band  discoursed 
pleasant  music,  and  seven  or  eight  thousand  people 
cheered.  The  County  Council  and  Magistrates  pre- 
sented addresses  respectively,  which  were  separately 
replied  to. 

Angus  was  passed  slowly,  during  which  a  gun  was 
fired.  Here,  as  well  as  at  the  two  next  stations — 
arches  were  erected,  and  near  one  of  tliem  a  gentle- 
man, with  bare  legs  and  a  peculiar  wag  of  the  head, 
was  indulging  in  the  pastime  of  playing  the  bagpipes, 
to  the  intense  delight  of  some  small  boys. 

Collingwood  was  next  reached,  and  here  the  re- 
ception, although  warm  f^nough  for  the  size  of  the 
place,  was  second  to  that  of  Barrie.  In  the  number 
of  its  arches,  however,  it  surpassed  Barrie,  but  they 
were  of  less  imposing  appearance.  A  pavilion  stood 
near  the  station,  and  in  this  two  addresses  were  pre- 
sented to  His  Royal  Highness,  to  which  he  returned 
separate  replies.  Some  hundreds  of  school  children 
then  sang  two  verses  of  the  national  anthem,  at  the 
conclusion  of  which  the  band  struck  up  the  same,  and 
the  Prince  proceeded  to  the  steamer  Rescue — only  a 
short  distance  removed — and  which  sailed  immediately 
after  the  royal  party  had  gone  aboard,  on  a  trip  on 
Georgian  Bay,  an  inlet  of  Lake  Huron.  Luncheon 
was  at  once  served,  and  after  a  sail  of  an  hour  and  a 
quarter  the  party  returned.  Two  other  excursion 
steamers  escorted  the  Rescue,  and  they  were  crowded 
with  cheering  masses.  The  Prince  engaged  himself  in 
conversation  with  those  around  him  during  the  time 
thus  spent,  and  impressed  all  who  saw  him  with  the 
same  favorable  opinion  as  he  has  earned  among  all 
ranks  elsewhere.    The  scenery  around  Collingwood 


1* 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


131 


is  not  very  inviting  ;  but  "  anything  for  a  change,"  as 
the  play  says. 

His  Royal  Highness  and  suite  returned  to  the  train 
shortly  before  three,  and  arrived  in  Toronto  at  half- 
past  six. 

A  display  of  fire-works  took  place  between  eiglit  and 
nine  in  the  area  of  the  amphitheatre ;  but  a  poorer 
exhibition  hardly  ever  called  together  twenty  thousand 
people.  A  torch-light  procession  of  the  firemen  fol- 
lowed immediately  afterwards. 

Tuesday  was  a  busy  day  for  His  Royal  Highness, 
and  equally  so  for  those  who,  like  myself,  went  over 
the  same  ground  with  him. 

It  was  a  pitiful  sight,  although  under  opposite  cir- 
cumstances it  would  have  been  a  fine  one,  to  watch  the 
thousands  that  crowded  the  s'tj-eets  between  ten  and 
eleven  on  that  dreary  morning — to  see  them  all  mak- 
ing for  the  one  point,  and  that  one  point  the  amphi- 
theatre near  the  water's  side.  There  were  school 
children  marshaled  in  long  lines,  and  dressed  in  a  doz- 
en varieties  of  costume,  the  girls  with  wet  frocks  and 
dirty  stockings — for  before  many  of  them  reached  the 
desired  spot  it  began  to  rain — and  the  boys  with  their 
trowsers  turned  up  at  the  feet.  There  were  citizens 
and  folks  from  the  country  of  all  descriptions,  and 
Sons  of  Temperance  carrying  banners,  and  rifle  com- 
panies in  sombre  garb. 

These  assembled  by  the  hour  of  eleven,  in  a  dense 
mass,  in  and  around  the  amphitheatre  adjoining  the 
royal  pavilion,  and  remained  in  eager  waiting  for  the 
arrival  of  the  Prince.  But  it  was  not  till  nearly  a 
quarter  to  twelve  that  the  open  carriage,  with  the  hood 
over  it,  drawn  by  four  horses,  passed  under  the  tri- 
umphal arch  into  the  i  nclosure,  where  the  twenty  or 
thirty  thousand  were  congregated,  Then  there  was  a 
long  and  glorious  cheer,  which  did  the  heart  good  to 
listen  to,  and  His  Royal  Highness  alighted,  and  taking 
bis  stand  in  the  pavilion,  listened  to  an  address  from 


4\ 


'^>r 


;•'■'>.  I 


I 


1 

I!!!  \ 


If 


132 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


9-  the  officers  and  members  of  the  Royal  Canadian  Yacht 
Club,  all  of  whom  were  in  their  uniform  standing  on 
each  side  of  the  pavilion. 

He  then  walked  to  the  rear  of  the  structure,  where 
a  wide  sweep  of  the  lake  was  commanded,  with  the 
fourteen  first  and  second  class  yachts  that  were  to  run 
together  drawn  up  for  starting  in  the  foreground.  He 
went  as  far  as  the  water's  edge  to  give  the  signal  for 
starting,  but  owing  to  some  mismanagement  a  delay 
occurred,  and  His  Royal  Highness,  preferring  shelter 
to  the  storm,  retired  under  the  railway  station.  At 
this  stage  of  the  proceedings  the  crowd  broke  through 
the  lines  of  the  policemen  and  rushed  in  disorder  around 
the  royal  suite.  Meanwhile,  the  wet  school  children 
were  singing  two  verses  of  the  national  anthem,  and 
the  royal  suite  were  anxious  to  be  off  ;  but  His  Royal 
Highness  was  resolved  to  see  the  start  notwithstanding 
the  uncomfortable  surroundings.  One  man  pushed  his 
way  forward  with  an  old  umbrella,  which  he  held  up, 
possibly  with  the  best  intentions,  and  addressing  the 
Prince,  said,  "  Will  you  take  my  umbrella,  sir  ?"  His 
Royal  Highness  turned  away  with  a  smile,  and  the  fa- 
vor was  declined. 

In  a  few  moments  after  this  the  signal  for  the  start 
was  fired.  That  instant  the  jibs  and  foresails  of  the 
yachts  were  hoisted,  and,  veering  round,  they  all  went 
off  well  together  towards  the  first  buoy,  near  the  east- 
ern entrance.  Out  they  stood,  with  a  full  spread  of 
canvas,  and  the  heavy  breeze  bending  them  freely 
over.  The  thousands  lining  the  esplanade  shouted,  the 
children  sang,  the  disorder  ashore  became  greater,  and 
His  Royal  Highness,  expressing  regret  that  he  was 
unable  to  await  the  result,  entered  his  carriage  and 
drove  away,  followed  by  a  tremendous  outburst  of 
cheering. 

,  It  spoke  well  for  the  enthusiasm  and  loyalty  of  the 
people  that  the  rush  to  the  Park  after  this  was  equal 
to  that  at  the  amphitheatre,  notwithstanding  the  rain. 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


133 


facht 
ig  on 

where 
;h  the 
to  run 
i.    He 
al  for 
delay 
ihelter 
.     At 
irough 
iround 
lildren 
n,  and 
Royal 
anding 
hed  his 
eld  up, 
ing  the 
r  His 
the  t'a- 


of  the 

equal 

le  rain. 


The  St.  George's  and  St.  Andrew's  Societies  and  the 
Highland  Brigade  were  present  in  the  neighborhood 
of  tlie  canvas-covered  stand  erected  near  the  founda- 
tion stone  of  tlie  Queen's  statue  in  the  grounds  front- 
ing the  University. 

Thousands  held  umbrellas  in  the  background. 

At  half-past  twelve  the  Prince  arrived,  and  this  was 
the  signal  for  a  salute  from  the  field  battery.  He  was 
received  on  alighting  from  his  carriage  by  the  Mayor 
and  Dr.  McCaul,  the  President  of  the  Univeristy,  and 
by  them  conducted  over  a  carpeted  pathway  to  the 
stand,  passing  on  their  way  a  couple  of  Russian  guns 
captured  by  the  British  at  Sebastopol,  and  presented 
to  Toronto  by  the  Queen. 

The  cheering  was  immense  during  this  time.  Silence 
having  been  restored,  Dr.  McCaul  read  an  address  to 
His  Royal  Highness,  asking  him  on  behalf  of  the  in- 
habitants of  the  city  to  lay  the  foundation  stone  of  a 
pedestal  for  a  statute  of  the  Queen.  A  silver  trowel 
was  tlien  handed  to  him,  and  he  at  once  proceeded  to 
spread  some  moi  *ar  on  the  stone.  Tlie  builder  com- 
pleted the  trowel-work,  and  the  stone  was  lowered  by 
a  pulley.  Royalty  then  applied  the  square  and  plumb, 
and  giving  the  stone  three  gentle  taps  with  a  mallet, 
pronounced  it  laid,  and  the  Prrk  inaugurated. 

A  review  of  the  active  volunteer  force  followed. 
The  several  corps  were  drawn  up  eastward  of  the 
stand.  The  evolutions  commenced  by  the  troops  pre- 
senting arms,  while  the  bands  played  the  national  an- 
them, His  Royal  Highness,  meanwhile,  having  ad- 
vanced to  the  east  front  of  the  platform.  They  next 
shouldered  arms,  and  forming  fours  right,  marched 
past  him  in  quick  step  to  the  music  of  the  "  British 
Grenadiers." 

His  Royal  Highness  then  drove  to  the  University, 
where  he  was  received  by  the  Chancellor,  President, 
and  others,  and  conducted  to  the  Convocation  Hall. 
A  large  number  of  ladies  and  gentlemen  were  here 


ti4 


I  ..■i»5 


1 


Mil 


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I 


(f '  '' '' 


tm 


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0^----^ 


134 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


assembled,  and  ihe  students  lined  a  passage  througli 
which  the  Prince  passed  to  the  dais  at  the  head  of  the 
hall,  on  which  a  throne  had  been  erected. 

The  Chancellor,  Justice  Burns,  then  read  an  address 
of  welcome,  which  was  graciously  replied  to  by  the 
Prince,  after  which  the  former  proposed  the  enroll- 
ment of  His  Royal  Highness  as  a  student  of  the  Uni- 
versity. The  motion  was  carried  amid  loud  cheer- 
ing, after  which  the  Registrar  presented  the  college 
book  to  the  Prince,  who  at  once  signed  it. 

The  Prince  was  next  conducted  through  the  Museum 
and  class-rooms,  but  not  on  to  the  roof,  as  originally 
intended,  owing  to  the  state  of  the  weather. 

After  this  he  drove  back  to  Government  House.  At 
three,  ti  r:  weather  having  moderated,  he  re-entered  his 
carriage,  and  proceeded  to  the  Botanical  Gardens. 

A  large  amphitheatre  or  rustic  pavilion  had  been 
erected  inside,  with  a  reserved  place  in  its  centre  for 
the  royal  party.  To  this  they  were  conducted,  and 
here  an  address  from  the  Directors  of  the  Horticul- 
tural Society  was  read  to  His  Royal  Highness.  In 
his  reply  he  said,  "  I  shall  be  content  if  the  tree 
which  I  am  about  to  plant  flourish  as  your  youthful 
city  has  already  done.''  The  tree  alluded  to  was  a 
maple,  and  after  it  had  been  lowered  into  its  place,  a 
few  spadefulls  of  earth  were  thrown  about  its  roots  by 
royal  hands.  He  tlien  walked  to  the  tents,  where  r^me 
flowers  and  fruits  had  been  placed  for  exhibition,  ;ind 
after  a  short  stay  returned  to  the  gateway,  in  the 
midst  of  a  disorderly  crowd  that  gathered  round,  and 
stared  at  and  followed  him  to  his  carriage,  making  it 
a  matter  of  considerable  difficulty  for  him  to  work  his 
way  through,  and  still  worse  for  his  suite  behind.  His 
exertion  reddened  his  face  ;  but  he  laughed  heartily, 
with  the  Governor  General,  when  he  reached  the  car- 
riage. 

The  Normal  School,  to  which  he  drove  next,  was 
less  than  half  a  mile  off ;  so  many  of  those  who  had 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


135 


gathered  in  and  near  the  gardens  scampered  after  him 
to  have  another  glimpse  of  the  royal  face.  Here  an 
address  was  presented,  a  song  was  sung,  and  bouquets 
thrown  ;  "Albert  Edward"  was  also  written  in  the 
visitor's  book. 

Knox's  College  was  afterwards  visited,  where  a 
similar  scene  occurred,  after  which  His  Royal  High- 
ness returned  to  the  Government  House.  Meanwhile, 
the  two  or  three  hundred  composing  the  Belleville 
deputation  were  walking  about  the  streets  with  their 
badges  on  their  breasts. 

The  deputation,  which  included  the  Mayor  and  nine 
members  of  the  City  Council,  had  been  received  by 
His  Royal  Highness  at  two  o'clock,  and  in  reply  to 
their  expressions  of  regret,  and  invitation  to  return, 
in  which  case  nothing  should  occur  to  mar  the  har- 
mony of  the  visit,  the  Prince  said  that  it  pleasedh  im 
to  see  them,  and  he  was  convinced  of  the  loyalty  of  the 
peoole,  and  that  the  doings  of  a  certain  party  were 
against  the  wishes  of  the  majority.  He  would  blot 
all  unpleasant  recollections  from  his  memory,  and  on 
returning  home  assure  Her  Majesty  of  the  loyalty  of 
the  citizens  of  Belleville ;  but  prior  engagements 
would  prevent  his  visiting  the  town,  otherwise  he 
should  have  been  happy  to  do  so. 

The  ball  in  the  Crystal  Palace  was  the  next  groat 
event  of  the  day,  and  presented  a  magnificent  specta- 
cle ;  but  there  were  several  drawbacks  attending  it. 
The  room  was  built  in  the  form  of  a  parallelogram, 
and  tastefully  decorated  with  flags.  It  was  provided 
with  full  length  galleries  down  each  side,  and  a  sepa- 
rate division  on  the  ground  floor  for  supper. 

The  Prince  did  not  avrive  till  a  quarter  past  eleven, 
and  as  dancing  did  not  commence  before,  he  opened  it 
with  the  Lady  Mayoress  as  his  partner.  Those  who 
had  come  early  found  the  time  drag  on  very  slowly. 
Moreover,  the  whole  building  was  uncomfortably  cold 
and  draughty,  and  remained  so  during  the  whole  even- 


if  ill 
m 


:i 


136 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


I 


ing.  So  much  was  this  felt  that  blue  noses,  attenuated 
features,  cold  hands,  and  occasional  shivers  were  gen- 
eral. Ladies  pronounced  it  the  most  unbecoming  ball 
they  had  ever  attended,  and  the  complaint  was  uni- 
versal. 

The  Prince  was  dressed  in  his  uniform,  and,  with 
his  usual  penchant  for  dancing,  took  part  in  every 
dance  till  the  programme  was  exhausted,  soon  after 
four.  Then  a  general  scramble  for  hats,  caps,  and 
coats  took  place,  which  resulted  in  nearly  everybody 
carrying  away  somebody  else's  garments  instead  of 
their  own,  despite  their  being  ticketed. 

At  eleven  o'clock  on  the  next  morning  the  royal 
guest  left  by  special  train  for  London,  calling  at  Guelph 
and  other  places  en  route.  He  was  loudly  cheered  on 
his  departure  by  several  thousands  assembled  in  the 
amphitheatre  and  its  vicinity.  Brompton  and  George- 
town were  the  first  stopping  places,  and  at  each  a  large 
portion  of  the  inhabitants  had  collected  to  give  En- 
gland's heir  a  welcome. 

Guelph  came  next,  and  here  a  splendid  reception 
awaited  him.  He  was  escorted  to  a  pavilion  front- 
ing the  Town  Hall  by  the  Mayor  and  other  functiona- 
ries, who  were  in  full  dress.  A  salute  was  fired,  nearly 
a  thousand  children  sang  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  and 
addresses  were  presented  from  the  town  and  county 
respectively.  A  handsome  arch  was  erected  within 
view,  and  other  decorations  abounded  on  all  sides. 

The  royal  party  returned  to  the  cars  in  the  midst 
of  rapturous  cheering. 

At  Petersburg  an  address  was  presented  in  German, 
and  an  impromptu  reply  returned  to  it  by  His  Royal 
Highness,  an  incident  which  delighted  the  Germans. 
At  Stratford  another  address  was  presented,  and  a  sa- 
lute fired  from  logs  pierced  for  cannon,  there  being 
no  metal  guns  in  the  place.  Truly,  necessity  is  the 
mother  of  invention. 

St.  Mary's  was  passed  slowly,  to  the  music  of  a  thou- 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


137 


sand  cheers,  and  at  a  few  minutes  past  four  the  royal 
train  reached  London.  Here  the  reception  was  very 
enthusiastic,  and  the  display  creditable  to  the  town. 
The  royal  party  stepped  into  their  carriage  and  drove 
without  delay  to  a  pavilion,  where  addresses  were 
read  by  the  Mayor  and  Warden  of  the  county  respect- 
ively, to  each  of  which  the  Prince  read  a  reply. 
Cheers  were  then  given  with  much  gusto,  and  the 
Prince  re-entered  his  carriage ;  the  moment  after 
which  a  rude  brute  lifted  His  Royal  Highness'  hat  oflF, 
and  said  "  Let's  have  a  look  at  you."  This  outrage 
was  borne  with  excellent  temper  by  the  Prince,  who 
gracefully  retook  his  hat  from  the  fellow. 

There  was  considerable  disorder  just  now,  the  crowd 
rushing  in  on  all  sides,  in  the  midst  of  which  the  royal 
carriage  moved  away,  and  took  its  place  in  the  proces- 
sion. At  one  point  the  horses  drawing  the  royal  car- 
riage were  stopped,  and  several  halts  occurred  through 
the  people  blocking  up  the  way. 

The  cavalry  for(;e  of  the  town  acted  as  the  guard  of 
honor,  and  their  patience  was  severely  tested.  How- 
ever, he  reached  the  Tecumseh  Hotel  in  safety,  and 
dined  there  at  half-past  seven,  after  which  he  retired 
early. 


i} 


■m 

-'ft 


f 


m 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

The  London  of  America— Its  Features  and  its  Differences— Samia — 
The  Indians  and  their  Eloquence— Presentation  of  Medals— The 
Prince's  Journey  to  Niagara — Fort  Erie — Arrival  at  Niagara — 
Illumination  of  the  Falls,  etc.,  etc. 

I  AM  writing  of  the  city  of  London,  situated  on  the 
banks  of  the  Thames,  in  the  coun  ^  of  Middlesex.  The 
London  of  the  New  World  is  a  Lancashire  village, 


^  »■■■  -jf 


138 


nOYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


compared  with  its  namesake  of  the  Old  World.  It  is 
a  rural-looking  semi-civilized  spot,  with  a  clownish 
population,  for  the  most  part,  that  have  none  of  the 
wit  or  discipline  of  a  London  mob  in  England. 

The  city  lias  only  been  incorporated  fifteen  years, 
yet  it  boasts  of  two  daily  newspapers,  which  speaks 
well  for  the  tastes  of  many  of  the  community.  The 
population  is  about  twelve  thousand,  the  great  major- 
ity of  whom  are  Protestants. 

7'  London,  which  is  also  called  the  Forest  City,  is  the 
centre  of  an  extensive  agricultural  district.  The 
streets  of  the  city  cross  each  other  at  right  angles,  and 
the  shops  and  houses  are  chiefly  of  one  or  two  stories, 
although  there  are  several  fine  buildings  and  many 
averagely  so.  There  is  no  doubt  that  London  will 
eventually  become  a  fine  city,  but  the  absence  of  ship- 
ping will  always  operate  against  it.  As  Cuzco  was 
to  Peru,  so  will  London  be  hereafter  to  Western  Can- 
ada. I  strolled  round  the  city  on  the  night  after  the 
reception,  to  see  the  illuminations.*  I  passed  through 
Pall  Mall  and  Piccadilly,  and  had  a  good  look  at 
Westminster  Bridge,  and  after  that  at  Blackfriars 
Bridge,  both  spanning  the  Thames,  which  is  here  less 
than  two  hundred  feet  wide.  But  I  saw  in  them  no 
Rplendid  thoroughfares,  no  monuments  of  stone-work 
or  triumphs  of  engineering  skill.  Wood,  not  many 
years  hewn  from  the  forest  of  Windsor,  which  environs 
the  city,  was  the  material  of  which  both  the  bridges, 
and  the  Pall  Mall  and  Piccadilly  houses  were  built, 
and  the  contrast  between  the  things  of  the  old  Lon- 
don and  the  new  became  more  and  more  marked. 
Verily,  I  said,  this  is  London  only  in  name.  I  meet 
nothing  familiar  here.  There  is  nothing  to  remind 
me  of  the  great  city  of  the  world  but  so  many  names 
that  appear  before  me  as  if  in  mockery.  But  go  on 
and  flourish,  thou  young  giant,  fresh  from  the  primeval 
forest.  The  surest  way  to  reach  a  mark  is  to  aim  be- 
yond it. 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


139 


With  these  reflections,  I  walked  on,  my  path  lighted 
by  the  reflections  of  gaseliers  shaped  into  Prince  of 
of  Wales'  plumes  and  words  of  welcome.  The  illumin- 
ations were  creditable.  Arches  liglited  with  gas  jets 
here  and  there  crossed  the  streets,  but  at  longer  in- 
tervals than  at  any  other  town  where  the  Prince  re- 
mained to  attend  a  ball.  I  glanced  at  cottage  and 
house  and  store  windows,  and  I  saw  rows  of  burning 
candles,  and  occasionally  my  eye  rested  on  some  bright 
transparency.  Once  in  the  distance  I  saw  a  bonfire 
casting  a  lurid  glare  around,  and  once  a  procession  of 
firemen  and  others  bearing  torches  in  their  hands,  ar- 
rested my  attention.  "  Are  you  the  man  as  shook 
hands  with  the  Prince,"  said  one  rough  fellow  to  an- 
other, jocularly,  within  hearing,  after  the  procession 
had  passed  with  its  accompaniment  of  blaze  and  Ro- 
man candles.  It  was  a  joke  founded  on  fact,  for  I  am 
sorry  to  say  that  one  of  London's  horny-handed  citi- 
zens had  the  audacity  to  seize  the  hand  of  His  Royal 
Highness,  and  shake  it  like  a  pump-handle,  as  he  sat 
in  his  carriage,  during  liis  progress  from  the  pavilion 
to  the  hotel.  The  trip  by  railway  to  Sarnia,  on  Thurs- 
day, was  a  very  pleasant  one.  The  Prince  left  Lon- 
don at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  rode  through 
without  stopping,. the  scenery  being  one  of  primeval 
forest  the  whole  way.  The  tints  of  the  foliage  loolied 
rich  and  mellow  in  the  autumnal  sun,  and  the  primi- 
tive aspect  of  the  scene  was  refreshing.  Among  the 
four  thousand  assembled  at  the  Sarnia  Railway  Sta- 
tion were  two  hundred  Indians  from  the  Maniboulin 
Islands,  who  sat  on  long  benches,  with  the  St.  Clair 
River  at  their  back,  and  the  white  cottages  of  Port 
Distinguishable  on  the  opposite  shore.  The  red  men 
in  question  had  all  the  characteristics  of  their  nature 
apparently  unaltered  by  intercourse  with  their  civil- 
ized brethren.  Their  faces  were  painted  red  and  black, 
and  their  heads  wreathed  with  hawks'  feathers  and 
squirrels'  tails.    They  wore  rings  in  their  noses  and 


1 1 

<        f  M 


'I 


fi 


I' 


lint! 


-  r  1.1 

\ 
\ 


'J. 


V; 


140 


ROYALTY  IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  J   OR, 


|i'i 


I  s 


moccasins  on  their  feet,  and  were  otherwise  appareled 
in  true  Indian  style,  while,  to  complete  the  toute  ensem- 
ble, they  were  armed  with  battle-axes.  The  chief  of 
these,  Kanwagashi,  or  the  Great  Bear,  by  name,  ad- 
vanced towards  His  Royal  Highness,  after  the  munic- 
ipal authorities  had  presented  their  addresses,  and 
himself  uttered  an  oration  to  his  "  Great  Chief"  in 
the  Indian  tongue. 

What  Demosthenes  would  have  said  of  such  an  out- 
-  burst  of  native  eloquence,  I  cannot  say,  bjit  all  who 
heard  it  were  prodigiously  amused.  At  the  close  of 
each  sentence  or  part,  the  red  man  folded  his  arms  and 
paused  while  it  was  being  translated  into  English. 
The  harangue  reminded  the  Prince  that  the  sky  was 
beautiful,  that  it  was  preordained  that  Albert  Edward 
and  himself  should  meet  and  that  his  heart  was  glad  of 
the  event.  He  hoped  the  sky  would  continue  fine  for 
both  those  of  the  white  and  those  of  the  red  skin,  and 
that  His  Royal  Highness  would  remember  the  red 
men  when  he  came  to  the  throne. 

The  Prince  smiled,  said  he  was  grateful  for  the  ad- 
dress, and  hoped  the  sky  would  continue  beautiful. 
He  would  never  forget  his  red  brethren. 

The  yells  of  delight  which  issued  from  the  throats 
of  the  aborigines  as  this  was  translated  to  them,  caused 
intoluntary  mirth  among  the  pale-faces. 

The  chiefs,  in  addition  to  being  ring-nosed,  painted, 
and  moccasined,  had  buffalo  horns  on  their  heads,  and 
snake  skins  around  their  waists,  thickly  set  with  por- 
cupine quills  or  colored  grass.  To  these  His  Royal 
Highness  presented  medals  nearly  as  large  as  the 
mouth  of  a  tumbler,  while  to  the  Indians  of  lower 
^  rank  he  gave  medals  of  smaller  size,  and  these  bore 
the  likeness  of  the  Queen  on  one  side  and  the  royal 
arms  on  the  reverse.  The  Indians  felt  flattered,  and 
returned  the  compliment  by  giving  him  a  present  of 
tomahawks,  wampums,  pipes,  bows  and  arrows,  and 
bark  work. 


wm 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


141 


After  driving  through  the  town  and  lunching  at  tlie 
Grand  Trunk  Railway  Station,  the  prosperity  of  which 
the  Prince  proposed  in  a  toast,  he  embarked  on  the 
steamer  Michigan  and  sailed  up  the  St,  Clair  River  to 
Lake  Huron — wliich  appeared  dotted  with  sails — and 
back  again. 

An  hour  and  a  half  later  I  saw  men  in  ill-fitting 
garments  bobbing  to  His  Royal  Highness  at  the  levee 
in  the  Town  Hall,  London,  and  that  evening  I  saw  him 
dancing  with  the  worst-dressed,  worst-looking,  worst- 
dancing  partners  he  has  had  in  Canada.  Between  two 
and  three  hundred  attended  it,  and  the  Prince  danced 
from  the  Alpha  to  the  Omega  of  the  programme. 

At  ten  o'clock  on  tlie  next  morning  he  left  by  special 
train  on  the  Great  Western  Railway  for  Paris,  on  his 
way  to  Niagara. 

The  car  he  rode  in  was  built  for  this  occasion  and 
furnished  like  a  drawing-room,  with  the  walls  painted 
white,  with  gilt  lines.  Enviable  railway  traveler  I 
We  honored  a  crowd  &.t  Ingersoll  by  waiting  a  few 
moments  while  they  were  letting  off  the  steam  of  their 
loyalty,  and  then  proceeded  to  Woodstock,  thirty  miles 
from  London,  where  all,  save  the  Duke  of  Newcastle, 
who  was  unwell,  undertook  an  exceedingly  dusty  drive 
to  the  residence  of  the  Mayor,  where  a  dais  was  erect- 
ed under  the  veranda,  to  which  the  Prince  was  con- 
ducted. Here  no  less  than  four  addresses  were  read, 
to  which  replies  were  promised  by  mail. 

The  weather  was  beautiful,  and  the  ladies,  dressed 
in  white,  with  blue  sashes,  gathered  round  His  Royal 
Highness,  and  sang  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  in  a  man- 
ner rather  embarrassing  to  the  Prince  than  otherwise. 
A  collation  was  spread  in  the  dining-room,  to  which 
the  party  afterwards  adjourned  for  a  few  moments, 
preparatory  to  their  return  through  the  dusty  streets. 

Woodstock  is  a  quiet  spot  in  the  centre  of  an  agri- 
cultural district,  and  has  a  population  of  about  five 
thousand.     Its  hedgerows  and  fields  are  suggestive 


142 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


of  English  country  scenes,  and  haystacks  and  hotels 
are  almost  equally  common  within  its  precincts. 

WJien  we  arrived  at  Paris  a  rifle  company  had 
formed  as  a  guard  of  honor,  and  a  thousand  of  loyal 
Canadians  were  assembled  to  welcome  their  future 
King.  An  arch,  crowned  with  a  Prince  of  Wales 
plume,  made  of  wheat-sheaves,  stood  in  the  rear,  and 
a  landscape  of  hill  and  dale  filled  up  the  background. 
The  inevitable  address  was  presented,  and  we  stepped 
from  the  Great  Western  to  the  Buffalo  and  Lake  Huron 
Kailway,  where  another  State  car  was  in  waiting  for 
the  Prince. 

A  rapid  ride  brought  us  to  Brantforcl,  where  His 
Royal  Highness  walked  to  his  carriage  inder  a  hand- 
some arch,  and  between  a  double  line  of  school-girls, 
in  white  frocks,  who,  while  singing  the  national  anthem, 
threw  bouquets  at  his  feet,  so  that  his  path  was  literally 
strewed  with  flowers. 

A  group  of  Mohawk  Indian  chiefs  met  him  at  the 
end  of  the  platform,  and  one  of  them  delivered  into 
his  hand  an  address,  upon  which  there  was  a  mutual 
bow,  but  no  exchange  of  words.  The  red  men  of 
Brantford  were  dressed  in  as  full  and  gorgeous  costume 
as  their  brethren  of  Sarnia,  but  the  squaws,  that  stood 
crouchingly  aloof,  looked  wretched. 

Another  address  from  the  pale-faces,  and  another 
dusty  drive  succeeded,  before  we  reached  the  Kirby 
House,  where  a  public  luncheon  was  served,  presided 
over  by  the  Mayor,  who,  as  soon  as  the  royal  party 
had  sat  down,  rose  and  said,  "  Now,  then,  you  must  all 
keep  quiet — I  must  have  it.  I  can't  allow  any  re- 
marks to  be  made  while  we're  here." 

The  Prince  smiled,  the  Governor  General  looked 
angry,  and  everybody  else  felt  either  amused  or  an- 
noyed at  such  an  uncalled  for  lecture.  The  Mayor 
was  a  rough,  farmer-like  man,  and  was  evidently  under 
the  influence  of  strong  waters.  He  rose  again,  after 
a  short  interval,  and  made  another  observation  of  the 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


143 


Bame  kind,  notwithstanding  the  remonstrance  of  Sir 
Edmund  Head,  which  occasioned  much  merriment 
throughout  the  room. 

Danville  was  the  next  place  of  stoppage,  and  here 
an  address  was  presented  in  the  royal  car,  and  a  negro 
attracted  general  attention  by  his  rapid  loading  and 
firing  of  a  cannon.  He  fired  about  twenty  shots  from 
the  one  piece  within  a  quarter  of  an  hour.  Such  fel- 
lows as  him  would  astonish  the  enemy  in  a  sea-fight, 
and  would  have  made  Pizarro  grow  pale,  and  Cortez 
tremble. 

At  half-past  four  we  arrived  at  Fort  Erie,  after 
passing  through  twenty  miles  of  uncleared  land.  Car- 
riages were  in  waiting  to  convey  the  royal  party  to 
the  ruins  of  the  fort,  which,  in  years  gone  by,  had  been 
a  stronghold  of  the  British.  It  stood  at  the  distance 
of  half  a  mile  from  the  station,  with  its  two  towers 
pierced  with  embrasures  and  partly  overgrown  with 
ivy,  distinctly  visible.  The  city  of  Buflfalo  lay  imme- 
diately facing  us  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Niagara 
River,  here  about  two  miles  wide. 

The  historical  recollections  of  His  Royal  Highness 
and  suite  were  revived  as  they  stood  gazing  upon  the 
spectacle  of  decay,  just  as  people  might  in  an  old 
graveyard  upon  the  tombs  of  their  ancestors. 

On  their  return,  the  Prince  embarked  on  board  the 
steamer  for  Chippewa,  and  received  a  salute  of  twenty- 
one  guns  from  the  United  States  battery  fronting  the 
railway  terminus  as  he  passed.  The  scenery  here  was 
delightful,  and  the  weather  equally  so.  The  river  was 
as  tranquil  as  an  Italian  lagoon,  and  the  sun  sinking 
with  lurid  radiance  shed  a  flood  of  brilliant  many-hued 
light  across  the  still  bosom  of  the  river.  It  was  such 
a  scene  as  would  have  fascinated  the  eye  of  Turner, 
who  was  grand  upon  sun  and  sunset  views,  and  very 
prodigal  of  his  paint  into  the  bargain,  as  all  who  have 
been  through  the  Turner  Gallery  cannot  fail  to  have 
remarked. 


ilm 


144 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


It  was  dusk  when  we  entered  the  narrow  inlet  at 
Chippewa,  between  two  huge  bonfires  blazing  on  either 
bank,  and  crowds  in  their  vicinity  looking  spectral  in 
the  glare.  A  torch-light  procession  enlivened  the 
landing  scene,  and  a  temple,  illuminated  with  Bengal 
lights,  at  a  point  nearly  half  way  between  the  railway 
station  and  the  Clifton  House,  in  which  the  usual  ad- 
dresses were  presented,  had  a  very  theatrical  effect. 

That  evening  the  Prince  dined  at  his  residence,  for- 
merly known  as  Mr.  Zimmerman's.  It  stands,  sur- 
rounded with  lawn  and  garden  ground,  within  a  pistol 
shot  of  the  Clifton,  but  is  hidden  from  the  view  by 
trees  and  shrubbery.  Thun  His  Royal  Highness  at 
length  found  a  sequestered  spot  where  he  could  be- 
guile existence  as  calmly  and  pleasantly  as  he  pleased. 

Two  or  three  hours  after  his  arrival  the  Falls  were 
illuminated  with  Bengal  lights,  which  had  a  very 
unique  and  splendid  effect.  This  was  done  by  Mr. 
Blackwell,  of  Montreal,  Director  of  the  Grand  Trunk 
Railway,  to  whom  the  public  are  indebted  for  so  orig- 
inal an  idea.  One  of  the  lights  was  placed  under  the 
Table  Rock,  and  burned  there  with  varying  intensity 
for  nearly  half  an  hour,  meanwhile  revealing  the  foam- 
ing waters  of  the  Horseshoe  cataract  as  they  hurried 
wildly  to  the  gulf,  their  whiteness  shining  in  clear 
contrast  with  the  surrounding  darkness.  The  reflec- 
tion of  other  lights  fell  full  upon  the  American  fall, 
that  had  all  the  lustre  of  snow  in  the  first  rays  of  an 
Arctic  sun,  and  all  the  charm  of  vitality,  for  those 
waters  seemed  to  live  as  tliey  disported  in  their 
strength,  and  spoke  in  their  voice  of  thunder. 

The  play  of  the  changing  light  across  a  scene  of 
such  natural  grandeur  was  sublime  in  the  influence  it 
worked.  The  imagination  of  Dante  never  conjured 
up  anything  so  singular  as  existing  in  the  dreamy  re- 
gions of  which  he  wrote  as  thia  night  scene  at  Niagara. 
The  mist  and  spray  might  have  been  likened,  in  the 
language  of  Spurgeon,  to  smoke  from  hell  or  steam 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


145 


from  boiling  waters,  so  much  did  they  appear  in  char- 
acter with  tlie  lights  which  shone  like  huge  fires. 

If  the  moonbeams  had  been  playing  upon  tlie  face 
of  nature,  then  the  illusion  would,  to  a  great  extent, 
have  been  lost ;  but  that  darkness,  which  was  neces- 
sary to  give  it  full  effect,  was  there  to  enhance  a  spec- 
tacle, the  like  of  which  was  never  seen  before.  A 
display  of  rockets  and  illuminations  ashore  aided  the 
fiery  grandeur  of  the  tableau,  and  gave  unto  men  the 
transitory  look  of  imps. 

It  was  a  grand  sight  thus  to  see  the  proud  waters 
of  the  greatest  cataract  in  the  world  rushing  to  their 
gorge  under  an  aspect  so  entirely  novel,  and  the  spec- 
tators gazed  in  admiration  till  the  fleeting  effulgence 
had  passed  away,  and  night  once  more  in  darkness 
reigned  supreme. 


11. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 


The  Falls  and  the  Prince  of  Wales— Parini  crossing  Niagara— Blondin 
and  his  Exploits — Description  of  his  Performances — Grossing  on 
Stilts— The  Prince  in  the  Spray— Illumination  of  the  Falls— The 
Prince  in  the  United  States,  etc. 


If  I  were  to  write  a  description  of  the  great  cataract 
of  America  in  modern  Greek  it  would  be  somewhat 
new  to  the  people  of  Athens ;  if  I  were  to  do  the  same 
in  Arabic,  it  would  carry  freshness  with  it  to  the  sub- 
jects of  Abd-el-Kader ;  if  in  Hindostanee,  it  would  be 
read  with  curiosity  by  the  Mohammedans  ;  but  if  I  were 
to  do  it  in  English,  French,  Italian,  or  German,  it  would 
appear  but  a  barren  repetition,  for  the  theme  is  well 
worn.  Thousands  have  exhausted  their  stock  of  similes 
and  power  of  language  in  the  endeavor  to  bring  clearly 

7 


146 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OB, 


before  the  mind's  eye  the  one  famous  waterfall  of  the 
world — Niagara.  And,  strange  to  say,  no  two  de- 
scriptions have  an  exact  affinity  to  each  other,  for, 
perliaps,  no  two  men  have  formed  exactly  the  same 
judgment  upon  them  or  viewed  them  with  the  same 
feelings,  and  this  diversity  has  been  heightened  by  the 
various  aspects  under  which  the  Falls  may  be  viewed, 
both  as  regards  point  of  view,  weather,  season,  light 
and  darkness,  and  other  local  influences.  There  are 
the  sublime,  the  sentimental,  the  eloquent,  the  pictorial, 
the  artistic,  the  fanciful,  the  topographical,  the  tech- 
nical, the  statistical,  the  practical  or  matter-of-fact,  the 
poetical,  the  legendary,  the  hum-drum,  and  the  bom- 
bastic styles  of  describing  Niagara,  and  each  style  has 
had  its  votaries.  It  would  be  interesting  to  the  student 
of  Niagara — for  the  task  would  amount  to  a  study — 
to  read  all  the  descriptions  of  the  great  cataract  ever 
written.  How  Niagara  would  alternately  smile  and 
frown,  and  knit  its  brow,  and  finally  burst  into  a  roar, 
of  laughter,  if  it  had  a  personality  and  intelligence  of 
its  own,  and  could  only  read  these  specimens  of  de- 
scriptive skill,  and  how  he  or  she  would  laugh  at  me 
into  the  bargain  for  setting  myself  up  as  a  critic  over 
all,  when,  at  the  same  time,  I  am  no  better  than  my 
neighbors. 

After  this  I  can  hardly  venture  to  say  more  of  Ni- 
agara without  finding  some  good  excuse.  But,  hap- 
pily, I  have  one  in  the  visit  of  the  Prince  of  Wales. 
He  is  standing  on  Table  Rock  on  this  pleasant  morn- 
ing, and  the  warm  September  sun  is  shining  full  upon 
him  as  he  looks  down  at  the  glittering  flood  of  foam, 
with  its  many  hues,  from  the  diamond  to  the  emerald, 
through  shades  of  green  and  yellow,  brown  and  purple, 
red  and  blue,  above  which  wreaths  of  vapor  float  from 
the  bed  of  the  gorge  lightly  tinted  with  the  rainbow. 
The  roar  of  the  cataract  is  sublime,  the  sky  beautifully 
blue,  the  forest  rich  in  foliage,  the  shore  tranquil. 

Five  years  ago  I  stood  on  the  same  spot  in  the  midst 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


147 


)f  tho 
ro  de- 
:,  for, 

same 
!  same 
by  the 
iewed, 
,  ligHt 
sre  are 
3torial, 
,e  tecli- 
ict,  the 
le  bom- 
;ylc  has 
student 
study— 
xct  ever 
lile  and 
0  a  roar 
;ence  of 
s  of  de- 
i-h  at  me 

tic  over 
Ithan  my 


of  a  storm.  The  sky  was  then  dark  and  gloomy,  and 
contrasted  deeply  with  the  fleecy  whiteness  of  tlio 
Rapids.  The  lurid  streaks  of  liglitning,  the  roll  of 
thunder,  the  rushing  of  the  wind,  tlic  roar  of  the  leaping 
waters,  lent  an  awful  grandeur  to  tho  ordinary  mag- 
nificence of  the  scene. 

His  Rtjyal  Highness  gazed  upon  the  graceful  curve 
of  the  eighteen  hundred  feet  span  and  hundred  and 
fifty-eight  feet  depth  of  the  Canadian  fall,  with  an 
evident  appreciation  of  its  beauty.  The  thirty  feet 
broad  middle  fall  and  the  cliff  of  Goat  Island  divided 
tlie  American  cataract,  with  its  fringe  of  foam  and  its 
steady  torrent  and  its  thickly  wooded  shore.  Here 
was  antithesis  of  the  rarest  order.  I  might  say  more, 
and  become  grandiloquent,  metaphorical,  eulogistic  ; 
but  I  prefer  preserving  the  happy  medium,  and  delight 
not  in  exaggeration. 

I  am  not  depicting  an  unsubstantial  pageant,  but  a 
reality  of  the  most  probable  character  ;  therefore  it 
behooves  me  not  to  give  rein  to  fancy  and  write  as  if 
Niagara  were  to  be  seen  pouring  out  of  a  tinted  cloud, 
surrounded  by  thick  darkness,  a  mile  or  two  above  the 
point  of  view,  while  looking  at  which  spectators  were 
shaken  off  their  feet  by  the  see-saw  trembling  of  the 
earth  under  the  falls,  and  deafened  for  life  by  the 
roar  of  the  waters.  I  write  in  the  knowledge  that  a 
storm  or  hurricane  at  sea  is  as  much  more  terrible, 
sublime,  and  awful  to  the  senses  than  Ni'igara,  as  Ni- 
agara, is  in  comparison  with  a  running  brook. 

Shortly  before  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
same  day  I  saw  a  sight  the  like  of  which  I  never  saw 
before.  It  was  Farini  crossing  the  Niagara  River, 
about  half  way  between  the  Falls  and  the  Suspension 
Bridge,  on  a  tight  rope.  He  had  started  from  the 
American  side,  habited  in  a  red  jacket,  and  was  ad- 
vancing quickly,  with  the  balance-pole  in  his  hand. 
The  river  here  was  much  wider  and  the  cliffs  higher 
than  below  the  bridge,  where  Blondin  was  to  perform 


I 


<     V 


;■,  «5 


iii« 


.1; 


mm 


148 


ROYALTY  IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


his  feats,  and  the  work  of  walking  so  far,  under  such 
circumstances,  must  have  required  enormous  courage, 
endurance,  skill,  and  presence  of  mind,  especially  when 
the  rather  high  state  of  the  wind  was  taken  into  con- 
sideration. Yet  the  remuneration  derivable  from  an 
occupation  involving  so  much  peril  seemed  quite  inad- 
equate, for  the  number  of  spectators  was  small  on 
either  shore. 

His  Royal  Highness  passed  on  horseback  at  this 
time,  and  uttered  an  exclamation  of  wonder  as  he 
watched  the  stealthy  progress  of  the  actor  in  a  part 
so  thrilling. 

As  soon  as  the  Prince  and  party  arrived  in  Blon- 
din's  inclosure,  that  genius  of  the  rope  set  out  from  the 
American  side,  and  came  on  slowly  towards  the  oppo- 
site point.  Huge  rocks  pointed  their  naked  heads 
three  hundred  feet  below,  and  boiling  rapids  plunged 
pnward  in  tiieir  wild  vexation.  But  Blondin  was  as 
tomposec  as  if  he  had  been  striding  on  terra  firma,  al- 
though he  advanced  warily,  for  one  false  step  would 
have  hurried  him  to  perdition.  He  rested  two  or  three 
times  in  his  passf.geover,  and  also  turned  several  som- 
ersaults, and,  witii  his  hands  grasping  the  rope,  hang 
down  at  length,  and  then,  gathering  himself  up,  turned 
round  and  round  like  a  squirrel's  cage.  It  was  by  no 
means  a  healthy  sight,  and  the  Prince  and  many  others 
withdrew  their  eyes  from  such  a  terrible  display  of 
hardihood.  "  I  felt  my  heart  in  my  mouth  all  the 
time."  was  a  remark  I  heard  after  the  performance 
was  over. 

Et5  had  twelve  hundred  feet  to  walk  between  the 
two  shores  ;  but  he  accomplished  the  task  easily,  and 
arrived  unexhausted  in  his  shed,  where  the  royal  party 
were  assembled,  in  less  than  half  an  hour  from  the 
time  of  starting.  The  Prince  and  others  shook  him 
by  the  hand  and  congratulated  him  on  his  safe  arrival, 
and  the  spectators  on  the  other  side  of  the  river  cheer- 
ed.   There  were  about  two  thousand  present  in  all. 


'\ . , 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


149 


•  such 

arage, 

when 

0  con- 
om  an 
3  inad- 
all  on 

a,t  this 
as  ho 
a  part 

1  Blon- 
rom  the 
e  oppo- 
l  heads 
plunged 

was  as 
rma,  al- 
)  would 
or  three 
al  som- 
je,  hang 
1,  turned 
,s  by  no 
|y  others 
splay  of 
all  the 
rmance 


Blondin  is  a  man  of  slight  but  wiry  frame,  with 
sandy  hair,  small  gray  eyes,  sunken  cheeks  and  dried- 
up,  sallow-looking  features.  He  is  about  five  feet  six 
in  height,  and  wears  a  mustache  and  imperial,  but  no 
beard  or  whiskers.  He  is  thirty-six  years  old  and  a 
native  of  Calais,  and  has  practiced  tight-rope  walking 
since  he  was  four  years  of  age.  He  resides  with  his 
wife  and  children  in  the  town  of  Clifton,  Niagara.  In 
manner  he  is  quiet,  almost  subdued,  yet  when  spoken 
to  has  all  the  cordiality  of  the  Frenchman.  He  speaks 
very  good  English,  and  expresses  his  intention  of  vis- 
iting England  in  a  short  time.  I  remarked,  as  a  set 
off  to  his  very  slight  frame,  that  the  muscle  of  his  arms, 
though  small,  was  freely  developed,  and  that  his  chest 
was  large  for  his  size. 

He  was  now  about  to  perform  a  feat  far  more  peril- 
ous than  that  just  described.  This  consisted  in  carry- 
ing a  man  on  his  back  across  the  same  rope.  It  may- 
seem  strange  that  any  one  could  be  found  to  put  him- 
self in  this  position,  and  upon  whose  presence  of  mind 
Blondin  could  depend.  However,  one  Harry  Colcord 
— the  same  that  he  carried  across  on  the  two  former 
occasions  of  his  performing  a  similar  feat — placed  him- 
self on  the  back  of  Blondin,  to  whom  he  acts  as  agent, 
and  forthwith  Blondin  started  with  him.  I  may  men- 
tion that,  in  order  the  more  steadily  to  secure  the 
rider,  there  were  stirrups  depending  from  Blondin's 
shoulders,  into  which  the  other  inserted  his  feet.  They 
rested  twice  or  thrice  on  the  way,  and  Colcord  had  to 
stand  on  the  rope  till  Blondin  gave  the  word  for  him 
to  mount  again.  On  one  of  these  occasions  I  saw  tlie 
balance-pole  swaying  violently  up  and  down,  and  Col 
cord  striving,  but  ineflFectually,  to  get  hit,  right  foot 
into  the  stirrup.  People  could  look  at  the  spectacle 
no  longer,  and  sought  relief  in  turning  away  their  eyes. 
That  evening  Colcord  told  me  that  he  was  seized  with 
cramp  in  the  thigh.  "  Yes,''  said  he,  '*  we  were  nearly 
getting  into  a  scrape  to-day.     I  thought  I  couldn't  go 


150  ' 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J   OR 


any  further.  But  it  would  never  do  to  get  frightened, 
because  it  would  throw  him  over  in  a  moment." 

Never  was  one  man  more  dependent  upon  another 
for  his  life  than  eitlier  of  these  acrobatic  pilgrims 
across  the  Niagara  River  during  the  twenty  long  min- 
utes of  suspense  which  elapsed  between  the  r  passage 
from  shore  to  shore.  Several  times  the  hardy  walker 
seemed  to  falter,  almost  stumble,  under  his  load,  and 
anxious  eyes  that  had  followed  as  he  had  gradually 
lessened  to  the  view  were  withdrawn  in  the  fear  of  an 
impending  catastrophe.  Then  they  were  reassured 
again  as  they  saw  him  making  his  way  steadily  to- 
wards the  opposite  point :  but  at  frequent  intervals 
the  irresistible  anxiety  would  be  increased  by  a 
staggering  movement  or  the  act  of  resting.  "  I  was 
more  frightened  than  Blondin,"  said  an  officer  of  the 
rifles  after  the  destination  had  been  reached  in 
safety.  Everybody  present  felt  a  weight  removed  as 
this  was  accomplished,  and  they  once  more  breathed 
freely. 

A  pause  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  hour  ensued  before 
the  dangerous  experiment  of  walking  across  on  stilts 
was  attempted.  This  was  an  entirely  new  feature  iu 
Blondin's  career,  and  was  put  forward  as  the  great 
event  of  the  day.  He  stepped  on  the  rope  and  ad- 
vanced towards  us  with  lofty  stridos.  This,  I  after- 
wards found,  was  owing  to  the  stilts  being  hooked  at 
the  end  in  a  shape  resembling  the  feet  of  a  bird.  The 
stilts  were  short  and  fastened  to  his  legs,  so  that 
ho  had  only  to  be  careful  to  step  fairly  on  the  rope 
and  preserve  his  balance  with  the  pole.  Once  he 
dropped  rather  suddenly  on  to  the  rope,  and  women 
uttered  ejaculations  of  horror,  but  it  was  soon  found 
that  he  had  only  sat  down  to  rest.  How  he  got  up 
again  was  a  puzzle  to  many.  He  came  in  with  rapid 
bird-like  and  measured  step,  and  was  once  more 
cheered  and  congratulated  by  His  Royal  Highness 
and  those  near. 


mg 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


151 


ined. 

(ther 
rims 
min- 
jsage 
ilker 
,  and 
ually 
of  an 
sured 
ly  to- 
jrvals 
by   a 
I  was 
of  the 
ed    in 
^ed  as 
eathed 

before 
1  stilts 
ure  iu 
great 
d  ad- 
after- 
Iked  at 
The 
10  that 
,e  rope 
,ce  he 
omen 
found 
Igot  up 
ji  rapid 
more 
ighness 


I  shook  his  hand  and  found  it  naturally  warm,  while 
his  features  betrayed  no  excitement  or  exliaustion. 

The  royal  party  and  the  spectators  generally  now 
retired,  and  Blondin,  with  liis  balance-pole  and  stilts 
across  his  shoulder,  walked  home  in  his  skin-fitting 
merino  undervest  and  drawers,  with  a  wreath  of  feath- 
ers on  his  head. 

The  Prince,  after  this,  rode  down  to  the  ferry, 
where,  in  company  with  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Barl 
St.  Germains,  the  Governor  General  and  his  suite,  he 
embarked  on  the  small  steamer  Maid  of  the  Mist, 
which  at  once  steamed  towards  the  Falls.  The  royal 
party  each  took  down  one  of  the  hooded  oilskin  coats 
from  the  pegs  in  the  cabin,  and  soon  re-emerged  upon 
deck,  the  Prince  laughing  heartily  at  the  strange  fig- 
ure he  cut,  being  entirely  enveloped  in  the  huge  Mac- 
kintosh, which  the  falling  spray  now  played  upon  most 
musically,  at  the  same  time  drenching  the  deck  like 
heavy  rain. 

The  view  of  the  Falls — looking  upward,  as  the 
steamer  suddenly  swept  round  at  the  Horseshoe  curve, 
heaving  as  she  went  on  the  verge  of  the  descending 
waters — was  beautiful,  magnificent,  sublime.  There 
was  a  solemn  grandeur  in  the  wildness  of  those  foam- 
ing floods  that  thrilled,  and  a  majesty  in  their  immens- 
ity and  far-resounding  voice  that  awed,  inspired,  and 
fascinated  all  who  from  that  deck  beheld  them. 

Receding  from  the  cataract,  the  vessel  steamed 
down  the  still  and  silent  river,  hemmed  in  by  the  steep 
and  giant  cliffs  that  forcibly  remind  one  of  the  scenery 
of  the  Saguenay.  Indeed,  the  remark  was  made  on 
board. 

The  steamer  returned  to  her  starting  point  within 
half  an  hour  from  the  time  of  her  departure,  and  then, 
after  sijrning  their  names  in  the  visitors'  book,  the 
party  remounted  and  rode  up  the  steep  to  the  resi- 
dence of  His  Royal  Highness,  which  was  a  beautifully 
situated  two-story  villa,  standing  in  park-like  grounds. 


ll 

m 

::1 


lrl 


152 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


commanding  a  view  of  the  Falls.  It  was  neatly  furnish- 
ed with  cherry  and  walnut  wood  furniture,  but  the  ac- 
commodation it  afforded  was  so  limited  that  all  the 
suite  had  to  reside  at  the  Clifton  House. 

At  ten  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  Falls  were  again 
illuminated  with  Bengal  lights,  which  gave  to  the 
plunging  waters  the  same  spectral  appearance  as  I 
faintly  pictured  in  my  last.  Visions  of  liquid  amber, 
pea»ls,  molten  metal,  a  storm  in  the  Alps,  and  much 
beside,  might  have  arisen  before  the  mind  of  the  spec- 
tator of  a  scene  so  strange. 

Sunday  dawned  wet  and  windy,  and  continued  so 
throughout.  The  Prince  attended  the  village  church, 
and  remained  at  home  the  rest  of  the  day. 

On  Monday  morning  the  weather  broke  dry  and 
clear,  and  the  sun  shone  brightly  on  Albert  Edward 
of  England,  as  he  was  rowed  in  a  small  oared  boat 
from  the  Canadian  to  the  American  side,  landing  at 
the  foot  of  the  two  hundred  and  ninety  wooden 
steps,  leading  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet  up  the 
cliff  from  the  water-side  to  the  summit.  These  he 
ascended  and  was  soon  standing  on  Prospect  Place, 
within  full  view  of  the  rainbow  and  the  flood.  Near 
him  he  surveyed  the  nine  hundred  feet  span  and  hund- 
red and  sixty-four  feet  depth  of  the  American  fall ; 
and  while  looking  over  the  vast  body  of  water  rushing 
down  in  rapids:  at  his  left,  and  rolling  wildly  over  the 
brink  of  the  precipice  at  his  right,  into  the  yawning 
gulf  beneath,  his  vision  embraced  the  even  more  pic- 
turesque curve  of  the  broad  torrent  separated  by  Goat 
Island. 

Here  now,  for  the  first  time  in  his  life,  he  stood  itt 
United  States  territory,  which  had  once  been  British. 
The  fact  recurred  to  him,  but  he  felt  none  the  less 
happy. 

The  contrast  between  tlic  troubled  rush  of  the  wa- 
ters, before  reaching  the  precipice,  and  their  tran- 
quil flow  after  plunging  over,  was  striking.     Walking 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


153 


'/ 


on  eastward,  along  the  river-side,  where  the  rapids 
rushed  tumultuously  over  a  succession  of  rocky 
shelves,  he  reached  the  point  where  the  river  is  divid- 
ed in  the  middle  by  the  intervention  of  the  island,  and 
where  the  long  wooden  bridge  extends  around  the 
agitated  waste  from  that  to  the  mainland.  He  ad- 
vanced half  way  over  this,  and  then  paused  to  take  in 
the  magnificent  view  of  tlie  Rapids  that  presented  it- 
self. On  sped  the  raging  torrent,  its  wild  wavelets 
leaping  over  the  shelving  bed  and  sending  their  foam- 
ing crests  into  the  air,  showing  themselves  in  their 
whirling  fury  against  the  background  of  the  sky, 
or  upheaving  themselves  into  sporting  billows,  ever 
changing  and  gleaming  in  the  brilliant  sunlight  as 
they  hurried  madly  to  the  gulf. 

"^Vhy  should  I  launch  into  a  peroration — why  fur- 
ther attempt  the  description  of  Niagara  after  my  pref- 
atory remarks  ?  It  is  enough  that  it  is  an  enduring 
realitv  which  all  who  come  can  see,  and  there  is  no 
natural  wonder  of  the  world  better  worthy  of  a  visit, 
at  least  once  in  a  lifetime,  than  Niagara. 


';  i 


img 


CHA.PTER  XVIII. 


Departure  from  Niagara  Falls— Brock's  Monument  and  its  Corner- 
stone— A  Magnificent  View — St.  Catharine's  and  the  Prince's  Re 
oeption  there— Grimsby — Hamilton — Enthusiasm  of  the  Populace 
— Description  of  the  City,  etc. 


wa- 

tran- 

Iking 


On  Tuesday  morning  at  ten  o'clock  the  Prince  and 
party  left  Niagara  Palls,  under  a  salute  from  the  Vol- 
unteer Artillery,  and  traveled  by  special  train  to 
Queenston  Heights,  distant  seven  miles.    There  they 


154 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  :    OR, 


scaled  the  "  Mountain,"  an  elevation  three  hundred 
and  forty-six  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river,  and  ap- 
proached the  lofty  monument  under  which  lie  the  ashes 
of  the  brave  General  Sir  Isaac  Brock  and  his  aid-de- 
camp. 

The  arrival  was  signaled  by  the  firing  of  a  royal 
salute  and  hoisting  the  Prince  of  Wales  standard  on 
the  flag-staff  at  the  foot  of  the  monument.  A  com- 
pany of  the  Canadian  Rifles  acted  as  a  guard  of  honor, 
and  nearly  a  thousand  people  were  assembled  in  the 
vicinity  of  the  platform,  built  at  one  side  of  the 
column. 

This  monument  has  only  been  erected  three  years, 
and  then  by  subscription,  the  original  one  having  been 
blown  up  with  gunpowder,  placed  there  by  some  mali- 
cious hand. 

The  object  of  this  visit  was  to  inaugurate  the  monu- 
ment and  receive  an  address  from  the  Veterans  of 
1812,  one  hundred  and  fifty  of  wliom  were  now  pres- 
ent, including  b'l  Allen  McNab  and  Sir  John  Robin- 
son, the  oldest  of  the  survivors.  The  address  was 
read  by  the  latter  gentleman,  to  which  the  Prince  re- 
turned a  very  feeling  reply. 

From  this  lofty  point  a  magnificent  view  was  afford- 
ed of  the  gorge  of  the  Niagara,  and  beyond  of  forest 
and  field,  mountains  and  hills,  backed,  far  as  the  eye 
could  carry,  by  a  wide  sweep  of  the  blue  Ontario, 
while  beneath  and  at  the  back  of  the  village  of  Queens- 
ton,  which  has  a  population  of  five  hundred,  stood 
under  the  solemn  cliffs  a  solitary  tree.  There  fell 
Brock  in  the  arms  of  victory.  I  might  descant  for 
hours  upon  a  scene  so  picturesque  and  full  of  interest, 
but  time  presses,  and  my  book  has  limits. 

To  this  tree — a  venerable  thorn — His  Royal  High- 
ness repaired  after  replying  to  the  address.  Near  it 
an  obelisk  had  been  built,  and  the  top  stone  only  re- 
quired to  be  lowered  into  place.  Tliis  stone  was  in- 
scribed with  letters  which  told  the  melancholy  history 


I 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


155 


of  the  man.     He  died  on  the  13tli  of  October,  1812, 
while  advancing  to  repel  the  invading  enemy. 

A  silver  trowel  was  handed  to  the  Prince,  with 
which  he  spread  tlie  mortar  under  the  stone,  and  then 
the  stone  was  lowered  like  a  coffin  to  its  grave,  and 
this  ended  the  ceremony. 

His  Royal  Highness  and  suite  immediately  after  this 
proceeded  in  row-boats  to  the  steamer  Zimmerman, 
and,  embarking,  sailed  down  the  river  to  the  village 
of  Niagara,  which,  in  1792,  when  the  Duke  of  Kent 
landed  there,  was  not  only  the  metropolis  of,  but  the 
only  town  in,  Upper  Canada.  Several  neat  and  hand- 
some arches  here  lent  a  festive  aspect  to  the  scene  at 
the  water-side.  The  Corporation  and  Magistrates 
presented  addresses,  to  which  brief  replies  were  read 
in  the  pavilion  built  for  the  occasion. 

After  this  the  steamer  ploughed  her  way  into  the 
wide  but  tranquil  lake,  passing  the  American  fort  at 
the  mouth  of  the  river  on  her  way.  It  was  soon  dis- 
covered that  some  of  the  servants  had  been  left  be- 
hind, and  for  these  the  boat  returned.  Then  she  sped 
forward  again,  and  before  her  arrival  at  Port  Dal- 
housie,  the  terminus  of  the  Welland  Canal,  lunch  was 
served  on  board.  The  three-mile  carriage  drive  from 
,  the  latter  place  to  St.  Catharine's  was  very  pleasant, 
owing  to  the  absence  of  dust,  the  rural  quiet  of  the 
road  and  the  beautiful  sunny  weather. 

The  Prince  was  then  conducted  under  a  handsome 
pavilion,  when  a  Corporation  address  was  read  by  the 
Mayor  and  replied  to  in  the  usual  manner.  St.  Catha- 
rine's presented  a  very  pretty  appearance,  both  archi- 
tecturally and  in  its  display  of  volunteer  troops  and 
numerous  decorations.  One  of  the  arches  was  unique 
and  better-looking  than  might  be  supposed  when  I  say 
it  was  built  entirely  of  flour  barrels. 

St.  Catharine's  is  pleasantly  situated  on  an  open 
plateau  above  the  valley,  through  which  winds  the 
Welland  Canal. 


156 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


It  is  distant  twelve  miles  from  Niagara  Falls,  and 
has  a  population  of  about  seven  thousand 

It  is  becoming  a  trite  remark  to  say  that  His  Royal 
Highness  had  an  enthusiastic  reception  from  the  in- 
habitants, that  the  cheering  and  waving  of  handker- 
chiefs were  energetic,  and  that  bouquets  were  here  and 
there  thrown  across  his  path  ;  but  it  will  apply  to  this 
visit  as  much  as  to  any  other  made  by  the  Prince  in 
North  America. 

From  St.  Catharine's  to  Hamilton  the  journey  was 
perform  ^  by  ^le  Great  Western  Railway,  the  line  of 
which  hf  ^  3  for  the  most  part  through  beautiful 
park-like  ncea 'i  y,  reminding  one  of  the  landscapes  of 
Devonshire  ^nd  '^  her  parts  of  England.  The  train 
stopped  at  Grimsby,  on  the  way,  where  a  platform  and 
dais  were  erected  at  the  station,  which  was  gayly  fes- 
tooned with  evergreens,  and  crowded  with  an  eager 
multitude.  The  invariable  address  was  here  present- 
ed, after  which  the  train  moved  on,  followed  oy  the 
rejoicing  shoujis  of  a  thousand. 

Hamilton,  or  "  The  Ambitious  City,"  as  its  inhabit- 
ants delight  to  call  it,  was  soon  reached  after  this, 
and  here,  for  the  size  of  the  place,  the  proceediiigr 
were  exceedingly  lively.  The  Hamilton  Field  Bat- 
tery fired  a  salute,  the  dogs  barked,  and  there  are  un- 
fortunately plenty  of  such  in  the  Ambitious  City ;  the 
people  hurrahed  from  the  hills  and  the  level  ground, 
boys  scampered  and  jostled  old  women  while  in  the 
act  of  shaking  their  pocket-handkerchiefs  in  the  air 
for  tlie  gratification  of  eyes  that  did  not  see  ;  the  Ro- 
man Catholic  Bishop  and  his  clergy  walked  away  in 
high  dudgeon  because  no  particular  position  was  as- 
signed to  them  in  the  procession ;  the  half-broken 
horses  of  the  volunteer  cavalry  cut  sad  capers  under 
their  riders ;  the  members  of  the  Abolition  Society, 
composed  entirely  of  negroes,  stood  in  waiting  like  so 
many  animated  blocks  of  India-rubber  ;  those  of  the 
Temperance  Society  looked  thirsting  for  beer  j  the 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


157 


officers  of  the  Sedentary  Militia  had  all  the  appear- 
ance of  theatrical  soldiers  ;  the  Canadian  Order  of 
Odd  Fellows  were  certainly  true  to  tlieir  order,  and 
the  Mayor  would  persist  in  exposing  his  bare  head  to 
the  sun.  The  platform  at  the  station  overflowed  with 
a  crowd  of  both  sexes,  intent  upon  squeezing  each 
other. 

In  the  centre  of  the  platform  was  erected  a  dais, 
surmounted  by  a  canopy,  to  which  His  Royal  High- 
ness steppedr^on  alighting  from  the  car.  Here  the 
Mayor,  with  his  head  in  the  sun,  read  an  address  to 
the  Prince,  who,  with  more  wisdom,  kept  his  in  the 
shade,  and  endeavoi^ed,  by  saying  "  Come  out  of  the 
sun,"  to  induce  that  worthy  to  study  his  health  more. 

To  this  a  reply  having  more  than  o^  "linary  signifi- 
cance 'was  returned,  it  being  the  last  »f  •  e  kind  he 
would  make  in  the  provinces.  It  ran  ^ 'lus,  aad  was  ut- 
tered with  marked  emphasis  and  feeUng  : 

"  Gentlemen, — This  is  the  last  of  the  -^ery  numerous 
addresses  which  have  flowed  in  upo^  me  from  the  mu- 
nicipal authorities,  as  well  as  other  odies  throughout 
the  Queen's  dominions  in  North  America,  which  I 
have  now  traversed  from  east  to  west,  and  I  can  say 
with  truth  that  it  is  not  the  least  fervent  in  its  declara- 
tions of  attachment  to  the  Queen,  nor  the  least  earn- 
est in  its  aspirations  for  the  success  and  happiness  of 
my  future  life,  and  in  its  prayers  that  my  career  may 
be  one  of  usefulness  to  others  and  of  honor  to  myself. 
You  cannot  doubt  the  readiness  with  which  I  under- 
took the  duty  which  was  intrusted  to  me  by  the  Queen, 
of  visiting  in  her  name,  and  on  her  behalf,  these  pos- 
sessions of  her  crown.  That  task  is  now  nearly  com- 
pleted, and  it  only  remains  for  me  to  report  to  your 
sovereign  universal  enthusiasm,  unanimous  loyalty,  all- 
pervading  patriotism,  general  contentment,  and,  I  trust, 
no  less  general  prosperity  and  liappiness.  I  can  never 
forget  the  scenes  I  have  witnessed.  The  short  time 
during  which  I  have  enjoyed  the  privilege  of  associ- 


m 


'  '71V.. 


'i 


;..fJ 


§ 


158 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


ating  myself  with  the  Canadian  people,  must  ever  form 
a  high  epoch  in  my  life.  I  shall  bear  away  with  me 
a  grateful  remembrance  of  kindness  and  affection, 
which,  as  yet,  I  have  been  unable  to  do  anything  to 
merit,  and  it  shall  be  the  constant  effort  of  my  future 
years  to  prove  myself  not  unworthy  of  the  love  and 
confidence  of  a  generous  people." 

Hamilton  was  well  favored  by  the  elements.  Its 
triumphal  arches  and  other  evergreen  decorations,  its 
ten  thousand  flags  fluttering  in  the  sunlight  over  the 
housetops,  its  illumination  devices,  its  men  and  women 
in  holiday  attire,  its  natural  scenery — all  were  seen  to 
the  best  advantage  in  the  bright  and  rosy  lijrlitof  day. 

The  city,  which  was  so  incorporated  in  1847,  is  built 
on  a  gentle  slope,  backed,  like  Montreal,  by  a  hill 
called  the  "  Mountain,"  on  the  southwestern  shore  of 
Burlington  Bay,  an  inlet  oT  Lake  Ontario.  Its  streets 
cross  each  other  at  right  angels,  and  it  can  boast  of 
many  substantial  stone  and  brick  buildings,  and,  what 
is  better,  few  wooden  ones,  the  houses  being  chiefly 
of  the  former  materials.  It  has  a  population  of  about 
twenty-eight  thousand,  and  publishes  two  daily  news- 
papers. 

The  procession  moved  forward  in  the  midst  of  a 
dense  multitude  ;  the  progress  was  thus  impeded,  and 
there  was  much  of  that  disorder  always  inseparable 
from  a  country  mob.  Tiie  line  of  route  extended  for 
about  a  mile  and  a  half  through  the  principal  streets 
to  the  residence  prepared  for  His  Royal  Highness  on 
the  "Mountain.''  This  is  a  pleasant  mansion,  stand- 
ing in  its  own  grounds,  and  from  its  elevation  com- 
manding a  full  view  of  the  city  and  bay.  A  similar 
house  stands  near,  which  was  made  ready  for  the  suite, 
while  others  of  the  royal  and  official  party  were  pro- 
vided for  at  the  Royal  Hotel.  Both  of  these  residences 
had  been  given  up  by  private  citizens,  now  abandoned 
for  the  use  of  the  Prince  and  suite. 

After  passing  under  numerous  tastefully  decorated 


nio:ht 


mg. 


THE   PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


159 


iom- 
lilar 
bite, 

pro- 
Inces 

)ned 

lated 


arches,  and  beinp;  sung  to,  at  one  point,  by  a  large 
platibrni  full  of  school  children,  to  wiioni  he  smiled 
and  bowed  vvitli  his  customary  cordiality,  tired  tliough 
he  was,  Albert  Edward,  at  six  o'clock,  arrived  at  his 
destination. 

In  the  evening  a  general  illumination  and  a  fire- 
men's torch-light  procession  contributed  to  keep  up 
the  excitement,  but  the  latter  was  singularly  poor. 
At  ten  o'clock  His  Royal  Highness  arrived  at  the  Me- 
chanics' Institute,  where  a  grand  concert  was  being 
given  by  the  Hamilton  Philharmonic  Society. 

As  the  royal  party  entered  the  box  prepared  for 
them,  preceded  by  a  flourish  of  trumpets,  the  audience, 
by  no  means  a  large  one,  rose,  and.  the  performers, 
numbering  more  than  a  hundred,  commenced  singing 
the  national  anthem,  all  present  taking  part  in  the 
chorus.  The  Prince  only  remained  a  short  time,  and 
then  drove  home. 

In  the  morning,  before  holding  the  levee  at  the 
Royal  Hotel,  he  visited  the  Central  School,  where  a 
lot  of  anxious  children  that  had  lain  awake  half  the 
night  thinking  about  him,  were  assembled  at  their 
desks.  After  the  levee  he  visited  the  exhibition  build- 
ing. The  latter  is  sitaated  on  an  elevation  at  the 
western  end  of  the  city,  where  the  view  is  as  fine  and 
extended  as  from  the  so-called  Mountain.  It  is  an 
industrial  and  agricultural  exhibition,  with  the  addi- 
tion of  a  cattle  show. 

On  His  Royal  Highness'  return  from  the  contem- 
plation of  pigs  and  ploughs,  oxen,  sheep,  and  horses, 
he  lunched  with  the  chief  men  of  the  city  at  the  hotel, 
and  soon  after  three  drove  to  inaugurate  the  Water 
Works. 

The  Prince  had  a  four-horse  carriage,  but  his  suite 
rode  in  vehicles  that  would  have  done  credit  to  Don- 
nybrook  Fair,  and  these  were  so  crowded  as  to  neces- 
sitate one  man  sitting  on  another's  knee.  Away  they 
went,  helter-skelter  J  through  the  cheering  crowd. 


■!; 


160 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


The  Prince  was  received  by  tlie  Slieriff  of  the  coun- 
ty, who  conducted  him  to  tlie  enpinc-house  j^rounds, 
where  the  watermen — or  rather,  Water  Commission- 
ers— the  Mayor,  and  other  local  dignitaries,  were  as- 
sembled. Tiiese,  at  the  hand  and  mouth  of  tlie  Chair- 
man of  the  Board,  presented  an  addiess,  to  wliich  a 
brief  reply  was  given.  His  Royal  Highness  then 
started  the  engines,  and  a  salute  was  fired  in  honor  of 
the  event.  The  ceremony  being  now  ended,  the  party 
returned  to  ^own. 

The  citizens'  ball  given  in  the  evening  was,  in  one 
or  two  respects,  the  worst  offered  to  the  Prince  of 
Wales  in  the  British  Provinces.  Owing  to  the  hur- 
ried manner  in  which  the  room  was  built,  none  of  the 
arrangements  were  complete.  There  was  not  even 
time  enough  left  to  allow  of  the  floor  being  waslied. 
It  was,  therefore,  spotted  with  tobacco  juice,  like  a  bar- 
room, when  the  company  began  to  assemble.  More- 
over, there  was  a  most  oflfensive  odor,  which  was  at 
first  said  to  be  gas,  but  afterwards  admitted  to  come 
from  a  sewer,  rising  in  pestiferous  puifs  through  the 
boarding,  and  when  the  Prince  and  party  arrived,  at 
eleven  o'clock,  this  stench  had  become  almost  unbeara- 
ble, and  ev^ybody  complained  of  it,  while  some  went 
home  in  consequence. 

The  room  was  large  and  square,  and  draped  with 
red  and  white  baize,  so  that  its  appearance  was  light 
and  airy ;  but,  owing  to  there  being  at  no  time  more 
than  six  hundred  people  present,  the  general  efi'ect  of 
the  ball  was  meagre. 

Hif  Royal  Highness  remained  till  a  quarter  to  three, 
when  he  left,  in  the  midst  of  a  general  clieer. 

The  illuminations  in  front  of  the  public  offices, 
banks,  and  stores,  were,  meanwhile,  almost  as  general 
as  on  the  previous  evening. 

The  hotels  were  uncomfortably  crowded,  and  many 
sat  up  all  night  in  the.  hall  and  reading-room  seats, 
unable  to  obtain  beds.     Soon  after  noon  on  the  follow- 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


161 


ing  day  His  Royal  Highno:?a  drove  to  tlie  exhibition 
and  formally  opened  it.  There  was  an  immense  crowd 
in  the  p^rounds  adjoining,  and  these  hooted  the  Gov- 
ernor General  in  a  manner  which  must  have  produced 
anything  but  a  delightful  effect  upon  that  venerable 
head  of  the  Canadian  Government. 

The  public  were  debarred  admittance  to  the  interior 
of  the  building  during  the  royal  presence,  and,  as  a 
consequence,  they  pushed  each  other  about  outside  in 
a  manner  which  betrayed  anything  but  refinement. 
Immediately  after  the  inspection  of  the  horses  and  car- 
riages, cattle  and  pigs,  sheep  and  farming  implements, 
the  party  drove  to  the  railway  station,  and  left  by 
special  train  at  two  o'clock,  under  a  salute  from  the 
volunteer  battery,  and  cheers  from  the  crowd  assem- 
bled.    Farewell,  "  ambitious  cityl" 


I; 


CHAPTER  XIX. 


three, 


The  Grandenr  of  the  Prince's  Reception  at  Detroit— Immense  Turn-out 
of  the  Populace— The  Coup  d'Etat  of  the  Prince  to  reach  the  Rus- 
Bell  House— His  Royal  Highness  takes  a  Drive  through  Detroit — 
His  Departure  for  Chicago — Demonstrations  of  Welcome — Immense 
Turn-out  of  the  Chicagoans — The  Prince  makes  his  Appearance  on 
the  Balcony  of  the  Richmond  House — Enthusiastic  Cheers  of  Wel- 
come by  the  Populace — The  Royal  Party  proceed  on  a  Prairio 
Shooting  Excursion. 


The  night  scene  at  Detroit  on  the  occasion  of  the 
ent  -y  of  the  son  of  Queen  Victoria  into  the  United 
Stat^^s  was  one  long  to  be  remembered  by  all  who  wit- 
nessed it.  The  glittering  line  of  steamers  on  the  river 
and  the  illuminated  shores  had  a  beautiful  effect,  anu 
so  also  had  the  six  hundred  torches  of  the  firemen,  that 


I  ^'f  m 


162 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


threw  a  lurid  glare  upon  tlie  heads  of  the  immense  and 
densely  packed  multitude  from  the  water-side  to  Jeffer- 
son Avenue. 

Unfortunately,  however,  the  crowd  was  too  great 
to  be  comfortable,  and  it  was  with  some  difficulty  that 
even  the  lines  of  the  boat  were  fastened  to  the  snubbing 
posts.  It  became  a  still  more  difficult  matter  to  attempt 
the  formation  of  tlie  procession  which  had  been  planned. 
The  military  and  firemen  were  wedged  here  and  there 
in  the  general  mass,  and  endeavors  to  get  tiiem  into 
order  were  utterly  useless.  The  carriages  were  jammed 
in  immovably,  and  could  not  be  approached  from  the 
steamer.  Half  an  hour  was  thus  passed,  during  wliich 
the  cheers  that  had  greeted  the  illustrious  party  had 
given  place  to  a  Babel  of  sounds,  a  noisy  enthusiasm, 
expressive  of  the  bubbling  ardor  and  curiosity  which 
swayed  the  congregated  thousands.  It  was  amusing 
to  watch  the  unflinching  perseverance  with  which  deli- 
cate women,  in  spite  of  crushed  bonnets  and  flattened 
crinoline,  struggled  in  the  midst  of  all  for  a  place  near 
where  the  Prince  was  likel-y  to  pass.  Such  heroic 
fortitude  deserved  a  better  reward  than  it  met  with. 
It  was  fortunate  that  only  one  of  the  crowd  was  pushed 
into  the  river,  and  that  he  was  rescued  immediately 
afterwards. 

The  police  by  this  time  had  succeeded  in  clearing 
a  passage  to  the  nearest  carriage,  which  was  a  close 
one ;  and  no  sooner  was  this  done  than  His  Royal 
Highness,  accompanied  by  two  of  his  suite,  quietly 
entered  it  without  being  recognized  by  the  people,  who 
had  expected  to  see  him  land  surrounded  by  a  phalanx 
of  attendants.  As  soon  as  the  carriage  had  forced  its 
way  through  the  crowd  it  was  announced  that  the  bird 
had  flown,  and  immediately  there  was  a  grand  rush 
towards  the  Russell  House,  where  it  was  known  that 
apartments  had  been  secured  for  "Baron  Renfrew" 
and  his  suite.  But  the  carriage  arrived  there  before 
the  pursuers,  who  were  left  outside  to  vainly  speculate 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


163 


on  the  possibility  or  probability — which  they  did — of 
that  regal  gentleman  making  his  appearance  on  the 
balcony.  • 

Meanwhile,  the  procession,  which  those  concerned 
had  succeeded  in  stringing  together,  was  advancing 
by  Jefferson  Avenue  and  Shelby  Street  towards  the 
hotel,  and  with  it  came  the  carriages  containing  the 
remaining  members  of  the  royal  party. 

Although  there  was  an  entire  absence  of  triumphal 
arches  and  evergreen  decorations,  and,  by  necessity,  a 
lack  of  that  pagea;itry  wiiich  had  attended  his  progress 
through  the  British  provinces,  the  eagerness  to  have  a 
glance  at  royalty  was  even  greater  than  that  manifested 
on  the  other  side  of  the  border ;  and  since  the  days 
when  Detroit  acknowledged  the  rule  of  the  great 
grandfather  of  the  present  Prince  of  Wales,  it  has 
been  said  by  competent  authorities  that  such  a  general 
turn-out  of  its  population  was  never  before  witnessed. 
And  it  was  not  mere  curiosity  that  brought  about  tliis 
res  'It,  but  a  sincere  desire  to  sliow  their  admiration 
of  Victoria  and  Victoria's  son  and  the  British  nation, 
with  whose  people  those  of  the  United  States  Telt  allied 
by  the  ties  of  consanguinity,  language,  and  commerce. 

The  people  were  bound  to  see  His  Royal  Highness 
if  such  were  possible,  and  altliough  their  efforts  to  do 
80  detracted  from  tlie  effect  of  the  reception,  the  re- 
sults were  hardly  to  be  regretted.  There  was  a  great 
people's  demonstration  in  honor  of  the  Prince's  arriv- 
al, and  it  was  by  the  feeling  of  tlie  people  participa- 
ting in  that  demonstration  that  we  must  judge. 

After  breakfast  on  the  next  morning,  the  party  took 
their  places  in  open  carriages,  and,  under  the  guid- 
ance of  the  Mayor,  drove  tl> rough  the  principal  ave- 
nues for  about  half  an  hour,  and  then  turned  down  to 
the  Michigan  Central  Railroad  Station,  where  they 
arrived  at  a  few  minutes  past  ten.  The  crowd  had, 
by  this  time,  deserted  the  hotel,  and  formed  there  to 
the  number  of  five  thousand  and  n)ore.     The  cheering 


'i  'i  i 


164 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  I   OR, 


m 


was  as  energetic  as  Americans  are  ever  wont  to  in- 
dulge in,  and  the  excitement  ran  high. 

At  every  station,  as  the  train  progressed,  there  was 
a  crowd  proportionate  in  its  size  tc  the  population  of 
the  place,  and  a  rush  to  the  car  steps  by  those  hopeful 
of  a  glimpse  of  the  royal  countenance  through  the 
windows.  But  disappointment  followed,  for  the  win- 
dows were  curtained. 

Tiie  party  paid  for  traveling  the  usual  English  spe- 
cial train  rates,  namely,  live  cents  per  mile  for  each 
person. 

On  nearing  Chicago  we  saw  several  houses  and  one 
of  the  large  lakeside  hotels  beautifully  illuminated. 
The  railway  had  run  parallel  with  tlie  southern  sliore 
of  the  Michigan  for  more  than  sixty  miles,  although  its 
waters  were  frequently  shut  out  from  our  view. 

We  reached  Chicago  at  eigiit  o'clock  and  found 
about  fifteen  thousand  people  assembled  within  the 
railway  terminus,  but  kept  back  from  tiie  platform  by 
a  stretched  rope.  These  gave  a  hearty  cheer  as  the 
heir  apparent  walked  hastily,  in  company  with  Lord 
Lyons,  to  the  carriage  in  waiting  for  him,  in  which  he 
was  conveyed  to  tlie  Richmond  House,  where  the  nec- 
essary apartments  had  been  prepared  for  his  reception. 

As  soon  as  he  passed,  the  crowd  broke  beyond  the 
rope,  and  rushed  down  the  platform  like  a  torrent  and 
followe*i  the  carriage  to  the  hotel,  which  closely  ad- 
joined the  station.  Tlio  scene  at  Detroit  was  there- 
upon re-enacted.  The  royal  party  dined,  slept,  and  on 
the  next  morning  Baron  Renfrew,  happening  to  make 
his  appearance  on  the  balcony,  was  loudly  cheered. 
At  ten  o'clock  he  entered  his  carriage  in  tlie  midst  of  a 
shoVer  of  bouquets  from  the  lady  boarders  of  the 
house,  and  together  with  the  Mayor,  the  Duke  of  New- 
castle, Lord  Lyons,  and  others,  drove  to  the  Court 
House.  Hero  the  celebrated  Mayor  Wentworth,  bet- 
ter knowii  as  "Long  John,"  conducted  the  party  into 
his  office,  and,  producing  his  ledger,  asked  the  favor 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


165 


of  their  autograplis  for  his  future  delectation.  This  re- 
quest havinj^  been  courteously  complied  with,  the  giant 
of  Chicago  led  tlie  way  up  the  spiral  staircase  to  the 
summit,  where  a  fine  view  of  the  city  and  the  lake  was 
afforded.  Owing  to  the  perfect  flatness  of  Chicago, 
it  must  be  seen  from  a  lofty  elevation.  The  top  of 
the  Court  House  is,  therefore,  the  great  resort  of 
strangers. 

Tiiere  is  no  doubt  that  the  son  of  Queen  Victoria  was 
made  fully  familiar  with  the  short  history  of  the  City 
of  the  Wigwam ;  how,  when  it  was  incorporated  in 
1836,  it  had  a  population  of  little  more  than  five  thou- 
sand, while  now  it  could  boast  of  more  than  a  hundred 
and  five  tiiousand,  and  some  of  the  widest  streets  and 
finest  stores  and  warehouses  in  the  Union,  and  a  com- 
merce that  outrivaled — well,  I  had  better  leave  that 
to  conjecture  ;  and  what  results  still  greater  it  miglit 
have  achieved,  but  for  the  last  three  years'  depression, 
that  had  thrown  a  mantle  of  sackcloth  over  the  whole 
of  the  West,  cities  and  villi^ges  alike. 

From  tlie  Court  House  the  royal  party,  headed  by 
the  sagacious  Mayor,  visited  the  different  points  of  tlie 
city.  They  returned  to  the  hotel  to  luncheon,  and 
afterwards  drove  down  Michigan  Avenue,  which  was 
lined  with  spectators,  on  their  way  to  Bridgeport, 
where  they  inspected  the  hydraulic  works,  preparato- 
ry to  leaving  town  by  special  train,  for  Dwight  sta- 
tion, distant  eighty  miles,  in  order  to  enjoy  a  couple 
of  days'  shooting  on  the  prairies. 

No  sooner  had  the  party  arrived  at  Dwight  than 
they  proceeded,  with  the  necessary  dogs  and  guns,  into 
the  field  ;  but  the  gathering  twilight  was  unpropitious 
to  their  sport,  and  they  bagged  no  game ;  neverthe- 
less the  canine  pack  displayed  points  that  augured 
well  for  tlieii  future  usefulness,  and  the  Prince  said 
"  they'll  do."  He  and  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Gen- 
eral  Bruce  and  Dr.  Ackland,  were  comfortably  domi- 
ciled in  the  house  of  a  Mr.  Spencer,  while  the  other 


H 

41 


' ,  'f 


• 


•i\ 


«i '  ^1 


166 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :  OR, 


li 


members  of  the  suite  were  quartered  in  v-  "*  cAl^'^r  t;^-o 
housc.v  which,  with  a  few  wooden  additiouc,  coTY?po?o 
the  village. 

On  the  next  morning  His  Royal  Higlicess  droTC  wi*h 
his  suite  to  the  old-school  Presbyterian  church,  where 
divine  service  was  performed. 

On  returning  to  the  house  it  was  found  that  a  special 
engine  had  just  arrived  from  Chicago,  bringing  a  spe- 
cial messenger  with  dispatches  from  the  Queen  ard 
Colonial  Office.  The  result  of  this  was  that  all  re- 
mained at  home  during  the  entire  afternoon,  reading 
and  replying  to  their  correspondence. 

The  wind  blew  almost  a  gale  ihe  whole  day,  and  it 
was  impossible  to  avoid  drauglits  and  gusts  of  air, 
even  indoors.  The  prairie  presented  a  beautiful  sight 
at  this  time,  for  the  sun  shone  with  that  radiance  pecul- 
iar to  dry,  windy  weather,  and  lighted  up  the  resi 
less  waves  of  green  with  incomparable  effect. 

Notwithstanding  that  the  breeze  thus  whistled  its 
stormy  song,  and  a  few  drops  of  rain  that  came  ia 
with  the  night  pattered  ominously  against  the  window 
panes,  His  Royal  Highness  resolved,  if  tiis  weather 
moderated,  to  rise  at  half-past  five  o'clock,  breakfast, 
and  start  off  to  shoot  prairie  fowl,  reserving  q'mil  for 
the  morrow. 

By  this  tiire  the  wind  had  subsided,  and  the  dogs 
and  guns  were  brought  in*^^*  requisition.  The  Prince 
started  in  shooting  costiime  in  company  with  his 
equerries,  Mr.  Spencer,  a.:d  two  others.  The  gray  light 
of  (lawn  and  the  vapors  of  the  morning  were  soon  dis- 
pelled by  the  rising  sun.  Far  away  in  the  East  streaks 
of  crimson  and  gold,  mellowed  by  all  the  tints  of  the 
rainbow,  presaged  the  advent  of  the  glorious  orb  that 
gradually  appeared  before  the  vision  like  a  ball  of  fire. 
Now  tlie  streaks  melted  away  slowly  before  the  burst- 
ing effulgence.  The  sky  was  a  mighty  vault  of  dim 
uncheckered  blue,  so  unrelieved  by  cloud  that  the  eye 
almost  ached  in  surveying  its  vastness.    ,A  cool  fresh 


sK: 


THE   TTT/TB   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


16Y 


breeze  gave  a  graceful  sweep  to  tlie  long  grass,  and 
made  the  few  trees  that  bordered  die  opeu  laud  olng 
their  rustlin?"  carol. 

In  upward  flight  the  bright  wings  of  the  morning 
fast  spread  awide.  Rich,  vivid,  and  inspiring  hues 
decked  the  eastern  horizon,  and  the  bladed  desert  was 
bathed  in  a  flood  of  silver  radiance. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  descend  to  the  minutiae  of  the 
day's  sport,  for  His  Royal  Highness  came  here  to  be, 
to  a  certain  extent,  free  from  observation.  I  will, 
therefore,  coirtent  myself  by  saying  tliat  the  party 
were  delighted  with  the  prairie  and  the  country  gen- 
erally. During  the  day  the  entire  suite  were  out  with 
"  his  lordship,"  who  could  roint  a  gun  and  bring  down 
his  bird  as  well  as  any  one  of  them.  Notwithstand- 
ing that  the  birds  were  very  wild,  trlerable  success 
attended  tlieir  shots. 

Tlie  sportsmen  returned  home  when  the  day  was  far 
spent. 

I  would  advise  all  who  have  the  taste,  money,  and 
leisure,  to  visit  this  great  and  unique  landscape  feature 
of  Illinois.  Here,  although  nature  presents  to  the  eye 
but  little  antithesis,  she  has  given  in  the  great  unvary- 
ing flower-sprinkled  plain  a  prospect  which,  for  sub- 
limity and  grandeur,  i?  equal  to  many  of  those  sights 
in  which  she  appears  most  fantastic. 

On  the  morning  of  Tuesday,  the  2'>th  September, 
at  half-past  seven  His  Royal  Highness  and  the  entire 
suite  left  Dwight  by  a  special  train,  for  Stuart's  Gr  jve, 
where  there  is  good  quail-shooting  to  be  had,  owing 
to  the  prairie-clearing  in  that  vicinity. 

His  life,  since  leaving  Chicago,  hao  been  one  of  un- 
mitigated pleasure,  and  already  his  r.  Rurally  healthy 
look  was  enhanced  by  a  robustness  and  flow  of  animal 
spirits  before  unknown  to  him.  He  never  before  en- 
joyed anytliing  so  much  as  this  shooting  on  the  prai- 
ries. He  entered  into  the  sport  with  all  the  zest  of 
his  ardent  nature,  and  few  can  compare  with  hi^n  in 


ml 

Mil 


168 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


I--*-* 


his  genuine  relish  for  outdoor  anausement  and  adven- 
ture. 

The  cottage  which  was  his  temporary  residence  has 
become  an  object  of  considerable  interest,  both  in  the 
village  and  abroad,  and  will  likely  be  a  sort  of  Mecca 
to  a  certain  class  of  pilgrims.  It  is  a  pleasant  two- 
storied,  white-painted,  eight-windowed  habitation,  with 
a  veranda  in  front,  where  each  night  the  game  brouglit 
home  by  the  party  was  deposited.  The  Prince  took 
great  pride  in  the  birds  shot  by  himself,  and  took  a 
candle  with  him  to  have  a  look  at  them  after  dinner. 

He  slept  in  the  largest  bedroom,  situated  in  the 
second  story,  with  a  dressing-room  adjoining.  The 
apartment  of  General  Bruce  was  at  the  opposite  side 
of  the  house,  and  between  the  two  was  the  chamber 
occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Newcastle. 

The  cottage  is  named  the  Prairie  Home  by  its  owner, 
Mr.  J.  C.  Spencer. 

On  Saturday  night  the  Prince  went  to  a  cottage  on 
the  same  farm  to  look  at  the  quarters  occupied  by  his 
equerries.  He  was  accompanied  by  Mr.  Spencer,  who 
pointed  the  way  up  a  ladder-like  flight  of  steps  to  a 
smp.U  room — the  only  one — which  was  shared  by  the 
gentlemen  in  question.  The  Prince  had  his  coat  cov- 
ered with  whitewash  by  ihe  time  lie  reached  the  top, 
where,  meeting  with  those  he  was  in  search  of,  he  had 
a  hearty  langh  at  the  adventure.  When  he  came  down 
stairs  Ue  saw  the  horny-handed  host,  who,  little  suspect- 
ing who  he  waF5.  said,  addressing  Mr.  Spencer, "  Where's 
the  Prince?"  "  Well,  if  you  must  know,"  was  the  re- 
ply, "  this  is  the  Prince  standing  beside  you." 

The  man  thought  there  was  an  attempt  to  "  sell"  him, 
and  with  a  look  of  the  most  sublime  skepticism  ejacu- 
lated, *  Well,  if  that's  the  Prince,  all  that  I  can  say  is, 
that  if  Id  Abe  Lincoln  was  here,  I'd  say  you'd  go  to 
the  VVh'te  House."  Albert  Edward  went  off  in  a 
roar. 

liord  Lyons  was  accommodated  in  another  cottage, 


THE  PRINCE  OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


169 


d  adven- 

lencc  has 
th  in  the 
of  Mecca 
sant  two- 
Lion,  with 
3  brought 
ince  took 
d  took  a 
'  dinner, 
id  in  the 
ng.    The 
osite  side 
chamber 

its  owner, 

3ottage  on 
ied  by  his 
mcer,  who 
jteps  to  a 
red  by  the 
coat  cov- 
d  the  top, 
of,  he  had 
ame  down 
,le  snspect- 
W  here's 
vas  the  re- 


>; 


sell"  him, 
cism  ejacu- 

can  say  is, 
rou'd  go  to 
it  off  in  a 

er  cottage, 


and  Lord  Hinchinbrook  and  the  Hon.  Mr.  Eliot,  pri- 
vate friends  of  His  Royal  Highness,  recruited  ex- 
hausted nature  in  a  railway  sleeping-car.  Pleasant 
recollections  of  a  day  spent  in  driving  over  and  shoot- 
ing on  the  grand  prairie  and  visiting  in  the  village 
crowd  upon  me,  and  I  write  as  one  in  love  with  his 
subject. 

I  set  out  early,  and  drove  across  the  grassy  plain  by 
a  mere  path,  and  started  flights  of  prairie  birds,  and 
saw  the  horizon  sparsely  dotted  witli  farm-houses,  sur- 
rounded by  fields  of  Indian  corn.  Mile  after  mile  I 
continued  my  journey,  and  still  the  scene  remained  the 
same — farm  after  farm,  undulation  after  undulation. 
Once  I  met  a  herdsman  in  charge  of  some  cattle  ;  but 
he  was  the  only  specimen  of  humanity  I  saw  in  my 
long  drive  through  these  vast  solitudes. 

Six  miles  below  the  village  I  came  to  several  groves 
that  looked  like  islands  rising  from  the  sea  of  green. 
These  denoted  the  presence  of  water.  One  of  them 
fringed  Gooseberry  Lake,  in  the  vicinity  of  which  the 
Prince  passed  the  whole  of  Monday.  Into  its  shade 
he  retired  for  luncheon  and  partook  of  some  potatoes 
baked  for  him  on  the  spot,  and  then  lighted  his  segar 
at  the  fire,  which  soon  afterwards  accidentally  ignited 
a  tree. 

The  Grand  Prairie  is  a  hundred  and  seventy  miles 
long  by  twenty -five  to  fifty  broad,  and  is  more  or  less 
settled  over  its  entire  extent.  Hardly  any  one  could 
fail  to  venture  a  supposition  that  this  vast  tract  of 
country  was  once  the  bed  of  a  lake,  or  that  it  w^ill 
eventually  be  as  densely  populated  as  the  adjacent  re- 
gions. In  the  meantime  the  extreme  fertility  of  the 
soil,  which  is  a  dark  stoneless  loam,  is  a  source  of  sure 
wealth  to  the  farmer. 

The  Prince  returned  at  half  past  seven  from  Stuart's 
Grove,  after  a  day's  successful  quail-shooting.  The 
Prince's  own  party  consisted,  as  on  the  previous  day, 
of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  Mr.  Spencer,  and  Captain 

8 


>-i 


.--  s?- 


170 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW  WORLD  J   OR, 


Retallack.  The  latter  gentleman,  who  is  aid-de-camp 
to  the  Governor  General  of  Canada,  organized  the 
whole  affair,  he  having  previously  visited  this  neigh- 
borhood for  sporting  purposes.  The  other  members 
of  the  suite  shot  on  their  own  account.  The  result  of 
the  day's  sport  was  as  follows :  The  Prince,  thirty 
head  of  quail ;  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  twenty  head 
of  quail ;  Mr.  J.  Clinton  Spencer,  ten  head  of  quail ; 
Captain  Retallack,  twenty  head  of  quail. 

On  the  previous  day  the  Prince  shot  fifteen  brace  of 
prairie  fowl ;  the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  twelve  brace  ; 
C;iptain  Retallack,  five  brace  ;  and  Mr.  Spencer,  two 
brace.  The  excess  on  the  side  of  His  Royal  Highness 
may  be  accounted  for  by  the  fact  of  his  having  always 
the  first  shot. 

Dwight  is  a  village  of  fifty  houses  and  six  hundred 
people,  and  has  had  an  existence  of  only  four  years. 
It  will  doubtless  receive  an  impetus  from  the  royal 
visit,  and  we  shall  likely  hear  of  a  Renfrew  Hotel  at 
some  future  time. 


m : 


CHAPTER  XX. 


m 


l^f  ! 


Trip  from  Dwight  to  St.  Louis— Origin  of  St  Louis— Its  Early  His- 
tory and  Progress — Presents  from  His  Royal  Highneaa — The  Jour- 
ney to  Cincinnati. 

It  was  a  little  before  one  o'clock  in  the  morning 
when  I  traversed  the  silent  prairie  village  of  Dwight, 
in  the  direction  of  the  railway  station.  The  oscilla- 
tion of  the  train  which  carried  me  thenceforward  to 
St.  Louis  exceeded  anything  of  the  kind  I  had  before 
met  with.  It  was  a  perpetual  jumping  reel,  which 
made  the  bones  ache.    Moreover,  the  pace  was  so 


Un 
In 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  ly  AMERICA. 


171 


slow — about  twenty  miles  an  howr— that  it  was  past 
noon  when  we  reached  the  terminus  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  there,  owing  to  the  absence  of  a 
ferry  steamer  to  carry  us  across,  nearly  an  hour's  de- 
lay took  place  before  we  reached  the  city. 

I  was  unceremoniously  shaken  out  of  my  sleep  at 
daybreak,  alike  with  the  other  occupants  of  the  sleep- 
ing-car, by  an  ebony-faced  individual,  wishing  to  know 
if  I  wanted  breakfast.  He  received  anything  but  a 
calm  reply  from  some  of  those  disturbed  by  him.  How- 
ever, I  was  amused  as  he  was  walking  away  by  hearing 
some  one  call  out  to  him, "  Bring  me  a  cup  of  coffee  on 
a  waiter." 

"  On  who?"  was  the  darkey's  responsive  query,  and 
he  chuckled  as  he  spoke.  I  imaciine  his  thoughts  re- 
curred to  a  waiter  in  human  form,  for  he  seemed  to 
enjoy  the  idea  amazingly. 

The  view  of  St.  Louis  from  the  opposite,  or  Illinois 
side  of  the  river,  is  very  fine.  In  its  river-side  ware- 
houses it  may  be  likened  to  Liverpool,  while  the  vicin- 
ity of  the  State  House  reminds  one,  when  seen  afar  off, 
of  Lisbon.  But  uo  sooner  does  the  traveler  land  than 
the  resemblance  is  no  longer  recognized,  and  the  scene 
hardly  suggests  comparison. 

The  site  of  St.  Louis  was  selected  by  Laclerc,  who 
named  it  in  honor  of  Louis  XV.,  of  France,  on  the 
15th  of  February,  1764.  It  was  afterwards  used  as  a 
trading  station  for  the  western  trappers.  At  this 
period  the  population  varied  between  fifteen  hundred 
and  two  thousand,  half  of  whom  were  usually  absent, 
leading  the  serai-wild  life  of  voyaf^eurs  and  trappers. 
The  population  experienced  no  rapid  increase,  for  as 
late  as  1820  it  numbered  less  than  five  thousand. 

Meanwhile,  and  in  the  year  1768,  Spanish  troops 
had  taken  possession  of  it  in  the  name  of  Her  Catholic 
Majesty,  r.nd  these  retained  it  till  its  transfer  to  the 
United  States  in  1804.  Then  its  real  progress  began. 
In  1813.  wood  first  gave  place  to  brick  in  the  construe- 


\^3-}i 


1  ^t'  ■! 


.mm 


>:  m 


;,.  I 


172 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


m, 


im 


tion  of  liouses.  In  1817  the  first  steam-boat  ploughed 
its  waters.  Immigration  from  Illinois  succeeded,  and 
its  population  in  1840  exceeded  sixteen  thousand.  Ten 
years  later  the  census  declared  it  to  be  nearly  seventy- 
eight  thousand,  and  now  it  is  a  hundred  and  sixty 
thousand.  These  figures  tell  their  own  tale  of  ad- 
vancement, and  as  they  are  unfamiliar  to  many  even 
of  the  American  public,  I  have  thought  their  introduc- 
tion not  entirely  without  use.  It  has  become  too  much 
a  habit  with  us  to  neglect  home,  and  look  abroad  for 
information.  But  now  that  the  Prince  of  Wales  has 
invested  the  places  of  his  sojourn  with  a  more  than 
common  interest,  it  is  well  to  revive  old  recollections, 
and  impart  whatever  there  is  new  concerning  them. 
The  present  royal  tour  has  been  the  text  for  the  pro- 
mulgation of  much  general  knowledge  relating  to  the 
British  provinces,  and  the  centre  from  which  has  radi- 
ated a  light  by  which  those  regions  and  our  neighbors, 
their  inhabitants,  ought  to  be  seen  in  a  clearer  alid 
truer  manner  than  ever  they  were  before. 

St.  Louis  is  situated  on  the  right  or  western  shore 
of  the  Mississippi,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri, 
and  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  The  city  is  built 
on  two  limestone  elevations,  twenty  and  sixty  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  river.  The  upper  terrace  wid- 
ens into  a  plain,  from  which  a  fine  view  of  the  sur- 
rounding scenery  is  obtainable.  St.  Louis  is  at  either 
extremity  somewhat  straggling  in  appearance,  and  ex- 
tends seven  miles  along  the  curve  of  the  river. 

It  may  or  may  not  be  generally  known  that  General 
Bruce  transmitted  three  hundred  dollars  on  behalf  of 
His  Royal  Highness  to  Blondin,  of  tight-rope  notori- 
ety, and  that  Mr.  Sanderson,  the  steward,  who  attend- 
ed to  the  royal  cuisine  in  Canada,  was  presented  with  a 
gold  watch  bearing  the  Prince's  crest,  and  that  similar 
favors  have  been  elsewhere  bestowed  under  like  cir- 
cumstances. 

The  Prince  and  suite  left  Dwight  at  eight  on  Wed- 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA, 


173 


ploughed 
3ded,  and 
and.  Ten 
^  seven  ty- 
and  sixty 
lie  of  ad- 
nany  even 
introduc- 
3  too  much 
ibroad  for 
Wales  has 
more  than 
loUections, 
ling  them, 
or  the  pro- 
ting  to  tlie 
h  has  radi- 
neighbors, 
slearer  atid 

3tern  shore 
Missouri, 
ty  is  built 
sixty  feet 
errace  wid- 
of  the  sur- 
3  at  either 
ice,  and  ex- 
ver. 

lat  General 
n  behalf  of 
ope  notori- 
svho  attend- 
nted  with  a 
that  similar 
ler  like  cir- 

ht  on  Wed- 


nesday morning.  I  am  told  that  before  leaving  the 
cottage,  he  planted  an  elm  in  the  garden,  and  named 
the  place  "  Renfrew  Lodge." 

The  train  arrived  af  Alt'^n,  its  destination,  on  the 
Mississippi,  twenty  miles  above  St.  Louis,  at  three 
o'clock,  without  the  occurrence  of  any  special  incident. 
The  royal  party  then  embarked  on  the  steamer  City 
of  Alton,  wiiere  they  were  met  by  Earl  St.  Germains, 
who  had  come  from  St.  Louis  to  meet  them,  upon 
which  they  started  for  that  city,  and  arrived  at  half- 
past  five  o'clock,  under  a  salute  from  a  solitary  cannon. 
The  upper  deck  was  alone  reserved  for  the  Prince  and 
suite,  the  lower  part  being  occupied  by  excursionists. 

There  was  hardly  any  crowd  as  the  vessel  steamed 
up  to  the  wharf,  but  before  the  disembarkation,  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  afterwards,  a  few  thousand  people 
had  gathered  near  the  landing  place. 

The  Prince  was  received  with  a  general  cheer  as  he 
stepped  asiiore  and  entered  one  of  the  carriages  in 
waiting,  but  the  curiosity  of  some  of  the  "  roughs"  led 
them  to  commit  the  indiscretion  of  running  close  along- 
side of  the  carriage  and  staring  at  the  occupants 
through  its  closed  windows.  The  other  carriages  con- 
taining the  suite  drove  off  in  an  opposite  direction,  in 
order  to  divide  the  crowd,  which  impeded  the  prog- 
ress of  that  containing  His  Royal  Highness.  How- 
evor,  within  less  than  ten  minutes  the  whole  party  had 
reached  the  hotel  and  tai^en  possession  of  their  quar- 
ters. 

The  nature  of  Albert  Edward,  Prince  of  Wales,  is 
of  a  highly  sensitive  order,  and  there  is  a  timidity 
about  him  which  makes  him  shrink  from  contact  with 
a  large  and  tumultuous  crowd,  such  as  that  which  sur- 
rounded his  carriage  on  the  occasion  of  his  landing. 
He  is  of  delicate  organization,  the  temperament  most 
allied  to  genius,  and  to  him  the  paths  of  peace  are 
most  welcome.  The  turbulent  manifestations  of  a  mob, 
however  well  meant  or  dictated  by  good  feeling,  could 


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174 


ROYALTY  IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  J   OR, 


i  L 


not  fail  to  grate  harshly  upon  one  of  so  much  natural 
and  acquired  refinement.  Therefore,  the  lower  strata 
of  the  democratic  element  may  have  proved  somewhat 
uncong-enial  to  him.  But  I  am  happy  to  say  that  the 
people  of  the  United  States  generally,  and  the  superi- 
or order  particularly,  studied  his  comfort,  pleasure, 
and  wishes  with  a  delicacy  dictated  by  that  good  sense 
which  is  their  prevailing  characteristic,  that  has  not 
failed  to  impress  him  and  his  suite  with  a  very  favor- 
able idea  of  American  consideration  and  courtesy. 
There  was  a  universal  desire  to  pay  him  respect  and 
do  him  honor,  and  the  aflfections  have  been  widely  en- 
listed in  his  welfare.  The  enthusiasm  was  even  great- 
er than  that  displayed  by  the  people  of  the  British 
Provinces. 

His  Royal  Highness  and  suite  left  the  hotel  in  car- 
riages on  the  next  morning  at  eleven  o'clock,  for  the 
purpose  of  visiting  the  principal  sights  of  the  city,  in- 
cluding the  fair. 

The  committee  of  leading  citizens,  headed  by  the 
Mayor,  accompanied  His  Royal  Highness. 

On  arriving  at  the  fair-grounds  the  party  were 
cheered,  to  which  the  Prince,  as  usual,  responded  by 
bowing  and  raising  his  hat.  He  accepted  the  invita- 
tion into  the  pagoda  in  tlie  centre  of  the  amphitheatre, 
and  inspected  the  stock  on  exhibition,  the  gaze  of  the 
forty  thousand  being  meanwhile  full  upon  him. 

The  party,  at  the  invitation  of  the  committee,  after- 
wards partook  of  luncheon  in  a  reserved  portion  of 
the  building.  The  sight  of  the  immense  multitude  on 
the  grounds  was  during  this  time  very  grand,  and  the 
enthusiasm  ran  high. 

The  drive  around  the  city  was  resumed  a  little  later, 
amid  prolonged  cheering  from  the  citizens,  and  it  was 
near  six  o'clock  before  the  illustrious  visitors  returned 
to  the  hotel,  much  pleased  with  their  day  out. 

The  peculiarities  of  St.  Louis  consist  in  its  red  brick 
houses,  its  smoky  and  ill-paved  streets,  its  large  Ger- 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


175 


man  population,  its  hotel  life,  and  the  "  Western  men" 
who  centre  in  it. 

The  houses  and  smoke  give  it  an  English  aspect ; 
the  streets  remind  me  of  Cape  Town  and  Melbourne 
as  they  were  seven  years  ago  ;  the  Germans  and  Ger- 
man bookstores  suggest  recollections  of  Munich  ;  but 
the  hotels  and  the  men  are  incomparable.  They  are 
of  the  West  Western. 

The  notices  posted  in  every  room  and  passage  of 
those  houses  of  entertainment  constitute  the  best  index 
of  the  nature  of  their  guests.  I  see  several  around  me 
now.  One  is — "  Gentlemen  are  requested  not  to  spit 
on  the  walls  or  scratch  matches  on  them."  Another 
announces,  **  If  gents  throw  their  boots  and  shoes  into 
the  public  hall  it  must  be  at  their  own  risk."  A  third 
I  will  not  mention.  The  fourth  gives  notice  that 
"  Gentlemen  without  a  sufficient  guarantee  of  baggage 
will  be  required  to  pay  in  advance  ;"  that  "  One  gen- 
tle pull  of  the  bell  is  sufficient ;"  that  "'  Gaming  is  ex- 
pressly forbidden,"  and  that  "  If  you  leave  your  light 
burning  after  going  to  bed,  it  will  be  the  duty  of  the 
watchman  to  inquire  the  cause."  Further,  "  Guests 
are  requested  not  to  ring  after  twelve  o'clock,  nor  un- 
necessarily disturb  the  quiet  of  the  house  during  the 
night,"  to  send  the  money  when  they  order  liquor  to 
tlieir  rooms,  and  if  they  have  meals  there,  not  to  place 
the  dishes  in  the  public  halls.  That  all  these  and 
more  such  notices  are  considered  necessary,  speaks 
very  poorly  for  the  refinement  of  the  floating  popula- 
tion of  St.  Louis. 

Those  who  want  to  see  the  restless  and  fast-eating 
propensities  of  the  American  character  will  find  them 
here  in  their  extreme  degree. 

I  need  not  enumerate  the  many  railways  from  the 
East  that  centre  at  tlie  city  of  which  I  speak,  but  the 
282  mile  long  line  from  Kansas,  and  the  20t)  mile  long 
line  from  the  direction  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  as 
also  the  southwestern  lines,  are  worthy  of  special  men- 


:'  i  il 


)     .< 


<  ,         it: 


I 


176 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


tion.  Yet  new  threads  will  soon  be  added  to  this 
giant  net-work  of  railways,  and  the  city,  which  is  now 
the  great  starting  point  from  civilization  to  the  wilder- 
ness— to  Kansas,  Nebraska,  and  Utah,  and  the  rugged 
wilds  of  the  Rocky  Mountains  leading  to  the  Territo- 
ries on  the  Pacific — will  itself  become  the  centre  of  a 
vast  civilized  region,  a  region  which  as  yet  is  includ- 
ed in  savagedom. 

The  river  fronting  St.  Louis  is  about  a  mile  wide 
and  seventy  feet  deep.  Its  waters  are  usually  more 
or  less  muddy,  and  stumps  of  trees  may  be  seen  float- 
ing quickly  onwards  in  the  swelling  current,  midstream, 
to  the  ocean.  Sand-banks,  barren  and  dreary,  here 
and  there  border  its  shores  for  several  miles  beyond, 
and  but  little  of  the  picturesque  meets  the  eye.  Fur- 
ther up,  however,  the  scenery  changes  ;  verdure  crowns 
the  elevations,  and  silver-stemmed  birches  and  green 
maples,  with  an  occasional  clump  of  huge  dark  pines, 
are  to  he  seen. 

When  the  Prince  and  party  returned  from  their 
drive  they  proceeded  to  the  balcony  in  front  of  Bar- 
num's  Hotel,  and  witnessed  the  working  of  one  of  three 
steam  fire-engines,  which  throbbed  aloud  in  quick  pul- 
sation as  it  threw  a  couple  of  heavy  jets  high  into  the 
air.  The  engines  were  a  few  minutes  later  driven  un- 
der the  windows  of  the  royal  apartments,  where  they 
gave  in  chorus  three  excruciating  cheers  from  their 
steam-pipes,  the  force  of  whose  sound  half  deafened 
the  assembled  crowd,  many  of  whom  would  have  sac- 
rificed a  month's  wages  rather  than  have  missed  a  sight 
of  the  Prince.  He  appeared  at  one  of  the  windows 
and  acknowledged  the  compliment  thus  paid  him  by 
the  firemen,  and  the  people  went  home  satisfied,  and 
new  faces  took  the  place  of  old  ones. 

His  Royal  Highness  and  suite  left  St.  Louis  soon 
after  eight. 

When  I  arrived  at  the  railway  station  in  Cincinnati, 
at  ten,  I  found  it  crowded  with  people,  who  were  all 


4 


THE  PRINCE   OF   WALclS   IN  AMERICA. 


17T 


in  a  state  of  anxious  expectation.  For  the  last  hund- 
red miles  of  the  journey  the  stations  had  been  more  or 
less  filled  with  the  same  eager  expectants  of  the  ap- 
proach of  royalty.  I  had,  however,  ascertained  two 
hours  previously  that,  owing  to  the  break  down  of  a 
freight  train,  the  progress  of  the  royal  one  had  been 
impeded,  and  that  the  illustrious  party  were  wait- 
ing at  Vincennes,  the  place  at  which  it  had  been  ar- 
ranged that  they  were  to  lunch,  till  the  track  was 
cleared. 

A  dispatch  was  received  at  the  hotel  at  ten,  announc- 
ing that  the  royal  train  would  not  arrive  till  two  A.M., 
and  at  that  hour  it  arrived  accordingly. 

To  me  "  Porkopolis"  is  as  the  face  of  an  old  friend  ; 
for,  years  ago,  I  traversed  its  streets,  and  sailed  down 
the  bright  and  rolling  waters  of  the  swift  Ohio.  With 
its  two  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  inhabitants,  it  is 
the  largest  capital  of  the  Mississippi  region,  the 
grand  emporium  of  western  commerce,  and  the  fifth  in 
importance  and  extent  in  the  whole  Union.  I  have 
ascended  the  hills  that  environ  the  three-mile  valley 
in  which  the  city  is  situated,  and  there  gazed  upon  its 
spires  and  domes  and  the  pleasant  scenery  of  Ken- 
tucky on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  river.  I  have  wit- 
nessed the  unpoetical  operation  of  pig-killing  in  its 
water-side  slaughter-houses,  where  the  swinish  herd 
were  converted  into  barreled  pork  by  steam  in  a  space 
of  time  almost  shockingly  short.  And  I  have  otherwise 
explored  the  ino  and  outs  of  the  big  town  which,  less 
than  eighty  years  ago,  was  a  mere  village  in  the  wil- 
derness, with  a  white  population  of  less  than  a  hund- 
red. It  is,  perhaps,  a  work  of  supererogation  to  say 
that  swine  were,  and  still  are  to  some  extent,  to  Cin- 
cinnati what  dogs  are  to  Constantinople  and  buzzards 
to  Lima — namely,  very  useful  scavengers.  These  wan- 
dering pigs  are  the  remnants  of  droves  or  "  acres,'' 
and  being  considered  municipal  property  are  allowed 
to  walh)w  about  tlie  suburbs  till  the  time  comes  when, 


;  ■    i 


•    i^ ''% 

4     'S 

;  *m 

y  t'm 

''  ^m 

■■  Im 

«  !( 

jw 

s  '  !  ( 

'^Pj 

■ 

'  4- 

m 

'  p. 

m 

-f  * 


178 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


according  to  periodical  custom,  they  are  sold  by  auc- 
tion, caught,  and  cut  up. 

On  the  next  morning,  Saturday,  the  Prince  and  suite, 
escorted  by  the  Mayor,  left  the  hotel  in  open  carriages 
and  visited  the  chief  points  of  interest  in  and  around 
the  city,  the  drive  culminating  on  Clifton  Heights 
where  the  party  alighted  at  tlie  residence  of  Mr.  R. 
B.  Bowler,  who  is  not  only  sole  proprietor  of  the 
Kentucky  Central  Railroad,  but  a  gentleman  cele- 
brated for  tlie  unique  and  costly  splendor  of  his  man- 
sion, which  may  be  called  the  Vathek  of  America. 
Here  Mr.  Bowler  had  the  honor  of  entertaining  the 
illustrious  travelers  at  luncheon,  after  which  the  drive 
was  resumed. 

In  the  evening  there  was  a  ball  at  the  Opera  House, 
the  less  I  say  about  which  the  better  it  will  please 
those  concerned. 

St.  John's  Church  was  the  centre  of  attraction  on  the 
Sunday,  and  I  am  afraid  the  eyes  of  the  congregation 
wandered  from  their  Bibles  tg  the  face  of  Albert  Ed- 
ward more  than  could  have  been  justified. 

Early  on  the  following  morning  the  "  Baron  "  and 
his  friends  left  by  special  train  for  Pittsburg,  and 
arrived  there  on  the  same  evening.  They  were  re- 
ceived by  the  Mayor  and  a  committee  of  citizens  at 
the  railway  station,  and  conducted  across  an  illumin- 
ated bridge  to  the  Monongahela  House. 


( r 


,  V:-     •,-  ,     t*-,   -'•■.  =,• 


.■     '>      y.i-:! 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


179 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


From  Pittsburg  to  Harrisburg— Over  the  Mountains — Fast  Traveling 
of  the  Prince — A  Mistake — His  Royal  Highness  in  Harrisburg — The 
Ladies  and  their  Affections — The  Arrival  in  Baltimore— The  Enthu- 
siasm— The  Reception  in  Washington — Republican  Simplicity,  etc. 

After  the  four  hundred  torches  had  died  out  on  the 
bridge,  the  Prince  was  serenaded  by  the  Duquesne 
Grays,  who  had  met  him  on  his  arrival  at  Alleghany 
City.  The  front  of  the  hotel  was  at  the  same  time 
illuminated  with  gas  jets,  and  the  crowd  of  spectators 
numbered  several  thousands.  The  cross  of  St.  George 
and  the  stars  and  stripes  swayed  to  and  fro  from  lines 
spanning. the  street,  and  notwithstan»3ing  the  wet  the 
enthusiasm  of  the  people  was  very  great.  The  popular 
expectation  ran  in  favor  of  His  Royal  Highness  pre- 
senting himself  to  the  admiring  audience  on  the  bal- 
cony, but  the  expectation  remained  unrealized,  for  the 
future  King  of  England  wisely  partook  of  dinner  and 
went  to  bed  at  an  early  hour. 

At  half-past  eleven  the  entire  party  entered  a  long 
file  of  carriages,  and  drove  by  a  circuitous  route  to  the 
Pennsylvania  Railway  Station.  The  crowd  near  the 
hotel  was  as  large  as  on  the  previous  evening,  and  the 
streets  through  which  the  cortege  passed  were  lined 
with  spectators,  who  cheered  and  shouted  as  the  pro- 
cession passed.  It  was  a  source  of  much  disappoint- 
ment to  some  of  the  citizens  that  His  Royal  Highness 
did  not  visit  the  rolling-mills,  at  Birmingham,  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  Ohio,  the  coal  mines,  and  other 
places  of  industrial  interest. 

On  arriving  at  the  station,  the  Grays,  who  were 
ready  to  receive  the  party,  cleared  a  passage  where 
the  Prince  alighted. 


f"  il 


'{] 


180 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW   WORLD  ;   OB, 


As  the  train  moved  away  there  was  a  grand  rush 
through  the  broken  lines  of  the  Grays,  and  the  five 
thousand  surged  alongside  and  over  the  platforms  of 
the  cars  with  semi-frantic  enthusiasm,  cheering  and 
shouting  and  waving  their  hats  as  they  went.  The 
Prince,  meanwhile,  stood  on  the  rear  platform,  bowing 
to  the  salutations  and  smiling  at  the  tumult. 

Tiie  weather,  although  not  rainy,  was  dull,  and  the 
ground  wet.  But  the  worst  feature  of  all  Pittsburg 
was  the  smoke,  which  filled  the  streets  and  every- 
body in  them.  The  city  may  well  be  called  the  Bir- 
mingham of  America,  which  is  the  dirtiest  to.vn  in 
England. 

The  two  hundred  and  eighty  miles'  ride  from  Pitts- 
burg to  Harrisburg  was  one  of  much  interest,  and 
occupied  nearly  ten  hours  in  its  performance.  The 
beautiful  scenery  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains  refreshed 
the  eye  mile  after  mile,  hour  after  hour,  as  the  iron 
horse  careered  on  its  way.  There  was  a  'pleasing 
blending  of  the  rugged  and  the  Smooth.  The  finest 
view  lay  on  the  left,  till  we  passed  with  a  rumbling 
rush  through  the  3612  feet  long  tunnel,  which  has  been 
bored  through  the  solid  rock.  We  were  at  this  time 
two  thousand  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  The  Juniata  River,  a  tributary  of  the  Susque- 
hanna, and  a  lengthy  stretch  of  canal,  kept  us  company 
over  a  portion  of  the  line,  and  varied  the  aspect  of  the 
majestic  prospect.  The  mountains  now  lay  on  our 
right,  here  and  there  streaked  with  the  rays  of  the 
sinking  sun  ;  but  a  gathering  mist  soon  hid  them  from 
our  view,  and,  night  following  quickly  after,  entirely 
shrouded  the  glorious  scene.  Give  me  a  bright  sun- 
ny day  in  spring  for  a  ride  through  the  AUeghanies. 
Gloom  and  darkness  become  them  not. 

There  are  as  beautiful  spots  in  the  AUeghanies  as 
the  White  Mountains,  but  they  are  less  known  to  fame, 
and  the  wants  of  the  traveler  are  here  but  little  at- 
tended to,  which  is  in  itself  a  formidable  drawback  in 


i 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


181 


the  eyes  of  even  the  most  devoted  admirer  of  romantic 
beauty  in  the  world. 

Fertile  valleys  with  a  mountain  background  are  ever 
fine  landscape  features,  and  the  valleys  of  the  Allegha- 
nies  are  pre-eminently  so. 

At  the  village  of  Gallitzin,  beautifully  secluded  in  a 
small  recess  of  the  Moiintains,  the  train  stopped,  the 
door  of  the  Prince's  car  opened,  and  that  illustrious 
scion  of  the  reigning  family  of  England  emerged  there- 
from, and,  accompanied  by  his  equerries  and  two  or 
three  others  of  the  suite,  ascended  the  locomotive. 

No  sooner  was  this  done  tlian  the  train  was  once 
more  set  in  motion,  and  away  over  the  summit  of  the 
mountains  flew  the  fire-fed  monster,  rounding  the  rapid 
descent  at  Kittaning  Point,  and  revealing  at  every 
bend  some  new  feature  in  the  magnificent  prospect  for 
the  delectation  of  its  riders.  The  moon  shed  her  placid 
beams  upon  the  delicious  and  tranquil  scene,  and  as 
the  steam-horse  plunged  down  the  valley  of  the  Juniata 
the  view  was  one  of  the  highest  fascination.  The  river 
glistened  like  molten  silver,  every  tree  stood  out  in 
bold  relief  on  the  hill  sides,  the  crags  looked  naked, 
the  grass  green,  the  foliage  sombre,  the  elevations 
grand,  the  steeps  lovel3%  and  insensibly  the  poetry  of 
the  hour  worked  its  influence  upon  the  mind  of  the 
spectator. 

At  Altoona  the  party  alighted  and  re-entered  the 
cars,  and  so  this  pleasant  incident  ended. 

It  was  no  joke,  but  real  hard  work,  this  traveling 
with  the  Prince.  In  this  respect  he  may  be  considered 
about  the  fastest  young  man  of  the  age,  and  presents 
a  singular  contrast  to  the  torpidity  of  some  of  his  mas- 
culine ancestors,  who,  if  it  were  possible  to  awaken 
them  from  their  graves  and  tell  them  the  history  o: 
Victoria's  oldest  son,  would  return  some  such  answer 
as  "  You  may  tell  that  to  the  marines,  but  the  sailors 
won't  believe  it,"  for  before  those  fellows  died,  steam- 
ers and  railways  were  undreamed  of,  and  the  winds 


;,!  ;  . 


182 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


11 


M 


I, a 


of  heaven  and  the  sinews  of  liorses  were  alone  trusted 
to  in  the  performance  of  a  journey.  But  time  works 
changes,  and  history  proclaims  the  rest. 

I  will  glance  at  Harrisburg,  where  at  the  hotel  I 
resigned  myself  to  slumber,  and  awoke  to  find  a  large 
crowd  in  front  of  my  room  window.  I  drew  aside  the 
curtain,  when,  lo  !  a  thousand  voices  exclaimed  aloud, 
"  There  he  is  I"  and  fingers  were  pointed  like  bayonets 
at  my  diminished  head — for  what  could  it  be  but  di- 
minished after  that,  and  what  better  could  I  do  than 
hide  it?  I  did  so,  and  proceeded  to  dress,  reflecting 
meanwhile  upon  the  circumstance  of  my  having  been, 
for  the  moment,  mistaken  for  the  gentleman  in  the 
next  room  but  one,  who  at  some  future  period  (God 
willing)  will  ascend  the  throne  of  England  and  be- 
come the  nominal  ruler  of  a  great  people. 

At  nine  o'clock  the  Prince  and  suite,  having  previ- 
ously breakfasted,  drove  in  open  carriages  to  the  State 
House,  from  the  roof  of  which  a  splendid  view  of  the 
city  is  obtainable.  There  you  see  the  silent  Susque- 
hanna, coiled  like  a  serpent  in  a  garden,  and  spotted 
with  flowery  islets.  You  have  that  pleasant  antithe- 
sis afl'orded  by  an  intermingling  of  hill  and  valley, 
mirror-like  glimpses  of  water,  verdure,  forest,  and  a 
town  with  eleven  thousand  inhabitants,  and  after  the 
survey  of  the  prospect  you  return  to  terra  firma,  feel- 
ing well  repaid  for  the  trouble  incurred  in  ascending 
the  steps. 

The  Mayor,  crowned  with  a  hat  contrasting  in  its 
shallowness  with  the  shiny  length  of  the  "  stove-pipe" 
sombreros  worn  by  the  royal  party,  sat  beside  the 
Prince,  and  opposite  them  sat  His  Grace  the  Duke  of 
Newcastle  and  Lord  Lyons.  The  committee  of  ci tizena 
followed  the  suite  in  other  carriages. 

There  was  great  anxiety  manifested  by  all  to  get  a 
sight  of  the  British  lion,  and  a  hot  pursuit  of  the  car- 
riages was  the  result.  This  made  the  way  cheerful 
and  dusty,  and  enabled  the  illustrious  guests  to  over- 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


183 


trusted 
}  works 

hotel  I 
a  large 
^side  the 
d  aloud, 
)ayonet3 
3  but  di- 
do than 
eflecting 
ng  been, 
a  in  the 
od  (God 
and  be- 

ig  previ- 
the  State 
BW  of  the 
t  Susque- 
I  spotted 
t  antithe- 
valley, 
st,  and  a 
after  the 
rma,  feel- 
scending 

ng  in  its 
>vepipe" 
jside  the 
Duke  of 
f  citizens 


hear  the  remarks  of  the  people  as  to  their  appearance 
and  the  like,  which,  however,  only  tended  to  convince 
tliem  that  tliey  were  all  good-looking  fellows,  partic- 
ularly Albert  Edward,  with  whom  all  the  ladies  ap- 
peared to  hove  fallen  desperately  in  love,  notwith- 
standing the  improbability  of  that  love  being  ever  re- 
turned. 

At  twenty  minutes  past  nine  ("  Bless  me,  how  ex- 
act you  are!"  exclaims  my  conscience,)  the  vehicles 
found  their  way  to  the  railway  station,  and  the  royal 
party  into  the  cars  of  the  special  train  of  the  Northern 
Central  Railway  Company,  which  started  immediately 
afterwards,  in  the  presence  of  three  or  four  hundred 
spectators,  who  cast  one  last,  long,  lingering  look  after 
us  as  we — that  is  to  say  the  train — receded  from  their 
vision.  •        •■ 

The  scenery  after  starting,  embracing  the  Susque- 
hanna River,  which  looked  like  a  miniature  lake  of  the 
Thousand  islands,  was  very  picturesque,  and  so  were 
two  young  women  in  short  frocks,  who  stood  on  a  hill- 
side waving  towels  or  pocket-handkerchiefs  for  the 
gratification  of  royal  eyes,  which  saw  and  sparkled  as 
they  glanced. 

At  every  station  there  was  a  crowd  proportionate 
to  the  number  of  inhabitants,  notwithstanding  the  slen- 
der hopes  of  seeing  tlie  object  of  so  much  popular  curi- 
osity and  esteem.  Baltimore,  however,  dimmed  every 
preceding  daylight  ovation  in  the  States.  Along  the 
track  on  either  side,  the  ground  was  packed  with  hu- 
man forms,  but  in  front  of  the  platform  where  the  car 
wheels  ceased  their  revolutions,  the  concourse  was  as 
dense  as  pushing  could  make  it. 

A  capital  brass  band  played  "  God  save  the  Queen," 
and  followed  up  the  performance  with  several  other 
tunes  as  His  Royal  Highness  stepped  from  the  car,  and 
exchanged  a  shake  of  the  hand  with  the  Mayor  of  the 
city,  the  British  Consul,  and  the  members  of  a  commit- 
tee of  citizens,  amid  the  cheers  of  the  assembled  thou- 


'I 


'^Jir 


i 


184 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


sands.  Everybody  seemed  disposed  to  climb  on  some- 
body else's  shoulders  as  the  Prince,  the  Duke,  Lord 
Lyons,  and  otliers  of  the  suite  stood  conversing  and 
smiling  witli  those  who  had  just  welcomed  them  to  the 
city.  Tlie  fineness  of  tlie  weather  enhanced  the  pleas- 
ure of  the  spectators,  and  lent  a  radiant  beauty  to  the 
picture,  natural  though  it  was,  and  free  of  everything 
bizarre. 

After  a  few  minutes'  delay,  it  being  now  a  quarter 
past  one,  tlie  party  entered  the  carriages  in  waiting — 
the  police,  meanwhile,  having  great  difficulty  in  keep- 
ing the  multitude  even  partially  in  check,  so  as  to  al- 
low of  a  passage  sufficient  for  an  individual  to  struggle 
through. 

The  Mayor  sat  beside  the  Prince,  according  to  inva- 
riable usage,  and  the  cortege  drove  to  the  Camden 
Station  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Railroad.  The 
thoroughfares  through  which  the  carriages  passed 
were  lined  with  citizens,  and  thousands  followed  behind 
and  alongside,  cheering  and  waving  hats,  caps,  and 
newspapers  ;  while  ladies,  with  fluttering  pocket-hand- 
kerchiefs, eyed  the  great  hero  of  the  day  with  intense 
delight,  which  subsided  into  regret  as  he  disappeared 
from  their  view.  Alas  I  that  these  young  ladies  should 
have  been  born  to  wish  for  what  they  could  never 
have. 

The  crowd  at  the  other  station  was  very  large  as 
the  royal  party  alighted  from  their  carriages  and  took 
leave  of  the  Mayor  and  citizens  till  their  return,  after 
which  the  special  train  moved  onward  towards  Wash- 
ington, where  we  arrived,  without  incident,  at  four 
o'clock.  General  Cass  was  on  the  platform  to  receive 
His  Royal  Highness,  and,  on  being  introduced  by  Lord 
Lyons,  shook  hands  with  him  very  warmly.  He  then 
welcomed  him  to  the  United  States  in  a  few  words, 
and  introduced  the  Private  Secretary  of  the  Presi- 
dent, Mayor  Berret,  Mr.  Ledyard,  and  a  few  others, 
with  each  of  whom  the  Prince  exchanged  a  cordial 


n  some- 
e,  Lord 
x\g  and 
m  to  the 
le  pleas- 
ty  to  the 
jrythin 


o 


,  quarter 
ailing — 
in  keep- 
as  to  al- 
struggle 

r  to  inva- 
Camden 
ad.    The 
IS   passed 
ed  behind 
caps,  and 
iket-liand- 
th  intense 
appeared 
ies  should 
lid  never 

large  as 
and  took 
turn,  after 
rds  Wash- 
at  four 
|to  receive 
by  Lord 
He  then 
jw  words, 
the  Prcsi- 
ivr  others, 
a  cordial 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


185 


greeting.  He  was  then  conducted  to  the  President's 
carriage,  in  waiting,  in  which  General  Cass  took  ^  j 
seat  beside  him.  The  suite  having  been  seated  in 
other  private  equipages,  all  drove  away  towards  the 
White  House. 

Tiio  sides  of  Pennsylvania  Avenue  were  tliickly 
studded  with  men,  women,  and  children,  and  in  the 
road  fronting  the  White  House  there  was  another 
large  gathering. 

He  was  received  at  the  threshold  of  the  White 
House  by  President  Buchanan,  who  looked  as  com- 
posed as  usual.  He  shook  him  by  the  hand  in  the 
most  fatherly  manner  imaginable,  and  like  one  who 
knew  his  guest  well.  It  was  just  such  a  hearty  wel- 
come as  a  rich  old  bachelor  uncle  would  give  to  the 
nephew  he  intended  to  make  his  heir.  There  was, 
consequently,  no  mistake  about  its  sincerity. 

Of  course,  it  was  not  long  before  he  introduced  his 
niece,  Miss  Lane,  to  his  illustrious  guest,  and  the  blush 
of  beauty  stole  across  her  features  as  she  echoed  the 
old  man's  greeting,  more  inwardly,  however,  than 
aloud. 

Li  the  course  of  an  hour  after  this,  the  grounds  of 
the  White  House  presented  a  gay  scene.  The  Presi- 
dent, with  the  Prince  and  suite,  and  nearly  a  hundred 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  composed  of  the  elite  of  Wash- 
ington society,  were  out  walking  and  enjoying  the 
pleasures  of  fresh  air,  a  fine  view  and  cheerful  conver- 
sation. Meanwhile,  the  boys  and  girls  from  the  back 
streets  were  enjoying  their  part  in  the  world's  great 
show,  by  grinning  at  them  through  the  gate  railings 
and  other  places  in  the  distance,  which  latter,  no 
doubt,  lent  enchantment  to  the  view. 

Dinner  followed  at  the  Presidential  mansion,  the 
company,  in  addition  to  the  royal  party,  consisting  of 
Cabinet  Ministers  and  their  wives,  Lord  Lyons  and 
his  first  Secretary  of  Legation,  and  two  or  three 
others.  v.-       -----         ^ 


.i  »  : 


1^ 


U    i 


%. 


186 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J   OR, 


It  was  about  eleven  on  the  next  morning  when  the 
Prince,  accompanied  by  Lord  Lyons,  Secretary  Floyd, 
and  otliers,  drove  up  to  the  eastern  front  of  the  Capi- 
tol, where  he  was  received  by  the  architect  and  chief 
engineer  of  the  public  works,  and  by  them  conducted 
over  the  building.  First  they  visited  the  library,  from 
which  they  passed  by  a  private  staircase  to  the  Senate 
Chamber  and  the  committee-rooms,  and  thence  to  the 
rotunda,  where  the  beautiful  paintings  hung  round  its 
magnificent  interior  attracted  their  especial  attention. 
The  history  of  Pocahontas  was  inquired  into,  and  even 
the  "  Surrender  of  Lord  Cornwallis"  became  a  theme 
of  pleasant  conversation.  From  this  they  proceeded 
through  the  old  hall  of  the  House  of  Representatives 
to  the  new  liall  of  the  House,  where  the  sides  occupied 
by  the  administration  and  opposition  members  were 
pointed  out,  and  much  general  information  afforded  in 
answer  to  their  queries.  The  Speaker's  room  was 
next  entered,  then  the  Agricultural  and  other  rooms, 
the  Naval  and  Military  Committee  apartments  and 
offices  of  the  Senate.  The  party  then  viewed  the  Cap- 
itol grounds  from  the  portico  of  the  east  front,  and, 
descending  the  steps  after  half  an  hour's  stay,  drove 
back  to  the  White  House,  where,  at  noon,  the  doors 
were  thrown  open  for  the  President's  reception  in 
honor  of  the  Prince  of  Wales. 

I  went  in  with  the  crowd  of  ladies  and  gentlemen, 
nearly  all  of  whom  were  in  their  usual  morning  dress, 
a  few  military  and  naval  uniforms  excepted.  Such  a 
flutter  of  crinoline  never  was  seen  in  the  Presidential 
Mansion  before,  such  a  glistening  of  bright  eyes,  all 
having  tlie  one  object  in  view  ;  such  a  busy  murmur 
of  women's  voices,  all  bearing  upon  the  one  theme,  and 
that  theme  the  Prince  of  VVales,  who  stood  almost 
within  hearing  in  the  east  room,  and  on  the  right  of 
the  President. 

I  need  not  mention  how  Mr.  Buchanan  was  dressed, 
for  he  was  perhaps  never  seen  either  at  breakfast,  dia- 


mm 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


187 


ner,  or  supper,  in  any  other  costume  than  a  black  dress 
suit  and  white  necktie  ;  but  I  may  say  that  the  Prince 
appeared  in  the  same  colored  clothes  that  he  wore 
during  the  morning. 

It  was  evidently  wonderfully  new  to  His  Royal 
Highness  to  see  such  familiarity  between  ruler  and 
subject  as  he  did  on  this  occasion.  It  was  contrary 
to  his  ideas  of  a  levee  for  ladies  to  attend,  especially 
when  they  all  came  up  smiling  in  their  bonnets,  and 
said,  "  How  are  you,  Mr.  Buchanan  ?"  at  the  same 
time  extending  their  hands  for  the  old  gentleman  to 
shake,  which  he  did  with  his  usual  warmth  and  frank- 
ness, so  much  so  that  if  he  had  exclaimed  to  those  he 
knew  best,  "  Bless  me,  Betsey,  how  well  you're  look- 
ing," it  would  have  created  but  little  surprise  on  tlie 
part  of  Albert  Edward. 

The  host  of  the  White  House  stood  on  the  eastern 
window  side  of  the  room,  but  not  far  from  its  centre, 
and  very  soon  the  apartment,  extensive  as  it  is,  became 
uncomfortably  crowded,  and  the  Prince  showed  signs 
of  weariness  of  the  reception  before  it  had  progressed 
half  an  hour.  Many  of  the  ladies  and  some  of  the  gen- 
tlemen extended  their  hands  to  him  after  exchanging 
a  cordial  shake  with  the  President,  and  this  His  Royal 
Highness  evidently  felt  to  be  a  great  bore,  although 
politeness  compelled  him  to  submit  to  it  with  a  show 
of  pleasure. 

The  reception  did  not  last  an  hour,  and  many  that 
arrived  at  one  o'clock  were  too  late  for  presentation, 
although  most  of  them  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  glimpse 
of  him  standing  near  the  central  window  of  the  man- 
sion, where  he  engaged  in  conversation  with  Mr.  Bu- 
chanan and  his  suite. 

After  luncheon  tlie  Prince  and  party,  including  Miss 
Lane,  drove  to  the  Patent-office,  wlierc  they  inspected 
the  Japanese  collection,  the  autograplis  of  celebrated 
persons,  and  other  curiosities,  in  addition  to  the  mod- 
els, plans,  and  such  like,  for  which  the  building  is 


f 

1 

ll 

* 

i 

*, 

■■H 


fii 


r4 


d 


:i 


188 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW   WORLD  J  OR, 


mainly  intended.  From  this  the  lady  of  the  White 
House  took  her  royal  guest  to — what  will  his  mother 
and  the  people  of  England  say  ? — a  young  ladies'  acad- 
emy, where  he,  the  future  King  of  England,  played 
ten-pins  for  two  hours  with  Miss  Lane  herself  and  her 
friends.  This  was  a  fine  afternoon  amusement,  cer- 
tainly, and  no  doubt  will  long  le  remembered  both  by 
the  Prince  of  Wales  and  all  the  young  ladies  present 
on  the  occasion. 

At  half-past  six,  tliirty-five  sat  down  to  dinner  at 
the  White  House,  the  guests  being  chiefly  the  foreign 
ministers  at  Washington.  In  the  evening  about  six 
hundred  ladies  and  gentlemen  were  present  by  invita- 
tion, and  at  half-past  nine  the  much-talked  of  fire- 
works began,  and  lasted  hardly  half  an  hour.  The 
sky  pieces  were  very  brilliant,  notwithstanding  tlie 
misty  atmosphere  and  a  drizzling  rain  that  fell.  Fount- 
ains of  flame  played  without  intermission  for  more 
than  a  minute  in  the  air,  and  floods  of  crimson  and 
golden  light  were  let  loose  in  the  heavens  with  a  re- 
sult that  was  gorgeous  in  the  extreme. 

Five  sixths  of  the  population  of  Washington  and  its 
suburbs  were  on  the  ground  when  the  last  piece — a 
frame-work  device,  including  the  arms  of  England  and 
the  United  State?;  with  symbols  and  mottoes,  and  the 
figures  of  Columbia  and  Britannia — blazed  out  upon 
the  view  with  a  splendor  not  to  be  depicted  in  words. 

During  the  whole  time  of  this  pyrotechnical  display 
the  President  and  his  royal  guest,  together  with  as 
many  of  the  six  hundred  as  could  find  standing  room 
under  the  rear  portico,  were  witnesses  of  it. 

When  the  last  lights  had  died  away  there  was  a  tre- 
mendous rusli  towards  the  gates  leading  into  Penn- 
sylvania Avenue,  and  down  that  wide  thoroughfare 
there  poured,  for  more  than  an  hour,  a  torrent  of  hu- 
man beings,  carriages,  and  omnibuses,  such  as  the 
Federal  Metropolis  never  saw  before. 


White 
mother 
s'  acad- 
played 
md  her 
!nt,  cer- 
both  by 
present 

nner  at 
foreign 
30ut  six 
f  invita- 
of  fire- 
ir.    The 
ling  the 
,  Fount- 
'or  more 
ison  and 
ith  a  re- 

n  and  its 
I  piece — a 
fland  and 
I,  and  the 
jut  upon 
[n  words. 
1  display 
with  as 
ling  room 

ras  a  tre- 
Ito  Penn- 
[•oughfare 

it  of  hu- 
|h  as  the 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


189 


./     ^        .     CHAPTER  XXII. 

The  Prince's  Visit  to  Mount  Vernon— The  Trip  of  the  Royal  Party 
and  Hosts  down  the  Potomac—Arrival  at  Mount  Vernon — The 

"  Prince  evinces  a  deep  Interest  in  the  History  of  Washington— He 
Plants  a  Tree  in  Commemoration  of  Lis  Visit— He  Pockets  some 

3  Horse-Chestnuts,  which  he  intends  to  Plant  in  Windsor  Park — The 
Return  Trip— The  Quarter-Deck  of  the  Revenue  Cutter  Devoted  to 
the  Disciples  of  Terpsichore — The  Prince  at  Richmond,  etc. 

The  most  interesting  event  connected  with  the 
Prince  of  Wales'  progress  through  the  United  States 
was  the  visit,  with  President  Buchanan  to  the  Tomb 
of  Washington,  of  which  it  has  been  truly  said  : 

There  rests  the  man,  the  flower  of  human  kind, 
Whose  visage  mild  bespoke  his  nobler  mind  ;  • 

There  rests  the  soldier  who  his  sword  ne'er  drew         ? 
But  in  a  righteous  cause,  to  freedom  true  ;  t 

TLere  rests  the  hero,  who  ne'er  fought  for  fame, 
'  '       Yet  gained  more  glory  than  a  Caesar's  name  ; 
There  rests  the  statesman  who,  devoid  of  art, 

;i  ^  Gave  soundest  counsel  from  an  upright  heart. 

And,  Oh  I  Columbia,  by  thy  sons  caressed, 
There  rests  the  Father  of  the  realms  he  blessed,        • 

»  Wbo  no  wish  felt  to  make  his  mighty  praise,  » 

,  .^       Like  other  chiefs,  the  means  himself  to  raise  ;  , 

But  when  retiring,  breathed  in  pure  renown, 
And  felt  a  gtaudeur  that  disowned  a  crown.  ■ 

The  party,  in  addition  to  Mr.  Buchanan  and  the 
Prince  and  suite,  consisted  of  Miss  Lane,  Mr.  Cass,  all 
the  heads  of  departments  and  their  wives  and  daugh- 
ters, and  several  others  of  less  official  note.  The 
steamer  in  which  they  made  the  excursion  was  the 
Government  cutter  Harriet  Lane.  Only  those  of  the 
royal  and  official  party  were  admitted  on  board,  not 
excepting  the  gentlemen  of  the  press,  for  the  worthy 
host  of  tlie  White  House  had  said,  in  reply  to  a  ques 


;^:  I'd 


190 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;    OR, 


'  m 


tion  bearing  upon  them,  "  No  ;  the  press  is  to  be  sup- 
pressed on  this  occasion." 

As  the  Prince  and  Miss  Lane  were  passing  from  the 
carriage  to  the  steamer,  which  lay  at  the  foot  of  the 
Arsenal,  amid  the  boom  of  a  national  salute,  one  of 
the  officers  of  the  establishment  stepped  forward  and 
presented  her  with  a  bouquet,  upon  which  she  mirth- 
fully feigned  to  believe  that  it  was  intended  for  her 
companion,  and  offered  it  to  him  ;  but  Albert  Edward, 
with  his  usual  gallantry,  laughed,  and  assured  her  that 
the  flowers  were  for  her,  and  she  accepted  the  assur- 
ance and  the  bouquet  accordingly.  -     ' 

Then,  at  eleven  o'clock,  and  all  being  on  board,  the 
paddle-wheels  flew  round,  while  the  last  notes  of  "  God 
save  the  Queen"  were  being  played  by  the  Marine  Band 
on  deck.  Another  national  salute  was  fired,  and  the 
flags  with  which  the  rigging  was  dressed  fluttered 
gayly  *n  the  sunshine  and  the  breeze  as  the  vessel 
glided  through  the  glistening  waters  of  the  Potomac 
towards  Mount  Vernon. 

The  beauty  of  the  weather  enhanced  the  yet  rarer 
beauty  of  the  scenery,  through  which  the  winding 
stream  coursed  so  calmly  that  hardly  a  ripple  broke 
its  mirror-like  surface.  On  either  hand  the  dark 
green  foliage  of  the  woods  enframed  it.  save  where  the 
spires  and  chimneys  of  Alexandria  rose  on  the  right. 
Some  small  steamers  and  sailing  craft  lay  at  its  wharf, 
and  were  dressed  in  honor  of  the  passing  guest.  Con- 
versation filled  up  the  time  during  which  the  sixteen 
miles  from  Washington  were  run,  and  the  Prince  de- 
clared it  a  delightful  sail.  The  steamer  anchored. 
The  party  went  ashore  in  small  boats,  and  were  met 
on  the  platform  by  Mr.  John  A.  Washington,  who  con- 
ducted them  to  the  tomb,  on  arriving  at  which  the  band 
played  the  dirge  "  Trovatore,"  the  solemn  and  impres- 
sive strains  of  which  added  a  singular  effect  to  the 


scene. 


All  present  felt  they  were  standing  on  hallowed 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


191 


ground.  Around  them  was  the  deep  wooded  dell  in 
which  venerable  oaks  spread  their  brawny  arms  over 
luxuriant  shrubbery,  extending  to  the  water's  side. 
Before  them  was  the  mausoleum — an  arched  vault,  sur- 
rounded by  a  brick  wall,  with  a  pointed  arch  and 
double  gates  of  iron  railings  opening  into  the  outer 
chamber,  in  which  were  two  marble  sarcophagi,  on 
each  of  which  rested  a  slab  ;  the  one  to  the  right  bear- 
ing the  inscription,  "  Within  this  inclosure  rest  the  re- 
mains of  General  George  Washington,"  and  the  other, 
"  Martlia,  wife  of  Washington." 

The  Prince  made  several  remarks  appreciative  of 
the  glorious  character  of  the  man  whose  death  was  de- 
plored by  his  country  and  whose  deeds  and  history  are 
imperishable.  He  expressed  a  willingness  to  plant  a 
tree  on  the  spot  in  commemoration  of  his  visit,  and, 
some  horse-chestnuts  having  been  handed  to  him,  he 
stooped  down  and  placed  them  in  the  earth.  He 
afterwards  put  a  few  more  in  his  pocket  with  the 
intention  as  he  said,  of  planting  them  in  Windsor 
Park  on  his  return  home  as  another  memento  of  a 
visit  which  he  should  ever  regard  with  feelings  of 
peculiar  interest. 

From  the  tomb  the  company  bent  their  steps  towards 
the  house  of  Washington — a  long,  two-storied  wooden 
building  facing  the  river,  and  with  two  wings  stand- 
ing at  right  angles  to  it  and  connected  with  the  main 
part  by  open  corridors,  while  the  entrance  in  the  court, 
formed  by  the  wings,  was  flanked  by  a  row  of  negro 
huts  and  other  out-buildings  in  the  rear.  This  was 
only  thirty  yards  distant,  and  approached  by  a  path 
across  the  grounds.  .        -  »    ■ 

For  more  than  two  hours  the  illustrious  visitors  con- 
tinued their  stay,  during  the  whole  time  of  which  they 
were  occupied  in  visiting  and  inquiring  into  the  sur- 
roundings of  the  interesting  spot.  They  then  returned 
by  boats  to  the  steamer,  where  a  dejeuner  was  at  once 
served ;  after  which,  by  general  consent,  there  was  a 


!i 


>    ' 


I .,  ?; 


192 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :   OR, 


dance  on  deck,  the  speed  of  the  vessel  being  reduced 
at  His  Royal  Highness'  suggestion,  in  order  to  prolong 
the  pleasure. 

Then  flying  feet  tripped  to  the  swell  of  music,  and 
eyes  looked  love  to  eyes  which  spake  again,  as  Byron 
said  of  the  ball  at  Brussels. 

It  was  more  than  lialf-past  live  when  the  Harriet 
Lane  touched  the  wharf  at  the  Navy  Yard,  where 
private  carriages  were  in  waiting  for  the  fortunate 
few. 

A  salute  was  fired  in  honor  of  the  return,  and  soon 
afterwards  the  cortege  created  a  sensation  on  Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue,  which  attracted  long  lines  of  spectators. 
A  crowd  on  foot,  on  liorseback,  and  in  vehicles,  also 
kept  pace  with  the  procession  in  the  middle  of  the 
road. 

At  eight  the  Prince  and  suite,  the  Marquis  of  Chan- 
dos,  and  otliers,  dined  with  Lord  Lyons  at  his  residence, 
and  on  Saturday  morning  His  Royal  Highness  toolc 
leave  of  the  President,  liis  niece,  and  others,  with  regret 
and  many  assurances  of  the  pleasure  he  had  derived 
from  his  stay  at  the  Federal  Metropolis  and  White 
House.  :' 

He  then  left  Washington,  accompanied  by  the  mem- 
bers of  the  Cabinet,  on  board  the  Harriet  Lane,  at  a 
few  minutes  past  ten,  under  a  salute  from  the  Arsenal 
and  amid  the  clieers  of  crowds  collected  at  the  river- 
side. 

After  a  sail  of  fifty-five  miles  down  the  picturesque 
stream,  he  landed  at  Acquia  Creek,  on  the  Virginia 
shore,  from  which  he  proceeded  by  the  special  train  in 
waiting  to  the  capital  of  the  Old  Dominion. 

The  multitude  that  congregated  at  every  station  on 
the  way  was  surprisingly  large,  but  Richmond  itself, 
in  the  eager  demonstration  of  its  assembled  thousands, 
eclipsed  every  other  place  the  Prince  had  visited. 

The  Mayor  and  a  committee  of  citizens  were  in  wait- 
ing to  receive  him  at  the  Fair  Grounds  Railway  Station, 


i0 


reduced 
)  prolong 

insic,  and 
as  Byron 

3  Harriet 

I'd,  where 

fortunate 

,  and  soon 
a.  Pennsyl- 
spectators. 
licles,  also 
die  of  the 

is  of  Chan- 
5  residence, 
hness  todlc 
ivith  regret 
ad  derived 
,nd  White 

the  mem- 
Lane,  at  a 
Ihe  Arsenal 
the  riv.er- 

)icturesque 
le  Virginia 
lial  train  in 

La 

station  on 
lond  itself, 

thousands, 
risited. 
lere  in  wait- 
?ay  Station, 


THE   PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


193 


two  miles  out  of  town,  on  his  arrival,  which  took  place 
about  six ;  but  owing  to  the  immense  crowd  at  the 
Exchange  Hotel,  where  he  quartered,  it  was  seven 
o'clock  before  he  entered  his  rooms,  and  tlien  only 
after  struggling  through  a  swaying  mass  tliat,  not  only 
filled  the  adjoining  streets,  but  all  the  approaclics  to  liis 
apartments.  It  was  not  till  some  hours  had  elapsed 
that  curiosity  abated  sufficiently  to  clear  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  multitude  anxious  to  see  the  heir  apparent 
to  the  British  throne,  when  all  was  as  tranquil  as  usual 
in  this  quiet-going  old  city. 

Like  good  Christians,  the  Prince  and  his  suite  went 
to  St.  Paul's  Church  on  the  Sunday,  and  I  occupied  a 
pew  next — but  twenty-one — to  His  Royal  Highness. 
The  congregation  was  large  and  fashionable,  and,  of 
course,  there  was  the  usual  display  of  crinoline,  kid 
gloves,  and  pretty  bonnets,  and  the  usual  flutter  among 
the  ladies  of  the  Old  Dominion.  Indeed,  the  lady 
members  of  the  congregation  were  in  a  delightful  state 
of  excitement  from  the  arrival  to  the  departure  of 
Albert  Edward  of  Wales,  who  has  been  the  object  oi 
many  of  the  most  endearing  expressions  I  have  ever 
heard,  from  cradledom  up  to  the  present  moment. 
But  let  me  not  tell  tales.  I  have  no  wish  to  be  an 
eavesdropper. 

The  crowd  that  escorted  him  to  church  by  fol- 
lowing his  carriage  afoot  was  only  exceeded  by  the 
crowd  that  pursued  him  thence  to  the  Capitol  after 
the  conclusion  of  the  ordinary  service.  He  was  ac- 
companied at  this  time  only  by  the  Duke  of  Newcastle, 
Lord  Lyons,  and  the  Mayor  of  the  city. 

Thoy  were  received  on  arriving  by  the  Governor 
of  the  State,  who  conducted  them,  first,  into  the  Hall 
of  Delegates,  where  an  old  arm-chair,  formerly  that  of 
the  Speaker  of  the  House  of  Burgesses,  while  this 
country  was  a  British  colony,  was  pointed  out  to 
them ;  also  the  full  length  portraits,  in  oil,  of  the 
Earl  of  Chatham,  in  a  Roman  toga,  and  Thomas 


m 


\-\ 


■^1 

ill 

Pm 

« 

M 

,  .) 

11 

li 

M 

194 


EOYALTY  m  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


Jefferson,  wliich  were  originally  bequeathed  to  the 
county  of  Westmoreland,  and  by  the  county  given  to 
Virginia.  Here  the  crowd  surrounded  the  royal  party, 
and  it  was  with  difficulty  that  the  few  composing  it 
passed  into  the  rotunda,  the  multitude  surging  a-fter 
them  in  their  exuberance  of  good  feeling. 

The  marble  statue  of  Washington,  by  Houdon,  in 
the  centre  of  this,  first  attracted  their  attention. 

A  marble  bust  of  Lafayette  filled  one  of  the  eight 
niches  of  the  surrounding  wall,  the  other  seven  being 
empty. 

The  Senate  chamber  was  next  entered,  a  stream  of 
men  and  boys  pouring  in  at  the  same  time.  Tliey 
then  descended  the  steps  to  the  portico,  from  which, 
owing  to  the  Capitol  being  situated  on  an  elevated 
plain  near  the  summit  of  Shockhoe  Hill,  a  wide  and 
picturesque  view  presented  itself.  The  course  of  the 
James  River  was  there  traceable  for  miles,  and  a  com- 
plete panorama  of  the  city,  with  all  its  hill  and  dale, 
riveted  the  eye. 

From  this  point  Richmond  had  a  far  more  impos- 
ing effect  than  as  viewed  from  any  other  portion  of 
the  city.  The  approach  by  river,  however,  commands 
a  still  finer  prospect ;  but  this  vanishes  like  mirage 
as  the  vessel  draws  alongside  the  wharf,  where  all  is 
prosaic  black  and  white.  And  now  His  Royal  High- 
ness stepped  a  hundred  yards  into  the  Governor's 
house,  where  several  of  the  family  and  friends  of  the 
latter  were  presented. 

Ten  minutes  elapsed  before  the  visitors  drove  back 
to  the  hotel,  followed  by  a  rushing  mass  of  people. 

After  luncheon,  the  Prince,  the  Mayor,  and  several 
of  the  suite  drove  to  the  Holywood  Cemetery,  a  mile 
out  of  town,  where,  at  the  monument  erected  over  the 
grave  of  Monroe,  the  party  halted  in  silence. 

They  subsequently  visited  St.  John's  Church,  where 
Patrick  Henry  and  Richard  Henry  Lee  once  declaimed 
in  front  of  what  is  now  the  communion  table.    A  sub- 


I 


to  the 
iven  to 
il  party, 
osing  it 
ag  a.fter 

udou,  in 
m. 

he  eight 
en  being 

stream  of 
e.     They 
)ni  which, 
t  elevated 
wide  and 
irse  of  the 
md  a  com- 
L  and  dale, 

ore  impos- 
portion  of 
commands 

^ke  mirage 
here  all  is 

,oyal  High- 
iGovernor  s 
ends  of  the 

Idroveback 

'  people. 

land  several 

[tery,  a  mile 

led  over  the 

lee. 

lurch,  where 
;e  declaimed 
)le.    A  sub- 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


195 


urban  drive  followed,  and  they  returned  home  to  din- 
ner. 
.  The  Prince  and  suite  drove  to  the  railway  station, 
accompanied  by  the  Mayor,  at  nine  o'clock  on  the  next 
morning,  and  left  by  a  special  train.      * 

Soon  after  the  royal  party  had  taken  leave  of  the 
Mayor  and  committee,  and  the  train  was  set  in  motion, 
a  violent  rain-storm  set  in,  accompanied  with  vivid 
flashes  of  lightning,  which  had  the  effect  of  thinning 
the  number  of  spectators  along  the  road.  By  the  time 
the  train  reached  Petersburg,  the  birth-place  of  Wash- 
ington, sixty  miles  from  Richmond,  the  rain  had  ceased, 
and  the  day  promised  fair  again.  Sixteen  miles  fur- 
ther on  was  the  Acquia  Creek  Terminus,  where  the 
party  alighted,  and,  after  a  short  delay,  embarked  on 
the  steamer  Powhatan,  which  had  been  specially  char- 
tered for  this  service.  Owing  to  several  inlets,  the 
waters  of  the  Potomac  here  assumed  a  lake-like  spread, 
and  this,  with  the  many  indentations  of  the  wooded 
shore,  had  a  highly  picturesque  eflfect,  and  the  eye  lin- 
gered long  in  contemplation  of  its  beauty. 

On  went  the  steamer,  an  Irishman  on  the  wharf  ex- 
claiming to  the  Prince  as  she  started,  "  May  luck  go 
wid  you.  And,  bedad,  I  only  wish  I'd  an  ould  shoe 
to  fling  afther  yez,  for  its  not  the  likes  of  yez  as  come 
here  every  day." 

A  glimpse  of  the  house  at  Mount  Yernon,  almost 
embowered  in  foliage,  was  succeeded  by  a  full  view 
of  Fort  Washington. 

The  special  train  which  conveyed  the  party  from 
Washington  to  Baltimore,  arrived  at  the  station  short- 
ly after  eight  o'clock.  They  were  met  by  the  Mayor 
and  some  of  the  committee,  who  accompanied  them  to 
the  Gilmor  House,  under  an  escort  of  the  City  Guard 
and  Independent  Grays,  the  bands  of  which  executed 
some  spirited  music  by  the  way,  commencing  with 
"  God  save  the  Queen." 

A  large  concourse  had  assembled  at  the  station,  and 


: 


« 


St.  ? ' 


196 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


there  was  much  enthusiastic  shouting.    Thousands 
followed  the  procession  to  the  hotel,  where  another 
great  crowd  had  been  long  in  waiting. 
Dinner  followed,  then  a  serenade  and  sleep. 


■1:! 


CHAPTER  XXIII>  ^./ 

.'  '    '  ■  *  i'  ''->''■■     • 

The  Departure  from  Baltimore,  and  Arrival  at  Philadelphia — Enthu- 
Biasm  of  the  People— Quarters  of  the  Prince  at  the  Continental — 
He  occupies  the  same  Rooms  as  did  the  Japanese  Princes — Inci- 
dents, etc.        .  ,.  .  , 

Shortly  before  eleven,  His  Royal  Highness  and 
party  left  the  hotel  in  open  carriages,  accompanied  by 
the  Mayor,  and  enjoyed  a  pleasant  drive  on  their  way 
to  the  railway  station.  Among  the  objects  of  interest 
they  passed  were  the  two  hundred  feet  Doric  column 
of  the  Washington  Monument,  on  Mount  Vernon  place, 
and  the  marble  column  of  the  Battle  Monument,  in 
memory  of  those  who  fell  while  defending  the  city  in 
1814. 

A  fragment  of  the  great  crowd  that  had  gathered  in 
front  of  the  hotel,  ran  after  the  carriages  for  a  consid- 
erable distance.  Passers-by  halted,  and  so  lined  the 
streets  as  the  carriages  were  seen  approaching,  and 
the  curiosity  of  the  people  was  only  equaled  by  their 
evident  respect. 

On  reaching  the  railway  station,  where  several  thou- 
sands had  assembled  to  see  the  party  step  from  their 
carriages — the  general  public  being  debarred  admis- 
sion inside — His  Royal  Highness  was  received  by  a 
guard  of  honor  of  the  Independent  Grays,  the  band 
of  which  struck  up  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  with  much 
spirit. 


J- 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


197 


iisands 
notlier 


i— Entha- 
tiaental — 
CCS — Inci- 


less  and 
anied  by  . 
heir  way 
r  interest 
J  column 
on  place, 
iinent,  in 
le  city  in 

,tlieredin 
a  consid- 

lined  the 
ling,  and 
by  their 

leral  thou- 
trom  their 
jd  admis- 
|ived  by  a 
the  band 
rith  much 


The  Prince  and  noblemen  and  gentlemen  of  the  suite, 
having  taken  a  kind  leave  of  the  Mayor  and  members 
of  the  committee,  to  whom  they  expressed  tlie  pleasure 
their  visit  to  Baltimore  had  afforded  thom,  entered  the 
royal  car,  which,  preceded  by  one  containing  the  at- 
tendants, moved  away  towards  the  Quaker  City,  in 
the  midst  of  enthusiastic  cheering  from  those  on  the 
platform.  The  numbers  gathered  at  the  wayside  sta- 
tions were  few,  compared  with  other  places  I  could 
name,  and  even  in  Philadelphia  itself  the  popular 
demonstration  was  slight ;  but  this  was  all  the  more 
agreeable  to  His  Royal  Highness.  The  Susquehanna 
River,  which  was  crossed  on  the  usual  ferry  steamer, 
revived  recollections  of  Harrisburg  where  it  was  first 
sighted.  The  weather  was  fine,  and  the  journey  de- 
void of  more  than  ordinary  incident. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  special  train  at  the  station, 
soon  after  four  o'clock,  the  Prince  was  met  by  the 
Mayor,  who  welcomed  him  to  the  city  in  a  few  words. 
A'he  members  of  the  suite  were  severally  introduced 
after  this,  when  the  Mayor  conducted  His  Royal  High- 
ness to  one  of  the  carriages  in  waiting,  and  taking  his 
seat  beside  him,  with  Lord  Lyons  and  the  Duke  of 
Newcastle  opposite,  the  party  drove  directly  to  the 
Continental  Hotel.  l- 

All  was  quiet  till  the  arrival  at  the  hotel,  where  a 
large  crowd  had  collected.  Owing,  however,  to  the 
royal  carriage  having  been  driven  to  the  Ninth  Street 
entrance,  instead  of  the  private  one  on  Chestnut  Street, 
as  was  expected,  very  few  became  aware  of  its  arrival 
till  the  occupants  had  entered  the  house. 

There  was  a  general  feeling  of  disappointment  after 
this,  and  the  multitude  remained  for  hours  gazing  up- 
wards towards  the  windows  of  the  apartments  occu- 
pied by  the  distinguished  travelers. 

These  were  the  same  that  were  devoted  to  the  use  of 
the  Japanese  Ambassadors.  The  Prince's  bedroom 
was  the  one  in  which  that  bamboo-complexioned  indi- 


■f-n;.;?i 


.!a; 


'■■.'■.!-  •', 


198 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J  OR, 


vidua!,  Simmie  Boojzen  No-Kami,  reclined  his  weary 
limbs,  and  the  smallest  and  plainest  of  the  entire  suit. 

Those  who  suppose  that  His  Royal  Highness  and 
suite  dressed  for  dinner  every  day  are  mistaken. 
There  was  little  ceremony  observed  in  this  respect, 
and  the  only  peculiarity  about  the  royal  dining  and 
sitting  rooms  was  in  the  long,  red,  white,  and  blue  wax 
candles  which  were  invariably  to  be  seen  burning  on 
the  tables  during  the  hours  of  gaslight. 

The  chief  event  of  the  next  morning  was  a  drive, 
and  this  proved  to  be  a  very  long  one. 

Mayor  Henry  accompanied  the  party,  and  visit 
number  one  was  paid  to  Girard  College,  where  a  large 
crowd  had  collected,  and  they  were  received  by  the 
President  and  the  Directors.  The  schools  were  in 
session,  and  the  scholars  hard  at  work,  as  at  the  time 
of  the  visit  of  the  Japanese.  But  the  boys  and  girls 
did  not  lose  the  opportunity  of  enjoying  a  good  look 
at  the  illustrious  visitors,  and  particularly  one  of  them, 
as  they  passed  through.  • 

The  Prince  smiled  and  displayed  his  usual  affability, 
■»'4iile  to  several  he  addressed  a  few  words  of  congrat- 
ulation. From  the  school-rooms  they  were  conducted 
to  the  front  of  the  President's  house,  where  that  esti- 
mable functionary  made  the  best  of  the  occasion  by  pre- 
senting some  horse-chestnuts  to  His  Royal  Highness 
and  asking  him  to  plant  them  ;  "  for,"  said  he,  "  a  tree 
so  grown  may  serve  to  tell  the  recipients  of  the  bounty 
of  Girard  of  your  visit." 

The  future  King  of  England  complied  accordingly, 
with  the  assistance  of  a  gardener,  who,  as  it  happened, 
marched  in  the  procession  in  London  in  honor  of  the 
coronation  of  Queen  Victoria.  This  was  told  to  the 
Prince,  who  crammed  it  into  his  mental  bread-basket, 
along  with  many  other  similar  incidents  which  have 
occurred  during  his  present  tour. 

Of  course,  in  visiting  the  College,  they  could  not 
omit  its  roof,  for  from  that  point  of  elevation  a  pano- 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


199 


rama  of  the  city  unfolds  itself,  with  the  Delaware  and 
the  country  around  visible  in  the  distance. 

With  this  end  in  view  they  ascended  a  succession  of 
narrow  and  dimly  lighted  steps,  and  finally  put  their 
heads  out  into  clear  daylight  at  the  top. 

The  roof  was  broad  and  nearly  flat,  and  formed  of 
squares  of  stone  lapped  over  each  other  after  the 
fasliion  of  tiles. 

Unfortunately,  as  the  party  were  admiring  the  view, 
tlie  wind,  which  blew  rather  fresh  at  the  time,  lifted 
the  hat  oflf  the  royal  head  and  sent  it  flying  from  stone 
to  stone,  tiil  it  fell  over  into  the  garden  beneath.  This 
was  awkward,  but  the  young  man  bore  it  calmly,  and 
when  somebody  near  (it  was  one  of  the  committee) 
offered  the  loan  of  his  own  in  its  place,  Albert  Edward 
gratefully  accepted  the  favor,  and  became  the  wearer 
of  the  borrowed  hat  till  iiis  own  was  brought  up  from 
the  regions  below. 

I  consider  this  last  incident  uh  quite  a  feather  in  the 
cap  of  the  eldest  son  of  Mr.  Buchanan's  "  good  friend," 
and  she  is  good,  which  is  more  than  we  can  say  of  all 
crowned  heads. 

From  the  College  the  party  went  to  the  Eastern 
Penitentiary,  a  building  from  which  radiate  seven 
wings,  in  which  the  cells  are  built.  The  central 
building  was  crowded  with  ladies  and  gentlemen,  who 
had  come  in  anticipation  of  the  visit.  Many  of  these 
were  introduced  to  him  by  the  prison  authorities,  upon 
which  the  usual  hands-shaking  took  place. 

The  party  were  afterwards  conducted  through  the 
wards,  during  which  the  Prince  inquired  after  the  cell 
alluded  to  by  Charles  Dickens,  in  his  "American 
Notes,"  as  having  been  entirely  and  beautifully  paint- 
ed by  a  German  sentenced  to  five  years'  imprisonment 
for  larceny.  Dickens  had  an  interview  with  this  man, 
whom  he  described  as  the  most  dejected,  heart-broken, 
wretched  creature  it  would  be  possible  to  imagine. 

Before  leaving  the  institution  the  party  inscribed 


(  ii 


•f 


?' 


200 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  N£W  WORLD  ;   OR, 


their  names  in  the  visitors'  book,  the  Prince  simply- 
signing  Albert  Edward,  in  a  small,  neat  hand.  No 
sooner  had  he  turned  his  back  upon  the  writing  than 
there  was  a  rush  of  ladies,  anxious  to  scan  the  "  dear 
fellow's "  penmanship,  which,  as  a  matter  of  course, 
they  pronounced  exquisite. 

Still  another  corridor  was  visited  after  this,  and 
there  the  Prince  entered  into  conversation  with  one 
Judge  Vondersmith,  who  deported  himself  with  the 
utmost  nonchalance.  He  was  a  miserable-looking 
man,  in  a  tight-fitting  suit  of  blue  woolen,  and  as  he 
stood  in  his  gloomy  square  cell  both  his  position  and 
prospects  afforded  a  striking  contrast  to  the  young 
man  with  whom  he  conversed.  Alas  I  that  society 
should  present  such  inequalities. 

I  saw  one  of  the  unhappy  creatures  there  incarcer- 
ated burst  into  tears  as  the  Prince  took  his  departure. 

The  party  then  went  to  the  Asylum  for  the  Insane, 
where  one  of  the  lunatics  danced  a  jig  in  celebration 
of  so  unusual  an  event.  From  this  to  the  Park  was 
but  a  short  drive,  and  here  the  lovers  of  the  picturesque 
enjoyed  a  refreshing  view,  embracing  a  beautiful  extent 
of  timbered  and  grass  land,  with  the  Schuylkill  River 
winding  in  the  foreground  and  a  glimpse  of  the  city 
and  the  Delaware  to  the  right.  The  weather  was  clear 
and  sunny  to  a  delightful  degree  ;  and  as  the  cortege 
neared  the  main  building  or  hotel  fronting  the  race- 
course, where  a  temporary  platform  had  been  erected 
for  the  accommodation  of  a  more  than  ordinary  number 
of  visitors,  in  consequence  of  this  anticipated  visit,  the 
scene  was  enlivened  by  the  presence  of  thirty  thousand 
people  scattered  about  the  course,  but  more  particu- 
lai'ly  near  the  grand  stand — if  I  may  so  call  it. 

No  sooner  did  the  carriages  appear  in  sight  than  a 
swarm  set  in  around  the  building,  and  the  uproar  of 
voices  filled  the  air.  The  men  were  equallv  eager 
with  the  women  to  get  a  glimpse  of  England  s  hope. 
On  alighting  the  visitors  proceeded,  in  the  midst  of  a 


THE  PRINCE  OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


■201 


warm  display  of  curiosity  on  the  part  of  tlie  collected 
thousands,  to  the  northern  part  of  tlie  building  allud 
ed  to,  where  they  were  gazed  upon  by  a  battery  of 
bright  eyes  from  the  opposite  or  southern  point. 

Albert  Edward's  natural  modesty  recoiled  before  so 
embarrassing  a  spectacle  ;  but,  eventually  recovering, 
His  Royal  Highness  beguiled  the  flying  moments  by 
turning  a  segar  into  smoke.  At  half-past  two,  gener- 
al attention  was  diverted  from  the  contemplation  of 
the  Prince  of  Wales  to  the  races,  which  were  the  os- 
tensible cause  of  so  great  an  assemblage  of  the  brave 
and  fair.  There  was  a  sudden  cry  of  !'  They're  off  I" 
and  then  there  was  one  minute  and  forty-seven  and  a 
quarter  seconds  of  suspense  before  the  race  was  de- 
cided by  "  Rosa  Bonneur"  flying  past  the  winning 
post,  pursued  by  her  competitors  in  a  manner  highly 
suggestive  of  that  celebrated  neck  and  crop  race  once 
run  by  Johnny  Gilpin,  of  Cowper  notoriety.  The 
single  mile  handicup  war.  won,  and  the  winners  were 
left  to  chuckle — for  those  may  laugh  who  win,  says 
the  old  song. 

The  band,  which  had  played  on  the  arrival  of  the 
grandees,  now  struck  up  again,  and  a  transplanted 
Irishman  erclaimed,  as  he  looked  towards  wliat  had 
once  more  become  the  centre  of  attraction  :  "  Arrah, 
bedad,  and  there  he  is,"  which  was  a  fact. 

The  Prince  and  party  then  stepped  down  to  their 
carriages  and  drove  away,  a  few  cheers  following  them 
as  they  went. 

It  was  near  six  o'clock  when  they  returned  to  the 
hotel,  where  a  large  crowd  had*  gathered  to  see  the 
lions,  and  many  saw  and  felt  rewarded  for  their  toil. 

At  five  minutes  past  eight,  His  Royal  Highness,  the 
Duke  of  Newcastle,  the  Earl  St.  Germains,  Lord  Ly- 
ons, General  Bruce,  Major  Teesdale,  Captain  Gray, 
Dr.  Ackland,  Lord  Hinchinbrook,  Hon.  Mr.  Eliot, 
Mr.  Englehart,  Mr.  Warrc,  and  Mr.  Jenncr,  accompa- 
nied by  the  Mayor,  entered  their  boxes  at  the  Academy 


fc  "i 


202 


ROYALTY  IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


of  Music.  These  boxes  were  two  in  number,  and  on 
Opposite  sides  of  the  stage.  Over  the  royal,  or  north  . 
proscenium  balcony  box,  externally,  were  the  arms  of 
the  United  States  and  England,  and  the  stars  and 
stripes  and  union-jack,  tastefully  arranged.  These 
were  the  only  visible  decorations  of  the  royal  box. 
But  those  in  the  boxes  fronting  it,  had  a  glimpse  of  a 
vase  of  flowers  and  a  silver  ice  pitcher,  standing  on  a 
table  with  a  marble  top,  in  a  luxurious  divan  lighted 
with  a  mellow  radiance,  which  allowed  fine  scope  for 
the  imagination. 

As  the  royal  party  took  their  seats,  the  curtain  rose, 
the  band  rose,  the  audience  rose. 

The  house,  lighted  by  the  hundred  jets,  sparkling 
in  the  glassy  chandelier,  had  a  brilliant  appearance, 
BO  also  had  the  stage,  with  its  group  of  theatrical  vil- 
lagers, foremost  among  whom  stood  Patti  and  Formes, 
the  shrill  soprano  of  the  one  breaking  out  with  a  sud- 
den thrill,  to  which  the  deep  bass  of  the  others  was  as 
thunder  to  lightning,  the  silence  of  the  latter  element 
excepted. 

Formes  came  in  at  the  second  part  with  the  verses 
in  honor  of  the  Prince,  composed  for  the  occasion. 

The  others  joined  in  a  grand  chorus,  the  curtain 
dropped,  and  all  sat  down,  while  the  gaze  of  the  as- 
semblage fell  upon  the  royal  box,  the  occupants  of 
which  were  in  plain  evening  dress. 

The  curtain  again  rose,  and  now  upon  the  opening 
scene  of  Flotow's  grand  opera  of  "  Martha." 

In  the  entree  acte — the  interval  between  the  end  of 
"  Martha"  and  the  opening  of  "  La  Traviata" — the 
Prince  and  other  occupants  of  the  royal  box  removed 
to  the  front  seat  of  the  first  tier,  which  had  just  been 
vacated  by  the  Marquis  of  Chandos,  and  friends.  His 
Royal  Highness  beckoned  to  the  others  of  his  party 
in  the  opposite  box,  and  they  joined  him.  The  cur- 
tain rose  on  a  scene  which  rivaled  the  appearance  of 
the  finest  ball-room  of  its  lIzq  in  the  world.    But  what 


! 


THE  PR:NCE   of   wales   in    AMERICA. 


203 


was  the  scene  compared  with  the  actors,  and  one  es- 
pecially, Madame  Pauline  Colson  ?  She  was  bewitch- 
ing, and  to  my  taste,  she  rivaled  Piccolomini.  There 
was  a  voluptuous  grace  about  her  acting,  which  car- 
ried with  it  fascination  ;  there  was  a  melody  in  her 
song  which  was  irresistible  and  carried  away  all  hear- 
ers. Welcome,  Madame  Pauline  Colson !  Violetta  has 
no  choicer  impersonation  than  thou.  Signor  Errani, 
as  Alfredo,  did  well,  and  the  masculine  swell  of  his 
voice  sounded  well  in  response  to  the  warbling  music 
of  Pauline. 

But  what  was  all  this  to  the  scene  itself — the  chis- 
eled arms,  the  beaming  faces,  eyes  included  ;  the  cos- 
tumes, grand  in  the  abstract,  but  faulty  in  detail ;  the 
mass,  the  lights,  the  cause  of  all  this — the  Prince — the 
illuminated  crimson  of  the  proscenium  box  ?  Every- 
body can  imagine  such  a  scene  for  themselves.  There- 
fore, adieu.  All  ended  well,  and  at  the  conclusion  the 
Prince  retired,  well  pleased  with  the  performance. 


ifHl 


V  V 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 


!,4! 


New  York's  Glorious  Welcome  to  the  Prince — A  Million  on  Broad- 
way and  Fifth  Avenue—Splendid  Military  Spectacle— The  Review 
on  the  Battery  and  in  the  Park— Five  Miles  of  Human  Beings — 
Housetops,  Brick  Piles,  Lamp-Posts,  Windows,  Steps,  Awning- 
Posts,  Doorways,  Carriages,  Boxes,  Stages,  Carts,  Iron  Railings, 
and  Trees,  from  the  Battery  to  Madison  Square,  Covered  with  Men, 
Women,  and  Children— The  Diamond  Ball— Grand  Procession  of 
Firemen,  etc.,  etc. 


On  the  morning  following  the  Opera,  His  Royal 
Highness  and  suite  left  Philadelphia  by  a  special  train 
for  Amboy,  where  he  embarked  on  board  the  U.  S, 


W4 


204 


ROYALTY  IN   THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


steamer  Harriet  Lane,  which  the  President  had  dis- 
patched for  the  purpose.  There  he  was  met  by  many 
of  the  New  York  Committee  of  four  hundred  citizens, 
who  accompanied  Inm  to  the  city.  Salvos  of  twenty- 
one  guns  were  fired  from  Fort  Hamilton  and  the  other 
batteries,  as  the  steamer  passed,  and  on  nearing  Castle 
Garden  salutes  were  also  fired  from  the  shipping, 
while  the  cheers  of  tens  of  thousands  swelled  in  a  joy- 
ous chorus  of  welcome,  and  great  was  the  waving  of 
hats,  the  flutter  of  handkerchiefs,  and  the  display  of 
bunting. 

On  stepping  ashore  at  half^past  two.  His  Royal 
Highness  was  received  by  Mayor  Wood,  who  wel- 
comed him  cordially  to  the  commercial  metropolis, 
and  after  a  little  delay,  introduced  him  to  Major  Gen- 
eral Sandford,  commanding  the  First  Division  of  the 
New  York  State  Militia,  who  invited  him  to  review 
the  same,  to  which  the  Prince  assented.  He  shortly 
afterwards  made  his  appearance  on  horseback  in  full 
uniform,  accompanied  by  his  suite  and  the  staff  officers. 
He  was  received  with  all  the  military  honors,  rufilea, 
colors  drooping,  arms  presented,  and  band  playing. 
The  troops  numbered  more  than  six  thousand,  and  pre- 
sented a  splendid  appearance.  The  review  was  made 
by  brigades  numerically  in  succession,  and  as  they 
were  formed  on  different  lines,  the  Prince  had  a  fine 
opportunity  of  watching  their  entire  movements. 

At  the  close  of  the  review  His  Royal  Highness  en- 
tered his  carriage,  which  was  drawn  by  six  horses,  and 
in  company  with  his  suite  and  the  Mayor,  preceded  by 
a  military  column,  was  driven  slowly  towards  the  City 
Hall,  followed  by  the  troops  in  regular  order.  After 
alighting,  they  ascended  a  carpeted  platform,  and  the 
troops  marched  past  in  the  prearranged  order.  All, 
however,  liad  not  passed  at  ten  minutes  past  five,  by 
which  time  it  was  dusk.  It  was,  therefore,  thought 
advisable  to  cry  "  Halt  I"  and  the  carriages  of  the 
royal  party  were  soon  moving  up  Broadway,  the 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


205 


Prince  reviewing  the  troops  formed  in  line  as  he 
passed.  The  acclamations  that,  thenceforward  to  the 
Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  rent  the  air,  as  the  royal  cortege 
passed  mile  after  mile  between  lines  of  human  beings, 
surpassed  every  other  demonstration  that  ever  took 
place  in  America.  No  grander  ovation  to  the  rep- 
resentative of  the  elder  branch  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race, 
was  possible.  Here  the  entente  cordiale  with  EJngland 
was  proclaimed  to  the  skies  by  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  freemen,  who  hailed  the  coming  and  showered  hearty 
blessings  upon  the  head  of  the  son  of  that  peerless 
Queen,  whose  virtues  shed  a  halo  round  the  throne  of 
England,  and  constitute  the  pride  and  joy  of  all  where 
England's  tongue  is  spoken  and  England's  honor  loved 
—of  England  our  mother  country. 

In  moral  significance,  as  well  as  in  the  material  fact, 
the  spectacle  was  one  never  to  be  surpassed,  while  the 
entirely  spontaneous  and  hearty  homage  was  imbued 
with  a  peculiar  interest  from  the  antecedents  i  the 
two  nations. 

It  is  unnecessary  for  me  to  enter  into  the  minutiae  of 
the  day's  proceedings,  after  the  idea  I  have  already 
given  of  the  whole.  But  had  I  the  necessary  space,  I 
might  fill  a  volume  merely  with  descriptions  of  scenes 
en  route,  for  the  mighty  masses  of  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren that  lined  the  way,  and  looked  down  from  the 
housetops,  trees,  and  lamp  posts,  and  wherever  else  the 
human  form  could  cling,  are  still  in  memory  vividly 
before  me,  and  every  detail  of  the  imposing  pageant  I 
can  summon  to  my  recollection. 

To  convey  an  idea  of  the  crowd,  which,  next  to  the 
Prince,  was  the  great  curiosity  of  the  day,  is  difficult. 
It  was  huge,  immense,  enormous,  exaggerated,  stupend- 
ous, infinite,  and  indefinite.  It  was  a  multitude  count- 
less as  the  leaves  of  the  forest — one  of  those  crushes 
which  are  perfectly  bewildering  to  the  senses.  Below, 
a  stratum  of  humanity  was  so  wedged  in  and  Macadam- 
ized together  that  to  move  one  individual  was  to  stir 


m 

:  f !    v 


i::l 


!  Ml 


u'i 


206 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  I  OB, 


the  whole  mass  ;  while  above,  every  window-sill  was  a 
rough  frame,  within  which  the  faces  of  beautiful  women 
and  smiling  children  made  up  an  attractive  picture. 
Every  opening,  every  story,  every  roof,  was  a  parapet, 
from  which  constantly  played  a  battery  of  bright  eyes. 
Every  available  place  was  occupied,  and  where  circum- 
stances naturally  failed  to  provide  accommodations, 
ingenuity  brought  into  requisition  boxes,  benches, 
chairs,  tables,  and  any  other  appliance  that  would  effect 
the  desired  object. 

Those  who  could  not  enjoy  the  privileges  of  a  window 
were  content  to  take  to  the  street,  and  the  quantity  of 
well-dressed  ladies  and  children,  mixed  in  with  the 
not  over  fragrant  crowd  of  unscoured  publicans  and 
sinners,  was  painfully  amazing  to  behold.  Once  in,  it 
was  almost  impossible  to  get  out,  and  the  poor  females 
were  compelled  to  endure  the  pains  of  purgatory  to 
gratify  the  curiosity  they  couldn't  help.  Even  the  side 
streets  were  made  available,  and  vehicles  of  various 
kinds  were  pressed  into  service  and  speedily  crowned 
with  an  array  of  human  beings.  To  the  boys  the  lamp- 
posts and  iron  railings  were  a  godsend ;  and  though 
now  and  then  by  looking  up,  the  spectator  might  see 
tattered  integuments  fluttering  in  the  breeze  from 
points  of  the  human  corporosity,  little  attention  was 
paid  to  these  freaks  of  nature  and  accident.  On  the 
whole  the  crowd  was  altogether  unobjectionable,  except 
to  its  individual  components.  Occasionally  there  would 
be  an  eruption  of  highly  oxygenated  adjectives  that 
would  make  a  man's  ears  tingle  with  holy  horror,  or 
sometimes  some  quick  temper  would  strike  out  from 
the  shoulder,  and  be  quietly  removed  from  the  scene 
of  action  by  gentlemen  in  blue  coats ;  but,  with  these 
exceptions,  everything  was  harmonious,  melodious,  and 
good. 

At  one  point  a  beautiful  bouquet  was  thrown  into 
the  Prince  s  carriage,  accompanied  by  the  following 
lines :  : 


WvL 
I'll 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA.  207 

V  Accept,  dea.  Prince,  this  humble  gift, 
-      .  \,  With  every  kind  and  loyal  prayer ; 

y  May  Heaven  your  Highness  ever  lift 
■        •  '   •-  Above  each  sad  and  worldly  care.     '  . 

One  prayer  among  the  rest  I  send ;  , 

Maternal  love  thus  makes  me  sing, 
'   "  Though  I  would  not  yourself  oflfend : 

May  it  be  long  ere  you  are  King.         -    ..-..-■ 

iL  '  .  ■  r  ■  ,- '  •      1 

As  soon  as  the  royal  cortege  passed  the  regiment  in 
review,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  hour,  it  would  im- 
mediately defile  and  proceed  to  the  place  of  dismissal, 
so  that  by  the  time  the  Prince  reached  the  head  of  the 
line  the  corps  at  the  opposite  end  had  departed  for 
their  respective  armories. 

Long  before  the  cortege  reached  the  hotel,  it  had 
become  so  dark  that  nothing  more  than  a  slim  figure 
in  military  uniform  could  be  seen  of  the  Prince  by  the 
immense  multitude  that  had  been  waiting  in  eager  ex- 
pectation of  his  coming  for  several  hours.  This  was 
a  cause  of  great  disappointment  to  tens  of  thousands, 
and  many  of  the  female  portion  burst  into  tears  when 
they  found  he  had  gone  by  without  their  having  seen 
him. 

The  concourse  in  front  of  the  hotel  had,  however,  a 
glimpse  of  him  as  he  appeared  on  the  balcony  for  a 
few  moments  soon  after  his  arrival,  in  acknowledg- 
ment of  the  paeans  of  welcome  which  resounded  on  all 
sides. 

On  the  following  morning,  His  Royal  Higliness 
drove  to  the  University,  where  he  was  received  by  the 
principals,  after  which  the  Chancellor  presented  an 
address  on  behalf  of  the  council.  He  next  visited  the 
Astor  Library,  then  the  Cooper  Institute,  then  the 
New  York  Free  Academy,  at  each  of  which  places  he 
was  received  with  respectful  formality.  v 

A  pleasant  drive  to  the  Central  Park  followed  next, 
where  the  Commissioners  did  the  honors  by  conduct- 
ing the  party  over  some  of  the  most  favored  resorts. 


IS;-: 


t 


\:, 


208 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J  OR, 


Before  leaving,  the  Prince,  at  the  suggestion  of  his 
guides,  planted  a  sapling  of  oak  and  another  of  elm, 
as  emblematical  of  the  two  nations.  From  the  park 
the  drive  was  continued  to  the  rural  cottage  of  His 
Honor  Mayor  Wood,  where  a  grand  dejeuner  was 
served,  of  which  the  royal  party  partook,  in  company 
with  a  number  of  leading  citizens.  The  Institution 
for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  was  visited  after  this,  and 
here  the  party  were  greatly  interested  by  the  profi- 
ciency displayed  by  the  mutes  in  composition  on  the 
various  subjects  suggested  to  them,  as  also  by  a  young 
lady,  who  read  a  few  verses  in  welcome  of  the  Prince 
by  the  usual  signs. 

The  ball  given  by  the  committee  of  four  hundred 
citizens  was  the  great  event  of  the  evening.  The 
tickets  not  being  purchasable,  the  company  was  limit- 
ed to  the  committee  and  their  immediate  friends. 
This  was  a  mistake.  In  a  democratic  country  like 
this,  an  exclusive  gathering  of  the  kind  ought  not  to 
have  been  tolerated.  A  high  price  upon  the  tickets, 
and  stringent  rules  as  to  costume,  would  have  insured, 
not  only  as  select  a  company  as  were  there  present, 
but  an  assembly  less  composed  of  old  fogies.  If  the 
moneyed  and  venerable  Cooperites  who  had  the  man- 
agement of  tlie  affair,  and  who  knew  as  much  about 
dancing  as  the  celebrated  pig  in  the  hornpipe,  wished 
to  be  exceedingly  aristocratic,  why  did  they  not  con- 
tent themselves  with  the  selection  of  "  ladies  patron- 
esses,'' through  whose  voucher  tickets  only  could  be 
obtained  ?  If  this  plan  is  considered  perfectly  satis- 
factory by  the  nobility  of  an  old  monarchical  country 
like  England,  and  in  a  great  city  like  London,  it  ought 
to  have  satisfied  the  New  York  committee  of  four  hund- 
red. As  it  was,  New  York  did  not  give  the  Prince 
a  ball,  but  a  certain  number  of  gentlemen,  who  sub- 
scribed a  certain  amount  of  money  with  which  to  do 
the  thing  handsomely.  It  was  a  pity,  after  all  their 
pains,  that  the  floor  over  the  parquette  should  have 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


209 


fallen  in  just  as  the  dancing  was  about  to  commence. 
Either  the  committee  or  the  carpenters  had  made  a 
bad  job  of  it  there*.  This  and  the  fall  from  the  front 
tier  to  the  floor  of  two  large  flower  vases  were  the 
mishaps  of  the  night.  The  other  drawbacks  were  the 
consequent  postponement  of  dancing  till  the  carpenters 
had  propped  up  the  floor,  the  great  crush  of  spectators 
around  the  royal  party  after  the  dancing  commenced, 
and  the  comparative  insignificance  of  the  number  that 
danced  at  all. 

The  ball,  however,  had  its  bright  side,  as  everything 
must  have,  especially  when  it  belongs  to  New  York. 
The  dresses  and  toilettes  of  the  ladies  could  not  have 
been  eclipsed  in  magnificence  and  elegance  by  any  in 
the  world,  while  for  beauty  and  the  display  of  dia- 
monds, where  could  their  like  be  met  ?  I  know,  from 
long  travel  and  experience,  that  the  women  of  the 
United  States,  and  especially  of  the  Empire  City,  are 
matchless  in  their  grace  and  chiseled  beauty,  while 
their  exquisite  taste  in  matters  of  costume  is  enough  to 
win  over  those  who  have  to  pay  their  bills  into  a  tacit 
consent  to  endless  extravagance. 

Three  thousand  of  the  elite  were  present,  and  the 
Academy  of  Music,  in  which  the  ball  was  given,  wore 
a  most  brilliant  appearance. 

A  shout  outside,  followed  by  repeated  cheers,  an- 
nounced the  arrival  of  the  Prince,  and  almost  instant- 
ly the  royal  party,  dressed  in  full  evening  costume, 
entered  the  room  by  a  side  door.  There  was  no  cheer- 
ing, but  a  simultaneous  motion  of  the  crowd  evinced 
the  anxiety  of  the  company  to  see  their  distinguished 
guests.  There  was  no  rush  forward.  A  few  ladies 
stepped  gracefully  upon  the  chairs  near  them  to  over- 
look the  throng,  but  the  rest  of  the  company  retained 
their  positions  with  well-bred  composure,  the  specta- 
tors in  the  upper  tiers  rising,  not  from  curiosity,  but 
in  lionor  of  the  Prince.  The  royal  party  remained 
standing  before  the  sofas  at  the  extremity  of  the  stage, 


m 


l^. 


•^ 


-.;  -31 

■xl 


210 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


\ 


beneath  the  pavilion,  and  as  soon  as  they  had  taken 
their  positions,  the  bands  struck  up  the  stately  anthem, 
"  God  save  the  Queen,"  following  it  by  the  more  tri- 
umphant strains  of  "  Hail  Columbia."  The  first  effect 
of  the  scene  upon  the  senses  was  so  dazzling  as  to  ren- 
der it  impossible  to  separate  any  distinct  or  individual 
parts.  Flowers  reposing  in  folds  of  fleecy  lace,  lace 
rising  and  falling  in  rich  foam-like  waves,  jewels  pal- 
ing before  the  fire  of  brityht  eyes,  or  flashing  back  ra- 
diantly from  velvet  backgrounds  ;  gold  and  silver 
glittering  in  the  transparent  tarlatane  fabrics  so  thick- 
ly embroidered  with  the  same  precious  substance  that 
they  looked  like  cloth  of  gold ;  silver  brocade,  fair 
and  shining,  looking  kindly  on  the  stiff  and  stately 
moire ;  flowers,  ribbons,  jewels,  feathers,  and  the  odor 
of  a  thousand  parterres,  all  mingling  with  the  lights, 
the  music  and  the  graceful  moving  throng. 

While  the  royal  party  were  observing  the  company 
and  the  decorations  of  the  room,  a  sudden  rustle  and 
movement  of  the  crowd  backwards  announced  that 
some  accident  was  about  to  happen,  and  in  a  moment 
after  one  of  the  flower  vases  upon  the  front  tier  fell 
with  a  great  crash  to  the  floor,  scattering  its  roses  up- 
on the  people  standing  by,  but  fortunately  injuring  no 
one.  There  was  a  moment's  confusion,  and  then  the 
company,  prudently  returning  from  the  neighborhood 
of  the  vases,  remained  silent,  while  the  committee  pre- 
sented the  Prince  with  an  order  of  dancing. 

Scarcely  had  the  Prince  taken  his  card  when  another 
flower  vase  fell,  and  the  moment  afterwards  a  portion 
of  the  dancing  floor  gave  way  with  a  great  crash,  for- 
tunately injuring  no  one,  however.  As  the  crowd  re- 
tired, frightened,  to  various  parts  of  the  floor,  it  gave 
way  beneath  them.  This  was  three  times  repeated, 
two  persons  being  precipitated  to  the  stage  beneath, 
but  not  being  injured.  The  floor  rather  sank  than  fell, 
the  props  beneath  it  being  insufficient  to  sustain  the 
weight  of  the  throng. 


THE  PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


211 


For  some  moments  the  greatest  confusion  ensued  ; 
many  determined  to  leave,  and  a  rush  was  made  for 
the  door,  but  the  real  nature  of  the  accident  being  dis- 
covered, the  company  resumed  its  composure.  The 
Prince  was  immediately  conducted  into  the  supper 
room,  whither  a  great  number  of  the  ladies  and  gentle- 
men followed  him.  The  remainder  eitlier  promenaded, 
took  seats  in  the  parquette,  or  gathered  around  the 
pit,  about  twenty  feet  square,  which  showed  the  ex- 
tent of  the  damage.  The  promenade  and  the  music 
diverted  the  attention  of  the  company,  who  were  kept 
off  the  dancing  floor  as  much  as  possible  ;  the  police 
instantly  surrounded  the  opening  with  a  rope,  which 
they  guarded  so  that  no  one  should  pass.  As  many  car- 
penters as  could  be  crowded  into  the  hole  immediately 
set  to  work  to  put  up  new  supports,  and  those  who 
left  in  the  first  fright  and  confusion,  either  returned  or 
fctopped  at  the  door,  and  gradually  recovering  their 
good  humor,  the  company  seemed  to  remember  the 
proverb,  wittily  quoted  by  one  of  the  fairest  ladies 
present,.:;,  ^v,  ■-..,-  -^.'.v^'    --}-'"y-'^:  ■■'*^    ;     ••'.■"    '- 

•         "  A  bad  begianing  has  a  good  ending," 

and  that  Shaksperean  adage  retorted  by  a  rival  wit 
and  beauty, 

* 

"  All's  well  that  ends  well."        "       •    ' 

And  so  passed  the  time  during  which  the  repairs  were 
progressing,  in  conversation,  promenading  and  flirta- 
tions, and  patiently  awaited  the  time  when  dancing 
should  begin.  Only  the  patience  and  good  humor  of 
the  company  prevented  this  accident  causing  this  grand 
ball,  so  anxiously  expected,  and  so  splendidly  prepar- 
ed, from  being  a  complete  ^cwco. 

The  floral  display  at  the  Academy  was  truly  magnifi- 
cent. Countless  flower-pots  with  their  odorous  freight, 
in  endless  variety,  filled  up  a  great  part  of  the  space 
known  as  the  dress  circle.    There  was  a  cosmopolitan 


1  < 


■i  i 


u 


212 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


gathering  of  tlic  brightest  and  most  beautiful  from  all 
quarters  of  the  globe.  There  was  no  corner  of  the 
earth — unless  it  be  the  frozen  regions  of  the  north — 
that  had  not  its  representative  in  the  clusters  that 
slione  from  the  eighty  or  one  hundred  large,  handsome 
vases  which  ornamented  the  proscenium,  independently 
of  the  myriad  of  flower-pots  of  a  more  homely  kind. 
The  Continent  liad  its  representatives  in  the  floral 
conclave ;  but  the  far  greater  number  were  the  rich 
exotics  of  a  more  southern  clime.  There  were  the 
beautiful  Delphinum  Formosum,  the  Gladiolus  and  the 
Salvia  Splendens,  side  by  side  with  the  Bignonia  from 
the  antipodes  and  the  Astra  Fortuni  from  the  Hima- 
layas ;  while,  overtopping  all,  with  its  odd-looking 
red  and  yellow  flower,  nodded  the  sugar-loaf  head  of 
the  Fritoma  Uvaria  from  the  far  and  dusky  regions 
of  Southern  Africa.  Every  step,  every  glance,  brought 
some  new  and  strange  variety  to  the  eye.  Bignonias 
were  in  great  and  pleasing  variety,  mingled  with  speci- 
mens of  the  Antirrhinum  Majus,  or  Snapdragon,  with 
its  snout-like,  fragrant  blossom ;  the  Granadilla,  or 
Passion  Flower  of  the  West  Indies,  starry  and  violet 
rayed,  and  the  sweet  Alyssum  Maritimum  of  Old  En- 
gland. The  number  and  variety  of  Dahlias  were  posi- 
tively immense.  Their  native  soil  of  Mexico  never 
grew  such  Dahlias  as  those  which  lent  their  magnificent 
size  and  every  charm  of  rich  and  gaudy  color  to  the 
scene,  from  the  dee^  crimson,  beside  which  the  beau- 
tiful Erithrina,  or  Coral- tree,  was  pale,  to  the  faintest 
yellow  that  tlie  variegated  little  Phlox  of  North 
America  could  ever  possibly  manage  to  get  up. 
Tuberoses  were  also  in  great  abundance — all  alike  in 
their  exquisite  fragrance  and  spotless  white.  The  vast 
building  was  filled  with  the  odor  of  this  motley  multi- 
tude of  flowers. 

But  nothing  could  surpass  the  bouquets  which  the 
New  York  florists  got  up  for  the  ladies  who  were  to 
attend  the  ball.    The  majority  were  but  of  few  colors  ; 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


213 


all,  or  nearly  all,  with  a  large  Camelia  in  the  centre, 
which  is  a  rare  flower  at  this  season  ;  then  a  few 
Tuberoses,  fringed  by  some  scarlet  flower,  or  the 
feathery,  violet  Eupatorium  ;  then,  perhaps,  a  circle 
of  white  Rose-buds,  and  the  whole  bound  in  a  frame 
of  evergreens,  finishing  with  a  deep  fringe  of  white 
silk.  Some  had  the  Prince's  crest  and  others  the 
letters  A.  E.  worked  in  flowers.  There  was  nothing 
gaudy  or  showy  about  them  ;  aU  were  simple,  tliough, 
of  course,  diifering  in  design  one  from  the  other  ;  and 
it  was  this  simplicity  of  arrangement  that  made  the 
exquisite  elegance  of  these  bouquets  so  apparent. 

Now  "  Music  arose  with  its  voluptuous  swell,  and 
eyes  looked  love  to  eyes  which  spake  again,"  while 

-Away,  like  children  delighted, 


All  things  forgotten  beside,  they  gave  themselves,  to  the  maddening 
Whirl  of  the  dizzy  dance,  as  it  swept  and  swayed  to  the  music, 
Dreamlike,  with  beaming  eyes  and  the  rush  of  fluttering  garments. 


»r 


It  must  have  been  very  delightful  to  you,  Miss 
Mason,  to  dance  the  first  waltz  with  the  Prince  ;  and 
oh  I  Miss  Augusta  Jay,  and  Miss  Fish,  and  Miss  Helen 
Russell,  and  Miss  Van  Buren,  how  divine  you  must 
have  felt  when  the  royal  sleeve  encircled  your  slender 
forms.    Happy  maidens !    Thrice  happy  Prince  I 

On  the  next  day  His  Royal  Highness  visited  Gen- 
eral Scott  at  his  residence,  after  which  he  drove  to 
Brady's  Photographic  Gallery,  Barnum's  Museum,  and 
other  places. 

In  the  evening  there  was  a  grand  torch-light  pro- 
cession of  the  firemen,  wiio  mustered  five  thousand 
strong.  The  engines  and  other  apparatus  were  beau- 
tifully decorated,  and  the  sight  was  the  finest  of  the 
kind  ever  witnessed.  The  Prince  and  suite  stood  on 
the  balcony  of  the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel  while  it  filed 
past.  Hour  after  hour,  mile  after  mile,  the  gorgeous 
phalanx  wound  its  slow  length  along,  suffusing  the  sky 
with  the  lurid  glare  of  rockets,  snakes,  Prince's  plumes, 


H 


214 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD;   OR, 


and  much  beside,  and  dazzling  the  eyes  of  the  half  mil- 
lion that  beheld  it  with  the  blaze  of  Drummond  lights, 
here  and  there  softened  by  the  mellow  tints  of  varie- 
gated lanterns.  The  crowd  that  assembled  to  wit- 
ness this  glitter  and  glory  of  the  night,  was  only 
second  to  the  crowd  that  thronged  the  streets  on  the 
day  of  the  landing.  Madison  Square  disclosed  a  sea 
of  human  heads,  lighted  by  the  fitful  gleam  of  fire- 
works, and  from  the  fi^t  appearance  till  the  departure 
of  the  royal  party,  cheers  floated  with  wave-like  undu- 
lations of  sound  on  the  cool  night  air. 

On  Sunday  morning  His  Royal  Highness  attended 
Trinity  Church,  and  on  the  following  one  took  his  de- 
parture by  the  Harriet  Lane  for  West  Point,  with  an 
affectionate  "godspeed"  from  the  whole  population. 


K\ 


■«■  1 


A.  , 


CHAPTER  XXV.     ./  V  / 

The  Run  up  the  River  to  Bee  the  Prince — The  Trip  of  the  Harriet 
Lane— Excitement  of  the  Ladies— The  Review  at  West  Point. 

I  WAS  one  of  the  crowd  that  traveled  by  the  eleven 
o'clock  train  that  morning  from  New  York  to  Garri- 
son's, the  station  opposite  West  Point.  We  passed 
the  Harriet  Lane,  sailing  against  a  sharp,  fresh  breeze, 
and  all  eyes  were  directed  towards  her  from  the  cars. 

Onward,  beneath  the  Palisades,  through  the  waters 
of  the  shining  river,  the  dark  and  tiny  form  of  the 
steamer  glided  swiftly  on  its  way. 

No  sooner  had  the  train  come  to  a  full  stop  at  Gar- 
rison's than  there  was  a  grand  rush  of  a  thousand  or 
two  towards  the  ferry  steamer.  The  race  was  to  the 
Bwift,  and  two  or  three  ladies,  clasping  the  hands  of 
their  worse  halves,  fell,  and,  I  grieve  to  say,  were 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


215 


made  anything  but  happy  in  consequence,  besides  in- 
curring the  loss  of  passage  by  the  boat,  wLich  only 
saved  itself  from  sinking  by  moving  away  from  the 
wharf  when  the  decks  had  been  covered  with  a  layer 
of  humanity  one  deep.  She  had  to  return  for  the  bal- 
ance. 

I  have,  fortunately,  long  legs  and  ^a  disposition  to 
run  when  there  is  no  other  enemy  than  time  present, 
so  I  flew  with  the  wind,  and  succeeded  in  getting  a 
place  second  to  none,  although,  in  point  of  space  oc- 
cupied, General  Scott,  who  stood  beside,  had  some- 
what the  advantage,  for  among  dwarfs  he  would  be  a 
pyramid,  and  we  would  have  to  travel  to  Patagonia  to 
see  his  equal,  odd  giants  excepted. 

We  landed  at  the  wooden  slip,  or  pier,  under  the 
beautiful  cliflFs  of  the  beautiful  river,  at  about  two 
o'clock,  and  the  view  that  here  unfolded  itself  was 
without  parallel  in  the  history  of  the  spot. 

Men,  women,  and  children  diversified  the  cliff-sides 
by  sitting  or  standing  wherever  there  was  foothold  in 
cavities  or  on  ledges,  while  a  double  line  of  people 
had  formed  all  the  way  down  the  steep  path,  from  the 
road  fronting  the  hospital  to  the  water-side,  up  which 
the  Prince  and  suite  were  to  ride  on  those  steeds 
which  were  already  impatiently  pa\ving  the  ground 
near  the  pier. 

'  Beyond,  on  the  hill-summit,  in  the  roadway,  on  the 
tops  of  hotel  omnibuses,  and  elsewhere,  thousands  were 
gathered  for  the  purpose  of  witnessing  what  they 
could  of  the  landing  and  tue  horsemen  as  they  passed 
by. 

Major  Delafield  and  his  lieutenants  were  on  horse- 
back at  the  river-side,  when,  at  a  quarter  to  three,  the 
Harriet  Lane  arrived.  The  royal  party  disembarked, 
and  boom  went  the  first  of  the  thirty-three  guns  which 
constitute  a  national  salrte. 

-*  Excitement  now  quickened,  and  women's  hearts — 
aye,  and  men's,  ^oo — beat  faster  at  the  thought  of  seeing 


^  ■ 


216 


ROYALTY  m  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


II 


the  heir  apparent  to  the  throne  of  England,  as  much 
for  his  mother's  sake  as  his  own. 

"  Here  he  comes  I  Here  he  comes  I"  was  the  watch- 
word, as  he  appeared  in  sight,  riding  in  plain  costume 
abreast  of  the  military  figure  of  the  commandant  of 
the  post,  Major  Delafield,  the  suite,  and  American  staff 
oflBcers  following  in  the  rear,  and  the  blue  and  gold 
uniforms  of  the  latter  contrasting  with  the  mixed 
civilian  dress  of  the  visitors. 

Such  a  crowd  of  people  was  never  seen  in  the  quiet 
and  picturesque  precincts  of  West  Point  before,  nor 
did  a  brighter  day  ever  lend  lustre  to  old  October,  and 
make  the  forest  gorgeous  with  the  rainbow  glories  of 
decay.  It  was  cold,  but  invigorating,  and  there  was 
an  elasticity  in  the  atmosphere  highly  conducive  to  en- 
joyment, so  the  spirits  of  the  twenty  thousand  ran  high 
and  all  went  merry. 

There  was  an  escort  of  dragoons  in  honor  of  His 
Royal  Highness,  which,  when  he  had  entered  the  house 
of  the  commandant  of  the  post,  to  which  he  rode  di- 
rect, drew  up  in  single  line,  facing  the  gateway.    '■■  •'- 

Here  a  presentation  of  the  officers  of  the  staff  and 
others  took  place  by  the  Major,  the  Prince  shaking 
hands  after  the  American  fashion  with  each. 

The  twenty  thousand,  meanwhile,  loitered  in  front, 
where  the  review-ground  afforded  them  plenty  of  room 
for  moving  about,  if  their  curiosity  did  not  impel  them 
to  struggle  for  a  front  place  among  the  multitude. 

After  this,  which  lasted  nearly  an  hour,  came  the  re- 
view, the  cadets,  nearly  three  hundred  in  number,  hav- 
ing taken  up  position  in  a  double  line  in  the  centre  of 
the  plateau,  with  the  engineers  and  pieces  of  artillery  a 
hundred  yards  in  the  background,  and  the  dragoons, 
an  insigrxificant  force,  attending  to  police  duties  about 
the  field.  Some  of  these  latter  were  mounted,  and 
others  afoot,  but  they  were  for  the  most  part  equally 
impudent  in  enforcing  order.  They  laughed  and  jested 
with  the  crowd,  and  curveted  their  horses  about  in 


n 


THE   PRINCE  OP  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


217 


the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  spectators'  toes,  for  the 
pleasure  of  seeing  the  multitude  sway  backward. 

The  plateau,  surrounded  by  a  cordon  of  swelling 
hills,  with  here  and  there  a  tower,  a  spire,  and  a  dome, 
looked  splendid  in  the  sunlight,  although  a  bleak  wind 
swept  across  the  expanse,  and  made  every  one  long  for 
an  overcoat  if  they  hadn't  one,  and  button  up  closely 
if  they  had. 

The  number  of  troops  on  the  ground  was  little  more 
than  three  hundred  and  fifty,  and  the  review  of  these 
commenced  by  the  Prince  walking  side  by  side  with 
Major  Delafield  down  the  front  line  and  up  the  second. 
The  suite  and  staff  ofl&cers  followed.  This  over,  the 
royal  party  returned  to  the  front  rank  of  the  field,  and 
took  up  a  standing  position.  The  word  of  command 
was  then  given,  and  the  band  of  cadets  struck  up  slow 
time,  when  the  march,  in  which  the  sappers,  with  their 
artillery,  took  part,  was  taken  up  once  round.  The 
next  round  was  to  quick  time,  and  the  third  round  to 
double  quick  time.  This  was  tedious,  but  well  exe- 
cuted in  a  military  point  of  view. 

The  party  then  re-entered  the  house  and  partook  of 
luncheon.  -  .     i 

I  have  often  found,  and  sometimes  to  my  cost,  that 
darkeys,  and  especially  darkey  hotel-waiters,  entertain 
large  expectations.  This  was  conspicuously  the  case 
at  Cozzens'  Hotel,  West  Point,  when,  at  half-past  five, 
after  the  review  His  Royal  Highness  rode  up  to  the 
door  and  dismounted.  Those  of  the  ebony  complexion 
were  on  the  alert,  in  full  anticipation  of  holding  my 
lord's  horse  and  wisping  my  lord's  coat,  and  waiting 
upon  him  at  dinner,  and  otherwise  being  brought  into 
such  immediate  contact  with  him  that  perquisites  of 
no  insignificant  amount  would  be  inevitable.  But  to 
their  sorrow  the  sequel  told  them  that  my  lord's  own 
servants  would  do  for  him  whatever  was  wanted,  and 
that  all  the  darkeys  had  to  do  was  to  help  them. 

It  would  have  done  my  Aunt  Sally  or  anybody's  Aunt 

10 


!■■'  !| 


218 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


Hi 


Sally  good  to  have  seen  the  rush  of  her  sex  towards 
the  spot  where  Albert  Edward  alighted  on  the  occasion 
I  have  just  alluded  to,  and  to  have  heard  such  criticisraa 
from  their  lips  as  "  He's  perfectly  charming,"  "  Lovely," 
and  "  Dear  fellow." 

It  was  a  matter  of  much  disappointment  to  many 
that  he  had  declined  dancing  in  the  evening  in  the 
large  room  of  the  Academy,  and  some  of  the  ladies 
were  so  intent  upon  having  what  they  called  a  hop 
that  they  presented  themselves  in  person  at  the  draw- 
ing-room door  of  His  Royal  Highness  for  the  purpose 
of  tendering  an  invitation  to  him  to  come  out  and 
dance  with  them  in  the  adjoining  room.  This  they 
did,  trusting  to  Providence  for  a  band.  But  their 
wishes  were  not  realized.  The  Prince  remained  quietly 
in  his  dining-room  in  company  with  his  suite  and  several 
of  the  staff  officers  who  had  dined  with  him,  till  a  game 
of  ten-pins  was  suggested,  after  playing  which  in  the 
bowling  alley  he  went  quietly  to  bed. 

At  half-past  ten  on  the  next  morning  the  royal  party 
drove  to  the  wharf,  near  the  hotel,  where  lay  the 
steamer  Daniel  Drew.  Several  of  the  military  officers 
were  present  to  see  them  off,  and  to  these  the  Prince 
spoke  a  kind  adieu.  The  band  then  struck  up  the 
beautiful  air  of  "Home,  Sweet  Home,"  which  was 
played  with  touching  pathos,  the  steamer  meanwhile 
departing  on  her  journey.  It  was  a  farewell  dirge 
which  almost  brought  tears  to  the  eyes  of  those  who 
listened  to  its  magic  strains. 

Onward  glided  the  vessel  within  view  of  the  love- 
liest of  the  Hudson  scenery.  Onward  past  towns  and 
villages,  hills  and  valleys,  ever  picturesque  and  roman- 
tic, towards  Albany. 

The  steamer  was  met  a  few  miles  below  tlie  city  by 
another,  having  on  board  the  Mayor  and  others,  and 
at  half-past  four  o'clock  she  reached  the  wharf.  There 
the  scene  was  one  of  grandeur  and  animation. 

The  Twenty-fifth  and  Seventy-sixth  RegimentB  (one 


THE   PRIXCK   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


219 


foot  and  tlie  otiier  cavalry)  were  on  the  spot,  and  had  so 
much  difficulty  in  keeping  a  space  clear  for  the  disem- 
barkation that  they  were  compelled  to  present  bayonets 
and  stand  with  those  weapons  pointed  at  the  crowd. 

The  procession  was  taken  up  to  the  City  Hall,  in 
open  carriages — the  Mayor  being  seated  beside  the 
Prince,  and  the  dragoons  acting  as  an  escort,  while 
the  infantry  followed  in  the  rear.      ♦*    *      *  "-  ' 

The  whole  population  of  the  capital  of  the  Empire 
State  appeared  to  have  turned  out  and  to  have  gathered 
at  the  windows  and  on  the  roofs  of  the  houses. 

The  masses  surged  after  the  carriages  as  they  passed, 
and  loud  were  the  paeans  of  welcome. 

It  was  another  glorious  sight  for  the  future  King  of 
England  to  gaze  upon,  another  link  forged  in  the  chain 
of  international  friendship,  another  wild  outburst  of 
genuine  good-feeling  on  the  part  of  the  great  American 
people.  Welcome  those  joyous  shouts,  those  waving 
banners,  those  delighted  eyes,  that  take  part  in  the 
noble  tribute  to  a  noble  cause  I  There  is  exultation 
here,  there  is  fellow-feeling  and  respect ;  but  these 
soar  above  adulation.  They  are  the  outpourings  of 
a  free  and  generous,  a  friendly  and  an  independent 
people,  who  hail  Victoria's  son  as  they  would  a  brother. 

The  entry  into  the  Capitol  on  the  hill  was  succeeded 
by  Governor  Morgan  making  a  round  of  presentations, 
after  which  the  party  entered  the  Congress  Hall  Hotel, 
opposite,  where  quarters  had  been  taken  for  them  by 
the  courier. 

In  the  evening  His  Royal  Highness  and  suite  dined 
with  the  Governor  at  his  residence  and  so  ended  the 
proceedings  of  the  day. 


.:j'.,  t 


I''  -il 

1     im 


si 


•>  tf.~ 


-i.il 


220 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


-,-.■•■>'< 


f-,[:^ 


-   fj- 


..ho. 


••/ 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


The  Departure  from  Albany— Progress  en  route— The  Grand  Re- 
ception at  Boston — An  Immense  Crowd — The  Military  Display — 
The  Illuminated  Parade,  etc.      M.n  -ij    ..<?'.?^??^if  <•  j  sr?"!  v  fKi 

From  Albany  on  the  hill  to  Albany  at  the  water- 
side, and  thence  across  the  Hudson  to  the  Western 
Railway  Station,  the  Prince  and  party  proceeded  on 
the  next  morning  under  an  escort  of  cavalry  and  in- 
fantry. A  fragment  of  the  crowd  which  had  gathered 
in  front  of  the  Congress  Hall,  accompanied  them  in 
an  irregular  troop,  and  the  line  of  procession  was 
margined  with  spectators,  who  cheered  and  waved 
their  hats  and  handkerchiefs  in  a  kind  farewell. 

The  Mayor  and  other  authorities  took  leave  of  Vic- 
toria's son,  and  at  a  quarter  to  nine  o'clock  the  royal 
train  and  the  State  car,  which  was  beautifully  embel- 
lished, moved  away  amid  the  acclamations  of  those 
assemJ3led.  ,    .     ^•.    .    .      .    ;,    ,x   ;.i.     > 

Thus  ended  another  of  those  ovations  which  have 
lent  lustre  to  the  New  World  journey  of  Albert 
Edward,  the  beloved.  Away  sped  the  locomotive, 
through  valley,  over  hill,  past  mirror-like  water  and 
woodland,  towards  Boston.  The  stay  at  Springfield, 
where  the  train  arrived  at  twenty  minutes  past  twelve, 
was  limited  to  five  minutes  ;  nevertheless,  two  colonels 
of  the  local  army  entered  the  royal  car,  and,  present- 
ing the  letter  of  introduction  from  the  Governor  of 
Massachusetts  to  Lord  Lyons,  welcomed  the  Prince  to 
the  State,  and  afterwards  accompanied  him  to  Boston. 
The  multitude  at  the  station,  including  the  Mayor, 
were  enthusiastic  in  their  cheers,  and  it  was  a  matter 
to  them  of  extreme  regret,  that  His  Royal  Highness 
made  so  short  a  stay. 


si 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


221 


Grand  Ee- 
Display— 

[Q  water- 
Western 
leeded  on 
y  and  in- 
gathered 
L  them  in 
jsion  was 
id  waved 
rell. 

,ve  of  Vic- 

the  royal 

Uy  embel- 

j  of  those 

hich  have 
of  Albert 
Dcomotive, 
water  and 
pringfield, 
ast  twelve, 
1^0  colonels 
d,  present- 
)vernor  of 
Prince  to 
to  Boston, 
he  Mayor, 
IS  a  matter 
Highness 


When  Longwood  was  reached,  the  train  stopped  at 
the  Cottage  Farm  Station  of  the  Boston  and  Worces- 
ter Railroad,  three  miles  from  the  city.  Here  the 
royal  party  were  joined  by  the  Mayor  of  Boston  and 
the  City  Government. 

'  Over  the  mill-dam  there  poured  a  crowd  of  thirty 
thousand,  which,  however,  quickly  thinned,  leaving 
only  the  respectable  portion  to  witness  the  cortege  as 
it  passed  by.  Everett,  Winthrop,  and  Lawrence  were 
among  the  number  on  the  spot. 

The  carriages  of  the  Prince  and  suite  moved  for- 
ward under  an  escort  of  the  First  Battalion  of  Light 
Dragoons,  consisting  of  more  than  two  hundred  men, 
the  ladies  waving  their  handkerchiefs  in  a  half  frantic 
state  of  excitement,  and  joining  in  chorus  with  the 
men,  to  which  the  Prince  responded  by  raising  his  hat 
and  bowing  to  the  crowd.  "  God  save  the  Queen" 
was  being,  meanwhile,  played  by  the  band. 

Although  the  procession  moved  forward  at  a  quar- 
ter to  four,  it  was  as  much  past  five  before  it  reached 
Bowdoin  Square.  I  was  astonished  to  see  the  well- 
dressed  and  evidently  polite  people  that  lined  the 
streets,  especially  through  Longwood  (the  name  re- 
vives my  recollections  of  St.  Helena),  and  pleased  to 
see  the  fraternal  interest  they  manifested  in  behalf  of 
the  future  King  of  England. 

Here  he  is  I  Hurrah  I  was  an  almost  incessant  cry, 
as  the  Prince's  carriage  came  within  view. 

Boys,  babies,  and  old  women,  blushing  and  bloom- 
ing girls,  and  gray-haired  men,  were  alike  mingled  in 
the  mass,  but  all  united  in  the  one  grand  sentiment  of 
welcome  to  the  heir  apparent  to  the  throne  of  En- 
gland, the  babies  perhaps  excepted. 

The  b  ight  eyes  of  fair  women  beamed  from  a  thou- 
sand windows,  and  over  the  five  miles  of  the  line  of 
route  their  presence  graced  the  way. 

I  may  live  long,  but  I  shall  never  again  see  such  a 
series  of  ovations  as  I  did  from  the  arrival  of  the 


k 

III' 


III* 


•*     !i 


222 


ROYALTY  W  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OB, 


Prince  of  Wales  at  Halifax  up  to  the  present  time, 
and  of  which  this  was  nearly  the  last.  I  would  not 
have  missed  the  sight  of  them  for  any  money,  and  yet 
I  am  no  worshiper  of  a  throne. 

Mile  after  mile  the  gray  of  the  infantry  and  the  blue 
and  white  of  the  National  Lancers,  brightened  the 
procession  towards  the  Revere  House.  .4,ji  ?  . 

The  people  of  New  York,  and  wherever  else  the 
Prince  passed  through,  know  enough  of  the  character 
of  these  boundlessly  cordial  receptions,  to  dispense 
with  my  descriptions,  which  would  be  but  a  glimmer 
compared  with  the  sunlight  of  the  reality. 

At  Longwood  Bridge  the  crowd  grew  denser,  and 
carriages  and  horses  almost  blocked  the  way,  while 
the  trees  were  populated  with  grown  men  and  small 
boys,  who  had  about  the  best  view  of  all,  besides  in- 
dulging in  the  pastime  of  plundering  the  apple-trees 
of  their  fruit. 

The  procession  quickened  its  pace  as  it  advanced, 
and  the  crowd  of  followers  quickened  theirs  also,  to 
the  tune  of  passing  plaudits. 

On  went  the  cavalcade  through  the  main  street  of 
Roxbury,  the  enthusiasm  increased,  and  thousands  of 
handkerchiefs,  waved  by  female  hands,  kept  time  to 
the  cheers  of  the  men.  There  was  a  snow-storm  of 
cambrics,  a  thunder  of  applause,  but  the  latter  only 
rent  the  air  at  intervals.  There  were  momv-^nts  when 
the  Prince  moved  by  almost  amid  silence.  But  mo- 
ments are  not  hours,  and  it  is  these  that  make  the 
summum  bonum,  the  ultima  thule  of  such  an  ovation, 
and  they  were  well.  New  York  alone  excelled,  and 
to  it  all  may  cry  "  Excelsior,"  but  its  like  is  elsewhere 
unreachable.  - -^ 

1  do  not  profess  to  elevate  every  stretch  of  the  hu- 
man neck  into  the  dignity  of  history.  It  is  enough  to 
say  that  all  were  eager  and  that  nearly  all  saw.  Flags 
waved  before  their  eyes,  and  the  scene  was  one  of  the 
most  inspiriting  character. 


li 


h^ 

CJ 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


223 


Past  the  State  House  and  the  Common  the  caval- 
cade dragged  its  slow  lengtli  along,  for  here  the  pace 
slackened,  and  so  on  to  the  Revere  House,  the  multi- 
tude becoming  vaster  as  the  hotel  was  neared.  The 
crowd  was  here  so  dense  that  His  Royal  Highness, 
after  entering  at  the  side  door,  came  out  upon  the  bal- 
cony and  acknowledged  their  cheers,  the  greatest  ex- 
citement and  most  intense  enthusiasm  venting  itself  in 
cheers,  meanwhile  prevailing.  After  this,  some  pres- 
entations took  place,  including  Mr.  Everett,  and  then 
the  party  remained  in  quiet  till  eight  P.M.,  when  din- 
ner was  served.  Kossuth  and  Jenny  Lind  respect- 
ively produced  an  excitement  in  Boston,  but  nothing 
was  ever  seen  equal  to  the  present  event  in  its  highly 
respectable  precincts,  which  are,  nevertheless,  said  to 
have  at  least  five  distinct  smells. 

In  the  evening  the  grand  procession  of  the  Bell  and 
Everett  party  took  place,  and  kept  up  the  excitement 
to  boiling  point. 

For  two  hours  before  the  procession  started,  it 
gathered  and  came  together  like  the  pieces  in  a  puzzle 
map.  Lines  of  men,  with  flaming  red  and  white  lan- 
terns, came  from  all  wards  and  all  directions,  and 
formed  on  the  Common,  their  red  shoulder  scarfs  giv- 
ing them  a  showy  appearance  in  the  glare  ariiid  the 
darkness. 

I  saw  them  pass  the  Revere  House,  while  His  Royal 
Highness  came  forward  to  witness  the  pageantry  of 
the  nocturnal  scene.  Bells  tinkled,  bells  resounded 
like  church  knells,  rockets  flew,  crimson  lights  explod- 
ed sunflower-like,  cheers  swelled  on  cheers,  host  suc- 
ceeded host  with  the  imposing  aspect  of  an  army,  and 
the  glittering,  lustrous,  gleaming  procession  murclied 
on  its  way,  club  succeeded  club,  for  more  than  an 
hour.  Mounted  police  headed  it,  and  horsemen  and 
carriages,  the  latter  filled  with  flag  bearers,  and  the 
lancers  brought  up  the  rear. 

Illuminated  bells  and  transparencies  occurred  at 


li 


II 


\ ' 


224 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


intervals,  while  the  line  of  route  itself  was  here  and 
there  decorated  with  colored  lights,  flags,  and  devices. 

Immense  enthusiasm  prevailed,  and  "  all  went  merry 
as  a  marriage  belL" 

The  usually  quiet  city  of  Boston  was  no  longer 
itself.  To  use  popular  language,  it  was  turned  upside 
down,  under  the  combined  influence  of  the  Prince  of 
Wales  and  politics.  The  people  did  all  possible  honor 
to  their  illustrious  guests.  Many  of  them  closed  their 
stores,  notwithstanding  the  unusually  large  traffic  con- 
sequent on  the  presence  of  tens  of  thousands  of  visitors, 
which  showed  a  self-sacrifice  of  the  most  genuine  char- 
acter. The  Bostonians  are  unostentatious  and  un- 
demonstrative in  their  show  of  cordiality,  but  they  are 
none  the  less  well-meaning  than  those  who  make  a 
more  boisterous  and  jubilant  display. 

The  Revere  House  was,  of  course,  the  centre  of  at- 
traction from  an  early  hour  on  the  following  morning; 
and  the  Hon.  Edward  Everett  and  others  called  upon 
the  Prince  before  noon,  as  also  did  Ralph  Farnham 
— the  hero  of  Bunker  Hill — and  his  daughter,  all  of 
whom  were  kindly  received  by  His  Royal  Highness. 

The  crowd  increased  in  the  neighborhood  of  the 
hotel  as  the  day  advanced,  till,  at  half-past  +welve, 
when  the  Prince  made  his  appearance  through  a  side 
door,  it  was  with  difficulty  kept  within  the  prescribed 
limits  by  the  mounted  and  foot  police,  who  lacked 
civility  more  than  energy. 

He  was  in  full  colonel's  uniform,  with  the  ribbon  of 
the  Garter  conspicuous  across  his  breast.  The  Duke 
of  Newcastle,  Lord  Lyons,  and  others  of  the  suite, 
were  in  plain  morning  dress. 

A  burst  of  cheering  greeted  him  as  he  stepped  into 
the  open  cr.rriage  in  waiting,  after  which  Colonel  Reed, 
of  the  Governor's  staff,  took  his  seat  beside  him  in 
uniform. 

The  drive  was  direct  to  the  State  House,  where  the 
Mayor  and  other  municipal  authorities,  had  previously 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


225 


assembled  to  receive  him,  together  with  several  hund- 
reds of  ladies  and  gentlemen,  wlio  filled  the  Repre- 
sentatives' Hall  and  Senate  Chamber. 

As  the  three  or  four  carriages  containing  the  royal 
party  drove  up  to  the  Common,  which  was  densely 
packed  with  people — save  in  the  avenues  and  other 
places,  whe-e  the  police  had  kept  a  space  clear — the 
people  unavoidably  presented  some  obstruction  to  the 
progress  of  the  cortege ;  but,  after  a  few  moments'  de- 
lay, the  human  mass  was  cleaved  in  twain,  and  the 
horses  bounded  forward. 

As  His  Royal  Highness  alighted,  there  was  a  good 
deal  of  cheering,  not  only  from  the  multitude  on  terra 
firma,  but  from  those  higli  up  on  the  balconies  of  the 
State  House,  from  the  centre  of  which  drooped  the  flag 
of  England,  while  at  either  side  hung  the  flags  of  the 
United  States  and  Massachusetts  respectively. 

The  Cadets  were  here  drawn  up  to  receive  him,  and 
their  band  struck  up  the  music  of  "  God  save  the 
Queen."  Colonel  Reed  conducted  His  Royal  High- 
ness into  the  presence  of  Governor  Banks,  when  he 
was  introduced  as  "  the  Prince  of  Wales,"  upon  which 
the  Governor  welcomed  him,  following  which  he  con- 
ducted his  illustrious  guest  through  the  Representa- 
tives' Hall  and  Senate  Chamber,  all  there  present  ris- 
ing as  he  entered. 

Ten  minutes  had  hardly  elapsed  when  they  passed 
down  the  steps  to  the  Common,  where  His  Royal 
Highness  mounted  the  horse,  Black  Prince,  in  waiting 
for  him,  and,  with  an  escort  of  military,  rode  forward 
to  the  review.  ,  - 


if!' 
ill 


I 


1 


Mil 


■jf=-'tli'%K:«^ 


10* 


'iifiihsjl :  '"'} 


V     *.;'yJlL 


'.>'■  '*t  •  '^'^fii'iii}   '-^-'''.'Vi:  'HH'l'z''  <"-  ^\^i'  "t'  ''}■ 


226 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW   WORLD  ;  OB, 


'Si.*    u^rZ'   i  y.u' 


^  CHAPTER  XXVII. 


The  Review— The  Musical  Festival— The  Grand  Ball— The  Visit  to 
Harvard  College  and  Bunker  Hill — The  Departure  for  Portland— 
The  Embarkation— The  last  Farewell  to  America. 


•  ■Wl 


i.-*  V  . 


It  was  a  fine  sight  as  His  Royal  Highness  appeared 
on  the  Common,  to  hear  the  cheers  and  watch  the  ex- 
citement of  the  tens  of  thousands  of  men,  women,  and 
children  there  assembled.  The  review  commenced  at 
two,  by  the  Prince  riding  slowly  past  the  different 
companies,  commencing  at  the  right  of  the  line,  and 
concluding  at  the  extreme  left,  when  he  once  more 
took  position  in  front.  During  this  time  the  swell  of 
music  from  the  military  bands  resounded  on  all  sides. 
The  marching  salute  was  now  given,  and  the  compa- 
nies proceeded  once  round  the  line.  The  two  thou- 
sand five  hundred  soldiers  looked  splendid  in  the  sun- 
light, and  as  they  resumed  their  positions  they  were 
complimented  as  worthy  even  to  rank  with  the  superb 
militia  of  New  York — the  finest  in  the  world.  A 
drive  back  to  the  State  House  and  a  collation  in  the 
ante-room  on  the  northwest  corner  of  the  building  im- 
mediately succeeded,  after  which  the  royal  party  re- 
turned to  the  hotel.  The  next  great  event  of  the  day 
was  the  Musical  Festival  at  the  Music  Hall,  which 
was  beautifully  refitted,  and  decorated  for  the  occa- 
sion. The  singers  consisted  of  twelve  hundred  boys 
and  girls  of  the  Boston  schools,  who  were  arranged 
on  amphitheatric  seats  in  two  divisions.  The  girls 
who  filled  one  of  these  were  nearly  all  dressed  in  white 
frocks,  and  contrasted  pleasingly  with  the  sombre  mass 
of  the  other  sex. 

Every  tier  was  densely  crowded  with  ladies  and  the 
pit  with  gentlemen,  by  the  time  the  Prince  and  party 


V 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALE8   IN   AMERICA. 


227 


arrived  at  a  quarter  past  five.  Their  entrance  was 
the  signal  for  a  prolonged  and  enthusiastic  burst  of 
cheering,  not  only  from  the  children,  but  the  entire 
audience,  and  quite  a  snow-storm  of  white  handker- 
chiefs fluttered  in  the  air  for  whole  minutes. 

Tlien  the  massive  organ  pealed  out  the  loud  full 
tones  of  "  God  save  the  Queen,"  upon  which  the  whole 
audience  rose  and  the  twelve  hundred  sang  in  unison 
with  incomparable  effect — 


•A 


:>f^'.^J 


')r»!< 


mrM:Ux:< 


*H 


:>.*;■. 


'■'.'V  , 


'ih. 


Ji). 


i-''^:.M 


God  bless  our  Fathers'  Land ! 
Keep  her  in  heart  and  hand 

One  with  our  own ! 
From  all  her  foes  defend, 
Be  her  brave  People's  Friend,      ^ 
On  all  her  Realms  descend. 

Protect  her  Throne  I 

Father,  with  loving  care 
Guard  Thou  her  kingdom's  Heir. 

Guide  all  his  ways :  '  '     ' 

Thine  arm  his  shelter  be,  •;  *     '   .• 

From  him  by  land  and  sea    ,. 
Bid  storm  and  danger  flee,    : 

Prolong  his  days !  -t     ; 

Lord,  let  War's  tempest  cease,         ,    •  .;,• 
Fold  the  whole  Earth  in  peace, .  * 

Under  Thy  wings  I 
•"  "*      '  '        Make  all  Thy  Nations  one,  .  :   ji   j  .;     > 

^^'.  :.;.  All  Hearts  benes th  the  sun,  ..,?,.!;,■    >     * 

Till  Thou  Shalt  reign  alone,  .V      „ 

'/  Great  King  of  Kings  I        ■      '' ''    >     /'  v 

•   '  ■     ••  «:•(!.>;:'•  _^ 

I  joined  with  the  multitude  in  enthusiastic  applause 
when  the  children  sat  down  again,  and  after  that  I 
listened  to  their  renderings  of  Mendelssohn,  Beethoven, 
Mozart,  and  the  Old  Hundredth  Psalm,  with  as  much 
interest  as  their  anxious  mothers  in  the  gallery.  TI^^J 
did  well,  and  at  the  close,  soon  after  six,  when  the 
Prince  rose,  the  acclamations  weve  ^^enewed,  and  ex-' 
ultation  iind  delight  beamed  ^n  ^iVe^  90\\ht^natice. 

And  now  a  word  fav  the  Wl "ifl  tn(x  Thpatr^i;  at, 
which  I  was  present  ^iew  hours  l^t^y.  jl  was  ^  gr^iic^^ 


V 


i', 


\*.- 


228 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD)   OR, 


full  gathering  of  the  elite  of  New  England  in  honor 
of  the  representative  of  Old  England.  It  was  a  crush 
cevtainly,  but  a  glorious  crush  that  gave  it  the  highest 
eclat.  There  was  no  vulgarity  there.  Beauty  and 
diamonds  dazzled  the  eye  at  every  glance,  and  the 
costumes  generally  were  strictly  a  la  mode. 

The  Boston  theatre  seemed  to  have  doubled  its  size, 
so  immense  was  the  space  which  was  crowded  with 
"  fair  Hi  lidens  and  brave  men."  Even  after  the  Acad- 
emy of  New  York,  with  its  magnificent  coup  dJaU  of 
light,  flowers,  ana  beauty,  the  Boston  ball-room  did 
not  seem  second  rate  or  fade  ;  but,  on  the  contrary, 
so  unique  and  original  were  the  designs,  and  so  admira- 
bly were  those  designs  carried  out,  that  even  the  suite 
of  the  Prince  were  delighted,  and  acknowledged  that, 
in  tht  matter  of  ball-room  decorations  at  least,  the  fer- 
tility of  human  invention  is  wonderful.  The  Boston 
ball-room  was  about  the  same  shape  as  that  of  the 
Academy,  and  was  formed  in  the  same  way,  the  par- 
quette  and  stage  being  floored  over.  The  smaller  size 
of  the  house,  however,  gave  the  Bostonians  the  ad\  ant- 
age  in  a  cosy,  comfortable,  enjoyable  feeling  which 
very  great  rooms  always  lack,  and  without  which  a 
great  ball  is  simply  a  great  nuisance.  One  felt  at 
home  immediately  upon  entering  the  building,  and  pre- 
pared to  enjoy  himself  as  naturally  as  if  the  affair  had 
been  a  private  party. 

Broad  double  stairs  led  from  the  entrance  of  the 
building  to  the  reception  room,  which  was  rath  .  taw- 
drily furnished,  with  red,  blue,  and  white  hangings  and 
wreaths  of  flowers,  and  which  presented  no  special 
decoration,  except  a  large  British  coat  of  arms,  sup- 
ported by  American  flags,  and  suspended  opposite  the 
entrance.  Near  this  reception  room  was  the  com- 
mittee room,  furnished  in  the  style  of,  and  as  richly  as, 
any  private  parlor.  The  Prince  had  the  saloon  of  the 
theatre  for  his  dressing  and  retiring  room.  The  sa- 
loon was  repainted,  decorated  and  furnished  in  draw- 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


229 


lonor 
crush 
gliest 
J  and 
d  the 

s  size, 
L  with 
Acad- 
(bU  of 
m  did 
itrary, 
dmira- 
le  suite 
sd  that, 
the  fer- 
Boston 
of  the 
the  par- 
ler  size    , 
ad\  ant- 

which 
v^hich  a 

felt  at 
md  pre- 

air  had 

of  the 

,  taw- 

ngs  and 

special 

ns,  sup- 

►site  the 

he  com- 

chly  as, 

n  of  the 

The  sa- 

n  draw- 


ing-room style,  and  was  provided  with  a  splendid 
mirror  and  all  the  appliances  of  the  toilet.  The  other 
dressing-rooms  were  very  handsomely  and  convenient- 
ly furnished,  but  presented  no  special  point  for  descrip- 
tion. Having  thus  hastily  glanced  through  the  dress- 
ing-rooms, let  us  proceed  through  the  newly  painted 
corridors,  carpeted  with  green  baize,  to  the  centre 
of  attraction  and  beauty — the  theatre  itself. 

Entering  the  room  from  the  doors  directly  opposite 
the  stage,  the  eye,  dazzled  by  the  light  from  a  thousand 
burners,  failed  at  first  to  take  in  the  full  beauty  of  the 
scene.  The  private  boxes  were  hidden  by  groves  of 
evergreens,  from  the  deep  shades  of  which  peeped  pure 
white  statues,  as  if  the  wood-nymphs  were  observing 
the  display  and  were  eager  to  join  in  the  dance. 
Those  groves  flanked  the  entrance  to  the  stage,  and 
above  them  were  crimson  curtains,  rising  in  beautiful 
folds  to  the  proscenium  drapery,  which  was  formed  of 
an  immense  American  flag,  most  gracefully  arranged. 
The  roof  of  the  marquee  was  painted  in  arabesque 
work,  in  eight  varied  colors,  with  fantastic  designs, 
and  from  this  ceiling  were  suspended  three  chande- 
liers, of  a  style  similar  to  the  arabesque  designs. 
Falling  from  the  ceiling  to  the  side  walls  were  crim- 
son curtains,  relieved  by  gold  bands,  and  sloped  and 
lapelled  in  Turkish  style,  producing  a  most  beautiful 
and  novel. effect.  The  side  walls  were  painted  in  im- 
perial purple,  with  ornamented  squares,  and  relieved 
by  panels^  framed  in  gold  and  painted  in  lighter  colors 
and  more  varied  designs.  From  cadi  of  these  panels 
— four  on  either  side  of  the  marquee — d«'pended  side 
chandeliers,  in  ebony  and  gilt,  under  which,  upon  orna- 
mented pedestals,  were  vases  of  natural  flowers,  from 
Ever's  gardens  at  Trighton.  Between  these  chan- 
deliers were  large  pier  glasses,  gilt  frames  and  flower 
wreathed,  and  the  reduplication  of  these  mirrors 
seemed  to  increase  immeasurably  the  size  of  the  room. 
In  the  corners,  at  the  extremity  of  the  tent,  were  also 


!U 


230 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WOBLD  ;    OB, 


pier  glasses,  half  concealed  by  common  curtains,  and 
just  beyond  them  were  evergreens  and  flowers,  form- 
ing beautiful  supports  to  the  back  scene,  and  relieved 
by  statues  of  Ceres  and  Hebe.  =  .     ' 

Looking  from  the  entrance  of  the  marquee  towards 
its  extremity,  the  effect  was  bewildering.  Besides  all 
these  decorations,  which  the  reader  must  frame  into  a 
picture  for  himself,  the  eye  was  attracted  by  many 
little  details — a  stripe  of  gilt,  a  happy  flourish  of  the 
crayon,  which  cannot  be  described  upon  paper,  but 
which  aided  the  general  effect.  Then  immediately 
opposite,  half  liidden  by  trees  and  flowers,  among 
which  a  white  fountain  bubbled  up  its  crystal  waters, 
falling  again  in  diamond  drops  beneath  the  brilliant 
lights,  an  immense  picture  of  Windsor  Castle  frowned 
splendidly  and  completed  the  tout  ensemble.  From  the 
turrets  of  the  magnificent  castle  floated  the  royal 
standard.  Around  were  trees,  picturesquely  arranged 
and  grouping  with  the  real  evergreen  in  the  fore- 
ground, while  by  a  happy  fortune  the  artist  had  suc- 
ceeded in  catching  that  hazy,  misty,  half  clouded  sky 
peculiar  to  English  landscapes.  All  of  the  royal  party 
recognized  at  once  the  fidelity  of  this  picture,  and 
repeatedly  expressed  their  admiration  not  only  of  the 
artist's  skill,  but  of  the  good  taste  which  thus  beauti- 
fully and  unostentatiously  suggested  the  presence  of 
the  Prince  and  connected  his  home  with  his  appear- 
ance here.  Seats,  covered  with  green  cloth,  were  ar- 
ranged around  the  marquee,  and  the  royal  party  were 
seated  upon  velvet  sofas. 

Turning  towards  the  entrance  of  the  marquee,  and 
looking  out  upon  the  body  of  the  theatre,  the  coup  deceit 
was  surprising,  and  each  detail  only  heightened  the 
pleasure  of  the  first  impression.  From  the  ceiling, 
richly  frescoed  and  painted  in  gold  and  white,  liung  a 
large  chandelier,  an  inverted  dome  of  gaslights  and 
glass,  glittering  and  blazing  indescribably.  This  and 
side  brackets  around  the  walls  gave  sufficient  light 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  .  MERICA. 


231 


s,  and 

form- 

jlieved 

awards 
ides  all 

into  a 
r  many 
1  of  the 
)er,  but 
jdiately 

among 

waters, 
orilliant 
frowned 
'rom  the 
le  royal 
irranged 
the  fore- 
I  had  suc- 
ided  sky 
j^al  party 

ure,  and 
ly  of  the 

IS  beauti- 

sence  of 
appear- 

were  ar- 

,rty  were 

mee,  and 
\coup  d/ceil 
Vened  the 
ceiling, 
le,  hung  a 
Ightrt  and 
[This  and 
lent  light 


for  a  dozen  such  halls,  and  brought  every  detail  of  the 
decorations  into  full  view.  The  theatre  had  three 
tiers,  each  of  which  was  differently  adorned.  Objec- 
tion might  be  taken  to  the  motive  of  the  decorations 
— whicli  was  mainly  gilt  and  color — and  might  have 
found  fault  witli  the  gaudiness  and  lack  of  simplicity 
which  characterized  the  affair,  but  it  is  certain  that 
everything  which  could  be  done  with  this  style  of 
adornment — and  it  is  capable  of  magnificent  effects 
when  intrusted  to  good  hands — was  accomplished  in 
the  ball-room.  From  the  uppermost  tier,  gilded  pil- 
lars, with  arches  connecting  them,  supported  the  roof, 
and  these  were  left  undecorated,  except  by  slight 
draperies  of  red,  white,  and  blue  flags.  The  front  of 
this  upper  tier  was  covered  with  a  hanging  of  crimson 
cloth,  fringed  with  blue,  and  a  blue  border,  draped  in 
festoons  and  studded  with  gilt  stars,  ran  along  the  up- 
per edge  of  the  balustrade.  Each  of  these  festoons 
was  held  by  a  bouquet  of  natural  flowers,  from  which 
depended  a  long  blue  banneret,  ending  in  a  gilt  ball, 
which  hung  below  the  balustrade  and  over  the  tier 
below.  The  second  tier  was  hung  with  orange  color- 
ed cloth,  fringed  with  blue  and  festooned  with  crimson 
and  wreaths  of  flowers.  At  equal  distances  along  the 
front  were  shields  alternately  bearing  the  Prince  of 
Wales'  feather,  and  the  mottoes,  "  Justitia,"  "  Concor- 
dia," "  Amicitia,"  and  other  Latin  inscriptions.  Each 
of  these  shields  was  placed  upon  a  blue  hanging,  with 
golden  stars,  and  was  supported  on  either  side  by  the 
British  and  American  flags.  The  first  or  lower  tier 
was  hung  with  royal  purple  velvet,  edged  and  relieved 
by  gold  lace,  and  so  festooned  and  draped  as  to  reveal, 
at  equi-distances,  the  gilded  figures  which  adorned  the 
front  of  this  circle.  The  dancing  floor  was  slightly 
raised  above  the  level  of  the  dress  circle,  and  was  in- 
closed by  white  drapery,  edged  with  blue  and  orange 
cloth.  Directly  opposite  tho  tage  and  rising  from 
the  first  to  the  third  tiers  \s  .vo  the  royal  box,  hand- 


232 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J  OR, 


S 


somely  draped  with  crimson  fancifully  embroidered 
with  gold  lace,  and  the  whole  surmounted  by  a  dome 
of  blue  velvet,  with  outlines  and  ornaments  in  gold 
lace.  Upon  the  front  of  the  box  was  the  Prince  of 
Wales'  feather.  Above  it,  where  the  draperies  met, 
were  the  crown  and  arms  of  England,  and  upon  the 
summit  of  the  dome  was  a  spread  eagle,  in  gilt.  The 
entrances  to  the  dancing  floor,  as,  indeed,  to  every  other 
portion  of  the  house,  were  hung  with  curtains  of  pur- 
ple velvet.  If  from  this  description  the  reader  can 
imagine  the  immense  theatre  ;  the  dancing  floor  inclos- 
ed as  by  a  pavilion  ;  each  tier  diff'erently  but  richly 
decorated,  and  crowded  with  superbly  dressed  ladies  ; 
the  royal  box  all  aglare  with  light,  and  rich  in  gilt, 
purple,  and  azure  ;  the  frescoed  ceiling,  with  its  pen- 
dent dome  of  light ;  the  marquee,  with  its  groves,  flow- 
ers, mirrors,  and  arabesque  ceiling,  its  multiform  and 
varied  decorations,  and  its  view  of  Windsor  Castle, 
seen  as  if  from  out  some  immense  window  ;  if  he  can 
imagine  this  scene,  and  then  crowd  it  with  a  galaxy 
of  both  sexes,  whil  cover  all  the  lights  stream  their 
brilliant  radiance,  and  mirrors  and  jewels  flash  back 
and  reduplicate  the  rays,  and  the  soft,  sweet  swell  of 
the  music  bears  with  it  the  light  moving  throng  in  a 
bewildering  maze  of  beauty,  then  he  can  form  some 
idea  of  the  appearance  of  the  Boston  theatre  at  the 
Prince  of  Wales  ball. 

The  Prince  arrived  at  half-past  ten  and  opened  the 
ball  with  Mrs.  Lincoln,  the  wife  of  the  Mayor. 

I  have  a  dim  idea  that  Mrs.  Governor  Banks,  and 
Mrs.  Lieut.  Wise,  and  Miss  Crowinshield,  aud  Miss 
Lissie  Amory,  and  Miss  Carrie  Bigelow,  and  Miss 
Lyman,  and  the  most  lovely  girl  I  ever  saw — name 
unknown — were  among  the  others  who  had  the  felicity 
of  dancing  with  him  afterwards,  in  consideration  of 
which  I  have  hereby  immortalized  them. 

The  supper  arrangements  were  excellent,  and  the 
spirit  of  the  ball  made  glorious  the  night  to  all  who 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


233 


Didered 
a  dome 
in  gold 
ince  of 
ies  met, 
pon  the 
t.    The 
ry  other 
I  of  pur- 
tder  can 
r  inclos- 
it  richly 
1  ladies ; 
h  in  gilt, 
L  its  pen- 
ves,  flow- 
form  and 
r  Castle, 
if  he  can 

a  galaxy 
3am  their 

ash  back 

swell  of 
Irong  in  a 

)rm  some 
Ere  at  the 

3ened  the 

inks,  and 
laud  Miss 
land  Miss 
Iw — name 
[le  felicity 
^ration  of 

and  the 
[o  all  who 


reveled  in  its  splendor.  It  was  a  grand  wind  up  of 
the  festivities  of  the  grand  tour  of  the  New  World. 
It  shed  lustre  upon  the  Bostonians  as  the  receptions 
which  His  Royal  Highness  met  with  in  all  the  other 
cities  he  visited,  with  the  two  exceptions  of  Kingston 
,and  Belleville,  shed  lustre  upon  their  inhabitants  also, 
and  it  will  be  a  source  of  pride  to  them  and  their 
posterity  hereafter  to  read  the  record  of  their  deeds 
in  the  history  of  our  time. 

It  was  half-past  three  when  His  Royal  Highness, 
after  dancing  the  entire  programme  of  seventeen  danc- 
es, left  the  ball-room,  the  band  meanwhile  playing 
"  God  save  the  Queen,"  and  the  eyes  of  the  company 
glancing  full  upon  him  till  he  disappeared.   '   v 

Friday  dawned  bright  and  fair,  and  a  crowd,  as 
usual,  assembled  in  front  of  the  hotel  where  royalty  re- 
sided. Soon  after  noon  the  wish  of  the  multitude  was 
gratified  by  a  sight  of  the  Prince  as  he  stepped  into 
an  open  barouche  in  company  with  the  Mayor  of  Cam- 
bridge, who  with  the  members  of  the  Committee  of 
Arrangements  of  the  City  Government  had  come  to 
escort  him  thither. 

The  Duke  and  Lord  Lyons  sat  on  the  opposite  seat, 
and  the  remainder  of  the  suite  with  Governor  Banks, 
Mayor  Lincoln,  and  Hon.  Edward  Everett  entered 
other  carriages,  and  all  drove  towards  Harvard  Uni- 
versity. There  was  a  general  shout  intended  for  a 
cheer,  and  this  was  continued  with  varying  vigor  by 
those  assembled  on  the  sidewalks  along  the  line  of 
route  to  Cambridge,  where  the  enthusiasm  rather  in- 
creased than  diminished.  British  and  American  en- 
signs were  suspended  across  the  street  at  the  Cam- 
bridge end  of  the  bridge,  and  in  Broadway  the  children 
of  the  Cambridge  schools  appeared  in  gala  dress  on 
either  side  of  the  street.  No  sooner  did  the  cortege 
appear  in  sight  than  these,  to  the  admiration  of  their 
mothers,  commonccd  waving  white  liandkerchiefsin  tlie 
air.     The  speed  of  the  royal  carriage  was  slackened 


li 


m 


234 


ROTTALtY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


i 


into  a  walk,  and  as  it  passed  between  the  juvenile  lines 
the  clapping  of  hands  became  furious,  and  one  young 
lady  of  the  number  stepped  forward  and  handed  the 
Prince  a  bouquet,  which  he  took  with  a  graceful  bow 
and  a  smile  that  to  the  girl  was  a  prize. 

The  young  ladies  of  the  high  school  were  assembled 
further  on,  and  from  these  came  a  shower  of  floral 
bunches,  while  people  cheered  from  the  housetops,  bal- 
conies, and  windows,  in  a  hearty  welcome  to  the  illus- 
trious visitor. 

When  the  party  neared  the  college  grounds  they 
found  the  undergraduates  in  the  order  of  seniority 
drawn  up  to  receive  them,  while,  as  they  entered,  the 
Germania  Band  struck  up  "  God  save  the  Queen"  with 
excellent  effect,  and  the  concourse  of  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen there  gathered  lifted  their  voices  in  a  joyous 
chorus  of  welcome,  to  which  the  white  handkerchiefs 
of  the  former  kept  time. 

Between  the  lines  of  students,  who  numbered  more 
than  four  hundred  in  all,  the  party  passed  up  the  main 
avenue  to  the  library,  while  the  aspirants  in  law, 
physic,  and  divinity  cheered  warmly  their  young  fel- 
low-student of  Oxford.  Here  he  was  met  by  President 
Felton,  and  taking  his  arm  he  was  conducted  to  the 
hall,  and  introduced  to  Ex-Presidents  Quincy,  Sparks, 
Winthrop,  and  Walker,  with  whom  he  entered  freely 
into  conversation.  He  afterwards  spoke  to  the  Hon. 
Charles  Sumner,  and  on  being  introduced  to  Dr. 
Holmes,  with  whose  name  was  coupled  the  authorship 
of  the  ode  entitled  "  Our  Fathers'  Land"  sung  by  the 
school  children  at  the  festival  of  the  previous  day,  he 
manifested  much  interest. 

The  Faculty,  Trustees,  and  other  oflScers,  were  also 
here  introduced  to  him.  The  Librarian  then  showed 
the  visitors  round,  and  among  other  curiosities  point- 
ed  out  tlie  first  Indian  Bible  printed  in  America.  Aft- 
er a  stay  of  twenty  minutes,  the  party  signed  their 
names  in  the  visitors'  book,  and  left  the  building. 


e  lines 
young 
;d  the 
ilbow 

jmbled 
'  floral 
ps,  bal- 
le  illu*- 

ia  they 
jniority 
•ed,  the 
m"  with 
nd  gen- 
i  joyous 
lerchiefs 

3d  more 
the  main 
in  law, 
ung  fel- 
resident 
d  to  the 
Sparks, 
id  freely 
;he  Hon. 
to  Dr. 
thorship 
by  the 
day,  he 

rere  also 
showed 
les  point- 
lea.  Aft- 
led  their 
ling. 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


235 


They  were  met  outside  by  the  students,  who  had 
formed  in  a  hollow  to  receive  them. 

The  President  conducted  tlie  Prince  between  lines 
of  the  latter,  who  had  formed  to  keep  back  the 
crowd,  from  this  to  Boylston  Hall,  and  thence  to  the 
University  Building,  the  students  still  lining  the  way, 
and  the  mass  of  spectators  following.  The  law  school 
was  next  visited,  and  here  the  students  of  that  depart- 
ment cheered  enthusiastically. 

The  Prince  then  expressed  a  desire  to  see  one  of  the 
students'  rooms,  and  one  was  shown  him  accordingly, 
no  doubt  to  the  intense  gratification  of  its  occupant. 

The  "  Academic  Groves"  meanwhile  resounded  with 
the  pleasant  music  of  the  band  in  attendance. 

The  carriages  were  here  re-entered,  and  the  party 
drove  away  to  the  observatory,  amid  the  cheers  of 
the  rising  lights  of  the  American  Athens,  the  Tre- 
mont  of  its  settlers,  while  the  bells  of  the  adjacent 
church  played  a  sweet  and  merry  peal  in  concert 
with  the  band,  and  brightly  shone  the  sun  over  the 
classic  ground. 

While  the  Prince  was  looking  through  telescopes, 
and  reading  the  results  of  heavenly  observations,  the 
sons  of  Alma  Mater  formed  themselves  into  a  circle 
and  sang  "Auld  Lang  Syne,"  after  which  the  Band 
played  "  Fair  Harvard"  with  such  effect  as  to  elicit 
a  general  clapping  of  hands. 

After  the  lapse  of  half,  an  hour  the  carriages  were 
seen  returning.  A  hasty  visit  to  the  Agazzi's  Museum 
followed,  and  then,  passing  back  to  Harvard  Hall,  the 
visitors  alighted  and  proceeded  to  partake  of  a  colla- 
tion. The  whole  company  present  at  this  numbered 
nearly  a  hundred.  Here  the  guiding  lights  of  the 
home  of  the  Puritans  were  enabled  to  make  casual  al- 
lusion in  their  conversation  with  the  royal  party  to 
their  city's  thrilling  traditionary  and  historical  asso- 
ciations, its  literary  and  educational  facilities,  which 
begun  with  the  publication  of  its  first  newspaper  in 


236 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :   OR, 


1704,  more  than  seventy  years  after  its  first  settlement, 
and  much  beside. 

With  the  termination  of  the  luncheon  the  visit  to  the 
college  terminated. 

There  was  a  grand  chorus  of  cheers  from  the  stu- 
dents and  concourse  in  the  yard  generally  as  His 
Royal  Highness  stepped  into  his  carriage,  and  the  cor- 
tege moved  away  towards  Mount  Auburn,  followed  by 
a  troop  of  men,  women  and  children  in  carriages,  on 
horseback  and  afoot. 

The  party  were  met  at  the  chapel  within  the  gates 
by  two  of  the  trustees,  who  pointed  out  the  statues  of 
Adams,  Story,  and  Winthrop,  after  v^hioh  the  Prince, 
in  the  presence  of  a  large  number  of  spectators,  plant- 
ed an  English  elm  and  purple  ash  in  the  ground  front- 
ing the  chapel. 

The  Necropolis  was  not  much  explored  by  the  party, 
as,  without  further  delay,  they  re-entered  their  car- 
riages and  drove  away,  the  Mayor  of  Boston  having 
now  taken  the  place  of  the  Mayor  of  Cambridge  be- 
side His  Royal  Highness.  i 

And  now  for  Bunker  Hill,  and  heigh-ho  for  Charles- 
town.  When  the  party  alighted  at  the  gate  leading 
to  the  monument  they  encountered  a  crowd  which  im- 
peded their  progress  towards  the  small  house  at  the 
entrance  to  the  structure  which  somebody  explained 
to  the  Prince  was  commemorative  of  the  battle  fought 
on  the  spot.  He  was  also  told  that  by  ascending  three 
hundred  steps  reaching  to  its  summit  he  would  enjoy  a 
most  delightful  prospect  embracing  an  extensive  sweep 
of  land  and  water,  hill  and  dale,  and  a  charming 
panorama  of  Boston  and  the  long.bridges  which  shoot 
from  it  like  the  arms  of  a  huge  wind-mill.  "  But," 
said  the  Prince,  "  it's  nearly  dark,"  which  was  ac- 
cepted as  a  sufficient  reason  for  his  not  scaling  the 
height.  He,  however,  signed  "Albert  Edward"  in  the 
visitors'  book,  and  those  with  him  having  followed  suit 
the  party  made  an  observation  of  the  statue  of  Warren, 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


237 


tlement, 

;it  to  the 

the  stu- 

as  His 

I  the  cor- 

owed  by 

iages,  on 

the  gates 
tatues  of 
e  Prince, 
irs,  plant- 
ind  front- 

the  party, 
their  car- 
)n  having 
►ridge  be- 

Charles- 
e  leading 
which  im- 
ise  at  the 
explained 
tie  fought 
ling  three 
d  enjoy  a 
live  sweep 
charming 
ich  shoot 
"  But," 
was  ac- 
laling  the 
d"  in  the 
lowed  suit 
Warren, 


and  the  interior  of  the  base  of  the  monument,  after 
which  they  returned  to  their  carriages  and  drove  to 
the  city,  where  they  visited  the  Athenaeum  Library, 
and  the  rooms  of  the  Historical  Society,  and  Public  Li- 
brary, founded  by  Joshua  Bates  of  London,  reaciiing 
the  latter,  in  which  a  large  number  of  ladies  and  gen- 
tlemen were  assembled,  at  few  minutes  past  seven. 

He  remained  here  only  a  few  minutes  and  then 
drove  to  the  residence  of  Mayor  Lincoln,  who  intro- 
duced his  family  and  ffiends,  and  thence  to  the  Revere 
House,  from  which  he  did  not  emerge  till  half-past 
nine  on  the  following  morning,  when  he  entered  an 
open  carriage  and  drove  with  his  suite,  the  Mayor, 
Governor  Banks,  and  others,  under  an  escort  of  eighty 
men  of  the  National  Lancers,  accompanied  by  a  band 
in  full  pipe,  to  the  Eastern  Railway  Station.  Of 
course  there  was  a  great  crowd  assembled  at  the  hotel, 
and  a  mixed  assemblage  followed  the  cortege  to  the 
station.  Meanwhile,  a  grand  rush  was  being  made 
upon  the  apartments  just  vacated  by  the  royal  party 
at  the  Revere  by  ladies  and  gentlemen  curious  to  see 
the  recent  abode  of  royalty. 

The  station  was  gay  externally,  with  long  lines  of 
flags  drooping  over  its  entire  front.  Symbols  of  the 
United  States  were  relieved  by  a  representation  of 
the  Victoria  Bridge,  "  the  Pride  of  Canada,"  wliile  the 
entrance  was  spanned  by  an  arch  hung  with  British 
and  American  flags,  and  inscribed  with  the  words 
"  Welcome  to  the  Prince  of  Wales." 

The  interior  of  the  roof  was  decorated  with  the 
flags  of  all  nations.  More  flags  adorned  the  sides, 
and  red  and  green  cloth  covered  that  part  of  the  floor 
over  which  the  visitors  were  to  pass. 

Think  me  not  trivial  in  enumerating  these  things  ; 
they  were  delicate  expressions  of  a  great  national 
feeling,  and  trifles  give  us  the  key  to  mighty  truths  as 
often,  and  not  seldom  more  truly,  than  imposing  deeds. 

A  solid  wall  of  people  surrounded  the  station,  while 


238 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


every  window,  roof,  and  fence  commanding  a  view  of 
the  approach  to,  or  interior  of,  the  building  was  occu- 
pied. -      ■■■•"  >.;>-;:    u. 

When  the  royal  cortege  arrived  there  was  a  gen- 
eral cheer  from  the  assembled  masses,  which  did  one 
good  to  hear. 

The  royal  train  started  at  ten  minutes  to  ten,  amid 
the  renewed  cheers  of  the  people,  and  a  salute  of 
thirty-three  guas,  the  Prince  having  previously  taken 
a  kind  leave  of  the  Captain  ofiithe  Lancers,  and  pre- 
sented a  valuable*  breastpin  to  the  man  who  had  sup- 
plied and  driven  the  royal  barouche. 

A  pilot  engine  ran  two  miles  ahead  of  the  royal 
train,  which  consisted  of  three  cars  and  a  mail  and 
baggage  van,  all  new,  and  drawn  by  a  locomotive  also 
new.  The  appearance  of  the  train  was  extremely 
handsome.  The  car  nearest  the  engine  was  fitted  up 
with  an  elegance  that  has  never  been  equaled  on  any 
other  line.  Costly  sofas,  covered  with  velvet  plush, 
stood  in  the  place  of  ordinary  seats,  and  a  sprinkling 
of  luxurious  easy  chairs,  a  floor  with  a  beautiful  carpet, 
displaying  green  flowers  on  a  crimson  ground,  two 
centre-tables  (one  of  which  was  ornamented  with  a 
chastely  gilded  stand,  bearing  a  delicious  bouquet,  a 
silver  ice-pitcher,  with  gold-lined  silver  goblets,  and 
two  net-work  silver-point  baskets,  laden  with  luscious 
bunches  of  grapes  and  other  fruits),  a  ceiling  of  sky- 
blue  silk,  plaited  and  studded  with  silver  stars,  dra- 
peries of  crimson  and  gold  silk  damask,  and  the  fine 
lace  curtains  of  the  windows,  everything  being  new, 
and  of  the  choicest  description,  gave  to  the  car  an  air 
of  regal  splendor  and  perfect  comfort.  The  cost  of 
the  material  and  labor  in  fitting  this  car  was  four 
thousand  dollars. 

A  retiring  room  was  situated  at  the  front  end  of  the 
car,  and  this  was  furnished  with  a  desk,  reclining 
chair,  and  other  conveniences.  The  Prince  of  Wales' 
plume  and  motto,  with  the  arms  of  Maine,  New  Hamp- 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


239 


ehire,  and  Massachusetts,  were  placed  in  panels  at  the 
opposite  extremity  of  the  car,  outside  of  which  a  semi- 
circular stand,  draped  with  crimson  velvet  hangings, 
was  built  for  the  purp'^^se  of  enabling  His  Royal  High- 
ness to  present  himself  to  the  crowds  expected  to  line 
the  way. 

Everything  that  possibly  could  have  been  done  to 
reach  the  acme  of  luxury  and  ease  was  done,  and  tnat 
regardless  of  expense. 

At  every  station  on  the  line  of  route  a  crowd  had 
gathered,  and  decorations  were  displayed.  At  Salem 
the  Mayor  was  in  waiting,  and  on  the  arrival  of  the 
train  he  stepped  into  the  Prince's  car,  and  welcomed 
him  in  a  neat  speech,  a  salute  being  meanwhile  fired 
from  Castle  Hill,  and  all  the  church  bells  set  ringing. 
Eight  or  ten  thousand  people  filled  the  air  with  their 
cheers  as  the  train  moved  slowly  away. 

At  a  quarter  to  two  the  train  arrived  at  the  Grand 
Trunk  Railway  Terminus  at  Portland,  under  a  salute 
of  thirty-three  guns  from  Bramhall  Hill.  An  immense 
crowd  had  gathered  at  the  station,  where  the  Mayor, 
Admiral  Milne,  and  others,  were  in  waiting  to  receive 
His  Royal  Highness,  as  also  the  whole  of  the  First 
Regiment,  the  Norway  Light  Infantry,  the  Lewiston 
Light  Infantry,  and  the  Auburn  Artillery,  with  their 
bands.  These  acted  as  an  escort  to  His  Royal  High- 
ness through  the  city  to  the  Great  Eastern  wharf,  the 
place  of  embarkation. 

The  concourse  on  the  hill  overlooking  the  latter 
place  was  immetise  for  so  small  a  town  as  Portland, 
and  could  only  be  accounted  for  by  the  large  number 
of  visitors  from  Canada  and  the  neighboring  district, 
who  had  come  to  "  see  him  ofif,"  as  they  said.  Vehi- 
cles of  the  bathing-machine  type  were  there  by  the 
hundred,  and  the  scene  was  one  of  extreme  anima- 
tion. 

Nothing  of  uncommon  interest  occurred  during  the 
drive.    There  was,  of  course,  the  usual  flutter  of  hand- 


240 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


kerchiefs,  and  sounds  of  kindly  greeting  were  beared 
as  the  cortege  passed  along  the  streetn. 

There  was  a  salute  from  the  First  Regiment  as  His 
Royal  Highness  alighted  from  his  carriage  to  walk 
down  the  hill,  passing  under  a  triumphal  arch  on  the 
way,  and  there  were  cheers  and  eager  looks.  But  the 
touching  part  of  the  day's  proceedings  lay  in  the  leave- 
taking  on  the  platform  at  the  foot  of  the  stairs.  It  is 
enough  to  say  that  the  eyes  of  more  than  one  or  two 
of  the  illustrious  visitors  glistened  with  moisture  from 
the  well  of  feeling.  Before  them  lay  the  ships  which 
were  to  bear  them  back  to  fatherland.  The  harbor, 
surrounded  by  land  save  at  the  narrow  entrance,  dis- 
played tlie  flags  of  England  and  America  fluttering 
from  the  ships  at  anchor,  and  the  steamers,  heavy  laden 
with  excursionists  anxious  to  witness  the  sailing  of  the 
royal  barge,  and  the  first  movement  of  the  fleet. 

The  day  was  clear  and  sunny,  but  cold  and  with  a 
fresh  breeze  blowing  from  the  east,  which  rippled  the 
surface  of  the  water. 

"Good  by,  good-by,"  said  the  Duke  with  unusual 
pathos  at  the  same  time  clasping  my  hand  warmly, 
"  good-by,"  Said  His  Royal  Highness,  and  at  a  quarter 
past  three  they  entered  the  Hero's  boat  and  rowed 
away  from  the  shore.  A  loud,  long,  glorious  cheer 
followed  them  across  the  water. 

This  was  the  farewell  between  the  eldest  son  of 
Queen  Victoria  and  the  last  of  thirty  millions  of  kins- 
men whose  affectionate  love  he  bore  back  with  him  to 
his  native  land  to  strengthen  his  throne  and  reunite 
the  hearts  of  both  peoples  for  all  time.    Farewell  I 

And  now  there  boomed  the  royai  salute  from  the 
guns  of  the  Nile,  the  Hero,  the  Ariadne,  the  Styx,  and 
the  Flying  Fish,  the  yards  of  which  were  manned  by 
tlieir  cheering  crews.  From  the  city  and  Fort  Preble 
similar  salvos  were  also  fired,  and  the  air  resounded 
far  and  near  with  the  roar  of  cannon. 

What  more  can  I  say  ?    It  is  for  the  imagination  to 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


241 


fill  up  the  picture,  which  was  one  of  unrivaled  in- 
terest. 

We  watched  the  receding  boat  till  it  became  lost  to 
the  view  through  an  intervening  vessel ;  then  we  had 
another  glimpse  of  it  as,  a  mere  speck  on  the  water, 
it  neared  the  Hero,  for  the  latter  lay  two  miles  away 
and  the  water  was  somewhat  troubled. 

It  V  as  within  ten  minutfjs  of  four  when  the  Prince's 
standard  was  run  up  to  the  maintop  of  the  Hero,  which 
was  the  signal  for  another  salute  from  the  two  vessels 
of  the  North  American  squadron — the  Nile  and  Styx. 

A  solitary  gun  was  fired  from  the  Hero  soon  after 
this.  It  was  the  signal  tc  weigh  anchor.  Accordingly 
at  half-past  four  the  fleet  started,  the  Hero  leading, 
and  the  excursion  steamers  hovering  round,  while  the 
thousands  that  crowded  their  decks  uttered  a  long 
farewell. 

Through  the  gap  leading  from  the  harbor  to  the 
ocean  passed  the  noble  vessels  one  by  one,  exchanging 
salutes  as  Ihey  went  with  Fort  Preble. 

Onward  they  careered  on  their  watery  way  till  they 
became  mere  pencilings  on  the  horizon,  and  were  finally 
lost  in  night. 


Wl    ■'.^i■^^ 


•  ■     <■.  ■ '  ♦ 


»•     t    .  ; ' ,  ■ 


^■i-^ '  •■  t  ■.*,'      '' 


A,: 


■•."<i-'V 


242 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  J  OR, 


■  *  V.;. 


CONCLUDING  REFLECnONS. 


It  is  hardly  necessary  for  me  to  remark  that  the 
royal  tour,  which  in  the  foregoing  narrative  I  have 
chronicled  with  cosmopolitan  impartiality  has  been  a 
great  success  both  to  the  reigning  family  and  govern- 
ment of  England,  the  people  of  the  British  Provinces, 
and  their  neighbors  of  the  United  States.  With  the 
exception  of  the  Orange  difficulties  in  Upper  Canada, 
the  progress  of  the  Prince  of  Wales,  from  his  first 
landing  on  American  soil  to  the  day  of  his  final  de- 
parture from  it,  was  marked  with  a  series  of  the  most 
flattr .  ing  demonstrations,  not  only  from  those  he  will 
one  day  in  the  ordinary  course  of  nature  and  by  the 
constitution  of  his  country  be  called  upon  to  govern, 
but  from  the  free  people  of  a  great  and  friendly  power, 
which  although  differing  in  system  from  his  own  aims 
at  a  like  result — the  priceless  boon  of  liberty.  Wher- 
ever he  went  on  British  soil  the  inhabitants  displayed 
their  loyalty  to  the  throne  and  their  aifection  for  the 
Queen  and  that  son  who  came  among  them  as  her  rep- 
resentative. At  every  city,  town,  and  village  through 
which  he  passed  one  at  least,  and  frequently  half  a 
dozen,  addresses  of  devotion  and  welcome  were  pre- 
sented, and  as  promptly  replied  to.  I  should  have  felt 
much  satisfaction  in  printing  the  whole  of  these,  for 
they  did  equal  credit  to  the  head  and  heart,  but  the 
space  they  would  occupy  is  more  than  I  could  aflford, 
and  official  documents  of  that  kind  are,  after  all,  not 
very  lively  reading. 

The  prepossessing  appearance  and  social  qualities 
of  the  Prince  were  of  immense  assistance  in  fanning 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


243 


the  fire  of  his  popularity,  and  his  fondness  for  dancing 
aroused  the  interest  of  the  ladies  to  a  very  high  pitch 
indeed,  aye  and  of  the  men  too,  for  what  fatiier  or 
brother  would  not  like  to  see  his  daughter  or  sister 
dance  with  the  future  King  of  England?  I  knew  of 
several  official  gentlemen  who  traveled  part  of  the  way 
round  with  His  Royal  Highness,  taking  their  daughters 
or  other  lady  relatives  with  them,  merely  in  order  that 
they  might  have  the  chance  of  being  selected  as  the 
Prince's  partners,  or  even  of  enjoying  the  only  less 
delightful  honor  of  dancing  in  the  same  set  with  him. 
Many  are  the  complaints  that  I  have  heard  from  those 
who  were  disappointed  in  their  expectations  of  an  in- 
troduction to  him — that  great  object  of  feminine  am- 
bition. Many  blamed,  and  probably  with  good  reason, 
the  members  of  the  local  ball  committee,  who,  it  is 
said: 

..    c^     ,.  Sought  not  his  taste  to  please,        "        ,'        i*' 

Afiked  not  his  wishes, 
While  all  around  him  stood 
-  So  many  misses  : 

Belles  at  the  right  of  him 
.    ,     Belles  at  the  left  of  him 
Belles  all  in  front  of  him 
'  *  Young  and  full  grown ;  •,. 

While  that  committee  set, 
' '      ^        All  around  went  to  get 
Friends  of  their  own. 

^- 

The  graver  import  of  his  visit  was,  however,  in 
strengthening  the  popular  feeling  of  attachment  to  the 
mother  country.  This  result  was  equally  achieved  in 
the  British  Provinces  and  the  United  States,  in  the 
one  case  binding  the  Colonies  closer  to  the  parent  land, 
and  in  the  other,  securing  more  firmly  the  general  in- 
terests of  the  two  great  sections  oTthe  Anglo  Saxon 
race,  as  represented  by  Great  Britain  and  the  United 
States.  The  sentiment  expressed  on  several  occasions 
by  Lord  Lyons,  the  British  Minister  at  Washington, 
who  accompanied  His  Royal  Highness  from  the  land- 


i*s 


m 


r 


H   ,U 


:  •  if.'.     -' 


t\:y 


244 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


ing  at  Quebec  to  the  departure  from  Portland,  and 
whose  already  high  popularity  was  widened  by  the 
excellent  manner  in  which  he  performed  •  the  duties 
which  devolved  upon  him  during  this  time  in  his  oflB- 
cial  replies  to  various  American  citizens,  and  particu- 
larly the  Chicago  Committee,  was  extremely  gratify- 
ing to  the  people  of  the  United  States.  So,  also,  was 
the  following  letter  from  His  Grace  of  Newcastle  to 
the  Mayor  of  Boston,  which  is  so  emphatic  and  true 
to  the  feeling  in  America  as  to  hardly  need  comment : 

"  I  cannot  say  with  what  kindness  the  Prince  has  been  received  in 
those  cities  which  he  has  yet  visited  in  the  United  States.  If  each 
individual  had  been  instructed  what  to  do,  the  whole  people  could 
not  have  shown  greater  delicacy  of  feeling  and  consideration  for  the 
position  he  occupies  in  England,  though  without  the  slightest  surren- 
der of  their  own  claims  to  independence  of  action.  They  have  all 
looked  upon  him  as  a  guest,  and  resolved  to  treat  him  as  such,  but 
without  overdoing  the  character  of  host. 

"In  return,  of  course,  every  eflfort  has  been  made,  and  shall  continue 
to  be  made  elsewhere,  to  gratify  the  amiable  curiosity  of  our  good 
cousins  to  see  the  eon  of  a  Queen  whom  they  love  and  respect  almost 
as  much  as  we  do." 


It  may  well  be  said  in  England  that  such  words  are 
more  than  mere  words,  and  that  all  such  real  kind- 
nesses on  the  one  side,  and  prompt  acknowledgments 
on  the  other,  are  sure  to  bear  good  fruit  in  all  future 
relations  between  the  two  nations. 

To  the  Prince,  personally,  the  tour  must  have  been 
one  of  no  less  pleasure  than  profit,  although  it  was  a 
task  which  few  in  any  other  position  would  have  had 
either  the  boldness  to  undertake,  or  the  industry  to 
accomplish  within  so  short  a  period.  He  has  been 
thereby  versed  in  the  school  both  of  nature  and  human 
nature,  to  which  a  voyage  across  the  Atlantic  was  a 
good  introduction,  and  another  back  again  a  satisfac- 
tory wind-up.  It  is  true  that  he  endured  no  small 
amount  of  hard  work  during  his  travels,  extending 
over  more  than  five  thousand  miles  and  performed  in 
less  than  three  months,  between  his  first  landing  in 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


245 


America  and  his  final  departure,  but  to  a  youth  with 
such  excellent  stamina,  and  such  a  flow  of  good  spirits 
and  love  of  adventure  as  he  proved  himself  possessed 
of,  it  must  have  been  most  cheerfully  endured,  while 
the  positive  enjoyment  with  which  it  was  mingled 
made  the  effect  only  similar  to  that  of  dancing  with 
the  lovely  of  the  land  at  a  ball  all  night. 

Nature  in  the  New  World  opened  to  his  view  vistas 
of  stupendous  lakes,  and  rivers  to  which  those  of  Eu- 
rope are  as  rivulets,  vast  prairies,  the  grandest  cata- 
ract under  the  sun,  and  a  country,  not  only  majestic  in 
its  physical,  but  in  its  social  aspect.  He  has  visited 
great  cities  that  only  a  few  years  ago  were  great  wil- 
dernesses, and  he  has  been  enabled  to  glance,  although 
hastily,  at  the  moral  and  political  phenomena  of  pop- 
ular sovereignty  which  has  earned  for  the  United 
States  the  reputation  of  being  the  school  of  statesmen 
and  the  study  of  philosophers.  He  has  observed  the 
general  prosperity  of  tlie  people,  a  consequence  of 
their  indomitable  energy,  industry,  and  perseverance, 
their  intelligence  and  free  institutions.  What  other 
duch  splendid  example  of  the  advantages  of  self-gov- 
ernment could  he  have  had  than  was  here  afforded 
him  ?  There  was  nothing  so  much  calculated  to  imbue 
his  mind  with  wide  and  generous  sympathies  with  his 
fel]ow-creatures,  and  to  inspire  him  with  a  noble  con- 
fidence in  the  destiny  of  that  great  republic — that  glo- 
rious Union  which  from  one  extremity  of  the  globe  to 
the  other,  is  no  less  the  wonder  nian  the  envy  of  man- 
kind, and  the  unexampled  progress  and  prosperity  of 
which  commands  universal  respect  throughout  the  en- 
tire realm  of  civilization.  Such  a  great  and  valuable 
lesson  to  one,  in  such  a  position,  is  certain  not  to  be 
otherwise  than  productive  of  the  most  happy  results 
in  every  way,  especially  when  coupled  with  the  many 
pleasant  associations  of  his  visit. 

The  next  prominent  event  in  his  history  may  be  a 
voyage  to  India,  where  the  prestige  of  royalty  is  so 


!  iii  I 


I  .4 


246 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;    OR, 


great  that  he  would  be  certaiDi  to  meet  with  a  splendid 
reception.  The  effect  of  which  upon  the  native  popu- 
lation could  not  fail  in  being  highly  conciliatory  and 
beneficial  to  Britisli  intereats.  Australia  is  so  re- 
motely situated  that  tlie  chances  in  favor  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales  visiting  its  shores  are  few.  But  I  can  vouch 
for  the  delight  the  colonists  would  feel  at  even  the 
prospect  of  such  an  event,  and  I  can  imagine  the  mag- 
niticent  sequel.  It  is  highly  probable,  nevertheless, 
that  Prince  Alfred  or  one  of  his  younger  brothers 
will,  at  no  distant  period,  make  his  appearance 

**  By  the  long  wash  of  Australasian  seas." 

In  a  former  part  of  this  work  I  have  made  allusion 
to  a  very  probable  occurrence,  namely  the  formation 
of  all  the  British  North  American  Colonies  into  an 
United  Confederacy,  extending  from  Canada  on  the 
east,  to  British  Columbia  on  the  west,  and  St.  John's, 
Newfoundland,  to  tlie  Red  Eiver  Settlement.  The 
project  here  held  out  is  one  the  merits  of  which  I 
could  illustrate  at  considerable  length,  but  I  shall  con- 
tent myself  with  a  few  words.  There  is,  I  am  con- 
vinced, from  personal  inquiry,  a  strong  popular  feeling 
in  the  Provinces,  favorable  to  such  a  consolidation. 
Indeed  I  may  call  it  a  popular  aspiration.  In  the 
Red  River  Settlement  the  people  are  sadly  in  want  of 
a  government,  and  British  Columbia,  a  highly  promis- 
ing country,  is  by  its  isolation  just  as  much  in  want  of 
an  Atlantic  connection,  as  Louis  Napoleon,  when  he 
became  Emperor  of  France,  was  of  a  royal  one.  The 
North  American  Colonies  combined  have  a  popula- 
tion of  more  than  four  millions — a  number,  consider- 
ing also  the  abundance  of  their  public  works,  and 
their  advanced  civilization,  well  capable  of  forming  a 
powerful  empire,  capable  at  any  time  of  withstanding 
aggression. 

The  pride  of  having  a  national  name  and  a  national 
character  on  a  wider  scale  than  the  present,  may  have 


THE  PBINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


247 


much  to  do  with  the  popular  sentiment  in  favor  of 
such  an  organization.  The  hope  of  increased  digni- 
ties arising  from  an  extended  government,  and  the 
prestige  of  a  greater  name  may  also  contribute  to  tlio 
impulse.  But  for  me,  it  is  enough  to  say  that  it  ex- 
ists, and  I  have  every  reason  to  believe  that  the  policy 
of  the  Home  Government  inclines  in  this  direction, 
and  only  requires  time  to  reach  its  maturity.  Before 
concluding  these  reflections,  I  must  say  a  word  for 
the  people  of  British  America,  of  whose  hospitality 
and  kindness  generally  I  have  the  most  lively  recol- 
lection, If  by  my  impartiality  I  have  disappointed 
some  of  them,  they  must  refer  the  matter  of  that  dis- 
appointment to  its  proper  cause — my  entire  freedom 
from  local  prejudices.  Any  man  may  be  proud  in 
claiming  Canada  for  his  home  or  birthplace,  and  if 
my  footsteps  ever  wander  in  tnat  direction  again  I 
shall  feel  unminsled  satisfaction. 


'he 
ila- 


ng 


'^  .'■  .'. 


'    1' 


248 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


SUMMARY  OF  THE  PRINCE'S  TOUR. 


The  visit  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  to  the  British 
Provinces  and  the  United  States  is  one  of  those  great 
historical  events  which  will  be  handed  down  to  pos- 
terity for  all  time,  and  be  treasured  up  by  the  peoples 
of  the  two  nations  forever. 

The  first  inception  of  the  Prince's  visit,  it  may  be 
remembered,  was  from  the  Canadians  themselves,  who 
petitioned  the  Queen  to  send  one  of  the  royal  family, 
as  she  herself  would  not  be  able  to  attend,  to  inaugu- 
rate the  opening  of  the  Victoria  Bridge  at  Montreal. 
It  certainly  was  never  contemplated  that  the  heir 
apparent  would  be  selected  for  that  purpose — popular 
expectation  being  satisfied  with  some  smaller  person- 
age. It  pleased  the  Queen,  however,  to  send  the 
young  Prince  of  Wales  himself  to  visit  the  Western 
possessions  of  his  imperial  mother,  and  at  the  same 
time  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  United  States.  Never  has 
monarch  arrived  at  so  wise  a  determination ;  for  the 
lessons  to  be  derived  from  the  visit  of  the  young  Al- 
bert Edward  to  America  can  hardly  fail  to  impress 
the  future  King  Edward  the  Seventh  in  such  a  man- 
ner as  to  lead  to  the  full  recognition  of  the  rights  of 
the  people,  throughout  his  illimitable  dominions,  on 
which,  according  to  popular  tradition,  the  sun  never 
sets. 

It  will  be  remembered  that,  in  accordance  with  this 
arrangement,  President  Buchanan  wrote  an  autograph 
letter  to  the  Queen,  inviting  the  young  Prince  to  visit 
Washington  and  the  United  States  in  general,  in  his 
passage  through  the  most  interesting  poi-tions  of  the 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


249 


continent.  The  letter  of  the  President  and  the  reply 
of  the  Queen  to  her  "  good  friend,"  were  published 
simultaneously  in  the  American  newspapers,  and  ran 
thus :  . 

LETTER  FROM  THE  PRESIDENT  TO  THE  QUEEN. 

To  Her  Majesty  Qdken  Victoria  : 

I  have  learned  from  the  public  journals  that  the  Prince  of  Wales  is 
about  to  visit  Your  Majesty's  North  American  dominions.  Should  it 
be  the  intention  of  His  Royal  Highness  to  extend  his  visit  to  the 
United  States,  I  need  not  say  how  happy  I  should  be  to  give  him  a 
cordial  welcome  to  Washington. 

You  may  be  well  assured  that  everywhere  in  this  country  he  will 
be  greeted  by  the  American  people  in  such  a  manner  as  cannot  fail 
to  prove  gratifying  to  Your  Majesty.  In  this  they  will  manifist  their 
deep  sense  of  your  domestic  virtues,  as  well  as  their  convictions  of 
your  merits  as  a  wise  patriot  and  constitutional  sovereign.  Your 
Majesty's  most  obedient  servant,  JAM£1S  BUCHANAN. 

Washinoton,  June  4,  1860. 


THE  QUEEN'S  REPLY. 

Buckingham  Palace,  June  22,  1860. 

Mt  Good  Friend, — I  have  been  much  gratified  at  the  feeling  which 
prompted  you  to  write  to  me,  inviting  the  Prince  of  Wales  to  come  to 
Washington.  He  intends  to  return  from  Canada  through  the  United 
States,  and  it  will  give  him  ^ceat  pleasure  to  have  an  opportunity  of 
testifying  to  you  in  person  that  these  feelings  are  fully  reciprocated 
by  him.  He  will  thus  be  able,  at  the  same  time,  to  mark  the  respect 
which  he  entertains  for  the  Chief  Magistrate  of  a  great  and  friendly 
State  and  kindred  nation. 

The  Prince  of  Wales  will  drop  all  royal  state  on  leaving  my  domin- 
ions, and  travel  under  the  name  of  Lord  Renfrew,  as  he  has  done 
when  traveling  on  the  Continent  of  Europe. 

The  Prince  Consort  wishes  to  be  kindly  remembered  to  you.  I 
remain  ever,  your  good  friend,  VICTORIA  R. 

In  this  affair  the  Queen  did  herself  honor  in  honor- 
ing the  United  States,  by  announcing  that  in  passing 
the  frontiers  which  divide  the  British  Provinces  from 
the  States,  His  Royal  Highness  would  drop  all  royal 
state,  and  assume  tlie  lowest  title  to  which  he  could  lay 
claim — the  rather  uncouth  one  of  Baron  Renfrew,  de- 
rived from  a  small  Scottish  town,  situated  in  a  county 


250 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW   WORLD;    OR, 


of  the  same  name,  with  the  addition  of  "  shire"  at  the 
end,  making  up  the  rather  uneuphonious  name  of 
"  Renfrewshire.  Many  and  rich  were  the  jokes  of 
the  London  papers  on  the  assumption  by  the  Prince  of 
this  rather  out-of-the-way  title,  and  Mr.  Punch  distin- 
guished himself  by  suggesting  Sir  Edward  Chester, 
Duke  of  Cornwall,  Mr.  Guelph  (pronounced  Welf ) 
and  a  whole  lot  of  other  nomenclature.  But  the  Queen 
and  the  Prince,  and  their  advisers,  were  deaf  to  all 
these  suggestions,  and  as  Baron  Renfrew  it  was  ar- 
ranged that  the  Prince  of  Wales,  Duke  of  Cornwall, 
and  a  whol o  host  of  et  ceteras,  too  numerous  to  men- 
tion, i  IS  be  distinguished  in  the  United  States,  and 
as  Bi  ;:  li.;  nfrew  he  traveled  accordingly. 
And  f  0  5?  t  i  +he  summary. 


*i- 


•  /'  ■  '  "V  i.i.- 


._,-*;    , 


,.v.» 


r- 


JULY. 


10.  The  Prince  of  Wales  and  suite,  consisting  of 
the  Duke  of  Newcastle,  the  Earl  of  St.  Germains, 
General  Bruce,  Major  Teesdale,  Captain  Grey,  Dr. 
Acland,  and  others,  embark  on  board  the  steamship 
Hero  at  Plymouth. 

23.  The  Hero,  with  the  Prince  on  board,  accompa- 
nied by  the  Ariadne,  enter  the  port  of  St.  John's,  New- 
foundland, and  cast  anchor,  at  seven  o'clock  P.M., 
under  a  royal  salute.  In  consequence  of  a  heavy  fall 
of  rain,  the  royal  party  sleep  on  board  the  Hero. 

24.  Landing  of  the  Prince,  under  a  royal  salute 
from  the  Citadel,  tlie  vessels  of  war  Ariadne  and  Fly- 
ing Fish,  and  the  French  war  steamer  Sesostris.  The 
yards  of  these  vessels  are  all  manned,  and  the  Prince 
is  received  bv  Governor  Sir  Alexander  Bannerman, 
and  driven  to  the  Government  House,  under  an  escort 
of  volunteer  troops,  accompanied  by  a  procession  of 
the  several  patriotic  and  trade  societies. 

25.  The  great  ball  at  St,  John's.  Newfoundland. 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


251 


26.  The  Prince  holds  a  levee,  after  which  he  embarks 
for  Halifax,  Nova  Scotia. 

30.  Arrival  of  the  Prince  at  Halifax  at  ten  o'clock 
A.M.,  under  a  royal  salute  and  in  the  midst  of  a  vio- 
lent rain-storm.  He  is  received  by  Lord  Mulgrave,  ohe 
Governor, the  Mayor,  and  Corporation,  with  an  addrciis, 
to  which  he  makes  a  suitable  reply. 
(31.  Review  of  troops  in  the  midst  of  a  drenching 
rain.  In  the  evening,  a  grand  ball  is  given  in  the  Pro- 
vincial Building,  which  is  opened  by  the  Prince  with 
Lady  Mulgrave. 


';% 


AUGUST. 


te 
ly- 
^he 


1.  A  regatta  takes  place  during  "'.le  day,  which  is 
succeeded  by  a  display  of  fire-works  in   he  evening. 

2.  The  Prince  leaves  Halifax  for  "Vindsor  by  special 
train,  at  seven  o'clock  A.M.,  amid  great  demonstra- 
tions of  loyalty,  where  he  arrives  i '  half-past  eight. 
He  then  embarks  on  board  the  St  x  for  St.  John's,  New 
Brunswick,  where  he  arrives  at  ^alf-past  ten  o'clock 
P.M.,  after  a  pleasant  run  in  the  Bay  of  Fundy.  He 
is  welcomed  with  a  royal  salute  at  St.  John's,  and  re- 
ceives an  address  from  the  Mayor  and  Corporation,  to 
which  he  responds. 

5.  His  Royal  Highness  attends  Divine  service  in 
the  Cathedral. 

6.  He  attends  a  ball  given  in  his  honor,  at  which  six 
hundred  persons  are  present. 

7.  Leaves  St.  John's  for  Prince  Edward's  Island. 
9.  Lands  at  Charlottetown,  Prince  Edward's  Island, 

from  the  Hero,  after  a  pleasant  passage.  The  Hero 
is  accompanied  by  the  Nile,  the  flagship  of  Admiral 
Sir  Alexander  Milne,  the  Cossack,  Valorous,  and  Fly- 
ing Fish,  and  the  French  Commodore's  ship  Pomona. 
The  royal  party  are  received  at  the  wharf  by  the  gov- 
ernment officers  and  the  public  functionaries,  the  clergy, 


252 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  :  OR, 


members  of  the  bar,  and  the  most  prominent  citizens. 
He  is  escorted  to  Government  House  by  a  volunteer 
force.  In  the  evening  he  is  present  at  a  ball  at  the 
Colonial  Buildings. 

11.  Leaves  Government  House  and  proceeds  to  the 
Colonial  Buildings,  where  he  receives  an  address  from 
both  branches  of  the  Legislature,  to  which  ho  replies; 
after  which  he  leaves  for  Gaspe,  under  a  salute  from 
the  ships  of  war. 

12.  Arrival  at  Gaspe  Bay  amid  great  excitement 
and  a  general  outburst  of  loyalty ;  the  houses  are 
illuminated,  the  Governor  goes  on  board  the  Hero, 
and  has  an  interview  with  the  Prince. 

13.  The  Prince's  standard  is  hoisted,  and  receives  a 
royal  salute  from  Fort  Ramsay.  On  leaving  the 
harbor  the  Hero  runs  aground,  but  is  got  off  without 
injury.  At  half-past  one  o'clock  P.M.  the  squadron 
makes  sail. 

14.  Meeting  of  citizens  in  New  York,  at  which  it  is 
agreed  to  invite  the  Prince  to  a  dinner  at  the  Academy 
of  Music  on  his  arrival  in  the  city. 

15.  His  Royal  Highness  lands  at  Saguenay,  the 
houses  of  which  are  handsomely  decorated  with  flags, 
and  where  the  Hero  again  runs  aground,  but  floats  two 
hours  after.  Lord  Lyons  arrives  from  Washington 
and  joins  the  royal  party.  The  squadron  again  sails 
for  Quebec,  passing  Ha-Ha  Bay  and  other  points  of 
interest  on  the  route. 

18.  Arrival  at  Quebec.  The  Prince  lands  amid 
great  enthusiasm,  and  is  received  by  the  Mayor  and 
Corporation,  members  of  the  Cabinet,  and  the  Angli- 
can and  Roman  Catholic  bishops  and  clergy.  The 
squadron  receives  a  royal  salute.  The  royal  party,  in 
the  midst  of  a  down-pour  of  rain,  proceed,  under  a 
piilitary  escort,  to  the  residence  of  the  Governor.  The 
day  is  turned  into  a  general  holiday.  The  evening 
closes  with  an  illumination. 
■    19.  The  Prince  attends  Divine  service  at  the  En- 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


253 


glish  cathedral,  after  which  he  pays  a  visit  to  the 
Heights  of  Abraham,  and  views  General  Wolfe's  mon- 
ument, and  the  place  where  Montgomery  fell.  The 
fortifications  were  also  inspected,  and  one  can  almost 
imagine  that  the  royal  youth  recalled  to  mind  the 
delectable  quatrain  in  which  a  poet  thus  described 
the  ascent  of  General  Wolfe  to  the  Heights  of  Abra- 
ham: 

He  murched  without  dread  or  fears 

At  the  head  of  his  bold  grenadiers ; 

And  what's  most  remarkable,  nay,  very  particular, 

He  climbed  up  rocks  that  were  perpendicular. 

20.  He  pays  a  visit  to  Chaudiere  Falls,  and  receives 
a  delegation  from  Rhode  Island,  inviting  him  to  visit 
that  State. 

21.  He  formally  takes  up  his  residence  at  the  Par- 
liament House,  where  he  holds  a  levee  and  receives 
addresses  and  deputations  in  the  Council  Chamber,  on 
which  occasion  he  confers  the  honor  of  knighthood,  by 
the  accolade,  on  the  Hon.  Narcisse  Belleau,  Speaker 
of  the  Legislative  Council,  and  the  Hon.  Henry  Smith, 
Speaker  of  tlie  Assembly. 

22.  Ball  given  by  the  citizenF,  which  the  Prince  at- 
tends. He  falls  with  his  partner  while  dancing,  but 
recovers  himself  in  a  moment.  Brilliant  display  of 
fire-works,  during  which  a  stage  falls,  and  seriously 
injures  several  persons. 

23.  His  Royal  Highness  leaves  Quebec  for  Montreal, 
in  the  steamer  Kingston.  On  their  way  up  the  royal 
party  stop  at  Three  Rivers,  where  the  Prince  receives 
a  royal  salute  from  the  Royal  Artillery.  The  land- 
ing is  handsomely  decorated  with  evergreens.  The 
Prince  is  received  by  the  Mayor  and  Corporation,  the 
clergy,  public  officials,  and  citizens  generally.  A  State 
dinner  is  given,  which  the  Catholic  bishops  refuse  to 
attend,  because  the  Prince  in  his  reply  to  their  address 
did  not  style  them  "  my  lords"  or  "  gentlemen." 


254 


ROYALTY  IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


24.  His  Royal  Highness  arrives  at  Montreal,  amid 
the  thunders  of  cannon  and  every  demonstration  of 
loyalty.  In  consequence  of  a  heavy  down-pour  of  rain, 
the  illuminations,  which  were  arranged  to  take  place 
this  evening,  were  postponed  to  the  following  night. 
The  Prince  announced  that  he  would  not  land  publicly 
till  next  day,  though  it  is  supposed  that  he  landed  pri- 
vately, and  slept  that  night  at  the  residence  of  Sir  W. 
F.  Williams.  Much  ill-feeling  existing  between  the 
French  and  the  English  inhabitants — the  former  out- 
numbering the  latter  in  their  display  of  national  flags. 
In  loading  a  gun  to  fire  a  salute,  three  sailors  belong- 
ing to  the  Flying  Fish  and  one  belonging  to  the  Val- 
orous are  killed  by  a  premature  discharge. 

25.  His  Royal  Highness  disembarks  at  ten  o'clock 
A.M.,  and  a  grand  military,  civic,  and  clerical  proces- 
sion is  formed,  by  which  the  Prince  is  escorted  to  the 
Crystal  Palace,  which  he  inaugurates  formally.  He 
then  proceeds  to  the  Victoria  Bridge,  which  he  opens 
with  due  solemnity.  [This  was  the  principal  object  of 
the  Prince's  visit  to  Canada.]  The  Boston  Fusileers 
take  part  in  i\\e  reception — a  compliment  with  which 
the  Prince  is  much  gratified.  The  ceremonies  close 
with  a  grand  dejeuner, 

26.  The  Prince  attends  Divine  service  at  the  Prot- 
estant Episcopal  cathedral,  and  hears  a  sermonfrom 
Bishop  Fulford.  Great  crowds  inside  and  outside  the 
church. 

27.  Indian  games,  at  which  the  Prince  and  suite 
attend,  and  are  much  amused.  The  New  York  Com- 
mittee wait  on  the  Prince,  and  tender  him  an  invita- 
tion to  a  grand  banquet.  The  Prince  accepts  the 
invitajon,  but  prefers  a  ball,  which  is  subsequently 
acceded  to  by  the  general  committee.  The  great 
Montreal  ball  takes  place  to  night,  in  the  building 
specially  erected  for  the  occasion.  Gorgeous  deco- 
rations, and  a  brilliant  display  of  wealth,  beauty,  and 
fashion.    The  ball  cost  about  $40,000. 


THE   PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


255 


28.  Great  musical  festival,  at  wliicli  about  eight 
thousand  persons  are  present. 

29.  His  Royal  Highness  visits  Logan's,  where  ho 
reviews  fifteen  hundred  volunteers.     From  there  he 

Proceeds  to  Lachine,  where  ho  witnesses  a  number  of 
ndians  at  tlieir  games  and  canoe  races.     He  extends 
his  trip  to  Caughnawaga,  and  returns  to  Montreal. 

30.  Visits  Slierbrooke,  ninety  miles  from  Montreal, 
and  several  places  of  interest  intermediate.  At  St. 
Hyacin'th  he  is  escorted  by  two  hundred  Jesuit  priests 
to  their  college,  where  he  receives  an  address  in 
French  and  English.  At  Brampton  Falls  he  inspects 
Bome  of  the  largest  saw-mills  in  America.  At  Sher- 
brooke  he  restores  to  his  rank  in  the  navy  a  Mr.  Fel- 
ton,  who  was  signal  midshipman  to  Lord  Nelson  at 
Trafalgar,  and  who  had  been  unjustly  dismissed  the 
service.  At  half-past  six  P.M.  he  returns  and  attends 
the  people's  ball,  but  does  not  dance. 

31.  Leaves  for  Ottawa. 


>;'..-        ^        *  SEPTEMBER. 

1.  His  Royal  Highness  arrives  at  Ottawa,  the  little 
city  fixed  upon  by  the  Queen  herself  (in  council,  of 
course,)  as  the  future  capital  of  the  Canadas,  though 
the  Canadians  themselves,  who  chose  the  Queen  as  the 
umpire  in  the  matter,  seem  disposed  to  repudiate  the 
arrangement,  where  he  is  greeted  with  the  same  en- 
thusiasm which  met  him  throughout  the  route.  He 
there  lays  the  corner-stone  of  the  new  Houses  of 
Parliament  with  much  solemnity. 

2.  The  Prince  attends  Divine  service  at  Christ 
Church. 

3.  He  rides  i^  an  open  carriage  to  the  little  village 
of  Aylmer,  en  route  for  Kingston.  Arrives  at  Brock- 
ville  at  eight  o'clock  P.M.,  and  is  escorted  through  the 
town  by  a  firemen's  torch-light  procession — the  first 


M: 


256 


ROYALTY  IN   THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


the  Prince  has  ever  seen,  and  at  which  he  is  surprised. 
Troubles  are  apprehended  at  Kingston,  from  the  de- 
termination of  the  Orangemen  to  erect  Orange  arches 
and  organize  processions  of  the  order,  with  tlieir  obnox- 
ious banners  and  other  paraphernalia,  at  whicli  the 
Roman  Catholics  take  offence.  The  Duke  of  New- 
castle, to  avoid  a  collision,  whicli  may  be  attended 
with  effusion  of  blood,  sends  word  on  to  Kingston 
that  lie  will  not  allow  the  Prince  to  pass  through  any- 
arch  decorated  with  party  devices,  nor  take  part  in 
any  demonstrations  in  which  party  symbols  are  used. 

4.  Arrival  at  Kingston,  amid  great  excitement,  in 
consequence  of  the  firm  attitude  of  the  Duke  of  New- 
castle. Stormy  meeting  of  the  City  Council.  The 
Mayor  informs  the  Council  that  the  Prince  will  con- 
sent to  land  if  the  contemplated  Orange  procession  is 
given  up,  but  not  otherwise,  which  is  far  from  satis- 
factory. Third  Grand  Master  Cameron  orders  the 
Orangemen  to  give  up  the  position  they  have  assumed, 
but  he  is  met  with  the  response  of  "  No  surrender." 
The  Prince  remains  on  board  the  steamer ;  but  his 
suite,  with  the  exception  of  the  Duke  of  Newcastle 
and  the  Earl  St.  Germains,  disembark. 

5.  The  Orangemen  continue  obstinate  and  the  Prince 
refuses  to  land,  causing  great  excitement.  The  "  Mar- 
seillaise" is  insultingly  played  opposite  the  steamer. 
The  Prii  ce  offers  to  receive  the  address  of  the  Mayor 
and  Corporation  on  board,  but  the  City  Council  pass 
a  resolution  refusing  to  present  it  anywhere  else  but 
on  shore.  The  Magistrates,  however,  present  an  ad- 
dress on  board,  which  is  received  and  replied  to  by 
the  Prince,  regretting  that  circumstances  should  have 
prevented  him  from  landing.  The  Orangemen  hold 
out  threats  to  follow  the  Prince  to  Toronto,  or  wher- 
ever he  might  go. 

6.  Arrival  of  the  royal  party  at  Belleville,  where 
similar  riotous.demonstrations  await  them  as  at  Kings- 
ton, in  consequence  of  which  the  Prince  refuses  to 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


257 


land,  and  passes  on  to  Cobourg,  where  there  are  no 
signs  of  Orangeism.  The  Prince  lands,  and  is  re- 
ceived with  every  demonstration  of  loyalty,  and  he 
attends  a  ball  in  the  evening. 

7.  The  Prince  takes  a  special  train  from  Cobourg 
at  ten  o'clock  A.M.,  and  arrives  at  Peterboro,  cross- 
ing Rice  Lake  on  a  steamer.  He  is  received  at 
Peterboro  by  a  procession.  From  Peterboro  he  de- 
parts for  Port  Hope,  which  he  reaches  at  two  P.M., 
where  there  is  another  procession,  by  which  he  is  con- 
veyed to  the  Court  House,  where  he  partakes  of  a 
dejeuner  and  receives  addresses  from  the  civic  func- 
tionaries. From  Port  Hope  he  proceeds  to  Whitby, 
where  he  arrives  at  three  o'clock.  Leaving  this  latter 
place,  he  reaches  Toronto  at  half-past  six  P.M.  Here 
he  finds  that  the  Orangemen  had  submitted,  and  have 
but  one  arch  remaining,  winch  the  Prince  and  suite 
carefully  avoid  during  their  stay  in  the  city.  The 
Prince  lands,  and  is  received  with  deafening  cheers. 
He  receives  an  address  from  the  Corporation,  and  is 
escorted  to  Government  House,  which  he  reaches  at 
nine  P.M.    The  city  is  brilliantly  illuminated. 

8.  This  morning  the  Prince  holds  a  levee,  and  in 
the  evening  he  attends  a  ball  given  by  the  members  of 
the  bar.  An  angry  correspondence  takes  place  be- 
tween the  Duke  of  Newcastle  and  the  Mayor,  on  the 
subject  of  the  solitary  arch. 

9.  The  Prince  attends  Divine  service,  carefully 
avoiding  the  arch  in  his  way  to  and  fro.  Largo  mul- 
titudes collect  around  the  church.  In  the  evening 
the  Duke  of  Newcastle  and  the  Governor,  while 
taking  a  walk,  are  grossly  insulted  for  advising  the 
Prince  against  passing  through  the  arch. 

10.  Starts  for  Collingwood,  ninety-five  miles'  dis- 
tant, by  special  train.  On  passing  the  town  of  Auro- 
ra, and  other  places  on  the  route,  Orange  arches  are 
teen  erected.     Arrival  at  Collingwood. 

11.  The  Prince  joins  a  yacht  club,  lays  a  corner- 


(■''f 


258 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  J   OR, 


atone  of  tlie  Queen's  statue,  and  plants  a  tree  in  the 
Botanic  Gardens.  He  pays  a  visit  to  the  University 
and  tlie  Normal  School,  holds  a  levee,  receives  ad- 
dresses and  attends  a  ball  in  the  evening. 

13.  Arrives  at  London,  where  he  is  received  with 
the  utmost  enthusiasm  and  respect. 

15.  His  Royal  Highness  leaves  London  by  special 
train  on  the  Great  Western  Railroad,  and  arrives  at 
"Woodstock.  In  a  pavilion  at  the  Mayor's  residence 
he  receives  several  addresses,  and  then  leaves  for 
Paris,  where  be  changes  his  cars  for  those  of  the  Buf- 
falo and  Lake  Huron  Railroad.  At  Brantford  he 
finds  a  line  of  little  girls,  who  strew  flowers  in  his 
way.  He  receives  addresses  from  some  Indians.  At 
Fort  Erie,  after  receiving  an  address,  he  embarks  in  a 
steamer  for  Chippewa.  His  Royal  Highness  arrives 
at  Niagara  Falls,  and  spends  some  time  in  examining 
this  stupendous  work  of  nature.  He  witnesses  Blon- 
din's  performances  on  the  rope  stretched  across  the 
boiling  gulf. 

16.  He  attends  Divine  service  at  Chippewa. 

17.  Arrival  at  Queenstown  Heights,  and  reception 
of  an  address  from  the  veterans  of  1812. 

18.  The  Prince  is  received  at  Hamilton  by  several 
hundred  farmers  with  every  demonstration  of  loyalty. 

19.  He  receives  several  addresses,  and  visits  the 
Central  Public  School,  where  he  is  again  addressed 
by  the  trustees  in  presence  of  four  thousand  children. 
In  the  evening  His  Royal  Highness  attends  a  ball, 
given  in  a  building  specially  erected  for  the  occasion, 
adjoining  the  Anglo-American  Hotel. 

20.  Visit  to  the  Provincial  Exhibition,  where  His 
Royal  Highness  is  addressed  by  the  President  of  the 
Agricultural  Society.  He  takes  lunch  at  Dunburn 
Castle,  tiie  residence  of  Sir  Allan  McNab,  after  which 
he  leaves  for  Detroit,  Michigan,  by  the  Great  Western 
Railroad,  at  two  o'clock  P.M.,  passing  the  frontiers 
between  the   Canadas  and  the   United  States.     His 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


259 


Royal  Highness  is  supposed  to  have  dropped  all  royal 
state,  and  to  have  assumed  the  comparatively  modest 
style  and  title  of  Baron  Renfrew.  He  arrives  at  De- 
troit in  the  evening,  where  he  experiences,  among 
democratic  Americans,  as  enthusiastic  a  reception  as 
any  that  greeted  him  through  the  provinces  of  mon- 
archical England.  There  is  a  general  illumination 
and  torch-light  procession,  and  he  is  escorted  to  his 
hotel  by  multitudes  of  citizens,  all  vicing  with  each 
other  to  do  honor  to  Victoria's  eldest  son. 

21.  The  morning  is  passed  in  a  series  of  visits  to 
the  most  notable  places  in  the  city,  and  a  glad  wel- 
come meets  the  Prince  everywhere.  He  leaves  for 
Chicago,  III.,  at  ten  o'clock,  whicli  he  readies  in  the 
evening,  when  the  reception  he  met  at  Detroit  is 
duplicated. 

22.  The  Prince  visits  several  objects  of  interest  in 
company  with  Mayor  Wentvvorth,  especially  the  grain 
elevators,  which  he  views  with  surprise,  fje  remains 
in  the  balcony  of  the  hotel  for  some  time  at  the  re- 
quest of  the  people,  who  evince  their  anxiety  to  see 
him  by  their  immense  numbers.  He  is  astonished  at 
the  account  given  him  of  the  rapid  growth  and 
present  prosperity  of  Chicago.  He  leaves  for  ttie 
prairies,  and  arrives  at  Dwight  Station  in  the  even- 
ing, where  he  has  a  rehearsal  of  next  day's  sport 
before  supper. 

23.  His  Royal  Highness  attends  the  Presbyterian 
church  at  Dwight. 

24.  Shooting  of  prairie  chickens.    Not  much  sport. 

25.  Leaves  Dwight  for  Stewart's  Grove,  where  the 
royal  party  have  better  sport,  quail  shooting.  Return 
to  Dwight. 

27.  The  royal  party  leave  Dwight  for  St.  Louis, 
Mo.,  where  they  arrive  early  in  the  evening,  and  meet 
with  an  eni'iusiastic  reception. 

28.  The  royal  visit  to  the  Agricultural  Fair,  at 
which  one  hundred  thousand  persons    arc  present 


•1:! 

,  I! 
il 

illi 

■  If): 

:| 
W 


260 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


Grand  ovation  to  the  Prince.    The  loyal  party  oviuce 
their  judgment  respecting  cattle  ar  ^  hoD^vs 

29.  The  Prince  and  suite  arrive  at  Jiaoimuitl,  Ohio, 
ahd  visit  the  p\^geries.  The  eveo'ing  vvlr'I?  m  with 
a  ball,  given  by  the  Porkopolitans  to  tlio  Frmcc,  who 
is  as  popular  as  everywhere  else  on  his  route. 

30.  The  royal  party  attend  Divine  service  at  St. 
John's  Church,  when  Bishop  Mcllvaine  preaches  the 
sermon. 


&;; 


OCTOBER. 

2.  The  Prince  reaches  Pittsburg,  Pa.,  where  he  is 
enthusiastically  received  by  Mayor  Wilson  and  the 
Corporation,  and  the  citizens  generally.  The  Mayor 
addresses  the  Prince.  His  Royal  Highness  is  surprised 
at  the  magnitude  of  the  factories  in  Pittsburg,  which 
he  and  his»suite  call  the  Manchester  of  America.  The 
evening  winds  up  with  an  illumination  and  a  serenade 
to  the  Prince,  who  leaves  for  Harrisbuig.  where  ho 
arrives  at  eleven  P.M.  All  along  the  route  he  re- 
ceives shouts  of  welcome,  and  at  Hairisburg  he  's 
favored  with  a  serenade. 

3.  The  Prince  drives  to  the  Capitol,  accompanied 
by  his  suite,  at  nine  A.M.,  where  he  receives  iin  ad- 
dress from  Governor  Parker.  From  Hari  isburg  he 
departs  for  Baltimore,  where  he  is  met  at  the  depot 

by  the  City  Counc" 5i  band  playing  "  God  save  the 

Queen."  Leaving  !>..lamore  by  special  train,  the 
royal  party  reach  Washington  at  four  P.M.,  amid 
thunders  of  artillery.  The  Prince  is  received  l)y 
General  Cass,  who  conducts  him,  under  an  escort,  to 
the  White  House,  where  he  is  presented  to  President 
Buchanan,  by  whom  lie  is  introduced  to  Miss  Lane. 
At  six  o'clock  the  President  gives  a  grand  dinner  in 
lionor  of  the  Prince's  arrival. 

4.  The  Prince  and  suite  visit  the  National  Capitol, 


.^: 


THE  PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN    AMERICA. 


261 


and  other  objects  of  interest.  At  noon  the  President 
holds  a  levee,  at  which  he  introduces  ^hePrinuu  to  ilic 
notabilities.  Tl  e  Friiice  then  visits  iLe  I  atent-office, 
after  ^  hich  he  accompanies  Miss  Lane  to  Miss  Smith's 
Institute  for  Young  Ladies,  where  he  has  a  game  of 
ten-pins.  In  the  evening  the  President  entertains  the 
cor/75  diplomatique  at  dinner,  at  which  the  Prince  is 
present,  which  is  followed  by  a  reception  by  Miss 
Lane,  and  a  grand  pyrotechnic  display. 

5.  At  ten  o'clock  this  morning  the  Prince  and  suite 
embark  on  the  Harriet  Ljine,  and  proceed  to  Mount 
Vernon,  where  they  visit  the  tomb  of  Washington — a 
touching  incident  destined  to  be  of  historical  interr  jt. 
The  Prince  plants  a  young  horse-chestnut-tree,  in  com- 
memoration of  the  occasion.  In  the  evening  a  dinner 
is  given  by  Lord  Lyons  to  the  royal  party. 

6.  The  royal  party  embark  again  on  board  the 
Harriet  Lane  and  land  at  Acquia  Creek.  Thence 
they  proceed  by  rail  to  Richmond,  Va.,  where  they 
are  most  enthusiastically  received. 

7.  The  Prince  and  suite  attend  Divine  service, 
after  which  His  Royal  Highness  pays  a  visit  to  the 
Governor,  with  whom  he  drives  out  to  view  the  dif 
ferent  objects  of  interest  in  the  city  and  suburbs. 

8.  Arrival  at  Baltimore,  where  the  Prince  receives 
the  usual  ovation. 

9.  His  Royal  Highness  arrives  at  Philadel}  h! '  :  i 
the  midst  of  the  election  excitement,  which  ai  'xts 
attention  from  the  royal  party  somewhat,  and  ''end? -a 
the  reception  of  the  Prince  less  enthusiastic  thai)  it 
would  otherwise  have  been. 

10.  Great  operatic  entertainment  at  the  Academy 
of  Music  in  honor  of  the  Prince,  at  which  the  artistes 
from  New  York  take  the  leading  parts.  Immense 
enthusiasm. 

11.  The  Prince  and  suite  leave  Philadelphia  for 
New  York  by  the  Camden  and  Amboy  Railroad.  The 
Harriet  Lane,  which  had  been  placed  at  the  disposal 


262 


ROTALIY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 


of  the  Prince  by  the  President,  leaves  the  Battery  with 
the  Committee  of  Reception  to  meet  His  Royal  High- 
ness at  Perth  Amboy,  where  the  royal  party  embark. 
The  Prince  is  saluted  by  the  batteries  and  shipping  as 
the  Harriet  Lane  steams  up  the  bay,  amid  tlie  cheers 
of  the  immense  multitudes  on  shore  and  on  board  tho 
different  vessels.  His  Royal  Highness  lands  at  the 
Battery,  where  he  is  received  by  Mayor  Wood,  who 
welcomes  him  to  New  York,  and  presents  him  to  the 
members  of  the  Common  Council  present.  He  then 
assumes  his  colonel's  uniform,  and,  at  the  request  of 
General  Sandford,  to  whom  the  Mayor  introduces  him, 
he  reviews  six  thousand  volunteer  troops  of  the  First 
Division,  at  Castle  Garden ;  after  which  he  proceeds 
up  Broadway,  in  a  handsome  barouche,  drawn  by  six 
superb  black  horses,  amid  the  acclamations  of  a  vast 
multitude,  numbering  several  hundred  thousand.  At 
the  City  Hall  the  Prince  received  a  marching  salute. 
His  Royal  Highness  then  proceeded  up  Broadway  to 
the  Fifth  Avenue  Hotel,  amid  the  plaudits  of  the  crowd. 

12.  He  visits  the  New  York  University,  the  Deaf 
and  Dumb  Asylum  and  other  institutions,  and  takes 
lunch  with  Mayor  Wood,  after  which  he  pays  a  visit 
to  the  Central  Park,  where  he  plants  an  oak  and  an 
eim  tree.  In  the  evening  a  magnificent  ball  is  given 
to  tlie  Prince  by  the  citizens  of  New  York,  in  the 
Academy  of  Music,  which  is  gorgeously  decorated  with 
flowers  for  the  occasion.  Early  in  the  evening  part 
of  the  flooring  of  the  ball-room  gives  way,  creating 
much  excitement  and  alarm,  but,  happily,  without  in- 
juring any  one.  Tlie  breach  is  repaired,  and,  after  an 
olew,ant  supper,  the  Prince  opens  the  ball  with  Mrs. 
Governor  Morgan,  and  dances  till  a  late  hour  on  the 
foliowing  morning. 

13.  His  Royal  Highness  visits  General  Scott,  after 
whir'h  '  v3  pays  a  round  of  visits  to  several  places,  in- 
clu'.iia['  Baruum's  Museum.  In  the  evening  there  is 
a  grana  liixmcn's  procession,  in  which  five  thousand 


THE   PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


263 


firemen,  bearing  torches,  take  part.  The  engines  and 
other  apparatus  are  beautifully  decorated ;  and,  in  fact, 
it  is  pronounced  to  be  the  largest  and  most  brilliant 
procession  of  the  kind  that  has  ever  taken  place  in 
the  city. 

14.  The  royal  party  attend  Trinity  Church,  the 
streets  leading  to  which  are  lined  with  people,  and 
the  vicinity  crowded.  After  service  they  partake  of 
luncheon  with  Mr.  Archibald,  the  British  Consul. 
Sermons  on  the  Prince  are  preached,  in  their  respect- 
ive places  of  worship,  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Frothingliam, 
Unitarian,  and  the  Rev.  Mr.  Harris,  Methodist.  The 
evening  is  stormy,  and  the  Prince  stays  within  doors. 

15.  They  leave  for  West  Point,  in  the  Harriet 
Lane,  and  on  their  arrival  they  have  a  grand  re- 
ception, after  which  the  Prince  reviews  the  cadets. 
The  Prince  inspects  the  Academy,  and  finishes  the 
evening  with  a  game  of  ten-pins. 

16.  Departure  for  Albany,  up  the  Hudson,  where 
the  Prince  is  received  by  the  civil  authorities  and  the 
people.  In  company  with  Governor  Morgan,  he  visits 
the  State  Capitol  and  other  places  of  interest. 

17.  Oflf  for  Boston,  which  is  reached  in  the  after- 
noon. The  Prince  is  escorted  by  a  troop  of  cavalry 
to  his  hotel.  Vast  crowds  line  the  way  and  express 
much  anxiety  to  see  the  Prince. 

18.  This  is  a  gala  day.  The  principal  public 
buildings,  hotels,  some  private  houses,  and  the  ship- 
ping in  the  harbor,  are  handsomely  decorated  with 
flags  and  streamers.  In  the  afternoon  the  Prince,  in 
full  uniform,  with  staf^,  accompanied  by  Governor 
Banks  and  his  staff,  reviews  two  thousand  five  hund- 
red troops  on  the  Common.  The  sight  is  witnessed 
by  thirty  thousand  persons.  After  the  review  the  vast 
multitude  form  a  procession,  and  escort  the  Prince 
through  the  principal  streets  to  his  hotel. 

19.  The   Prince  visits   Harvard    College,   Mount 
iuburn  Cemetery,  Bunker  Hill  and  the  Charlestown 


264 


BOYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OB, 


Navy  Yard,  and  tho  Public  Library  in  the  evening. 
He  attracts  large  crowds  wherever  he  goes. 

20.  He  leaves  Boston  for  Portland,  Maine,  where 
he  is  received  by  the  Governor  of  the  State,  the  Mayor 
of  the  city  and  a  respectable  body  of  military,  together 
with  almost  the  entire  population,  by  whom  he  is  es- 
corted through  the  principal  streets  to  the  place  of 
embarkation,  where  he  goes  on  board  the  Hero,  under 
a  royal  salute,  and  almost  immediately  after  the  squad- 
ron sails  for  Old  England. 


\i 


>  ./«:■    >-' 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


265 


THE  HISTORICAL  PRINCES  OF  WALES. 


vr 


In  the  hereditary  halo  surrounding  tlie  title  of 
Prince  of  Wales  there  is  much  calculated  to  involve 
the  detail  of  the  historian.  Identified  as  the  dignity 
has  been  with  English  story  for  more  tlian  five  centu- 
ries, few  readers  even  of  that  story  are  cognizant  of 
the  powers  or  events  nearly  allied  to  the  honorary 
designation  of  the  regular  heir  to  the  British  tlirone, 
and  who  may  not  discover  in  the  following  briei  Sum- 
mary of  the  lives  and  deaths  of  the  nineteen  Princes 
of  Wales,  preceding  the  present  and  twentieth,  some- 
thing to  ponder  over  and  repay  the  perusal. 

The  first  Prince  of  Wales  (of  English  connection) 
was  Edward  of  Caernarvon,  eldest  son  of  King  Ed- 
ward the  First — born  at  the  castle  where  he  derived 
his  appellation,  at  the  moment  his  father  was  consum- 
mating the  conquest  of  tiie  Welsh  people.  An  old 
legend,  as  likely  to  be  true  as  false,  has  been  handed 
down  to  us  in  respect  to  this  Prince,  to  the  effect  that 
the  Welsh  refused  up  to  the  latest  moment  to  accept  a 
Prince  apart  from  one  who  was  their  own  countryman, 
and  could  speak  no  language  except  their  own — a  dif- 
ficulty which  the  adroit  Edward  soon  disposed  of  by 
presenting  to  his  new  subjects  his  own  infant,  born 
only  the  previous  night  in  Caernarvon.  This  Prince 
afterwards  became  King  Edward  the  Second,  and  is 
noted  in  history  as  one  of  the  weakest  and  most  unfor- 
tunate of  monarchs  who  ever  held  the  English  sceptre. 
Hurled  from  place  and  power,  he  was  confined  in  the 
lowest  dungeons  of  Berkeley  Castle,  and  there  murder- 
ed by  a  process  as  unnatural  as  it  was  horrible. 

The  second  Prince  of  Wales  was  son  of  the  above 

12 


266 


ROYALTY   IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  I   OR, 


unhappy  king,  but  very  unlike  him  in  disposition  and 
the  p^lory  of  his  reign.  The  name  rf  Edward  the 
Third  fills  a  brilliant  page  in  English  liistory,  as  does 
that  of  his  son,  known  as  the  "  Black  Prince,"  the  most 
successful  of  generals  and  the  most  accomplished  of 
warriors,  who,  we  are  told,  was  the  first  to  adopt  the 
three  ostrich  feathers,  with  the  motto  "  Ich  Dien"  as  a 
cognizance,  and  who,  much  to  the  sorrow  of  his  own 
countrymen,  died  before  he  could  attain  the  dignity 
held  by  his  parent,  and  which  must  have  devolved  on 
liira  had  he  been  spared  a  few  years  longer. 

As  though  for  the  purpose  of  showing  how  imbecil- 
ity is  reflected  in  the  same  family,  and  of  contrasting 
one  Prince  of  Wales  with  his  Immediate  predecessor, 
Richard,  afterwards  the  second  king  of  that  name,  and 
son  of  the  "  Black  Prince,"  took  up  the  motto  dropped 
by  the  latter.  A  man  of  indecision  and  weakness,  ho 
was  tlie  victim  of  courtly  cabals,  and,  it  is  recorded, 
was  starved  to  death.  His  cousin  and  successor  on 
the  throne,  Henry,  of  Lancaster,  had  a  son,  who,  per- 
haps more  than  all  the  other  Princes  of  Wales,  has 
claimed  the  respect  and  admiration  of  subsequent  gen- 
erations. Who,  at  all  familiar  with  the  Shaksperean 
muse  needs  to  be  reminded  of  the  madcap  Harry,  boon 
companion  of  fat  Jack  FallstafiF,  royster  in  general  in 
his  youth,  but  afterwards,  when  the  "  awful  round  of 
sovereignty"  had  clasped  his  brow,  tlie  illustrious  hero 
of  Agincourt  and  chivalrous  gentleman  of  Europe. 
Again  ;  in  connection  with  the  title  of  Prince  of 
Wales,  we  come  to  a  duplicate  and  a  contrast  as  well 
of  character.  The  son  of  the  dead  monarch  is  crown- 
ed in  Paris  when  only  nine  months  old.  This  Prince 
also  has  been  portrayed  by  Shakspeare,  who,  in  the 
amiable  yet  vacillating  Henry  the  Sixth,  has  shown 
lis  a  man  to  pity  more  than  to  admire  or  condemn. 

Passing  over  a  few  years,  we  come  to  another  Princo 
of  Wales,  as  valiant  as  his  grandfather  and  as  unfor- 
tunate as  his  father>    We  speak  of  tlie  young  Edward, 


THE   PRINCE   OP  WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


267 


who,  it  is  said,  was  stabbed  on  tlie  battle-field  of 
Tewkesbury,  by  "  Dukes  Richard,  Clarence,  and  the 
rest." 

After  this  Prince  comes  the  eldest  son  of  Edward 
the  Fourth,  of  York — numbered  among  the  monarcha 
of  England  as  Edward  the  Fifth — who,  according  to 
general  belief,  was  murdered  in  the  Tower  of  London, 
at  the  Instigation  of  his  uncle,  afterwards  Richard  tho 
Third.  • 

Many  years  pass  and  many  changes  take  place  be- 
fore the  title  of  Prince  of  Wales  is  again  taken  up — 
in  the  present  instance  by  Arthur,  son  of  Henry  the 
Seventh.  This  Prince  dies  in  his  father's  lifetime,  and 
leaves  his  dignity  to  his  brother  Henry,  afterwards 
Henry  the  Eighth,  of  no  very  enviable  memory. 
Henry's  son  is  the  next  Prince  of  Wales — a  title  he 
becomingly  bears  until  his  ascension  to  the  throne  aa 
Edward  the  Sixth.  Mary  and  Elizabeth  follow  ;  and 
as  neitlier  has  progeny,  the  title  of  right  belonging  to 
the  hereditary  heir  apparent  to  the  English  throne  re- 
mains in  abeyance  until  the  coming  of  the  Scottish 
James,  on  whose  accession  to  the  throne  loft  vacant 
by  Elizabeth,  his  eldest  son  Henry  assumes  the  dignity 
of  Prince  of  Wales  ;  and  after  him,  he  dying  young, 
his  brother  Charles,  subsequently  King  Charles,  who 
was  beheaded  in  1649.  The  eldest  son  of  this  unfor- 
tunate monarch  was,  of  course,  Prince  of  Wales  during 
his  father's  life,  and  Charles  the  Second  when  he  died. 
He  left  no  legitim.  te  offspring,  and  was  succeeded  by 
his  brother,  the  Duke  of  York,  as  James  the  Second. 
James  it  is  well  known,  was  obliged  to  fly  from  En- 
gland, taking  with  him  his  wife  and  infant  son  (Prince 
of  Wales),  afterwards  known  as  the  Chevalier  St. 
George,  in  whose  behalf  the  so-called  "  Rebellion"  of 
1715  was  concerted,  and  whose  son,  Charles  Edward, 
was  commonly  called  the  "  Pretender." 

The  Guelphs  taking  possession  of  the  English  throne 
in  1714,  tho  next  Prince  of  Wales  was  the  son  of  the 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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2.0 


1-25  ||l.4      1.6 

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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

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268 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW   WORLD  ;    OR, 


first  Gcorp^e,  and  on  the  death  of  that  monarch,  George 
the  Second.  He  had  a  son,  Frederick,  who,  in  1727, 
became,  in  his  turn,  Prince  of  Wales,  and  who,  dying 
early,  left  the  title  to  his  son  George,  afterwards  third 
king  of  that  designation  on  the  English  throne,  whicli 
he  ascended  in  1.760.  Two  years  afterwards  he  had  a 
son,  who,  according  to  usage,  was  created  Prince  of 
Wales  by  patent,  when  a  few  days  old.  This  person- 
age became  Regent  in  1812,  and  King  in  1820,  and 
was,  in  his  time,  noted  for  the  splendor  of  his  living. 
Dying  in  1830,  he  was  succeeded  by  his  brother,  the 
Duke  of  Clarence  (William  the  Fourth),  who,  having 
no  legitimate  offspring,  left,  on  his  decease  in  1837, 
the  right,  title,  and  dignity  to  his  niece,  the  Princess 
Victoria,  of  Kent,  of  whom  the  Prince  o^  Wales,  Al- 
bert Edward,  is  the  eldest  son.  His  Royal  Highness 
was  born  on  the  9th  of  November,  1841,  at  Bucking- 
ham Palace,  London. 

The  materials  which  in  future  davs  will  be  at  hand 
to  enable  a  biographer  to  write  a  history,  or  part  his- 
tory, of  his  life  are  not  yet  to  be  found.  The  deeds 
of  his  youth  and  the  achievements  of  his  manhood  and 
maturity  are  yet  to  be  enacted.  At  present  he  can 
only  be  congratulated  on  the  splendid  prospect  he  has 
before  him,  and  as  the  fortunate  possessor  of  a  wide 
field  for  good. 

His  visit  to  America  has  naturally  caused  great  in- 
terest, partly  on  account  of  its  being  the  first  visit  ever 
paid  by  a  Prince  of  Wales  to  the  great  republic,  but 
more  particularly  by  reason  of  the  universal  respect 
entertained  by  the  American  people  for  his  mother, 
Queen  Victoria.  It  has  been  the  fate  of  few  women 
placed  in  so  elevated  a  position  to  receive  so  wide- 
spread a  reputation  for  the  womanly  virtues,  and  it 
would  seem  as  though  she  had  determined  to  train  her 
children  with  as  much  care  as  she  had  been  trained 
herself.  h 

The  titles  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  are,  Duke  of  Sax- 


THE   PRINCE   OF   WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


269 


[it  in- 
ever 
,  but 
spect 
ther, 
^men 
^ide- 
id  it 
her 
ined 

Sax- 


ony, Prince  of  Saxe  Coburg  Gotha,  Duke  of  Cornwall 
and  Rotlisay,  Earl  of  Chester,  Carrick,  Dublin,  Baron 
Renfrew,  and  Lord  of  the  Isles.  These  titles  he  de- 
rives partly  by  inheritance  and  partly  from  creation, 
from  the  circumstance  of  King  Edward  I.  having,  in 
politic  concession  to  the  Welsh  chieftains,  created  his 
heir  "  Prince  of  Wales,"  a  few  days  after  his  birth, 
which  took  place  in  Caernarvon  Castle.  This  was  the 
unhappy  Edward  II.,  who  was  so  barbarously  murder- 
ed by  Mortimer  in  Berkeley  Castle.  A  few  days  after 
he  was  created  Earl  of  Chester,  which  title  lios  been 
retained  up  to  the  present  time.  The  Scottish  titles 
of  the  Prince  are  derived  from  Robert  III.,  in  whose 
reign  they  were  vested  in  the  heir  apparent  of  the 
Crown  of  Scotland.  His  Irish  titles  were  conferred 
on  the  present  Prince  of  Wales  by  Queen  Victoria,  on 
the  lOtii  of  September,  1849,  in  commemoration  of  her 
visit  to  Ireland.  In  the  House  of  Lords  he  is  known 
as  the  Duke  of  Cornwall. 

Dod,  the  great  authority  on  all  these  questions,  tlius 
defines  the  rank  and  position  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  : 
'*  TI'O  Prince  of  Wales  has  ever  been  regarded  as  tlie 
first  subject  in  the  realm,  the  nearest  to  the  throne, 
the  most  dignified  of  the  Peers  of  Parliament,  and 
though  not  exercising  any  political  power  beyond  his 
vote  as  a  legislator,  yet  regarded  by  all  men  as  the 
most  eminent  person  in  the  State  next  after  the  sov- 
ereign." 

The  education  of  Albert  Edward  has  been  conducted 
under  the  immediate  supervision  of  the  Queen.  In  the 
languages,  classics,  natural  philosophy,  mathematics, 
jurisprudence,  and  other  branches.  His  Royal  High- 
ness has  had  the  most  eminent  professors  of  tlie  day. 

On  the  9th  of  November,  1858,  the  Prince  of  Wales, 
having  on  that  day  completed  liis  seventecntli  year, 
was  appointed  colonel  in  the  army. 

Having  thus  fairly  entered  upon  the  duties  of  man- 
hood, His  Royal  Highness  determined  upon  pursuing 


270 


ROYALTY    IN   THR    XKW    WORLD  ;   OR, 


his  studies,  for  a  time  at  least,  at  home.  Accordingly, 
after  a  brief  visit  to  his  illustrious  sister  at  Berlin, 
the  Princess  Frederick  William  of  Prussia,  he  pro- 
ceeded on  his  journey  to  Italy.  On  his  way  thither 
he  performed  the  first  public  act  of  his  life,  by  present- 
ing colors  to  the  lOOtli  or  Prince  of  Wales  Royal 
Canadian  Regiment  of  Foot,  then  stationed  at  Shorn- 
cliflfe,  near  Folkestone. 

The  Prince  arrived  in  the  Eternal  City  in  the  latter 
part  of  January,  1859,  and,  having  spent  some  time  in 
exploring  ancient  and  modern  Rome,  proceeded  quietly 
and  unostentatiously  to  his  studies.  Before  doing  so, 
however,  he  paid  a  visit  to  the  Pope.  His  appearance 
at  the  Vatican  is  worthy  of  note,  inasmuch  as  a  P-rince 
of  the  blood-royal  of  England  had  not  made  a  similar 
visit  for  some  centuries.  Agreeably  to  the  expressed 
wish  of  Her  Majesty,  the  reception  was  conducted  with 
little  ceremony.  His  Holiness  rose  on  the  entry  of 
the  Prince,  and,  coming  forward  to  the  door  of  the 
apartment  to  meet  him,  conducted  him  in  the  most 
affable  manner  possible  to  a  seat,  and  entered  into 
conversation  with  him  in  French.  Col.  Bruce  was  the 
only  other  person  present  at  the  interview,  which  was 
brief,  and  limited  to  complimentary  expressions  and 
subjects  of  local  interest,  but  perfectly  satisfactory  to 
all  parties.  On  the  Prince  rising  to  take  his  leave, 
the  Pope  conducted  him  again  to  the  door  with  the 
same  warmth  of  manner  which  he  had  testifi'^d  on 
receiving  him.  The  stay  of  His  Royal  Highness  in 
Rome  being  interrupted  by  the  outbreak  of  the  war 
in  Italy,  he  traveled  to  Gibraltar,  and  from  thence  to 
Spain  and  Portugal.  He  returned  to  England  on 
June  25,  1859. 

On  his  return  he  took  up  his  residence  at  Oxford  to 
pursue  his  studies,  and  on  the  9th  of  July  last  he  era- 
barked  witli  his  suite  at  Davenport,  on  board  the  Hero 
ship  of  war,  and  sailed  for  America  on  the  following 


morning. 


THF  PRINCE   OF  WALES   IN  AMERICA. 


271 


In  person  the  young  Prince  has  rather  a  short  slim 
figure,  which  is  always  displayed  to  the  best  advantage 
in  trim  fitting  garments  of  the  latest  style.  He  has 
his  mother's  profile,  and  in  order  to  see  the  contour  of 
his  face,  it  is  only  necessary  to  look  at  the  effigies  of 
the  Queen  upon  an  English  sixpence. 

The  manners  of  the  Prince  of  Wales  would  form  a 
good  model  for  any  youth  to  follow.  Modest,  unas- 
suming, courteous,  and  agreeable  to  all,  he  makes  hosts 
of  friends  wherever  he  goes. 


1 ,1  ■■* 


y-'     '^.^^ 


~t> 


27! 


ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


THE  ROYAL  PARTY. 


THE   DUKE   OP   NEWCASTLE.     . 

Henry  Pelham  Clinton,  fifth  Duke  of  Newcastle,  is 
a  Statesman  and  Peer  of  the  British  Empire,  and  Sec- 
retary of  State  for  the  Colonies.  He  was  born  on  the 
22d  of  May,  1811,  in  London,  and  is  descended  from 
the  ancient  family  of  the  Barons  Clinton,  who  inherited 
in  1756  the  Dukedom  of  Newcastle,  under  the  name  of 
Lord  Lincoln.  He  was  educated  at  the  University  of 
Oxford,  and  as  soon  as  he  became  of  age  he  took  his 
seat  in  the  House  of  Commons,  to  which  he  was  con- 
stantly re-elected  until  1851,  at  first  for  the  borough 
of  Nottingham,  and  tlien  for  that  of  Falkirk.  At 
this  latter  date  he  took  his  father's  seat  in  the  House 
of  Lords,  and  continued  to  support  the  policy  of 
the  conservative  party,  of  which  he  is  a  moderate  rep- 
resentative. He  differed  with  the  old  tories  on 
the  double  question  of  the  endo^  ment  of  tlie  Catholic 
clergy  and  the  reform  of  the  tariffs,  for  which  he  voted. 
He  was  appointed  Lord  of  the  Treasury  in  1834,  iu 
connection  with  the  first  Cabinet  of  Sir  Robert  Peel ; 
in  the  second  Peel  Cabinet  of  1841  and  1846  he  held 
the  still  higher  post  of  first  Commissioner  of  the  Woods 
and  Forests.  In  1846  he  was  for  some  time  Secretary 
in  Chief  for  Ireland. 

In  1852  the  Duke  of  Newcastle  formed  a  part  of  tho 
Aberdeen  ministry,  and  after  having  discharged  the 
duties  of  the  Colonial  Office  for  some  time,  he  was  made 
Secretary  of  War  in  June,  1854,  a  most  important 
position  at  that  period,  in  consequence  of  the  Russian 
war.     The  campaign  had  liardly  opened  when  loud 


THE    PRINCE    or   V*'ALES   IN    AMERICA. 


273 


complaints  arose  on  all  sides  against  tlie  insufficient 
and  unsatisfactory  manner  in  which  the  ministry  had 
provided  for  the  necessities  of  an  army  on  the  march. 
The  Duke  defended  himself  in  Parliament  with  a  great 
deal  of  spirit,  and  yet  with  moderation,  and  afterwards 
Lord  John  Russell  attributed  the  errors  with  which 
the  Duke  had  been  charged  to  tlie  numerous  inter- 
ruptions whicli  liad  prevailed  in  a  badly  organized 
ministry.  The  Duke  of  Newcastle,  however,  being 
greatly  dissatisfied,  resigned  his  port-folio  into  the 
hands  of  Lord  Panmure  in  February,  1855.  A  com- 
mission of  inquiry  was  then  appointed,  which  did  not 
justify  any  of  the  accumulated  cliarges  against  the 
Duke.  He  spent  the  autumn  of  1855  in  visiting  tlie 
Crimea  and  all  the  military  posts  of  the  Black  Sea. 
By  his  marriage  with  the  only  daughter  of  the  Duke 
of  Hamilton,  from  whom  he  publicly  separated  since 
1850,  he  has  five  children.  The  eldest,  Henry  Pelham 
Alexander,  Count  of  Lincoln,  was  born  in  1834. 

Although  the  natural  and  easy  manner  in  which  the 
Prince  has  accommodated  himself  to  the  circumstances 
in  which  he  has  been  placed  may  in  a  great  measure 
be  set  down  to  the  genial  and  amiable  impulses  of  his 
own  nature,  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  he  has  been 
all  the  time  under  strict  tutelage,  and  that  it  is  more 
to  the  judgment  and  tact  of  his  advisers  than  to  his 
own  unfettered  discretion  that  are  due  the  admirable 
propriety  and  freedom  from  all  that  was  likely  to  shock 
democratic  prejudices  that  marked  his  progress  on  Jie 
American  shores.  It  is  but  right  that  the  Mentor  to 
whom  the  popularity  of  the  British  Telemachus  is  in  a 
great  measure  owing  should  have  his  lair  share  of  the 
credit  attaching  to  the  conduct  of  his  royal  charge. 
It  is  not  generally  known,  and  it  is  time  that  e  fact 
should  be  stated,  that  on  His  Grace  the  Duke  of  New- 
castle devolved  by  Queen  Victoria  the  entire  responsi- 
bility of  her  son's  actions  during  his  visit  to  America. 
Among  the  whole  British  aristocracy,  a  wiser  or  more 

12* 


274 


ROYALTY   IN   THE   NEW    WOHLD  :    OR, 


judicious  selection  could  not  have  been  made.  The 
career  of  this  nobleman,  from  his  first  entrance  on 
public  life,  has  been  marked  by  an  uprightness,  a 
soundness  of  judgment,  and  a  comprehensiveness  of 
views,  which  have  singled  him  out  as  one  of  the  most 
patriotic  and  estimable  of  living  British  statesmen. 

Wiien  Jjord  Lincoln,  he  was  one  of  the  first  to  give 
his  adhesion  to  the  free  trade  theories  of  Sir  Robert 
Peel,  convinced  that  in  their  adoption  lay  the  only 
permanent  foundations  of  the  prosperity  of  his  country. 
When  that  great  man  was  made  the  incessant  object 
of  bitter  persecutions  by  the  party  whom  he  had  con- 
scientiously deserted.  Lord  Li' coin  was  one  of  the 
small  but  gallant  band  of  statesmen  who  adhered  to 
his  fortunes,  and  who,  after  his  death,  esteemed  it 
their  greatest  pride  to  have  been  numbered  among  his 
followers.  But  it  is  not  in  his  public  life  only  that 
the  Duke  has  displayed  those  rare  qualities  which  have 
earned  him  universal  respect.  The  course  which  he 
pursued  on  coming  into  possession  of  his  father's  title 
and  estates  offered  an  equally  striking  example  of  the 
justness  of  views  and  lofty  disinterestedness  which 
seem  to  be  the  leading  qualities  of  his  character,  hi 
his  address  to  the  tenantry  of  the  Clumber  estates, 
Notts,  delivered  in  December,  1851,  he  gave  expression 
to  sentiments  and  intentions  which  did  equal  credit  to 
his  head  and  heart.  In  the  first  place  he  informed 
them  that  the  custom  that  had  prevailed  of  demanding 
the  rent  immediately  after  harvest  would  be  discon- 
tinued, as  he  felt  tliat  the  practice  was  prejudicial  to 
the  tenant,  by  compelling  him  to  thresh  out  his  corn 
at  a  time  when  it  was  not  fit  for  market,  and  disposing 
of  it  at  a  considerable  loss  to  himself.  Then,  after 
prefacing  the  announcement  by  an  allusion  to  certain 
abatements  of  rent  made  by  his  father,  he  stated  that 
he  had  come  to  the  conclusion  that,  as  a  claim  for  such 
reductions  had  been  made,  he  thought  the  fairest  course 
was  to  have  all  the  farms  upon  the  estates  revalued, 


■fn 


THE  PRINCE   OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


275 


which  had  accordinofly  been  done  by  liis  orders,  and 
the  result  was  tlie  reduction  of  tlie  rent  of  a  Large  pro- 
portion of  them,  while  tlie  few  that  were  raised  he  iiad 
decided  upon  leaving  at  tlieir  old  rental.  Considering 
the  heavy  sacrifices  which  these  concessions  entailed 
on  a  landlord  who  had  a  princely  rank  to  maintain, 
they  manifest  a  conscientious  regard  for  his  obligations 
and  duties  towards  his  tenantry,  which  is  but  rarely  to 
be  met  with  among  the  class  to  which  he  belong  s. 

With  the  same  disregard  of  time-honored  prejudice, 
the  Duke  in  several  instances  practically  annulled  the 
obnoxious  and  stringent  game  laws,  so  long  the  detesta- 
tion of  English  tenants.  During  his  visit  to  Niagara 
Falls,  in  company  with  the  Prince,  report  says,  he  met 
one  of  his  old  tenants,  now  engaged  in  a  flourishing 
business,  and  the  recognition  was  so  marked  and  cor- 
dial that  the  bystanders  were  led  to  inquire  in  regard 
to  the  circumstances  of  the  former  acquainttjce  be- 
tween the  parties.  It  appears  that  some  years  ago  the 
game  preserved  by  the  Duke  made  such  sad  havoc  with 
the  crops  of  his  tenantry  that  the  nuisance  became  un- 
bearable. Filled  with  indignation,  one  of  the  tenants 
— the  gentleman  in  question — started  for  the  Duke's 
residence,  and  seeing,  but  not  recognizing.  His  Grace 
standing  near  the  lodge,  and  very  roughly  dressed,  he 
requested  his  landlord  to  open  the  gate. 

This  the  Duke  did,  and  the  man  rode  up  to  the  house. 
There  he  found  no  Duke,  but  plenty  of  beef  and  ale, 
which  English  hospitality  furnishes  to  the  poorest 
visitor.  After  waiting  awhile  he  started  for  home, 
more  indignant,  but  not  quite  as  sober,  as  ever.  Again 
he  ir.pt  the  Duke,  again  requested  him  to  play  the  part 
of  porter,  and,  again  consenting,  the  Duke,  by  adroit 
questionings,  led  the  man  to  ventilate  his  grievances. 
Pleased  to  find  a  sympathizer,  the  tenant  grew  eloquent 
upon  his  losses,  and  finally  left  for  home,  slightly  re- 
lieved at  having  been  able  at  least  to  talk  of  his  griefs. 
When  he  arose  the  next  morning  he  found  the  game- 


276 


llOYAF/rY   IN   THK   NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


keepers  and  neighboring  tenantry  busy  in  destroying 
the  game  wliich  had  i)laycd  such  pranks  with  his  grain, 
and  besides  this  present  relief,  he  received  permission 
to  repeat  the  destruction  as  often  as  the  game  became 
troublesome.  Most  English  noblemen  would — indeed, 
most  English  noblemen  do — allow  their  tenantry  to  get 
along  as  they  may,  and  carefully  protect,  from  even  a 
stick  or  stone,  their  fine  but  destructive  preserves. 

The  manly  and  straightforward  conduct  of  the  Duke 
in  Canada,  on  the  occasion  of  the  Orange  disturbances, 
is  fresh  in  the  recollection  of  the  public.  A  timid  and 
vacillating  man  would  never  have  been  equal  to  the 
emergency  ;  but  the  bold  and  determined  stand  taken 
by  the  noble  Duke  has  doubtless  tended  to  prevent  the 
loss  of  many  valuable  lives. 

The  Duke  of  Newcastle  is  tall,  with  a  decided  in- 
clination to  corpulency.  He  has  large,  finely  formed 
features,  and  allows  his  beard,  to  grow  upon  his  face, 
naturally  without  trimming  or  arrangement.  The 
Duke  stands  very  erect,  and  has  an  air  and  manner 
which  instantly  announce  the  high-born  gentleman, 
and,  when  in  uniform,  his  appearance  is  especially 
distingue  and  imposing.  The  firm,  independent,  honest, 
open  character  of  the  man  inspires  his  whole  form. 
From  tiiese  very  qualities — the  qualities  that  appeal 
most  to  Americans — he  stands  hardly  second  to  the 
Prince  in  popular  favor,  and  at  almost  every  place 
which  the  party  visited  cheers  for  the  Duke  succeeded 
those  for  the  Prince.  This  was  the  case  even  in 
Canada,  where  the  Orangemen,  after  exclaiming  vehe- 
mently against  him  whom  they  had  never  seen,  fell  in 
love  with  His  Grace  as  soon  as  he  appeared  personally 
among  them,  were  completely  captivated  by  his  mingled 
firmness  ond  kindness,  and  enthusiastically  applauded 
the  very  ?nan  against  whom  they  had  professed  to  en- 
tertain the  bitterest  hostility.  For  -.:  statue  of  honest, 
manly  independence,  no  form,  after  that  of  Washing- 
ton, could  be  more  expressive  than  that  of  the  Duke. 


THE   PRINCK   OF   WALES  IN   AMERICA. 


277 


THE    EARL   OP   ST.    GERMAINS, 

One  of  the  most  polished  noblemen  of  the  Court  of 
St.  James,  and  for  some  time  Lord  Lieutenant  of 
Ireland,  and  at  present  Lord  High  Steward  of  Her 
Majesty's  household,  belongs  to  an  ancient  family 
which  flourished  for  several  generations  in  the  county 
of  Devon  before  it  removed  into  Cornwall,  and  in  the 
beginning  of  tlie  lifteentli  century,  Walter  Eliot,  ono 
of  ills  ancestors,  was  returned  among  the  gentry  of 
that  si) ire.  The  Earl  is  named  Edward  Granville 
Eliot.  He  was  born  on  the  29th  of  August,  1798,  and 
was  married  on  the  21st  of  September,  1824,  to  Jemima, 
daughter  of  the  late  Marquis  Cornwallis.  His  ances- 
tor. Sir  John  Eliot,  was  member  of  Parliament  for  the 
county  of  Cornwall  in  the  reign  of  Charles  the  First. 
This  gentleman,  a  strenuous  opponent  of  tlie  Court, 
was  appointed  by  the  House  of  Commons  one  of  the 
managers  of  the  impeachment  of  the  Duke  of  Buck- 
ingham, for  which,  with  Sir  Dudley  Digges,  the  other 
manager,  lie  was  committed  to  the  Tower,  but  soon 
afterwards  released.  In  1628,  Sir  John  Eliot,  with 
other  members  of  the  Commons,  was  again  sent  to  the 
Tower  for  refusing  to  answer  before  the  Privy  Coun- 
cil for  unparliamentary  conduct,  and  on  the  29th  of 
May,  in  that  year,  an  information  was  exhibited  in  the 
Star  Chamber  against  Sir  John  and  his  companions 
for  their  undutiful  speeches,  and  they  were  sent  to 
the  Tower,  where  Sir  John  died  on  the  29th  of  No- 
vember, 16B2. 

The  Earl  of  St.  Germains  is  tall  and  slightly  built. 
He  is  gray  haired,  and  extremely  pleasant  looking. 
He  dresses  well,  and  seems  to  take  a  pride  in  the  ar- 
rangement of  his  joej-^omie/.  ■ 

:  Indeed,  the  Earl,  in  his  attention  to  his  costume, 
and  in  his  jaunty  air,  resembles  not  a  little  Lord  Pal- 
merston,  of  whom  it  has  been  said  that  he  grows 
younger  with  age.     With  his  handsome  form,  set  off 


«: 


278 


ROYALTY   IN  THE   NEW  WORLD  ;   OR, 


by  the  best  made  of  frock  coats,  or  the  full  dress  uni- 
form of  the  members  of  Her  Majesty's  household,  his 
hat  jauntily  set  on  one  side,  his  cane  lightly  held  or 
tappinf]^  his  brijrhtly  polished  boot,  St.  Germains. looks 
every  inch  the  Earl,  and,  at  a  distance,  looks  rather 
like  the  brother  than  like  the  father  of  t!ie  Hon.  Mr. 
Charles  George  Cornwallis  Eliot,  who  accompanied 
him  during  the  greater  part  of  this  tour  ;  as  also  Vis- 
count Hincliinbrooke,  eldest  son  of  the  Earl  of  Sand- 
wich, and  grandson  of  the  Marquis  of  Anglesey,  the 
honored  military  companion  of  the  Duke  of  Welling- 
ton. 

Both  these  gentlemen  were  on  terms  of  intimate 
friendship  with  His  Royal  Highness,  and  traveled 
with  the  suite. 


MAJOR  GENERAL  THE  HON.  ROBERT  BRUCE. 

Major  General  the  Hon.  Robert  Bruce,  brother  of 
the  EaKl  of  Elgin,  and  son  of  that  illustrious  peer  so 
well  known  as  the  collector  of  those  spleadid  Grecian 
antiquities  denominated  "  The  Elgin  Marbles,"  is  in 
his  forty-eighth  year,  and  is  one  of  the  finest-looking 
men  of  "the  day,  with  peculiarly  attractive  and  cordial 
manners.  He  occupies  the  position  of  "  Governor" 
to  the  Prince  of  Wales,  and  in  this  capacity  he  resides 
with  him,  and  accompanies  liim  upon  his  travels. 

General  Bruce  is  tall  and  well  built,  his  hair  and 
whiskers  gray,  his  mustache  dark,  his  forehead  round, 
full,  and  dome-like,  his  complexion  pure  and  trans- 
parent, his  eyes  dark  hazel,  his  dress  the  perfection  of 
neatness  and  good  taste.  He  is  probably  the  most 
cultivated  gentleman  of  the  suite,  and  his  mind  and 
manners  are  equally  polished.  General  Bruce  was 
the  only  person  present  during  the  memorable  inter- 
view between  the  Prince  and  the  Pope  of  Rome,  and 
indeed,  accompanied  the  Prince  during  his  first  Con. 


and 

mnd, 

Irans- 

mof 

Imost 

and 

was 
Inter- 

and 
ICon. 


THE   PRINCE   OF    WALES    IN    AMERICA. 


279 


tinental  tour.  His  Royal  Highness  could  not  liave  a 
better  ''guide,  philosoplicr,  and  friend."  Equally  at 
home  in  the  drawing  room,  tin;  ^leld,  and  the  library 
— equally  well  versed  in  the  cuquette  of  court  and 
camp,  and  as  scholarly  as  lie  is  accomplished — General 
Bruce  appears  the  model  gentleman,  while  his  good- 
ness of  heart,  his  instant  recognition  of  merit  in  every 
station,  his  suavity  and  his  aflfability,  make  him  no  less 
loved  than  admired. 


DR.    ACLAND,   M.D. 

This  gentleman,  a  distinguished  member  of  the  Uni- 
versity of  Oxford,  and  of  great  literary  and  scientific 
attainments,  is  the  Prince's  physician.  He  is  tall  and 
stoutly  built,  and  has  full  light-colored  side  whiskers, 
and  high  forehead. 

MAJOR    TEESDALE.  • 

This  brave  oflBcer  is  one  of  the  Prince's  equerries, 
and  distinguished  himself  at  the  siege  of  Kars,  in  the 
defense  of  which  he  took  an  active  and  prominent 
part,  under  Gen.  Williams.  He  wears  several  medals 
of  honor.  He  is  handsome,  having  a  face  of  the  Teu- 
tonic type,  and  light  curly  hair  and  mustache. 


.  CAPTAIN   GRAY. 

Captain  Gray,  who  is  also  distinguished  for  bravery, 
and  who  wears  several  medals  of  honor,  ranks  equally 
with  Major  Teesdale  as  an  equerry  of  the  Prince. 
Captain  Gray  is  tall,  stoops  slightly  forward,  and  is 
distinguished  by  his  closely  cut  hair,  his  long,  heavy 
side  whiskers,  his  brilliant  dark  eyes,  fine  complexion, 
and  high  color. 


' 


280 


ROYALTY   IN   THE  NEW   WORLD  ;   OR, 


»*>.;•"■ -^- 


;         THE  ROYAL  QUARTETTE. 

T'    .'      ^  '     '  '        ■ 

(IXTKNDED  TO  BB  SUNG  ONLY  BY  THE  COMPOSERS.) 

"  Welcome,  Laddie,  for  your  Mither^s  sakey       '" 

Much  has  been  said  and  done  sin'  the  Prince  cam'  here, 
To  mak'  him  kind  welcome  and  gie  him  guid  cheer ; 
But  the  best  tbiug  seen  or  said  on  land,  stream,  or  lake, 
It  was,  "  Welcome,  laddie,  for  your  mither's  sake." 

Oh !  light  be  the  heart  o'  him  wha  designed  it, 
Calm  as  the  feeling  which  nestles  behind  it ; 
Be  his  head  ever  clear,  may  his  soul  have  no  ache, 
Wha  welcomed  the  *'  laddie  for  his  mither's  sake." 

'Tis  as  chaste  as  the  gem  which  slumbers  in  light, 
As  clear  to  the  mind  as  the  sun  to  the  sight : 
The  hand  o'  him  wha  said  it  I'd  cheerfully  shake, 
Wi'  a  *'  Welcome,  laddie,  for  your  mither's  sake." 

As  simple  an'  sweet  as  the  breath  o'  a  bairn, 

An'  sparklin'  an'  pure  as  the  dew  on  the  chairu  ; 

Oh  !  dead  were  tiie  soul  that  the  sense  were  slow  to  take 

0'  that  "  Welcome,  laddie,  for  your  mither's  sake." 

A  charm's  in  the  word  that's  found  in  no  other, 
From  lowliest  life  to  exalted  Queen  Mother  ; 
Tme  feeling  was  his  who  such  sentiment  could  make  ; 
May  his  hope  be  in  heaven  "  for  his  mither's  sake." 


;  AT  THE  GRAVE  OF  WASHINGTON. 

The  soft  rays  of  the  autumn  sun 

Fell  goldenly  on  land  and  wave, 
Touching  with  holy  light  the  grave 

That  holds  the  dust  of  Washington. 

A  sacred  Presence  brooded  round,  ^ 

A  halo  of  divinest  flame  ; 

The  memory  of  the  mighty  name 
That  makes  Mount  Vernon  hallowed  ground ! 


THE  PRINCE  OF  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


281 


A  stately,  eilent  group  was  there — 

The  nation's  Ruler,  crowned  with  years, 
And  England's  Prince,  nmid  his  peers, 

Uncovered  la  the  reverent  air. 

Beneath  the  old  ancestral  trees 

They  walked  together,  side  by  side,  ,  / 
In  sun  and  shadow,  close  allied, 

Linked  in  the  happy  bands  of  peace.  ^   ,  , 

Two  friendljr  nations  met  in  them, 
Two  mighty  nations,  one  of  old. 
Cast  in  the  same  gigantic  mould. 

Shoots  from  the  sturdy  Saxon  stem.  ^  a 

They  gathered  round  his  holy  dust, 
The  wise&t  of  the  many  wise 
That  shaped  our  early  destinies, 

And  fought  our  battles,  sternly  just.  ^ 

Like  brothers,  at  his  grave  they  stood. 
And  gloried  in  his  common  name 
Forgetting  all  things  but  his  fame. 

Remembering  only  what  was  good ! 

'Twas  gracefully  and  nobly  done, 

A  royal  tribute  to  the  ft*ee, 

Who,  Prince,  will  long  remember  thee, 
Before  the  grave  of  Washington ! 


J 


In  the  golden  sun  of  the  early  October,  ^ 

By  the  wide  Potomac's  yellow  flood. 
At  the  tomb  of  the  great  world's  noblest  sleeper 

A  group  of  strangers  silent  stood. 

■ '  /• 
Full  many  a  foot  the  path  had  trodden — 

And  ever  with  slow  and  careful  tread,— - 
The  path  sweeping  down  from  the  house  to  the  river. 

That  passes  the  tomb  of  the  mighty  dead. 

Full  many  an  eye  through  the  iron  grating 
Had  looked  on  the  marble  coffer  gray  *   * 

Where  a  nation,  ha'f  a  century  younger. 
Laid  the  gem  of  their  pride  in  dust  away. 

All  nations,  and  colors,  and  habits,  and  races, 
Had  made  it  a  spot  of  pilgrim  tryst,  > 


\< 


»  ' 


282       '     ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 

Paying  homage  to  valor,  and  wisdom  and  goodness- 
No  blood  and  no  climate  can  ever  resist. 

But  here  was  a  group  fl*om  the  Isle  of  the  Ocean— 
The  rocky  isle  of  our  fathers'  birth — 

The  isle  whose  drum-beat  circles  and  startles 
The  echoes  of  morning  over  the  earth. 

And  one  was  a  boy,  with  the  hair  of  a  Saxon, 
The  bright  blue  eye  of  the  German  land, 

Who  will  ho'i  some  day,  if  the  fates  are  propitious, 
The  sceptre  of  George  the  Third  in  his  hand. 

Behind  him  were  men  of  the  proudest  title— 

The  feudal  lords  of  English  boast, 
Standing  ever  around  the  royal  scion 

As  the  great  ships  guard  their  native  coast. 

Victoria's  son— high  Albert  Edward —  ; 

He  had  stood  already,  in  year's  so  few, 
On  many  a  spot,  made  famous  in  story — 

On  Naseby,  and  B^met,  and  Waterloo- 

The  spots  where  a  dynasty  tottered  and  trembled. 

Or  a  rebel  baron  in  ruin  fell, 
And  where,  over  the  startled  and  shuddering  Europe, 

Rang  out  the  great  Corsican  commoner's  knell. 

But  never,  I  ween,  on  a  spot  so  pregnant 
With  varying  thought,  stood  the  boy  before  ; 

And  what  must  have  been  the  mingled  color 
That  his  young  reflection  silently  wore  ? 

Before  him  the  dead  lay — helpless,  but  mighty ; 

Around  him  was  stretching  an  endless  chain 
Of  hills,  and  plains,  and  crowded  cities, 

And  rivers  down  laughing  to  the  main.. 

This  golden  land  had  once  been  a  jewel 
That  flashed  and  glittered  in  a  Britain's  crown, 

His  own  great  grandsire  had  ruled  and  lorded 
Wherever  the  visitor's  foot  came  down. 

The  man  that  was  dead,  in  the  century  faded, 
Had  won  a  wreath  for  his  manly  brow, 

That  a  hundred  years  have  budded  and  brightened  ; 
Did  the  royal  boy  remember  how  ? 


THE  PRINCE  OP  WALES  IN  AMERICA. 


283 


PADDY'S  ODE  TO  THE  PRINCE. 


(WRITTEN  IN  NEW  YORK.) 


0  Mighty  Prince !  it's  no  offince, 
Your  worship,  that  I  mane  ye, 

While  I  conflss,  'twas  as  ra-al  bliss, 
A  moment  to  have  sane  ye ! 

That  yoa  should  see  the  likes  o'  me. 
The  while  I  stud  adjacent, 

1  don't  suppose,  although  me  clothca    > 
Was  mighty  clane  and  dacent. 

But  by  my  troth,  and  Bible-oath  I  . 

Wid  all  my  Irish  shyness, 
I've  passed  the  word  wid  many  a  lord 

Much  taller  than  your  Highness  1 

Ah !  well — bedad,  no  doubt  yc  had, 

In  token  of  allagiance, 
As  good  a  cup  as  ye  could  sup, 

Among  thim  black  Caoajans : 

But  wha'-d'ye  think  of  Christian  dhrink, 

Now  tell  me  that,  me  tulip ! 
When  through  a  straw  your  Highness  saw 

The  flavor  of  a  julep? 

And  what  is  more,  we've  got  galore, 
Such  oysters — none  can  bate  'em ; 

Ye'll  bliss  the  day  ye  crossed  the  say, 
When  ye  sit  down  to  ate  'em. 

There's  craythers  rare  and  mighty  quare 

In  Barnum's  great  Muzaum, 
By  land  and  wattier,  and  for  a  qua'ther 

Your  Highness  may  survey  'em. 

Thim  kaythen  chaps,  the  nayger  Japs, 

Wid  all  their  grate  expinses. 
Just  tuk  their  fill,  and  left  a  bill 

At  which  the  paple  winces. 


284  ROYALTY  IN  THE  NEW  WORLD  ;  OR, 

Fernandy  Wud  has  decent  blood, 

And  illigant  morality ; 
And  ye  may  sware  our  mighty  Mayor 

Will  Bhow  his  horse-pitality.  ' 

^  ,    The  soldiers  are  all  at  his  call, 

Wid  captains  to  parade  'em  ;   % 
And  at  the  laste,  ye'U  get  a  taste 
Of  dimraocratic  fraydem! 

But  plase  to  note,  ye'er  not  to  vote — 
'    '  A  privilege,  by  Jabers, 

Ye  could'nt  hope,  were  ye  the  Pope, 
Until  ye've  got  the  papers ! 

Well,  mighty  Prince,  accept  these  hints ; 
\       Most  frayly  I  indite  'em  ; 
'Tis  luck  indade,  if  ye  can  rade 
As  aisy  as  I  can  write  'em !  - 

And  when  the  throne  is  all  ye'r  own 
At  which  ye're  daily  steerin'. 

With  all  the  care  that  ye  can  spare, 
Remember  poor  ould  Erin !        ,:      r 


THE  NEW  YORK  BALL  TO  THE  PRINCE,  OR  THE 
BELLES  HE  DANCED  WITH. 

'Twas  a  grand  display,  was  the  Prince's  ball, 
'    A  pageant  or  fe'te,  or  what  you  may  call 

A  brilliant  corruscation  ; 
Where  ladies  and  lords  of  noble  worth     v 
Enchanted  a  Prince  of  royal  birth, 

By  a  royal  demonstration. 

Like  Queens,  arrayed  in  their  regal  guise, 
They  charmed  the  Prince  with  dazzling  eyes. 

Fair  ladies  of  rank  and  station — 
Till  the  floor  gave  way,  and  down  they  sprawled 
In  a  tableaux  style,  which  the  artists  called 

A  floor-all  decoration. 

At  the  Prince's  feet  like  flowers  they  laid, 
In  the  brightest  bouquet  ever  made, 

For  a  Princes  choice  to  falter — 
Perplexed  to  find,  where  all  wore  rare, 
I  Which  was  the  fairest  of  the  fair 

To  cull  for  a  Queenly  altar. 


»  > 


THE  PRINCE  OP   WALES   IN   AMERICA. 


285 


But  soon  the  floor  was  set  aright, 
And  Peter  Cooper's  face  grew  bright, 

When,  like  the  swell  of  an  organ, 
All  hearts  beat  time  to  the  first  quadrille. 
And  the  Prince  confessed  to  a  joyous  thrill 

As  he  danced  with  Mrs.  Morgan. 

Then  came  the  waltz,  the  Prince's  own — 
And  every  bar  and  brilliant  tone 

Had  music's  sweetest  grace  on : 
But  the  Prince  himself  ne'er  felt  its  charm 
Till  he  slightly  clasped  with  circling  arm, 

That  lovely  girl,  Miss  Mason. 

But  ah !  the  work  went  bravely  on, 
And  meek-eyed  Peace  a  trophy  won 

By  the  magic  art  of  the  dancers  ; 
For  the  daring  Prince's  next  exploit 
Was  to  league  with  Scott's  Camilla  Hoyt. 

And  overcome  the  Lancers  1 

Besides  these  three  he  deigned  to  yield 
His  hand  to  Mrs.  B.  M.  Field, 

Miss  Jay  and  Miss  Van  Buren 
Miss  Russell,  too,  was  given  a  place- 
All  beauties  famous  for  their  grace 

From  Texas  to  Lake  Huron. 

With  Mrs.  Kernochan  he  "  lanced," 
With  Mrs.  Edward  Cooper  danced, 

With  Mrs.  Belmont  capered  ; 
With  fair  Miss  Fish,  in  fairy  rig. 
He  tripped  a  sort  of  royal  jig. 

And  next  Miss  Butler  favored. 


And  thus,  mid  many  hopes  and  fears. 
By  the  brilliant  light  of  the  chandeliers, 

Did  they  gayly  quaff  and  revel ; 
Well  pleased  to  charm  a  royal  Prince, 
The  only  one  from  Old  England  sinct. 

George  Washington  was  a  rebel. 

And  so  the  fleeting  hours  went  by, 

And  watches  stopped — lest  time  should  fly— 

Or  that  they  winding  wanted  ; 
Old  matrons  dozed  and  papas  smiled, 
And  many  a  fair  one  was  beguiled 

As  the  Prince  dancod  on,  undaunted. 


jt  ■■  - 


286  ,,      RorALTY  m  the  new  world;  or, 


'Tis  now  a  dream— the  Prince's  ball, 
Its  vanished  glories,  one  and  all, 

The  scenes  of  the  fairy  tales  ;   ' 
For  Cinderella  herself  was  there, 
And  Barnum  keeps  for  trial  fair, 
The  beautiful  slijper  deposited  there 

By  His  Highness  (he  Prince  of  Wales. 


